Too Square to be Hip

A narcissist's guide to travel and culture

Cetinje and Lovćen National Park – Living in the Clouds

by admin

While most of the Balkans fell prey to Turkish expansionism, one region continued to resist. Its people, the Montenegrins, abandoned the shoreline of the Adriatic sea, an easy target for the Turk to raid and continued their fight from the hills and highlands of the Dinaric Alps. Under the wise reign of Prince Nicholas I Petrović, Montenegro became an independent Kingdom. Educated in Paris and regarded for his martial abilities he greatly improved the life of the average Montenegrin. He is buried in Lovcen National Park in the heartland of Montenegro. He was the reason for my visit to the tiny Balkan nation and one that was well worth my time.

This post should be read in conjunction with my Kotor blog entry.

The remains of the wise king Petar II at Lovcen.

Table of Contents

From Kotor to Lovcen:

This is one hell of a ride! The thrilling road from Kotor takes place via a series of hairpin turns that were part of a 19th century Austro-Hungarian road. From here it takes you up towards the clouds and into a rocky plateau leading to Lovcen Mountain. At the top of the hairpins there is a viewpoint giving a panoramic view of the Bay of Kotor, but unfortunately it was a cloudy day and I could not see much of the bay itself. If you want to see what this view looks like, click on my Kotor Post, where I included a picture of a second visit I made to this same point without the clouds. This large plateau area of Montenegro was virtually inaccessible to invaders and as such became the historic home of the Montenegrin people during their fight against the Ottoman Empire.

A view of the bay from the clouds was thwarted by clouds.

From the viewpoint we continued towards the park through scenic mountain roads until we hit a small restaurant in the small village of Njeguši. This village is at the base of Mount Lovcen and, although small, is the historic birthplace of the Petrović dynasty of kings. The Petrovics would unite the Montenegrin tribes and lead them to glory at first resisting and then reclaiming land from the Ottomans. They secured international recognition of Montenegro as a kingdom and created much of the modern institution. They ruled Montenegro 1696 to 1918, when the country was integrated into Yugoslavia following the First World War. The small town does not have more than 50 people but is host to the most authentic cuisine in all of Montenegro and some of the best folk architecture in the country.

For those who are interested the original Petrovic house can be found. I have included a link here. This article will give you the coordinates of this house.

The Village of Njeguši, on the edge of Lovcen National Park

I was not aware at the time of my visit that the Lovcen area was a culinary destination. This being said, I was pleasantly surprised to find out that it stored and produced Prosciutto (Njeguški pršut) as well as cheese (Njeguški sir). We toured a curing shed to view the production operation and learned much about the famous Montenegrin Prosciutto, some of the best in the world I am assured. After having a cheese and Prosciutto sandwich I am convinced that my Montenegrin host is right. The Italian cured dry ham, called Pršut in Montenegrin, was an importation of the Venetian romance settlers during their stay here. Although the delicacy can be found in other ex-Yugoslav countries such as Croatia and Slovenia, this variety is unique. According to the owner the distinct taste comes from the mixing of the cool, mountainous air, with the salty sea air. This is combined with the smoky taste of beech wood used during the drying process. It takes over a year to cure the Prosciutto! The process involves; salting, pressing to remove liquids, a light smoking and drying by cool mountain breeze.

Prosciutto hams hanging from the ceiling.

Lovcen National Park

Lovcen is the name of both a park and the mountain that gave Montenegro (The Black Mountain) its name. Legend has it that when the Venetians began trading from Kotor, with the Montenegrin people , they had to make it overland to the capital city of Cetinje. They then began to refer to the region as “The Place Over the Black Mountain”.

Care for a picnic?

It should be no surprise that the mountain, at the foot of the birthplace of their most important dynasty of kings, should become such a place of national significance. At this top of this famous mountain lies the tomb of a man whose name belongs in the Valhalla of Slavic warrior kings. He was a man, a scholar, a warrior, a philanthropist and a poet for the ages.

The entrance to the upper walkways.

As we circled our way up the mountain, I was given a brief history of Montenegro. I have since done my own research and will summarize it here for you. The Slavic nations that installed themselves in the Balkans after the fall of Rome eventually turned into kingdoms. Much of the region we now call Montenegro was integrated in the Serbian Kingdom. This large empire was not to last, and soon began to splinter into different regions under different Serbian orthodox rulers. Montenegro started as the Duklja, now better known as Zeta. It changed hands between many dynasties of rulers and its borders expanded and then retracted. Venice took the coastline from these rulers as part of its Province of Albania Veneta (this includes Kotor, or Cattaro in Italian). However, Venice had much larger problems to deal with than the pesky freedom loving Serbs clinging to their independence in the Mountains. As the Byzantine Empire faded into the annals of history, the Ottoman Empire entered the Balkans and quickly became the hegemonic power after it defeated all challengers to its expansionist policy. When the Ottomans first struck, Montenegro was divided. Its structure was highly decentralized, being composed of clans with separate chieftains and was in no position to resist the first onslaught. The lowlands fell without much trouble but as the Montenegrins retreated to the mountains, so did their determination to cling to their nation and faith.

View from the top of Lovcen

The five remaining clans of Montenegro would meet in Cetinje. It is from here they planned their, ever perilous, resistance against the Ottomans. Heavily outnumbered they resisted many attempts to subjugate them, though martial ability and shrewd diplomacy. Luckily the Ottomans were busy elsewhere and could not concentrate the bulk of their armies on subjugating the clans. Furthermore, the Montenegrins were such good warriors that they often took the offensive when needed and raided Turkish outposts inflicting heavy casualties. This showed that the Montenegrins were an effective fighting force even if outnumbered substantially. The Ottomans were fed up with these incursions, so in 1613, they sent 40 000 men to subjugate them. This was bigger than the population off all of Montenegro. Just as before, they dispatched the Ottomans (with only 4000 men!). The Montenegrin may not have been educated or rich, but they were bred for war and made the best warriors in all of Europe.

The Petrovics would come to power as theocratic prince bishops. Over the next few hundred years they would consolidate territory and modernize theocracy into a secular principality. Important rulers from this period include Petar I (a Serbian orthodox saint),  Petar II (one of Montenegro’s great poets) and Danillo (the first secular prince and a great military leader). This period coincides with a renewal of relations between Slavic people, including Russia and Serbia. It is Petar II that is commemorated in Lovcen, he is responsible for the creation of the institutions that made Montenegro a modern European nation. He asked to be buried in a chapel dedicated to his predecessor Petar I at the top of Mt. Lovćen. He was buried in Cetinje in 1851 and moved to Locen in 1855. His remains were removed by the Austrians in 1916, to build a monument to Franz Joseph. The modern structure you see today was not completed till 1971, when the Yugoslav government wanting to build a secular monument destroyed the old Byzantine chapel.

A statue of Petar II

We parked at the base of the complex and walked up the stairs to the top of the mountain via a tunnel. Once up there you can access the mausoleum. Two large statues flank a statue of the sitting King, an eagle spreading his wings over him. Once inside you can visit the tomb of the Petar II. Once you are finished paying your respects, a passageway brings you to the other side of the mausoleum where a pathway brings you to a stone rotunda that gives the viewer a 360 degree view of Lovcen National Park. This is the best view in the country!

Pathway leading away from the mausoleum
A look back at the mausoleum from the circular rotunda

As we departed Lovcen I could see the old capital of Cetinje below this was to be our next destination.

View of the old Royal Capital from Lovcen

Cetinje

As discussed previously the road to the royal capital stretched from Kotor to Cetinger, with a stretch of that road over the Lovcen Mountain. Cetinje, a relatively young, five-hundred year old city lying in a karst field, is the old royal capital. As such it is home to many of the country’s national institutions. The president’s palace (called the Winter Palace) and many embassies are still located here instead of the new capital Podgorica. The current population of the city is about 17 000 people making it an ideal place to walk around for a day.

Tree lined pedestrian street in Cetinje.

The city, named after the Cetina River, was founded by Ivan Crnojević, ruler of Montenegro in 1478, as his old capital Obod fell prey to Ottoman advances. Cetinje as the capital of Zeta had a distinct advantage, located in the highland away from the low lying Lake Skadar it would be easier to defend. He also founded the monastery, one of the most popular attractions in the city today. Under constant threat by either Venice or the Ottomans, the city would not flourish until the Petrovic rulers would establish an independent and internationally recognized Kingdom of Montenegro at the end of the Montenegro-Turkish Wars. Prince Petar II, buried at Lovcen, is most associated with the development of the city. He established his palace (the Billiards house) here.

The Billiard Palace, Petar II’s residence.

This trend would continue under Prince Danillo and King Nicholas I. The latter was the first (and last!) king of Montenegro, his reign is the one most associated with the development city. Nicholas ordered the construction of the Montenegro state house and when the principality was declared a kingdom gained the the attention of much of Europe. The added legitimacy would lead to European leaders building embassies throughout the city.

Nicholas I museum.

Walking along the tree lined pedestrian boulevard Njegoševa you can see much of the architectural heritage of the city. The multi colored buildings were built in foreign styles during the 19th and early 20th centuries. As the newest (and smallest!) European capital, it was able to build its identity by borrowing architecturally from other European cities. Most of Cetinje’s buildings have one thing in common, they all belong to the period following its recognition as a kingdom at the Congress of Berlin in 1878 to the Second World War when it’s development was arrested. At this time, the communist government moved the capital to Titograd, neglecting the development of this historically important gem hence the city fell into stagnation. On the flip side much of the old architecture still remains due to this stagnation.

The independence period has been more kind to the city, tourism is flourishing and buildings are being restored. The old embassies, attractive buildings that were once a hub of activity for diplomats, have mostly been converted to museums and institutions. Montenegro’s restored monarchy, mostly symbolic, has a residence in the city. The city center is now a UNESCO site and slowly Cetinje is regaining its clout.

A public square in Cetinje.

While in Cetinje, there are a few things that you must see. In a square at the entrance of Vladičina park you can see the museum dedicated to King Nicholas I, first King of Montenegro. He was exiled from his country after the formation of Yugoslavia in 1918. His remains have been re-buried at the Ćipur Church not far from the Cetinje Monastery. In the park you have The Billiards Palace (now a museum), the Cetinje Monastery and the ruins of the old Cetinje Monastery. The stone monastery is host to the most important relics in the country including the right hand of St. John the Baptist. It is also where the remains of Petar II were buried before the completion of the Lovcen Mausoleum.

Ćipur Church.

As a royal city Cetinje has been a resting place for many of the Montenegrin monarchy, so it should be no surprise that resting on a hill above the monastery you can find Danillo’s tomb.

Cetinje Monastery

Other sites include visiting the many former embassies, visiting the Blue Palace (once home to members of the royal family), the National Museum of Montenegro, the National Library of Montenegro, the Vlaška church (it has a fence made of captured rifles) and the Printing House of Crnojevići, the oldest such facility in the south Balkans.

For those looking for something more outdoorsy there are many karst caves, such as the Lipa cave, located outside the city.

What Else Should You do in Old Montenegro?

For those seeking more sights associated with old Montenegro you absolutely must make your way to Rijeka Crnojevica. The city briefly served as capital under Ivan Crnojević, an old ruling dynasty of Montenegro. From here you can see much of the Lake Skadar area.

Conclusion:

Setting off from Kotor to Cetinje, I had done a bit of research and I knew what I was getting into. What surprised me was what how authentic and remote the area still is. If you come to Montenegro and actually care about history this is the destination for you!

Balkan Wine & Spirits – 10 Best Regions to Indulge the Vino

by admin

The Balkans region of Europe is often past over by tourist for its better known western cousins. Wine lovers, although sophisticated, often make the same mistakes when purchasing this fine beverage – they skip over anything east or south of Berlin. Balkan wines are some of the best in the world and are still relatively undiscovered. Think about it! Go to your local liquor stone and count the racks of French, Portuguese and Spanish wines. Now look for Eastern European, Caucasus and Balkan varieties of the drink, you will usually find a small rack or none at all. Without further ado here are a few Balkan regions that produce sublime wine and spirits.

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Herzegovina, BiH

Unfortunately, the country of Bosnia & Herzegovina is often shortened simply to Bosnia, ignoring the southernmost reaches of the country, a cultured and multi-ethnic area know as Herzegovina. The triangular shaped piece of land, is known for its regional capital of Mostar and is split between Serbs, Croats and Bosniaks (Muslim Bosnians). It is in the area south of Mostar, between it and the Adriatic Sea, that is best for grape production. Here you will find local grape varieties such as Žilavaka (White) and Blatina (Red).

For real wine aficionados, a visit to the Tvrdoš Serbian Orthodox Monastery not far from Trebinje is an absolute must. Not only is the monastery a stunning piece of history, it hosts wine cellars dating from the 15th century with the product being stored in one-hundred year old oak barrels. This is a great place to try the above mentioned white and red native grape varieties. For the casual drinker, many large wineries can be found around Trebinje so you may want to spend a few days in the region.

The town of Trebinje in Southern Herzegovina

Serbia

One would have no way of guessing that Serbia is one of the emerging wine producers in the Eurozone. It is hard to pinpoint a specific part of Serbia as the country is criss-crossed by vineyards. Serbian wine production all began during the 500 years of Imperial Roman occupation, when irrigation channels were dug, and vines planted into the rich Serb soil, and why not! The Serbian climate is ideal for such a culture. During the 19th century, this region briefly became one of the most important in Europe as a distraught France sought new wines after Burgundy and Bordeaux grapes were ravaged with sickness (phylloxera). The Austro-Hungarian Empire overlords that occupied Serbia at this time were keen to promote the produce from its Serbian dependencies. Unfortunately, the breakup of Yugoslavia decimated Serbia’s wine industry and it is only just now coming back into its own.

Today vineyards can be found in the north, near the old Hungarian city of Subotica as well as throughout the center of the country including near the cities of Novi Sad, Belgrade and Nis.

Istria, Croatia

This large triangular piece of land protruding into the Adriatic, in known for its charming rural character. Truffles aren’t the only delicacy native to this regions. The most Italian region of Croatia sports some serious Italian styled wines and we all know how good those are!

Dalmatia, Croatia

The Roman heart of the Balkans, Dalmatia has always been known for its mild climate and stunning islands. This arid coastal region is best know for its scrumptious whites (although reds and a few rose’s are produced further south). The history of wine production dates back 2500 years, when wine culture was imported by Greek colonists on the islands of Vis, Hvar and Korčula. The region has not looked back since and production has surged on the mainland. Don’t miss out on Dalmatian wine!

Moldavia, Moldova/Romania

Once part of Romania, Moldova, a little known European nation has developed into a wine producing powerhouse. It borders northern Romania, a region sloping down from the Upper Carpathians and was once merged with that part of the country to form a state called Moldavia. This was one of the original precursor states to Romania, becoming part of that country after a merger with Wallachia to the south. Today, both sides of the border are know for their wine productions.

In Central Moldova you will find the Mileștii Mici winery and its famous Wine Cellars, the largest in the word, holding over 2 million bottles. This massive underground complex stretches for over 200km (although only 55 are in use!), where rows of oak barrels hold the prized liquid. Moldova is a country with more grape vines per capita than anywhere in the word and as such you can expect a few local grape varieties, reds are often stored or imported to the cellars where they ferment in optimal temperature and humidity conditions. Yet for an authentic experience you should go with an authentic whites indigenous experience. The country is well regarded for this type of wine and the climate is best for this type of grape to thrive.

Like Moldova, northern Romania is renowned for its white wines, the culture of witch centers around the village of Cotnari (my favorite Romanian white) and the university city of Iasis. The wine producer in Cotnari is known for its wine library (one of the few remaining in Romania), a collection of 1 million bottles. This part of Moldavia was renowned for its wines and in the 19th century, its produce was quite popular in France. The temperatures favor the appearance of botrytis, ‘noble rot’, that helps to make the wine sweet. The indigenous white verities grown here include Frâncușā, Tāmâioasā, Grasā and Feteascā Neagrā.

Lake Skadar, Montenegro

The hills above Lake Skadar’s southern shore offer a pleasant glimpse of the marshy lake itself as well as a culinary delicacy – a fine wine like no other. Centered around the western shore not far from the town of Virpazar and the imposing Besac castle is the cream of the country’s wine industry. Rising from the lake are green hills and cypress groves, waiting to be explored via narrow country roads.

The green hills and mountains where you will find many of the county’s best wineries.

Both the lake and mountainous conditions have allowed Montenegro’s Skadar region to develop heavenly white wines. These are usually paired with platters of culinary delicacies such as with Montenegrin cheese and a unique Prosciutto produced in Lovcen National Park.

The Thracian Valley, Bulgaria/Greece/Turkey

The Thracian Valley, a historic region encompassing a large part of Southern Bulgaria along with parts of Greece and Turkey, is home to what the Greek poet Homer considered to be the best wines in the world! The unique Mavrud and Gamza grape varieties grow here and although Cabarets and Merlots are grown in the northern part of Bulgaria but the south, part of the Thracian Valley is home to dark earthen wines, almost like Pinot Noir. The best place to visit in this part of the country is the small town of Melnik. It is in Melnik that the famous Melnik 55 is produced, Churchill’s favorite wine – and one purported to taste lightly like cigarettes (can confirm that this is true!).

Central Region (Tikveš Valley), North Macedonia

In a country consisting mostly of hills, central Macedonia’s Tikveš Plain offers somewhat of a relief from the harsh terrain. The region is bisected by the Vardar river, an important water course leading to the capital of Skopje, the river held back by a mountain reservoir in the southern end of the plain. This region has offered quality wines since cultivation began during the early 20th century, at one point consisting of two-thirds of Yugoslavia’s wine production. After the fall of the state volume dropped considerably and efforts were made to increase the quality of the wine. Although modern wine production in Tikves may seem like a recent phenom, historic wine production has taken place here as far back as 500B.C, this is in large part due to the geography of the region and the sublime climate. You will find mostly red wines in this part of Macedonia as the climate suits it best (over 80% of Macedonian wines are red). I would recommend a visit to either Stobi Winery, located by a stunning set of roman ruins (and my personal favorite red wine in the Balkans!) and Tikveš Winery.

Alternatively, if you are staying in Ohrid and do not with to make the drive to Tikves you can stop in Bitola, The small plain around the city offers a similar climate and competing wineries have begun to spring up around the southern city!

Ouzo – Lesvos, Greece

The legendary island of Lesvos (yes, that means lesbian island!) is home to a staggering 17 ouzo distilleries, the best known of whitch are centered on the island capital of Mytilini. The national liquor of Greece and Cyprus is best know for its distinctively smooth licorice taste. The potent drink is best paired with food and is similar to the below mentioned Raki, yet is distilled with grains instead of fruits or wine throwaways.

Rakia (or Raki, Rakija), Found Throughout the Balkans

By far the most widespread liquor of the Balkans, Rakia, is a well known hard liquor made of distilled fruit spirits. Although it is possible to buy this in stores, a good authentic Raki will come from rural farms where it is distilled from leftover wine scraps (grapes) or fruit such as plumbs, pears, apricots, apples, cherries, figs and quinces. Much like americium moonshine, the rural Raki will run upwards of 50% alcohol. It is served with meal in most cafe’s and restaurants throughout all Balkan nations, as such, one could say is the official drink of the region. As the region is traditional and rather male dominated, the drinker is expected to hold his alcohol. I remember a visit to the rural town of Gjirokaster and a specific supper where it was particularly difficult to compose myself, even for a pro like me! One can not say that they have experienced the Balkans, unless they have sipped the vile liquid with locals, their sun battered faces staring blankly back at you, daring you to bling (get drunk) first!

12 Great Places to Visit in the Balkans

by admin

What places should you visit in the Balkans? That is if an arbitrary rule limited you to pick only pick one city per country!

In this list I pick (1) one city per Balkan nation to visit. If you are travelling on a tight time schedule and trying to hit nation highlights, this may be helpful, but remember, these countries have a lot more to see than just the locations listed!

Table of Contents

Ohrid, Macedonia

My favourite place in the entire world, Ohrid – a Slavic Jerusalem – is a fascinating city! It is built on the shores of a lake of the same name; one of the most important nature preserves in Europe and the deepest on the continent. The lake is known for its deep blue hue, that sparkles like gold when hit by the suns sharp rays. The craggy coast boasts beautiful marshes and, as I was there in the spring, the large chain of mountains encircling the lake were still partially snow-capped. The city itself stands at the crossroads of the words great empires Ilyrian, Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Bulgarian, Serbian and Turkish to name a few, gifting the town with a rich architectural tradition. This is reflected in its religious architecture namely it byzantine styled churches and monasteries but also its mosques. The city may be small but you will find yourself wandering its narrow streets and alleys for hours marvelling at the beautiful wooden merchant houses and the pristine view of the lake. Today the city is the most popular summer destination for Macedonians who come here in droves. The city of 100 churches is one that only gets better with time!

To read more about the resort town of north Macedonia, click here.

Corfu, Greece

Corfu is the perfect sized island. It is large enough to have plenty to do and space to get away from the other tourists, yet remain a quaint island getaway where all destinations are withing an quick drive of each other. I remember landing in Corfu late at night and leaving my room at the Pink Palace, a famous party hostel, early in the morning to catch the sunrise. It felt as if I had woke up in paradise! The island contains beautiful beaches and towns but also a major Greek center in the city of Corfu. Here you will find some of the most imposing works of the Stato da Màr, a string of Venetian fortifications throughout the Adriatic and the Eastern Mediterranean and a pretty Greek old town. This island was ground zero of the Venetian-Ottoman wars and offered history lovers unparalleled insight on the Adriatic power struggles.

To read more about this island paradise, click here.

Sibiu, Romania

Authentic is the best word to describe this Saxon holdout in Transylvanian. At the time Transylvania was called Siebenbürgen, German for the “The Seven Citadels”, a testament to the importance of this ethnic minority. You will find some of the best preserved of Germanic architecture in the world in the heart of old Hungarian Transylvania.

To read more about this great city, click here.

The spire of Sibiu rises above the Saxon old town.

Belgrade, Serbia

I will be the first to admit that Belgrade is not your typical travel destination. It’s not that the city is ugly, quite the opposite, but it is run down. This ancient city, strategically built at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers, has been spit on by the conquerors of history but the city as well as the Serbian people will offer travellers more than they bargained for. The city is pulsing, no, teaming with life! It is cosmopolitan yet firmly Serbian and the nightlife is incredible. Come discover why this city is one of the hidden gems of Europe.

To read more about this thriving metropolis, click here.

Sarajevo, Bosnia & Herzegovina

Nestled within the emerald hills of Bosnia, this hillside city is simply breathtaking and should be on every travelers bucket list. From the fine metal working of the bazaar to the splendid breweries of the empire, the contrast blends harmoniously into the landscape, a perfect blend of Ottoman and Austrian Architecture. Although the city saw triumph and tragedy in the last century, it has recovered and is fast on becoming one of the most dynamic cities in the Balkans. Come see how the small provincial city where the assassination of Franz Ferdinand took place hosted the Olympic decades later and then fell into civil war.

To read more about this cosmopolitan capital, click here.

Kotor, Montenegro

This triangular shaped fortified old town is seated deep within a fjord, an outstanding natural wonder. The city is host to the San Giovanni fortress, a titan of the Venetian Stato da Màr line of fortifications, and an important bulwark against the advance of the Ottoman Empire. This city offers the backdrop of stunning natural scenery and the history of a well preserved old town. The city is located a few kilometers from the party beach town of Budva and the mountainous Cetinje/Lovcen National Park in the hinterland of Montenegro. Come before this pristine destination is as crowded as Dubrovnik.

To read more about this great old town, click here.

View of the bay from the chapel of Our Lady of Health.

Zadar, Croatia

Really, Zadar? Its not even on the party coast of Split or the tourist mecca of Dubrovnik. Yet Zadar, a city that has seen more tragedy than most, has become one of the most relaxing and even, dare I say it, romantic city in the Balkans. The splendid fortifications may be reduced but the oceanfront boulevard is to die for. Once you make it here you wont ever want to leave!

To read more about this great city, click here.

A view of the Saint Dimitrije church portico and the University of Zadar.

Bled, Slovenia

This small touristic city in the alpine region north of the capital Ljubljana is often thought of as the most scenic place  in the country. This beautiful town has a crystal clear lake, a pretty castle and a church on an island surrounded by the pristine waters of the lake. Sounds nice, does it not?

To read more about this lakeside retreat, click here

Rila, Bulgaria

This beautiful location is located at high altitudes, in the central mountainous plateau of Bulgaria. This monastery is a repository of Bulgarian Culture and will give you an unparalleled insight on the creation of the Bulgarian identity. The complex honours St. Ivan, an orthodox saint that lived as a hermit near this location. The church itself is a masterpiece of craftsmanship and includes beautiful scenes painted on the entirety of its walls.

To read more about the monastery, click here.

Prizren, Kosovo

Although Kosovo’s independence is disputed, I have included it on this list as it has become a popular destinations for those seeking less commercial tourism centers. Prizren, the small nation’s second city, more than makes up for an unfortunate visit to the capital Pristina. It should not passed over for the later, as this scenic destination is the cultural heart of the this landlocked patch of land. The city contains a large cache of Ottoman architecture and is more cosmopolitan than the foreign sounding name would suggest to those unfamiliar with the history of the Balkans.

Istanbul (Constantinople), Turkey

Straddling the Bosporus channel, this mega city is divided between Europe and Asia, the Orient and the Occident. Although the city may not be the modern capital of Turkey, it was the center of two great empires; The Byzantines and the Ottomans. These two were masters of the Balkan peninsula and as such the region was ruled from it. You cannot understand the history of the Balkan nation without first understanding Istanbul, a city going by the name of Constantinople for most of its history. It is truly the city of Roman splendor and eternal glory.

Gjirokaster, Albania

A city that seems to be built directly into the mountain side, the “Stone City”, located in southern Albania, is the greatest example of Ottoman architecture in the Balkans. Large stone homes belonging to the Muslim landed gentry (eg: landowners) and a massive citadel define the town. It is also the birth of two titans of modern Albania, a villain, the communist dictator Enver Hoxha and a hero, the author-dissident Ismail Kadare.

To read more about this great city, click here.

Bonus City

Constanta, Romania

Known for most of its history under the name Tomis, this coastal paradise is a long way removed from its intebellum heyday when the big players of Europe and the royalty of Romania came to gamble and enjoy the beach. Today the principle port of Romania is enjoying a renaissance of epic proportions.

To read more about this great city, click here.

10 Hostels You Need To Book While in the Balkans

by admin

When planning a trip it is difficult to know where to stay, fortunately I have compiled a list of trustworthy hostels that will make you feel at home, even if you are thousands of miles away. Having stayed at all but one of these establishments, I can guarantee that they will be of good quality. Some of the hostels such as the Pink Palace happen to be party hostels but many are just relaxing places to hang out, meet friends and read a book. The list is ranked but pay no heed, I enjoyed all of them.

Table of Contents

1. The Pink Palace, Corfu

The granddaddy of party hostels, if you are looking for a good time, the palace is the place for you. You will be picked up at your arrival point by Pink Bus and brought to the hostel located near the beach town of Agios Gordios.

The hostel offers many amenities such as a hot tub, a 24hr bar, a beach, volleyball court, a restaurant, a night club and much more. The hostel itself is completely painted in Pink and can easily be spotted from the beach. Even the bed-sheets are a bright pink! Meals are communal and take place in the large dining room on site. Activities are organized on several different days or nights of the week, such as the Saturday night toga party, complete with pink bed sheets and plates to break. Other activities include a tour of the island, a booze cruise and four wheeler rentals. On nights where the weather is conducive an exterior patio bar is opened as well.

I am not always keen on party hostels but the Pink Palace is one for the ages. It is the granddaddy of all party hostels, yet still retains much more charm than newer facilities.

For more information on the city of Corfu click here.

The Pink Palace can be seen from the town of Agios Gordios.

2. Sunny Lake Hostel, Ohrid

This is by far the most relaxing hostel I have ever been to and well worth the time spent. The hostel is located uphill in the old town, thus you will be getting a small leg workout going up and down. The multi-story building has a small backyard with some hammocks and a balcony with one of the best views in town. Breakfast is served for free every morning on that balcony and you can usually find travellers hanging out in the common room or the backyard.

Other amenities include a laundry machine, bicycles to rent, a boat ride on the lake and a friendly host.

For more information on the city of Ohrid click here.

View from rooftop of Sunny Lake hostel.

3. Hostel Miran Mostar

The reputation of this hostel rests on the shoulders of the legendary Miran, AKA “The Crazy Bosnian Guy”. You can look him up on google if you would like, he pops up as the first link when you search for him under those terms. The owner and his family are wonderful people and their establishment is close to the train and bus station. The hostel also offers a great tour of Herzegovina for a reasonable price. For more information see the day trips section.

Miran gives the tour himself, he is energetic and entertaining. He is an old soccer star and knows everyone about town. For lunch he will offer to stop at a local restaurant and he will help you order some local food. He participated in the Bosnian War and has many stories and things he would like to teach visitors to his country.

This tour includes an exploration of Mostar’s War Sites, the Ottoman Dervish of Blagaj, the old town of Počitelj and the Kravica Waterfall.

For more information on the city of Mostar click here.

4. Old Town Hostel Kotor

This hostel is located in a perfect setting nestled in the heart of the old town of Kotor. If you are under 40, you have to stay in the Kotor Old Town Hostel. This is by far one of my favourite hostels in Europe. It is located in an old stone building, reminiscent of the Venetian Era of occupation. It is possible to opt into group meals along with a pub crawl that runs every night.

As a bonus, you can register for guided tours through a company called 360 Monte directly from the hostel, with pickup at the door. Tours they host include; the Bay of Kotor, the Lovcen, rafting the Tara River and much more! I am not usually one for tours but these were excellent.

For more information on the city of Kotor click here.

*The only catch is that it is a youth hostel and they do enforce an age limit. Hence why I mentioned under 40 as an age*

Venetian Fortification of Kotor.

5. Stone City Hostel, Gjirokastër

This hostel is located in a beautifully restored building in the old town. Facilities include a large outdoor terrace, modern showers and sturdy beds (much better than the average hostel). Prices are reasonable and there is breakfast served for free every morning. It is a very comfortable place to stay and I would recommend it to anyone visiting the city. The dutch owner offers many hikes and is knowledgeable of the surrounding area.

When I arrived at the hostel, I explained my money situation to the owner. I had my wallet stolen a day earlier and not yet able to pay for my accommodation immediately. I asked him where the nearest Western Union was so I could get my parents to wire me my own money from back home. He took pity on me and checked me in anyway. He told me not to worry about getting my money right away and offered to lend me some Lek until the afternoon when he would be able to take me to the Western Union himself. Then he asked me if I was hungry, famished I answered yes. He made me lunch for free and in the afternoon walked me to the Western Union, located all the way down the hill in the New Town. Point being, I would recommend this hostel to anyone.

For more information on the city of Gjirokaster click here.

Gjirokastër castle.

6. City Walls Hostel, Dubrovnik

I have included this hostel on the recommendation of a friend and is the only hostel on this list that I did not stay at. I had intended to stay here but unfortunately rooms were sold out. The main feature of this funky hostel is that it is built directly into the city walls of Dubrovnik and offers unparalleled views of the Adriatic sea!

For more information on the city of Dubrovnik click here.

View of the Old Town and the City Walls.

7. Freedom Hostel Budva

I strongly recommend staying in this hostel while in Budva. This cozy stone dwelling is located right inside the old town walls. It offers a courtyard that is a great place for social gatherings and beds at a reasonable price. There are plenty of little pubs and eateries in the old town, all within walking distance. As a matter of fact the old town is so small that a group of us were out partying and came across my dad (who was traveling with me at the time). He was walking back from the pub and our rowdy group shouted,he simply had to follow the echoing noise through the old cobblestone streets to locate us. For those looking to stay out late you can easily walk to the clubs located in the new town from the hostel.

For more information on the city of Budva click here.

8. Hostel Mostel Sofia

Located in an old Ottoman caravansary, the equivalent of a medieval travelers inn, Hostel Moster makes for a unique hosteling experience. The hostel is gated off from the main street and the life of the place revolves around a central courtyard, with most of the rooms built around it (other rooms are located in a building across the street). Breakfast takes place in a large common room and the hostel offers day trips to places such as the Rila Monastery, one of the Wonders of Bulgaria!

The hostel is situated directly in the heart of downtown Sofia. It is a ten minute walk from the Serdika metro station and even closer to the extensive Sophia streetcar system.

For more information on the city of Sofia click here.

9. City Break Hostel, Belgrade

City break hostel is a lesser known hostel in comparison to some of the titans I have on this list, but it is a fantastic place to stay. The location is a comfortable walk from most attractions, the host is fantastic and the hostel spotless. Furthermore The Nicholas Tesla museum is around the corner from the hostel, a must visit in Belgrade!

For more information on the city of Belgrade click here.

The Nicola Tesla Museum in Belgrade. A stone throws away from City Break Hostel

10. Trip’en’ Hostel, Tirana

When I first arrived in Tirana it took me a long time to find the hostel. Luckily I found it! This place caters to a more alternative crowd. It has a great little courtyard, with hammocks and lots of social space. You will easily make friends at the hostel bar located on premises. Once of the neatest features is that it serves a tasty local beer that cannot be purchased elsewhere. 

For more information on the city of Tirana click here.

Skanderberg Square.

Bonus: Berat Backpackers, Berat

I stayed in this lovely old stone hostel in the Gorica district of Berat during a particularly cold stretch of April. The hostel is located at the top of the Gorica historic neighborhood, down a narrow cobblestone street and is very picturesque. Facilities at the hostel include beautiful a terrace, which a group of us wrapped in blankets sipped beers at. I remember the beds being particularly comfortable for a hostel. It is a solid choice for any traveler!

For more information on the city of Berat click here.

View of Gorica, with Mangalem in the background.

Bonus: Hairy Lemon, Saranda (Now Closed, 2023)

The Hairy Lemon is an oddity. Located in an apartment complex not far from the ferry terminal it offers a commanding view of the Adriatic. The hostel has its own stretch of beach and is a staple of those traveling to Albania.

For more information on the city of Saranda click here.

View from my hostel in Saranda.

Bonus: EOL 777, Constanta

Located near the beach this hostel was exactly what I needed to relax after a hectic few days in Bucharest, the sprawling capital city of Romania. Although simple, this quiet hostel has everything you need for a weekend getaway, including a stash of games and puzzles if you are partied out!

For more information on the city of Constanta click here.

Podgorica, Skadar, Rijeka and the Rest of the Montenegrin Zeta

by admin

Podgorica, now that’s a capital that nobody has ever heard of!

Probably most people

While staying at a hostel in Bosnia, I had inquired about what places to stay while in Podgorica and my host flat out refused to recommend one saying the city was not worth visiting (his actual words were that “There is nothing to do in Podgorica, take my advice and stop asking me about it.”). This is not a totally fair assessment but one that is commonly accepted as there is some truth to the statement.

Following his advice, I did attempt to avoid Podgorica but ended up travelling through it on my way back from exploring the Lake Skadar area of Montenegro. For all of its faults Podgorica holds 30% of the country population. The once industrial city is now modern, clean and relatively pretty, but unfortunately, rather forgettable. I find that the main appeal of this city its proximity to the attractions around it such as Lake Skadar. 

Note: During Socialist Yugoslav times it was renamed Titograd, in honour of Josip Broz Tito, leader (and president for life) of the Yugoslav State.

Millennium bridge in Podgirica

Table of Contents

Podgorica

The city is located in a flat plain of Lake Skadar called the Zeta Plain. It is a fertile land with a good climate and access to several rivers. The area has been occupied since the stone age, Illyrian tribesmen ruled until the arrival of the Romans who built a settlement called Doclea. This settlement was home to the roman emperor Diocletian. After the fall of the Roman Empire, the invading Serbs created a new settlement called Ribnica. This settlement was captured by the Ottomans in 1474 and remained part of their empire for the next 400 years. They built much of the civic infrastructure along with sturdy fortifications. The latter led to Podgorica becoming a military city, home to an Ottoman garrison. The murder of fifteen citizens by the Ottoman authorities brought on to the Montenegrin-Ottoman War, resulting in the annexation of the city to the newly founded kingdom of Montenegro in 1878. It was the largest city in the kingdom and hosted an active tobacco industry. 

During the First World War, the Podgorica Assembly was held here. In this meeting, the Kingdom of Montenegro was disbanded and it officially became part of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. The kingdom joined the side of the Allies during the Second World War and the city was leveled by the German air force. The damage was so severe that very little of the original cityscape remained. After the war Tito rebuilt Podgorica in modernist style, renaming the city Titograd in his own honor (Yes, you can do these things when you are dictator!). In the socialist period the city was a hub for heavy industrial activity.

Today, there is not much of the original city to see. The period of Montenegrin independence has seen a boom in construction and the city continues to change rapidly. An example of this is the millennium bridge over the Morača River, a fine example of modern architecture. For history lovers there is a small Ottoman old town, although it is quickly decaying.  You will find that not much of importance remains wit the exception of an old stone bridge along with a pretty clock-tower. Other sights of note in the municipal area include the former residence of King Nikola I Petrović and the beautiful Cathedral of the Resurrection of Christ. The cathedral, built in 2013, is built in the old style of orthodox churches. As such it has more charm than many modern churches. Just outside the city you can visit the old roman ruins of Doclea but there is not much signage in English. If staying for a few days, do rent a car so you can visit the outlying regions of the Zeta plain, including Lake Skadar.

Otherwise there is not much to do in town but to enjoy the nightlife, powered by a thriving cafe culture.

The Cathedral of Podgorica.

Lake Skadar

Lake Skadar National Park is of the most interesting natural landscapes in an outlandishly beautiful nation. Not only is it the largest lake in the Balkans by surface area but it plays host to wetlands than are important habitat for birds, bugs, amphibians and assorted aquatic wildlife. The pristine waterway is shared by both Montenegro and Albanian but it is only a protected conservation area on the Montenegrin side of the border. It’s lush marshes have the luxury of a backdrop of impressive green mountains while the stunning shoreline plays host to small islands, wineries, monasteries, historic town and ruined forts. After a visit to Skadar, I found the flat and fertile Zeta plain that Podgorica is built on to be rather uninteresting but, who can blame be, Skadar is not your average lake.

Below I have subdivided the park in a few separate areas of interest.

Lake Skadar in the afternoon sun.

Vraninja

Taking the E80 roadway directly south of Podgorica past the airport you will hit the town of Bistrice. Congratulations you have entered Skadar national park!

Until you hit the island of Vraninja all you will see is green fields. Once you have crossed over there is a small fishing village with a few restaurants to eat fresh lake catch. There are two monasteries that can be reached from here, the first it the Vrajina monastery nearby and the Kom monastery which may require chartering a boat.

Continuing south you will reach a long causeway that is one he most beautiful drives in the country. Here, you can stop at the ruined fort Lesendro at the center of the causeway or stop to eat on the western shore of Lake Skadar.

Lake Skadar as seen from the Vraninja causeway.

Western Shore

As mentioned earlier there are many shoreline restaurants, several are traditional fisherman’s houses made of stone with nice outdoor terraces. For history lovers, stop at Besac Castle just south of the causeway, it may be small but boasts a great view of the marshy lakeshore. From the roadway you will be afforded exquisite mountain views of the lake as well as access to an infinite number of wineries located on the hillsides. Montenegrin wines are as good as any Italian or French products and are much less pricey.

Rijeka Crnojevica

From the causeway you can continue north up rocky mountainous roads that overlook the lake. Eventually you will come to the Rijeka Crnojevica river. Located on its shores is a town of the same name. It is a city of Old Montenegro that briefly served as capital of the nation under the ruler Ivan Crnojević before he was forced to move his capital to the highlands of Cetinje.

Rijeka Crnojevica river.

The town occupies a position at the very northern point of the lake. In this area the lake narrows into a collection of small lily pad covered basins fed by mountain streams. The meandering Rijeka River is one of these streams and is considered to me an area of outstanding natural beauty due to the pointy mountains that surround it. The town is located on an area of this river where it is wide enough to offer access to one of the above mentioned basins.

View from a restaurant in Rijeka Crnojevica

Just outside of the small cluster of houses that composes the town, I stopped for lunch at a local restaurant. Here I had had some fresh lake fish, along with a local white wine on a patio overlooking overlooking the river.

Afterwards I went into town to charter a boat. Down by the water you can see one of the most important monuments in Montenegro, the Rijeka Crnojevića bridge. This stone bridge was built in 1853 by Prince Danillo of Montenegro to replace the previous bridge built by Petar II. It connects the medieval fortress town of Obod on the other side of the river to the town. Obod is an important cultural site in the country as it is where Ivan Crnojević established his first printing press, the oldest in the south Balkans.

The Rijeka Crnojevica Bridge.

Near the bridge you can find several small vessels waiting on tourists. The boat I chartered went up the river and eventually stopped so I could have a swim. The water is surprisingly warm here, even in May, and as long as you stay away from the lilipads you will be ok!

When you are back from your swim, just enjoy the beauty of this town, not much can compare to it.

Conclusion

Although Podgorica does not appear as a major tourist site in many guidebooks, you can choose to use this city as a base to explore Lake Skadar. It may not be the most interesting place but after exploring one of the most beautiful natural areas of Europe you may want to come back to a city with a little nightlife. Alternatively you can carry on west to Budva where the real party starts. 

Kotor – An Impregnable Bastion

by admin

Many cities claim to be impregnable, they have borrowed the moniker “The Gibraltar of the _______”, pretenders they are. Kotor and its mountainous cousin Cetinje make no such claims but the pair may be the closest thing any medieval army faced that would be considered impregnable. The maritime city of Kotor has changed hands many times over the centuries but the once independent city found its partner in Venice, becoming a protectorate. The Venetian Republic invested heavily in the fortifications allowing it to survive several ottoman sieges. Locals will be proud to tell you that, yes, the city has changed hands many times, but it has never been taken by force. Today the sleepy town is a tourism hotspot, the bay hosting many cruise ships. 

This post should be read in conjunction with Cetinje and Lovćen National Park to understand Montenegro and its complex history. It will also help you understand the relation between the maritime city of Kotor and the Montenegrin tribes. Additionally, reading about the nearby cities of Budva and Herzeg Novi will help you piece together a more comprehensive picture of Montenegro. It may be a small country but there is a lot to learn!

A view of the Bay of Kotor.

Table of Contents

A Little Geography

The triangular fort-city is located at the end of a narrow fjord, the deepest such canyon in Europe. Behind the city is a chain of mountains that leads to Lovćen National Park, the mountainous cradle that preserved the Montenegrin independence and protected the rear of Kotor. 

To the south you will find the party town of Budva, with its pulsing nightclubs, bars and loud music. To the north is the quieter, family friendly, Herzeg Novi.

A view of the triangular fortifications.

A Little History

Kotor, like Budva, has been around for a very long time. The city would not maximize on its importance until the late medieval period when it came under the influence of the Venetian Republic. The prominence of the town lies in its deep, natural port and its position in relation to trading routes on the Adriatic Sea.

Antiquity:

The exact founding date of the town remains unclear. We do know that it predates roman rule and was likely occupied during prehistoric times. The Illyrians were active in the region but the present city was founded by the Romans in 168BC. Its name was Acruvium but remained of minor importance in Roman controlled Dalmatia.

A view of the bay of Kotor.

Medieval Period:

The status of the city as an important maritime trading center was established during the medieval ages. During the fall of Rome the city was occupied by the Ostrogoths but they were expelled by Byzantium under the rule of Justinian. He built a fort above the city and improvements continued on the fortifications. The name Kotor is likely derived from the byzantine name of the settlement, Dekatera.

The city would eventually be traded back and forth between the Byzantines and the invading Slavic tribes (both by Serbian Duklja and Bulgaria) until 1185 when Montenegro conquered by the Slovene-Serb people. It is during this time that Kotor began to be used as the city name. Over these years the roman language died and the people were assimilated into the Slavic culture. The Slavic rule was a productive one, the Serb kings granted Kotor a large degree of autonomy and the city rivalled that of Ragusa (Dubrovnik). It was at the time the most important port in Serb territory.

The city became part of Hungary in 1371, then Venice briefly but by 1384 it reverted to the Bosnian-Serb kings. Under the reign of Tvrtko I it became the mint city, producing coinage for the growing Bosnian Kingdom. It was not to last.

After the death Tvarko in 1391, Kotor asked for the Protection of Venice… The Ottomans were at the door.

Venetian Fortification of Kotor.

Venice, Austria and the Napoleonic Wars:

In 1420 the independent republic was absorbed into Albania Veneta, although it maintained some degree of independence. Like nearby Budva most the architecture in the old town dates from this time. The city experienced several Ottoman sieges, a plague and two earthquakes during this time.

In 1797, the Republic of Venice came to an end and the Venetian possessions were split between Austria and the French. Kotor was under the suzerainty of Austria. During the Napoleonic wars, the city was occupied by France, then Austria and Russia before being liberated by Great Britain in 1814. After the war Kotor became a calm Austrian outpost, the name Italicized as Cattaro and left to languish as a backwater. That is until 1914, when Montenegro was engulfed in events greater than itself and Kotor would be at the epicenter of a National struggle for independence.

The old town of Kotor.

The Austrian Era sees the creation of an independent Montenegrin homeland in the Mountains above Kotor. The capital of this land is the small city Cetinje, at the time the smallest capital city in Europe. The Kingdom begins to take shape after the battle of Grahovac in 1858 and would develop into a fully formed and internationally recognized kingdom in 1910. With the start of the Balkan wars in 1912 Montenegro launched its greatest expansion, even capturing the Albanian city of Shkoder (Scutari) on the other side of Lake Skadar. Montenegro was not a nation to be trifled with. The important part to take away from this is that Kotor was not yet part of the nascent Montenegrin state, although trouble was brewing for Austria. The borders of this new state were drawn near the present Lovcen mountain, just behind the city Kotor. To learn more about the struggle for Montenegrin independence please read my article on Cetinje and Lovćen National Park. 

San Giovani Fortress

First World War and the Modern Era:

The First world War would bring about the defeat of Austria, feroucious fighting and the restoration of Kotor to the Montenegrin people. The city was an important base for the Austrian navy and the Bay of Kotor saw fierce battles with the local population. After the war, Montenegro was incorporated into Yugoslavia, a country it would only leave by choice in 2006. This unity was only interrupted during the Second World War, when a brief occupation by both Italians and Germans took place.

Modern pleasure craft in a marina.

Where to Stay

There are many great Air BnB’s or apartment rentals either on the water or in the old town. If you are young you have to stay in the Kotor Old Town Hostel. This is by far one of my favorite hostels in Europe. It is located in an old stone building, directly in the center of the old town. There is the option to opt into group meals along with pub crawls that run every night. As a bonus you can register for tours through 360 Monte directly from the hostel, with pickup at the door. I guaranty that you will have a good experience! The only catch is that it is a youth hostel and they do enforce an age limit.

Things to Do

Kotor has a host of things to do, albeit due to its mountainous geography, it helps if you are able bodied. Be forewarned.

San Giovani Fortress & Ladder of Kotor:

I came into the city from Budva in the early morning and before I had even checked in I had found friends to climb up to the top of San Giovani Fortress, the hilltop fort that overlooks the town. It was conceived in 1440 over the ruins of old Illyrian fortifications. Since then it was continuously expanded on. The fortress takes its name from the church of St. John (Giovani). Now in ruins, you can find it located right behind the fortress (but more on that later). The triangular defense includes a ring of 4.5 km’s of walls to its top. This wall connects the town’s fortifications to the fortress and prevents an enemy from attacking by behind. It is the greatest of Venice’s Stato da Màr (oversea territories) fortifications which is why the complex is now a UNESCO site. The site is 280 meter above the old town, on a steep trail so be prepared to walk.

View at of the dilapidated buildings at the San Giovani Fortress.

There are two ways to the top of this fortress, either you take the path leading up from the fortifications  (3 euros) or by the Ladder of Kotor. This ladder is actually an old Austro-Hungarian road that once connected Kotor with Cetinje. I took it by accident and my new group and I climbed the 70 switchbacks that lead up the mountain. There were almost no people on this trail in contrast with the first route and you can avoid  the 3 euro fee (would have payed anyway, the whole thing was accidental).

The portal on the side of this building leads to the San Giovani Fortress from the old town. You can also access it from the ladder of Kotor.

I did take the other path on the way back and walked down its 1350 steps. From there, you get a view of the magnificent Lady of Health church and the bay. This is the view you will find on most brochures.

The Ladder of Kotor and the fortress wall going up the mountain.

The path will eventually split in two, one branch takes you to Cetinje and the other to the fort. This area also apparently has a house with water and beer as well as a hut with cheese and prosciutto. They were not open when I was there but it was probably due to it being the off season. Anyhow, take a breather…. the view that you are afforded is what is commonly referred to as the triangle of Kotor. If you look down at the white terracotta roofs below you may end up with some vertigo.

For those looking to take the path going to Lovcen, do so after visiting the fort. The views only get better the higher you go.

The Triagle of Kotor.

Take the branch, the one that veers to the right, going towards the fort. Once up the ladder you will be located right behind the San Giovani fortress. Here you will see the abandoned Spiljari village, I was amazed at what I had stumbled on, it is easy to miss if you climb up via the payed way.

Don’t miss the church of St. John, as I walked in a mountain goat came out, startling me. This thousand year old church may be a ruin but it is interesting to see its altar and ruined frescoes. Apparently there is a Rakia (Strong Balkans Liquor) hut here but all I found was farm animals, no Rakia to be found 🙁

The Church of St. John.
Ruins of Spiljari village

Finally my new friends and I were ready to enter the fortress grounds. We followed a gravel path, accessed the fort through a hole in the walls and were soon in the ruins of the castle. The structure is in poor shape and will likely require some remediation but crawling through the ruin is part of the charm.

When you have your mandatory Instagram picture from the top, you can walk down the Kotor steps. This is where you will find the Lady of Health church, possibly the most photographed church in the country. 

View of the bay from the chapel of Our Lady of Health (or Our Lady of Rest).

The path will eventually take you back into the old town. But just before you get there, stop to admire the city roofline.

The Old Town:

The triangular shaped bastion was built as a maze, this was one by design. The winding narrow alleys would confuse an advancing army and make the city easier to defend. For the modern tourist it poses its own hazard. At night when you return to your accommodation, likely quite buzzed like me, it may be difficult to find where you are staying. I remember many times even in broad daylight taking a wrong turn and ending up back at one of the city gates.

One of the Kotor city gates
Typical Venetian construction in the Old Town of Kotor.

The old town has many restaurants and a few bars. There is apparently a club but I don’t remember attending it (although I could be wrong on that count). If you are looking for a grocery store or a corner store to buy beer there are a few of them just outside the city gates. They also have an assortment of Italian comic books, something I found pretty comical when scrolling through them. One of the most popular things to do is to walk the city walls and explore Kampana tower. They have installed a terrace at the top and you can see the moat that separates the town from the mainland.

For a small old town there is quite a bit to see. You can see the Napoleon Theater, one of the few buildings dating from the French occupation as well as a strange museum dedicated to cats (I know random!). If raining I would recommend visiting the maritime museum paying homage to the city’s long seafaring tradition. In addition there are a few squares and churches to see. The first is the impressive Cathedral of Saint Tryphon (Sveti Tripun). Built in 1166, it is one of the most important structures in the old town. It contains the remains of the Saint of the same name, who’s remains were transported here from Constantinople.

There are many other churches to see in the old town but my second favourite is the Church of St. Nicholas. The pretty Serbian orthodox structure is often overlooked by tourist.

Cathedral of Saint Tryphon
The Church of St. Nicholas

Once you are done all this grab a cold Niksicko beer and enjoy the summer weather on a patio. You may not come to somewhere quite this nice for a long time.

Day Trips

As the center for the Montenegrin tourism Kotor is ideally located to head either north, south or even inland if you are willing to brave the steep mountain roads. Tour companies like 360 Monte operate many tours that start from Kotor, pick you up from your accommodation and take you all over the country, of course, solo exploration is possible as well. 

Budva

The party capital of the Montenegrin coastline, this city combines all you could ever want. A pretty old town, good beaches and pulsing clubs. It is a small city and can be explored in no time. If you do not find the nightlife in Kotor to be sufficient you can head out there for the party or, if you need some sun, explore the old town and lie on the many beaches in the afternoon. Montenegro is a small nation and many places can be seen as part of a day trip. For more information see this post. 

Rafting the Tara River

If you want to check out the deepest canyon in Europe, then head out on the Tara River located in the north of the country. I did this tour with 360 Monte and I found it to be of good value. For more information read here.

Lovćen National Park and Cetinje

The historic headland of the Montenegrin nation is a sight to behold. From this high mountain plateau you can learn much about the development of the Montenegrin nation and its capital Cetinje.  For more information read here. This National Park is a must see!

Herzeg Novi

This calm coastal city is the more family friendly version of Budva, but fear not! There is plenty to do and see here, even if it is more sedate. For more information click here.

Kotor Bay

Many private tour operators offer boat tours of the magnificent bay of Kotor. A car will do you just as well if you wish to explore at your own pace. This part of the country offers you the chance to see historic forts guarding the entrance of the bay, hidden submarine bases, churches and historic towns.

My personal highlights included the pretty town of Perast and the roman mosaic ruins at Risan. Another popular sight includes the Lady of Our Rocks Church. This church sits on the middle of an island in the bay of Kotor and has a very interesting history.

North Montenegro

From the beautiful landscape of Durmitor national park to the beer producing town of Nikšić to the ski town of Zabljak or the Ostrog Monastary that was built into the mountains come see why this off the beaten track region of the country is well worth the visit.

Zeta

This historic province includes many wineries, producing some of Montenegro’s finest among the verdant landscape of Lake Skadar. One town in particular Rijeka Crnojevica cannot be outdone for more information click here.

Dubrovnik

With a distance of 77 km’s separating them there is no reason why you should not visit the ancient maritime republic of Ragusa. Click here for more information.

The Lady of Rocks church as seen from Perast

If you want to see more of the city here is a gallery of pictures that did not make it into the body of the post.

Spiljari village

San Giovani Fortress

Old Town of Kotor

Kotor in Daytime

Kotor at Night

Conclusion

My recommendation is not to rush through Kotor. People come in on cruises and don’t even see a fraction of that the country has to offer. Although small, use Kotor as a base to visit the rest of the nation. Dubrovnik may get more tourists but this is definitely the best destination. Stay a while, you may end up falling in love.

The Triangle of Kotor.

Budva, Bar, Ulcinj & the Montenegrin Coast

by admin

This blog post covers the coastal road from Budva to Ulcinj, near the Albanian border. This section of coastline is absolutely spectacular, combining historic old towns, jagged cliffs and winding roads. It is well worth renting a car and stopping off along the way.

Although the journey is only 65 kilometers in length, the single lane coastal road is winding and takes a long time to navigate. That’s okay, there is no rush! There are plenty of good beaches, lookout points, forts and old religious structures to stop in on along the way. Take some time, relax and when you are ready get back on the road.

For other section of the Montenegrin coast please consult the following posts:

View of the coastline from Budva

Table of Contents

The Journey

The map below illustrates the journey from Budva to Ulcinj. The following stops were made along the way:

  • Budva – 0 km
  • Sveti Stefan – 10 km
  • Petrovac – 18 km
  • Bar/Stari Bar – 53 km
  • Ulcinj – 65 km

Budva (0 km)

You will start your journey in Budva on the party coastline of the Adriatic Sea. This is the most visited town in Montenegro. Located on a small patch of land between the Dinaric Alps and the Adriatic, Budva is located a half hour bus ride to Kotor, the historic port of Montenegro. To the south lies Bar, the commercial shipping hub. If the pulsing club music and wild nightlife doesn’t draw you in maybe the gorgeous old town will.

The old town beach in Budva.

A Brief History:

One of the oldest settlements on the Adriatic Sea, archeological evidence points to a founding in 500BC. Legend has it that Cadmus [Kadmos], the legendary founder of the ancient city of Thebes in Boeotia (Greece), established this settlement after his exile from Thebes. Evidence indicates the possibility of an earlier Illyrian settlement prior to the arrival of the Greeks.

In the second century B.C it became part of the Roman Empire. During the partition of the empire into two pieces, Eastern and Western. Budva would be located on the border between both giving the town some degree of importance. During the Byzantine period (Eastern Roman Empire), the city was populated by Slavic tribes fleeing south, it would then become an autonomous Serbian vassal of the Byzantine state called Duklja. The region revolted several times and even succeeded in having periods of autonomy.  Eventually Dukja was incorporated in the Serbian Empire.

The Venetian Era city gates of Budva.

In 1420 the Venetians took over the administration of the city, incorporating it in their province of Albania Veneta. This period is seen as an important one for the city’s urban development. The Ottoman Empire was expanding quickly into the Balkans and Venice was doing it’s best to stem the tide by building fortifications throughout the region. During this time, the imposing sea walls were constructed along with the land fortifications. The rule of Venice also saw the erection of many civilian structures in the older part of the city as such the majority of the Old Town (as seen today) dates from this period. Venice fell to Austria in 1797 and the city became part of the Habsburg Empire (Austria). This marks the beginning of an unstable period in history where the city changed hands many times. At first it fell to Montenegrin Forces in 1806, then to France in 1807, returning back to Montenegro in 1813 and finally being re-integrated into the Austro-Hungarian Empire in 1814. Although the coastline of Montenegro had been subjugated, the proud Montenegrin people continued to resist in the highlands around Cetinje as they always have. The city would not be ruled by Slavs again until the end of First World War when it was liberated by Serbian troops and incorporated into Yugoslavia.

In 1941, during the Second World War, the city was invaded by Mussolini and his Fascist Italian State but by 1944 the tide of the war had changed. Montenegro was taken by the partisans and became a socialist republic of Yugoslavia. The country was hit by a devastating earthquake in 1979 and part of the Old Town had to be rebuilt. In 2006, when along with the rest of Montenegro, it became part of an independent country. As part of this new country it became the leading center of tourism. The resort remains popular with other Slavs and it receives the benefit of a strong contingent of Russian and Serb tourists.

View of the church of the Holy Trinity with the spire of the St. John’s Church extending beyond the treeline.

Things to do:

Firstly, you should explore the Old Town. Located on a rocky peninsular outcropping, with a large defensive sea wall, this small compact city would look menacing to an invader. Enter the town from the Old City gate (north), and wander down Njegoševa Street, the main thoroughfare. The old town is quite small and can be seen fairly quickly. This being said Old Budva is beautiful and will offer a great respite to a weary backpacker.

While in the Old Town, do make the time to visit St. John’s Church (renamed St. Ivan’s). Built in the 15th century, it features a distinctive bell tower, added in 1867. Nearby you can see a pretty orthodox shrine called the Holy Trinity Church. It may be small but it sports an ornate interior. Other churches worth taking a look at are those of St-Sava and Santa Maria. In the center of the Old Town you can find the ruins of a old Roman villa and to its west you can find the old citadel. You should take the time to walk around its massive stone walls, this stronghold protected the city from maritime and land threats alike and are quite impressive.

View of the St-Sava and Santa Maria churches, located near the citadel.

When you leave the Old Town, head to the old town beach. Although crowded at peak times, you won’t find many beaches in such close proximity to ancient stone walls. Additionally, you will find a beach bar. If you continue on this rocky section of coastline you will see a boardwalk that will take you to the famous Budva ballet dancer statue as well as an additional beach. This beach is slightly less crowded. On the south side of the city just outside the town walls, you can find the marina. It has great seafood restaurants and offers boat rides to nearby Sveti Nikola island. Sitting in the Bay of Budva, the large island features a Captain Morgan branded bar, beaches and wild deer.

The New Town is located just outside the Old Town and contains the party haunts of the city, trouble being just a few blocks away. The buildings are modern construction with nothing of note. Casinos and clubs line the streets along with some fast food joints. While the old town is crowded during the day it mostly empties out at night, when the action moves to the new town. When returning back to old town after a night of partying, one can admire the tasteful up-lighting that has been used to turn the sleepy old town walls into a glowing gem.

As for accommodation in Budva, I stayed at a Freedom Hostel Budva and would not recommend anywhere else. This cozy stone dwelling is located right inside the old town walls. It offers a courtyard that is a great place for social gatherings and beds at a reasonable price. There are plenty of little pubs and eateries in the Old Town, all within walking distance. As a matter of fact, the old town is so small that a group of us were out partying and came across my dad (who was traveling with me at the time). He was walking back from a pub and our rowdy continually group shouted him name which bounced around the Old City walls until he had no choice but to come join us.

The up-lighting in the Old Town.

Sveti Stefan (10 km)

Leave Budva by way of the winding E80 roadway up the mountain range just south of the town. From here you will have a panoramic view of the bay. We stopped for breakfast at a restaurant located on a high point overlooking Sveti Stefan. One of the most iconic sights in Montenegro, it consists of a cozy stone Old Town on an island connected by a thin man-made sandbar. The property has recently been privatized, turned into a villa and is no longer accessible to non-paying guests. This being said you can still walk the beach and wonder what it would be like to stay the night inside its walls.

A Brief History

This island city belonged to the ferociously independent Paštrovići clan of Montenegrins. In 1423, fearful of Turkish attacks, it became a Venetian protectorate. Their fears were justified and the Turks soon came to call. In 1539 while the Turkish fleet was besieging Kotor, Turkish ships were moored in Jaz (Budva) and these were raided by the townspeople. Here, within those hulls they found enough bounty to build the town fortifications. They were severely punished for their audacity when the Ottomans returned during the Fourth Ottoman–Venetian War. The town was razed to the ground and would be rebuilt by the Venetians after much pleading from the townspeople. Again a settlement of importance, it then became a heaven for piracy.

During the year of rule by the Yugoslav Kingdom it became a royal hideout for the Serbian Karađorđević family. Yet by the 1950’s the population had dropped from 400 to a mere 20 people.The communist government breathed new life by moving the remaining townspeople and rebranding the island into a hotel and casino. One that would hoist such luminaries as Orson Wells, Kirk Douglas, Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor, Sophia Loren, Princess Margaret and Ingemar Stenmark.

As of 2009, a 30 year lease was granted to a new ownership group called Aman resorts on condition that they revitalize the property. This has been completed and the property has won many prestigious awards in the hospitality sector.

Things to do:

Apart from viewing the pretty island and lounging around the beach, this corner of Montenegro offers mountaintop monasteries and churches such as Praskvica, St Sava, Rustovo as well as a few others. When leaving Sveti Stefan, admire the view of the shapely mountains. This chain of mountains in between the magnificent Lake Skadar and the Adriatic Sea is one of the most stunning in the Balkans. This is especially prominent when approaching the town of Petrovac. This popular beach town, named after the Serb king Peter I, has a great beach and a stunning chapel built on a rocky island. 

A view of the mountainous coastline with the Petrovac chapel in the background.

Bar (53 km):

This important industrial sea port used to go by the name of Antivari due to its position on the other side of the Adriatic from the city of Bari in Italy. It is the terminus for the Bar to Belgrade railroad, a project started in 1952 that fell into disrepair and is not being reconstructed. Most of the city was destroyed in the Second World War, and an earthquake further devastated the region in 1979. As such the character of the town is mostly modern.

Stari Bar Fortress from afar.

A Brief History

The city comes from humble beginnings as a Roman castle. It was originally built in the mountains, unlike the modern new town built by the sea. Like Budva, it became part of the Serb state of Duklja before passing from the Byzantines, Serbs, Hungarians, Venetians (Albania Veneta) and finally the Ottomans who held it until 1878. It was then captured by Montenegro after a seven week siege. Most of the old town was destroyed, the victors renamed the city and eventually incorporated it into Yugoslavia.

The city was shelled by the Austrian navy during the First World War, they blockaded Montenegro from Kotor to prevent the Allies from using its ports. During the Second World War the city saw an uprising against their Italian occupiers, as well as the murder of much of the towns Albanian population by Communist partisans.

The 1979 earthquake destroyed Stari Bar’s aqueduct. Stari Bar, the medieval old town was then abandoned for a few years until services were restored. This spurred massive growth in the new town, located in the lowlands on the Adriatic Sea.

A small chapel with the fortress in the background.

Things to do:

You can start your exploration, much like I did, in the new town of Bar.  You can also skip it, if you want to head to Stari Bar right away, there is not much to do here. 

When you make it to the waterfront in Bar, you will be greeted by a palm lined seaport promenade. This promenade offers a view of a huge container port. I was pretty sick with a flu when I arrived so I didn’t enjoy any of the beaches or the restaurants/bars. Sights include the former royal residence, built by king Nikola I of Montenegro for his daughter. She would go on to wed king Peter of Serbia. Another sight just outside the new town is the world’s oldest Olive tree, with an estimated age of 2000 years.

The most impressive sight in Bar surely is Stari Bar (Old Town). It is located up in the hills overlooking the Adriatic. As you approach though a confusing mess of roads, you will see the decaying walls surrounding the remains of an old clock tower and a church with a large bastion at the top. Firstly, you will have to walk through the cobblestone Old Town, where a few of the villagers have returned. The complex is large and will take you a few hours to explore. There are many exposed foundations and as you get higher up you can see the large towers and walls that albeit damaged, still look imposing. There are some signposts indicating what these buildings once were and a few of the structures have been restored, offering additional insight on the settlement. The best vantage point is the castle at the top of the complex. Not to miss is the ancient stone aqueduct that once fed water into the town.

Ulcinj (65 km):

As you drive further south you will start to notice different cultural patterns. The driving goes from hectic, to Albanian hectic. Albanians are notorious for their aggressive driving, something I was familiar with due to my prior visit to their country. The southern region of Montenpegro has been traditionally associated with Montenegro’s Albanian minority and still to this day is mostly Albanian. Ulcinj, founded in the fifth century BC is one of the oldest settlements in the Adriatic. Due to its isolated location it still retains much of its rustic charm. I did not see many foreign tourists in this part of the country but there was a horde of Albanians pouring in from the south. As we drove into town though the main road down towards the beach we got stuck in an infernal traffic jam, chaos ensued as cars pulled in and out from every direction without regard for with for pedestrians. Needless to say we parked further away, on the Jadran peninsula. One of two peninsulas that forms the bay of Ulcinj. From the dirt parking lot we walked down into town. From the here we were greeted by a sublime view of the town and its fortifications.

The Citadel city of Ulcinj from the Jadran peninsula.

A Brief History

The site is believed to have been occupied since the Bronze Age where Illyrian tribes were the prime inhabitants. The city was founded by settlers from Colchis (Present day Georgia) on a rocky promontory. The ethnic composition of the inhabitants was possibly Illyrian due to the presence of Cyclopean walls, a Mycenaean wall building technique where stones were fit together without the use of mortar for the joints. The city was known as a pirate haven, one of the leading ports for piracy in the Mediterranean region.

During the Third Illyrian War (168BC), the city known as Olcinium broke rank with Illyria and joined Rome. When the empire split in two parts, it became part of the Byzantine Empire (Eastern Rome), with the inhabitants converting to Orthodox Christianity. Like many of the other cities on the Montenegrin Coastline, it fell to the Serbs. During this era, the Old Town as we know it was constructed. In 1405 the Venetians took over as part of their Albana Veneta Province but it fell to the Barbary pirates, and was incorporated into the Ottoman empire in 1571. The pirates never left and continued their reign of terror from the town, piracy was again in full swing. This is also the city where controversial Jewish preacher Sabbatai Zevi was exiled by the Turks.

In 1878, the city became part of the Kingdom of Montenegro, when it was captured from the Ottoman Turks. From there on the city fell into a long decline, only being stopped by the development of its tourism industry, it has not looked back.

The old town of Ulcinj.

Things to do:

As mentioned earlier, if you are looking for parking, there is a large dirt parking lot at the Jadran peninsula. From here it is easy to walk down to the beach and eventually to the 2000-year-old citadel. The beach is beautiful, albeit a bit outdated with a few strange old men sunbathing. When you have had your share of sunbathing, walk up the citadel steps and prepare to be blown away by the scale of the town. There is a small history museum in this section of the city and many small bars. Although the city is small just enjoy your time relaxing here. The surrounding area is gorgeous. On the south side of the Jadran there are many resorts with private beaches. It is worth taking a look at if you have the time.

Another view of the citadel.

Conclusion

With my health fading and my sickness increasing, I never made it over the border to northern Albania, something I would have to keep for a future trip. I had done much of southern Montenegro but Shkodër (Scutari) in northern Albania remains on my list of places to visit. Budva was amazing with its clear water, parties and sun but the rest of the coast south of here is still extraordinarily tourist free and well worth the visit.

The famous ballerina statue at Budva.

Destinations

by admin

Embedded in this page is a location based map of my blog posts and below it an archive of my posts by country. I will continue to update it as I release new material. If using the “By Location” tool, you can click on the marker to open to corresponding post in a new tab. Scrolling over it will bring up a description of the location.

By Location:

By Region:

Africa

North Africa

Egypt (Cairo, Giza, Alexandria, Abu Simbel, Aswan, Luxor, Edfu, Kom Ombo, Theban Necropolis-Valley of the Kings)

Morocco (Marrakesh, Essaouira, El Jadida, Meknes, Volubilis, Moulay Idriss, Salé, Rabat, Casablanca)

 

Asia

East-Asia

China (Xi’an, Emperor Qin Shi Huang’s Mausoleum (Terracotta Army), Shanghai, Beijing, Mutian Valley (Mutianyu-Great Wall), Hong Kong, Tian Tan Buddha)

Western Asia / Middle East

Israel (Jerusalem)

Jordan (Amman, Ajloun, Kufranja Dam, Little Petra (Siq al-Barid), Beidha, Machaerus, the Dead Sea, Mt. Nebo, Madaba, Jerash, Wadi Musa, Petra, Wadi Rum, Al-Karak, Montréal Castle (Shobak)…)

 

Europe

 

Balkans:

Albania (Tirana, Mt. Dajti National Park, Berat, Gjirokastër, Saranda, Butrint)

Bosnia and Herzegovina (Sarajevo, Travnik, Jajce, Konjic, Mostar, Gnojnice, Blagaj, Kravica, Počitelj, Trebinje)

Bulgaria (Sofia, Rila, Plovdiv)

Croatia (Dubrovnik, Split, Trogir, Šibenik, Zadar, Nin, Plitvice, Zagreb)

Greece (Agios Gordio, Corfu)

Macedonia (Ohrid, Struga, Sveti Naum, Bitola, Skopje)

Montenegro (Kotor, Podgorica, Budva, Sveti Stefan, Petrovac, Bar, Ulcinj, Lake Skadar National Park, Rijeka Crnojevica, Cetinje, Lovćen National Park, Njeguši, Herceg Novi)

Romania (Timișoara, Deva, Hunedoara, Sibiu, Saschiz, Mediaș, Biertan, Sighișoara, Târgu Mureș, Rupea, Cluj Napoca, Turda, Brașov, Bran, Râșnov, Bucharest, Sinaia, Poenari, Vidraru Dam, Curtea de Argeș, Constanța)

Serbia (Belgrade, Zemun, Petrovaradin, Novi Sad)

Slovenia (Ljubljana, Bled)

Baltic Nations

Estonia (Tallinn, Valga, Tartu, Viljandi)

Latvia (Riga, Salaspils, Rundāle Palace, Jūrmala, Sigulda (Bobsled & Town), Gauja National Park/Turaida, Valka)

Lithuania (Vilnius, Kaunas, Šiauliai/Hill of the Crosses, Trakai)

Central Europe

Austria (Vienna, Graz, Krems, Durnstein, Melk, Salzburg)

Czech Republic (Karlštejn, České Budějovice, Kutná Hora, Pilsen, Český Krumlov, Terezín, Karlovy Vary, Prague, Hloubětín, Brno, Tábor, Břeclav)

Hungary (Budapest, Esztergom, Eger)

Germany (Dresden, Moritzburg, Königstein, Bastei, Rathen, Berchtesgaden, Meissen)

Poland (Kraków, Wieliczka, Auschwitz-Birkinau, Gdansk, Nowy Gdansk, Sopot, Malbork (Marienburg), Warsaw, Zakopane, Morskie Oko, Wrocław)

Slovakia (Bratislava, Liptovský Hrádok, Bardejov, Zborov, Košice, Prešov, Zvolen, Banská Štiavnica, Svätý Anton, , Orava, Slovenská Ľupča, Levoča, Devín, Trnava, Spiš (Spišský Hrhov, Spišská Kapitula, Spišské Podhradie, Spiš Castle, Žehra, Hodkovce) Nitra, St. Michael’s Church, Trenčín, Nové Mesto, Beckov Caslte, Čičmany, Čachtice Castle (Csejte), Žilina, Vlkolínec, Bojnice, Černová, Ružomberok, Martin, Banská Bystrica)

Nordic Countries

Finland (Helsinki)

Southern Europe

Malta (Comino, Victoria (Rabat), Mgarr, Valletta, St. Julian’s, Mdina, Ħaġar Qim, Tal-Ħamrija, Marsaxlokk)

Spain (Cádiz, Jerez de la Frontera, Sevilla)

Portugal (Guimaraes, Lagos, Porto, Coimbra, Sintra, Tomar, Lisbon)

Italy (Disarrono, Milan)

Western Europe

France (St-Denis, Rouen, Caen, Courseulles-sur-Mer, …)

United Kingdom (Brighton, Chester, Blackpool, Manchester, Liverpool Bristol, Bath….)

North America

North America (Canada, USA, Mexico)

Canada (By Province)

Quebec (Mont-Tremblant, St. Jovite (Old Tremblant), Sherbrooke, Compton (Louis St. Laurent National Historic Site), Lennoxville, Magog, Mt. Orford National Park, Stanstead, Crystal Lake, Harold F Baldwin Park (Mont Pinacle), Coaticook, Ayer’s Cliff, North Hatley, St. Benoit-du-Lac, Austin, Sainte-Catherine-de-Hatley, Jacques-Cartier National Park, Montmorency, Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie, Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré, Parc Régional du Mont Morissette, Les Éboulements, Baie-Saint-Paul, La Malbaie, Val-Jalbert, Métabetchouan, Chicoutimi, La Baie, Jonquières, Grosse-Île, Berthier-sur-Mer, Fjord-du-Saguenay Park, Montmagny, La Pointe-de-Saint-Vallier, Mansonville, Owl’s Head)

Ontario (Upper Canada Village, St Raphael’s Church, Williamstown, South Lancaster, Decew Falls, Parry Sound, Depot Harbour, Killbear Provincial Park, Goderich, Point Clark, Kinkardine, Southampton, Creemore, Nottawasaga Bluffs, Wasaga Beach, Coteau-du-Lac, Bancroft, Kinmount, Bon Echo, Penetanguishene, Midland, Port McNicoll, Uxbridge, Thomas Foster Memorial, Aurora, Newmarket Canal Ruins (Holland Marsh), Newmarket, Sharon Temple, Blue Mountains, Osler Castle Ruins, Collingwood, Thornbury, Fort Willow, McCrae Lake Conservation Area, Big Chute, Shanty Bay, Rigaud, Hawk Lakes (Log Chute), Chalk River, Deep River, Oiseau Rock, Barrie, Orillia, Old Baldy, Owen Sound, Inglis Falls, Meaford, Irish Lookout, Calabogie (Eagles Nest), Franktown (Beckwith), Manotick, Rock Dunder Nature Preserve, Rideau Canal Lock #35 (The Narrows), Rideau Locks #39-42 (Jones Falls/ Whispering Dam), Lyndhurst, Carleton Place, Almonte, Auld Kirk Cemetery, Mill of Kintail Conservation Area, Merrickville, Prescott, Battle of the Windmill National Historic Site, Iroquois, Blue Church, Renfrew, Foley Mountain, Chaffey’s Lock, Newboro, Westport, Gananoque, Brockville, Glenora, Lake on the Mountain, Bath, Picton, Sandbanks Provincial Parks, Wellington, Smiths Falls, Perth, Mattawa, New Liskeard, Triangle Hill, Temagami, North Bay, Duchesnay Falls, Scarborough, Haileybury, Devil’s Rock, Cobalt, L’Orignal, Carillon, Hawkesbury, Kirkland Lake, Earlton, Swastika, Mer Bleue Bog, Pinhey’s Point, Coldwater, Limehouse Conservation Area, Belfountain Conservation Area, Cheltenham Badlands Conservation Area, Rattlesnake Point, Mount Nemo, Guelf, Elora, Fergus, Sainte-Marie Among the Hurons / Martyrs’ Shrine, Balaclava, St. Andrews West)

Alberta (Lake Minnewanka, Canmore, West Wind Pass (Windtower), Two Jack Lake, Banff National Park (Lake Louise, Moraine Lake, Banff) Algonquin Park (Barron Canyon, High Falls), Kicking Horse Pass,

British Columbia (Yoho National Park (Field, Natural Bridge, Emerald Lake, Takakkaw Falls, Yoho Valley))

United States of America (By State)

Louisiana (New Orleans)

California (San Francisco, Golden Gate National Park, Sausalito, Muir Woods, Stinson Beach)

Missouri (St. Louis)

New York (Rochester, Seneca Falls, Willard, Ticonderoga, Philadelphia, Manayunk, Sleepy Hollow, Tarrytown, Saratoga, Lake George, Bolton Landing, Crown Point, Port Henry, Westport, Ausable Point, Keeseville, Ausable Chasm, Plattsburg, Adirondacks (Lake Placid, Saranac Lake, Tupper Lake, Long Lake, St. Regis Falls, Sunday Rock, High Falls Gorge, Cascade Mountain, Mount Marcy, the Great Range, Indian Head, Ausable Lakes, Rainbow Falls, Mount Gothics), Ogdensburg, High Falls (Chateaugay))

Rhode Island (Newport, Providence, Jamestown, Narragansett)

Vermont (Montpelier, Burlington)

Pennsylvania (Coplay, Jim Thorpe, Bethlehem, Nazareth, Allentown, Bellefonte, Boalsburg, State College)

Caribbean

Central America

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