Žilina – Northern Slovakia’s Underrated Industrial Gem
Slovakia’s industrial queen, the northern city of Žilina has experienced a remarkable reinvention in recent years. Industry has not abandoned it, quite the contrary, but the city has modernized with the times to highlights its remarkable historical core. With reinvention has come a degree of success, something that Žilina deeply deserves. I did not expect much of the city upon my visit, if anything it was an afterthought on my way to Orava Castle, Zakopane and the Tatras Mountains, but I can surely say that the the city far surpassed my expectations.
Geography
Located on the Váh river, not far from the Malá Fatra mountains to the east, the city occupies a position that made it a prime target for industry. On the river you will find two Hydro power dams, not far from the city. It is also built at a point where the Váh meets the Kysuca, hence it is built at a confluence point. Upstream of the city you will find that the Váh narrows into a beautiful gorge.
The city is located on the south bank of the Váh.
A Brief History
Although inhabited since the Neolithic Age, the city of Žilina itself came into being during the Medieval ages. As such, this section will focus on the history of the city from the 14th to the 21st century. It should be noted that the Slovak people’s settlement of the region predates that of the arrival of the Magyars, but both peoples and have long standing ties to the land dating from late in the 9th century.
Kingdom of Hungary
Founded sometime around the turn of the 14th century, when Great Moravia (ancient Slovakia) was ruled by the Kingdom of Hungary, Žilina had a late start. Yet the city grew rapidly. Not only did it appears in records as a town as early as 1312, it was even granted the status of a Free Royal in 1321. This helped the city expand in importance, and at that it did. A uniquely interesting event took place in the town in 1381 when the King of Hungary Louis I issued a Privilegium pro Slavis. This degree made the city’s Slav equal to the Germans by making half of the seats in the city council open to Slavs. Slavs in this case refers to the Slovaks, who were seldom granted privileges within Hungary.
The city was torched in 1431 by the Czech Hussites, a proto-protestant sect in rebellion against the crown of Hungary.
Austrian Empire
Now under the Austrian Crown due to the defeat of the Hungarian Empire to the Ottomans during the 16th century, and the absorption of previous Hungarian territories into the territory of Austria. The city shook off its small town blues in the 17th century, when it transformed itself into a center of industry. A process that took longer in the Slovak lands then the Czech ones, due to the reluctance of the Hungarian gentry to pay taxes to Empress Maria Theresa. She instead decided to invest in Bohemia and Moravia after the loss of Silesia to Prussia. The counter reformation in this era also paved the way for the construction of many Baroque structures as the Catholic church sought to fight back against the rise of the Protestant sects.
The arrival of the railways in the 19th century made the city the de-facto industrial city in this part of Slovakia, if not one of the most prominent ones in the country. The city would begin to fill with factories.
Czechoslovakia and the World Wars
After the First World War the city was incorporated into the Czechoslovak state. Slovak nationalism, and Czechoslovakism, was strongest in the northern parts of the country especially in rural and remote areas. In fact, Žilina was one of the the first municipalities to sign the Martin Declaration on the 30 October 1918. Better known of the Declaration of the Slovak Nation it was a call to independence from the Kingdom of Hungary, then part of the Austro-Hungarian state.
Second World War and the Modern Era
In 1938, the Munich Agreement forced the Czechoslovak state into submission and made Slovakia a puppet state of Nazi Germany. Under their opportunistic leader Jozef Tiso, they mercilessly deported and murdered the country’s Jews during the Holocaust, including in Žilina.
After the Second World War, the city was re-incorporated into the Czechoslovak state, now a satellite of Moscow. The cold war would set in and forcibly industrialize much of country. During this time many Slovaks moved to the city. It is now the fourth largest in the Slovak state. It remains industrial but has diversified its economy into what could be argued to be a pleasant place to live.
What to do in Žilina
Žilina’s best attractions, with the exception of Budatín Castle, are clustered around the old town or its periphery. This similarly applies to restaurants with the exception of the Beervana, just west of the old town ring road or the EPIKA coffee shop in a park to the east.
Cathedral of the Holy Trinity and Andrej Hlinka Square
Located right outside of the immediate vicinity of the old town, at a lower elevation, is Andrej Hlinka Square. This massive public space is the largest in the city and is home to many of the city’s most stately buildings, such as former banks, art galeries and the Žilina Town Theatre. If you follow the square to the street parallel to the church, only a few hundred meters, heading north-east you will come to the railway station.
Note: Just north of the square you will find the Mirage Shopping Center, just in case you need to buy a pair of socks or sneakers.
Heading north towards the river you will find a leafy patch with a statue of the man, he who the square is named after. Andrej Hlinka was a priest and leader of the populist party in Slovakia during Austro-Hungarian rule in the 20th century. A strong proponent of independence and an influential priest, his supporters were repressed and then shot by gendarmes at his church by authorities in nearby Černová. This event helped galvanize Slovaks for independence. Although, there were some negative aspects to his nativist instincts (his party would morph into something vile during the Second World War), he is still in many ways a positive figure in Slovak history. He is perhaps controversial but he lived in a time where the Hungarian policy of Magyarization was threatening to end the Slovak people as an ethnic group.
On the backside of the church facing the square, you will find a series of fountains as well as beautiful statue of Sts Cyril and Methodius. These byzantine monks helped codify old Slavonic and helped pave the way for Great Moravia (the ancestor to Slovakia) and the recognition of the Slavs.
The Church itself is beautifully lit up at night. It is called the Cathedral of the Holy Trinity! Conceived in 1400 it is built on the site of the former Žilina castle. The castle is gone but Burian’s Tower reminds us that of what once stood here, making the church appear as if it had two distinct towers, one of them being off center rather then the single once at its center. This arangement will surely catch your eye the fist time you see the church. It should be noted that the church burned down once in the 17th century and twice in the 19th necessitating several reconstruction or renovations, the latest one dating from 1942.
Mariánské Náměstí (Mariánské Square) and the Old Town
Just west of the cathedral you will find a circular cluster of buildings centered around a square, the Mariánské Náměstí. This tightly packed cluster is the medieval old town.
This square is the beating heart of the city and is typically the liveliest. Here you will find a majority of bars and restaurants. At the center of it you will find the Statue of the Immaculate Virgin Mary.
Along the north-western quadrant of the square, you will find its prettiest buildings along with the town fountain as well as the medieval well.
Another remarkable monument is that of the Church of the Conversion of St Paul. It was known in the 19th century as the Orphanage, and has recently been restored to its original colours and condition.
Budatín Castle
Built at the confluence of the Váh and the Kysuca, this castle is built on the north side of the Váh, away from the city. The distinctive white colored building with a red roof, functioned as a tool house for vessels navigating the river. It was conceived as a royal holding in the 13th century before passing to the powerful magnate Matthew III Csák. He turned it into a residence and re-enforced its fortifications building several towers.
Over the course of the 16th century it received a renaissance styled makeover, and again it was modified into its present baroque condition during the 17th century. Although damaged during the revolutions of 1848, the castle remained intact and in noble hands until 1945 when it was confiscated by the Soviets.
Today, the castle serves a museum, and one that is worthwhile if you have the time to rummage though it, while the lands around it are a park that allows you to enjoy views of the confluence. It is a beautiful place to explore on a warm day.
Day Trips
There are plenty of easy day trips from the city, mostly clustering around outdoor activity, here are but a few of them.
Lietava Castle
Located south of the city, a hike up to this building makes for a nice afternoon.
Starhrad and the Váh Valley
Following the river east, the hills begin to crowd the Váh crated a deep castle filled gorge. It is absolutely beautiful!
Malá Fatra Mountains
Home of the folk hero bandit Juraj Jánošík, the remote Malá Fatra Mountains are a place of national myth and legend. Slovakia’s “Robin Hood” figure is well known to those on the Polish border as well as those that are part of the older generation in the Czech Republic.
Conclusion
Despite the general lack of awareness of the existence of Žilina of as a tourist destination, the city seems to care little. Instead it has built itself up to be a pleasant place to live, work and visit – without the fanfare. Hopefully, this dedication and care pays off and the tourists start to recognize the city as a great base camp for the nearby mountains, and an attraction worth visiting in its own right.
