Kotor – An Impregnable Bastion
Many cities claim to be impregnable, they have borrowed the moniker “The Gibraltar of the _______”, pretenders they are. Kotor and its mountainous cousin Cetinje make no such claims but the pair may be the closest thing any medieval army faced that would be considered impregnable. The maritime city of Kotor has changed hands many times over the centuries but the once independent city found its partner in Venice, becoming a protectorate. The Venetian Republic invested heavily in the fortifications allowing it to survive several ottoman sieges. Locals will be proud to tell you that, yes, the city has changed hands many times, but it has never been taken by force. Today the sleepy town is a tourism hotspot, the bay hosting many cruise ships.
This post should be read in conjunction with Cetinje and Lovćen National Park to understand Montenegro and its complex history. It will also help you understand the relation between the maritime city of Kotor and the Montenegrin tribes. Additionally, reading about the nearby cities of Budva and Herzeg Novi will help you piece together a more comprehensive picture of Montenegro. It may be a small country but there is a lot to learn!
Table of Contents
A Little Geography
The triangular fort-city is located at the end of a narrow fjord, the deepest such canyon in Europe. Behind the city is a chain of mountains that leads to Lovćen National Park, the mountainous cradle that preserved the Montenegrin independence and protected the rear of Kotor.
To the south you will find the party town of Budva, with its pulsing nightclubs, bars and loud music. To the north is the quieter, family friendly, Herzeg Novi.
A Little History
Kotor, like Budva, has been around for a very long time. The city would not maximize on its importance until the late medieval period when it came under the influence of the Venetian Republic. The prominence of the town lies in its deep, natural port and its position in relation to trading routes on the Adriatic Sea.
Antiquity:
The exact founding date of the town remains unclear. We do know that it predates roman rule and was likely occupied during prehistoric times. The Illyrians were active in the region but the present city was founded by the Romans in 168BC. Its name was Acruvium but remained of minor importance in Roman controlled Dalmatia.
Medieval Period:
The status of the city as an important maritime trading center was established during the medieval ages. During the fall of Rome the city was occupied by the Ostrogoths but they were expelled by Byzantium under the rule of Justinian. He built a fort above the city and improvements continued on the fortifications. The name Kotor is likely derived from the byzantine name of the settlement, Dekatera.
The city would eventually be traded back and forth between the Byzantines and the invading Slavic tribes (both by Serbian Duklja and Bulgaria) until 1185 when Montenegro conquered by the Slovene-Serb people. It is during this time that Kotor began to be used as the city name. Over these years the roman language died and the people were assimilated into the Slavic culture. The Slavic rule was a productive one, the Serb kings granted Kotor a large degree of autonomy and the city rivalled that of Ragusa (Dubrovnik). It was at the time the most important port in Serb territory.
The city became part of Hungary in 1371, then Venice briefly but by 1384 it reverted to the Bosnian-Serb kings. Under the reign of Tvrtko I it became the mint city, producing coinage for the growing Bosnian Kingdom. It was not to last.
After the death Tvarko in 1391, Kotor asked for the Protection of Venice… The Ottomans were at the door.
Venice, Austria and the Napoleonic Wars:
In 1420 the independent republic was absorbed into Albania Veneta, although it maintained some degree of independence. Like nearby Budva most the architecture in the old town dates from this time. The city experienced several Ottoman sieges, a plague and two earthquakes during this time.
In 1797, the Republic of Venice came to an end and the Venetian possessions were split between Austria and the French. Kotor was under the suzerainty of Austria. During the Napoleonic wars, the city was occupied by France, then Austria and Russia before being liberated by Great Britain in 1814. After the war Kotor became a calm Austrian outpost, the name Italicized as Cattaro and left to languish as a backwater. That is until 1914, when Montenegro was engulfed in events greater than itself and Kotor would be at the epicenter of a National struggle for independence.
The Austrian Era sees the creation of an independent Montenegrin homeland in the Mountains above Kotor. The capital of this land is the small city Cetinje, at the time the smallest capital city in Europe. The Kingdom begins to take shape after the battle of Grahovac in 1858 and would develop into a fully formed and internationally recognized kingdom in 1910. With the start of the Balkan wars in 1912 Montenegro launched its greatest expansion, even capturing the Albanian city of Shkoder (Scutari) on the other side of Lake Skadar. Montenegro was not a nation to be trifled with. The important part to take away from this is that Kotor was not yet part of the nascent Montenegrin state, although trouble was brewing for Austria. The borders of this new state were drawn near the present Lovcen mountain, just behind the city Kotor. To learn more about the struggle for Montenegrin independence please read my article on Cetinje and Lovćen National Park.
First World War and the Modern Era:
The First world War would bring about the defeat of Austria, feroucious fighting and the restoration of Kotor to the Montenegrin people. The city was an important base for the Austrian navy and the Bay of Kotor saw fierce battles with the local population. After the war, Montenegro was incorporated into Yugoslavia, a country it would only leave by choice in 2006. This unity was only interrupted during the Second World War, when a brief occupation by both Italians and Germans took place.
Where to Stay
There are many great Air BnB’s or apartment rentals either on the water or in the old town. If you are young you have to stay in the Kotor Old Town Hostel. This is by far one of my favorite hostels in Europe. It is located in an old stone building, directly in the center of the old town. There is the option to opt into group meals along with pub crawls that run every night. As a bonus you can register for tours through 360 Monte directly from the hostel, with pickup at the door. I guaranty that you will have a good experience! The only catch is that it is a youth hostel and they do enforce an age limit.
Things to Do
Kotor has a host of things to do, albeit due to its mountainous geography, it helps if you are able bodied. Be forewarned.
San Giovani Fortress & Ladder of Kotor:
I came into the city from Budva in the early morning and before I had even checked in I had found friends to climb up to the top of San Giovani Fortress, the hilltop fort that overlooks the town. It was conceived in 1440 over the ruins of old Illyrian fortifications. Since then it was continuously expanded on. The fortress takes its name from the church of St. John (Giovani). Now in ruins, you can find it located right behind the fortress (but more on that later). The triangular defense includes a ring of 4.5 km’s of walls to its top. This wall connects the town’s fortifications to the fortress and prevents an enemy from attacking by behind. It is the greatest of Venice’s Stato da Màr (oversea territories) fortifications which is why the complex is now a UNESCO site. The site is 280 meter above the old town, on a steep trail so be prepared to walk.
There are two ways to the top of this fortress, either you take the path leading up from the fortifications (3 euros) or by the Ladder of Kotor. This ladder is actually an old Austro-Hungarian road that once connected Kotor with Cetinje. I took it by accident and my new group and I climbed the 70 switchbacks that lead up the mountain. There were almost no people on this trail in contrast with the first route and you can avoid the 3 euro fee (would have payed anyway, the whole thing was accidental).
I did take the other path on the way back and walked down its 1350 steps. From there, you get a view of the magnificent Lady of Health church and the bay. This is the view you will find on most brochures.
The path will eventually split in two, one branch takes you to Cetinje and the other to the fort. This area also apparently has a house with water and beer as well as a hut with cheese and prosciutto. They were not open when I was there but it was probably due to it being the off season. Anyhow, take a breather…. the view that you are afforded is what is commonly referred to as the triangle of Kotor. If you look down at the white terracotta roofs below you may end up with some vertigo.
For those looking to take the path going to Lovcen, do so after visiting the fort. The views only get better the higher you go.
Take the branch, the one that veers to the right, going towards the fort. Once up the ladder you will be located right behind the San Giovani fortress. Here you will see the abandoned Spiljari village, I was amazed at what I had stumbled on, it is easy to miss if you climb up via the payed way.
Don’t miss the church of St. John, as I walked in a mountain goat came out, startling me. This thousand year old church may be a ruin but it is interesting to see its altar and ruined frescoes. Apparently there is a Rakia (Strong Balkans Liquor) hut here but all I found was farm animals, no Rakia to be found 🙁
Finally my new friends and I were ready to enter the fortress grounds. We followed a gravel path, accessed the fort through a hole in the walls and were soon in the ruins of the castle. The structure is in poor shape and will likely require some remediation but crawling through the ruin is part of the charm.
When you have your mandatory Instagram picture from the top, you can walk down the Kotor steps. This is where you will find the Lady of Health church, possibly the most photographed church in the country.
The path will eventually take you back into the old town. But just before you get there, stop to admire the city roofline.
The Old Town:
The triangular shaped bastion was built as a maze, this was one by design. The winding narrow alleys would confuse an advancing army and make the city easier to defend. For the modern tourist it poses its own hazard. At night when you return to your accommodation, likely quite buzzed like me, it may be difficult to find where you are staying. I remember many times even in broad daylight taking a wrong turn and ending up back at one of the city gates.
The old town has many restaurants and a few bars. There is apparently a club but I don’t remember attending it (although I could be wrong on that count). If you are looking for a grocery store or a corner store to buy beer there are a few of them just outside the city gates. They also have an assortment of Italian comic books, something I found pretty comical when scrolling through them. One of the most popular things to do is to walk the city walls and explore Kampana tower. They have installed a terrace at the top and you can see the moat that separates the town from the mainland.
For a small old town there is quite a bit to see. You can see the Napoleon Theater, one of the few buildings dating from the French occupation as well as a strange museum dedicated to cats (I know random!). If raining I would recommend visiting the maritime museum paying homage to the city’s long seafaring tradition. In addition there are a few squares and churches to see. The first is the impressive Cathedral of Saint Tryphon (Sveti Tripun). Built in 1166, it is one of the most important structures in the old town. It contains the remains of the Saint of the same name, who’s remains were transported here from Constantinople.
There are many other churches to see in the old town but my second favourite is the Church of St. Nicholas. The pretty Serbian orthodox structure is often overlooked by tourist.
Once you are done all this grab a cold Niksicko beer and enjoy the summer weather on a patio. You may not come to somewhere quite this nice for a long time.
Day Trips
As the center for the Montenegrin tourism Kotor is ideally located to head either north, south or even inland if you are willing to brave the steep mountain roads. Tour companies like 360 Monte operate many tours that start from Kotor, pick you up from your accommodation and take you all over the country, of course, solo exploration is possible as well.
Budva
The party capital of the Montenegrin coastline, this city combines all you could ever want. A pretty old town, good beaches and pulsing clubs. It is a small city and can be explored in no time. If you do not find the nightlife in Kotor to be sufficient you can head out there for the party or, if you need some sun, explore the old town and lie on the many beaches in the afternoon. Montenegro is a small nation and many places can be seen as part of a day trip. For more information see this post.
Rafting the Tara River
If you want to check out the deepest canyon in Europe, then head out on the Tara River located in the north of the country. I did this tour with 360 Monte and I found it to be of good value. For more information read here.
Lovćen National Park and Cetinje
The historic headland of the Montenegrin nation is a sight to behold. From this high mountain plateau you can learn much about the development of the Montenegrin nation and its capital Cetinje. For more information read here. This National Park is a must see!
Herzeg Novi
This calm coastal city is the more family friendly version of Budva, but fear not! There is plenty to do and see here, even if it is more sedate. For more information click here.
Kotor Bay
Many private tour operators offer boat tours of the magnificent bay of Kotor. A car will do you just as well if you wish to explore at your own pace. This part of the country offers you the chance to see historic forts guarding the entrance of the bay, hidden submarine bases, churches and historic towns.
My personal highlights included the pretty town of Perast and the roman mosaic ruins at Risan. Another popular sight includes the Lady of Our Rocks Church. This church sits on the middle of an island in the bay of Kotor and has a very interesting history.
North Montenegro
From the beautiful landscape of Durmitor national park to the beer producing town of Nikšić to the ski town of Zabljak or the Ostrog Monastary that was built into the mountains come see why this off the beaten track region of the country is well worth the visit.
Zeta
This historic province includes many wineries, producing some of Montenegro’s finest among the verdant landscape of Lake Skadar. One town in particular Rijeka Crnojevica cannot be outdone for more information click here.
Dubrovnik
With a distance of 77 km’s separating them there is no reason why you should not visit the ancient maritime republic of Ragusa. Click here for more information.
Gallery
If you want to see more of the city here is a gallery of pictures that did not make it into the body of the post.
Spiljari village
San Giovani Fortress
Old Town of Kotor
Kotor in Daytime
Kotor at Night
Conclusion
My recommendation is not to rush through Kotor. People come in on cruises and don’t even see a fraction of that the country has to offer. Although small, use Kotor as a base to visit the rest of the nation. Dubrovnik may get more tourists but this is definitely the best destination. Stay a while, you may end up falling in love.
