Zagreb – The Forward Thinking Capital of Croatia
My first introduction to the Croatian capital was acquired through the medium of film, rather than the typical tourism pictures found in city guides. It was a James Bond picture, “From Russia with Love”, to be precise. In the movie, Bond’s train departing from Istanbul briefly stops in a grim cold war Zagreb where it is intended that he meet a colleague, a fellow spy called Nash, that will help sneak him back into the west. Unaware that Nash has been killed and replaced by a SPECTER agent Bond meets with the agent and one of the best sequences in the series ensues. Although the game of cat and mouse takes place at the station (and with a particularly violent action sequence on the train itself), the image of a grim Iron Curtain city was imprinted on my psyche. That being said, modern Zagreb is nothing of the sort. The city is a bustling hub with mostly happy people and a city center composed of clean medieval streets and glass towers. The cold war era of Zagreb is mostly reflected in bland suburban apartment blocks but even then, there is enough greenery that Zagreb never feels like it belongs in a 1960’s Cold War movie. One could even say that downtown Zagreb sports a colourful look, compliments of its central European heritage!
Table of Contents
Geography
For those new to Croatia, Zagreb is not to be confused by its coastal cousin of Zadar. The capital of Croatia sits at the base of a green mountain called Medvednica, and today the mountain retreat serves as a leafy retreat for the city when the temperature strikes hot.
The medieval city center is composed of two major areas; Kaptol and Gradec. The former is the lower city built around the cathedral whereas Gradec was the fortified town built on a hill above. A stream runs between these two areas of the city. Today suburbs have grown the boundaries of the city in the south, east and western directions.
Although the development of Zagreb took place at the start of the High Middle Ages, the city grew quickly due to its geographic position at the top of the Balkans. The city lies between the Austrian heartland and the Ottoman Capital of Constantinople. At the time of the enlightenment Croatia was a loyal part of the Austrian empire and as such was a beneficiary of the advantages that being part of a great empire held. The city was an essential transit point for caravans and later for rail traffic. An iteration of the Orient Express took passengers from Paris, though Zagreb down towards Constantinople with stops in other Balkans capitals such as Belgrade and Sofia.
History
Ancient History
Not far from where Zagreb stands today was a roman settlement called Andautonia, now called Šćitarjevo. The settlement would have lasted three centuries, from 1st to the 3rd century A.D, before it’s destruction by invading barbarian tribes.
Medieval Ages
The history of Zagreb truly begins in 1094 when the king of Hungary Ladislaus ordered the construction of a settlement at this location. He was returning home to Hungary from a successful campaign in which he subjugated the neighbouring Kingdom of Croatia. The fortress of Gradec was completed in order to cement his hold on this part of his Croatian holdings.
In 1242 both Kaptol and Gradec were subject to a Tatar (Mongol) siege while they gave refuge to the Hungarian King. The grateful ruler bestowed on the city the title of “Free Royal Town” and as such the city was now gifted with a degree of autonomy and its own judicial system. These developments allowed the city to grow more rapidly than its surrounding peers. In the 15th century, thick walls were built to protect the city from the Turks, who had taken most of the Croatian territories. Of course being surrounded by a foreign enemy did hurt the development of the city. Surprisingly, the settlement was not besieged and would enjoy a mostly quiet peace until the Austrian Era.
Austro-Hungarian Era
Two important events would change the face of Zadar during the 16th century. Firstly the cities of Gradec and Kaptol would merge to create Zagreb, this merged city was declared the capital of what little was left of the Kingdom of Croatia (the Ottomans occupied most of the country). Secondly with the defeat of Hungary at the Battle of Mohacs in 1526, the Croatian Parliament convened and asked the Austrian Emperor to rule over them. In exchange the Croats wanted protection from Ottoman attacks. In this period of time, the development of the city would stall until the Ottomans were thrown back deeper within the Balkans. A series of devastating fires reduced the city’s housing stock and its population fell sharply. The government even moved to nearby Varaždin for a period of time.
With both cities merged, the land between the cities of Kaptol and Gradec (former fairgrounds) was filled in with housing and the stream that divided them was paved over. But it was during the 19th and 20th centuries that the dynamic city that we know today would take stride. The Ottomans threat was long gone and the city was growing quickly, a cog in the transportation network of a great empire. With a renewed wealth, the Croatian national revival began to flourish. The railway came in 1862 and the city became an industrial center.
In 1880 a massive earthquake levelled large parts of the city and many prominent buildings such as the cathedral had to be reconstructed.
World Wars and Modern Era
The city was largely left out of the First World War and upon the end of that war it became part of Yugoslavia. During the 1920’s the city population expanded by over 70%. The Second World War was less kind to the city. Yugoslavia joined the side of the Allies and was quickly crushed by Hitler. He installed a Fascist government that proved to be unpopular with residents who threw their support in with Tito and his partisans.
After the war the city was re-integrated as the second city of Yugoslavia after Belgrade. It largely escaped the destruction of the Croat War of Independence (1991-1995), as it was far from the front lines but did sustain a few rocket hits. Today the city continues to grow rapidly.
What to do in Zagreb?
My experience in Zadar was atypical of my usual experiences as a tourist. I stayed in a hostel in a suburban area with a big backyard with a fire pit instead of downtown. I would ride into town taking the tram and at night I would do “Tram Flips” with a middle aged Canadian from Montreal that I had met at the hostel. The action was performed while heavily intoxicated on our way to the old town bars and involved holding the support rails on a tram so you can lift yourself up and do a back-flip. Stupid… I know, but it was fun.
Kaptol
Start your trip to Zadar with a visit to Ban Jelačić Square, located at the entrance of the old town it is one of the most important public places in the city. It consists of a statue of Croatian general and politician Josip Jelačić on horseback surrounded by beautiful 19th century buildings. To the south of the square, adjoining it, is Illica. This is the main street of Zagreb with much of the downtown shopping taking place here. On this street you will find the Zagreb 360, a popular observation tower. Just north of the square you have a large public farmers market called Tržnica Dolac.
No trip to Zagreb is complete without a visit to the cathedral. Curiously there are fortifications built around the cathedral. These were built to defend against the Ottomans. After the 1880 earthquake the church had to be reconstructed. The architect was an Austrian man named Hermann Bollé, a man who would leave his two greatest marks in Zagreb, the cathedral and the nearby Mirogoj cemetery. In front of the cathedral is a picturesque square.
The real heart of Kaptol is the area just west of the marketplace between the hills of Kaptol and Gradec where the stream once stood. This crowded main street area is where most the terraces and bars of Zagreb are located.
Gradec
This hilltop citadel was once the privileged part of the city, competing with nearby Kaptol for status. Here you can find some of the city’s best attractions. To enter the district, you can head up a long ramp. It leads to the medieval gate to the city. Inside this gate you find a small shrine to the Virgin Mary, an original location for such a monument. Other options to access the Gradec include a tunnel that was used as a bomb shelter in 1943 and a funicular.
At the center of the district you will find St. Mark’s Church, built in the 13th century the church square was the center of medieval life in Gradec. The church is renowned for its rooftop town hall mosaics. In St. Mark’s square you will also find other prominent buildings such as the town hall
While in the district there are two museums you should check out. The first is the Croatian History Museum – housed in a handsome building and the second is the Museum of Broken Relationships housed in an old baroque palace. The later is one of the oddest, yet most satisfying displays that I have encountered in Europe. In concept the museum assembled a collection of items from ended relationships, these items are attached to the stories of their use. Some of the stories are tragic and people can be seen crying in the museum. In practice… I found it to be hilarious, many of the stories are very funny and have been tastefully assembled to make the reader entertained by things, that in lesser hands, may seem mundane. I came not expecting much and would dare call this one of my favorites museums in Europe.
Medvednica (The Mountain)
From the city center you can ride a bus that will take you to the base of the Medvednica. From that bus you can stop at the Mirogoj cemetery or proceed uphill directly to the base of the mountain. This Hermann Bollé designed building is one of the most beautiful cemeteries I’ve ever stepped in. The main building dates from 1876 and inscribed on the portico is the saying “To the King of Ages Whom Everything Lives”. The style is apparently Neo-renaissance but I’ve never seen anything quite like it – pure splendor and unique at that.
The cemetery is located in a wooded area and vines grow on the cemetery buildings. When you approach from afar you are confronted with a large masonry wall, with turrets every so often as if it were a medieval rampart wall. You enter through the main buildings, with its large dome and obelisk at the front of the property. Inside you will find beautiful alcoves, the pride of the cemetery.
The cemetery is home to a multitude of tombs belonging to important Croats, a national cemetery of sorts. Those famous people are buried in the alcoves built into the cemetery wall, along with a few important figures of the Austrian Empire. One such name is Hermann Bollé himself.
On the grounds you will see many sculptures, it can even be argued that the complex houses some of the best in Croatia. The cemetery was owned by the city rather than a specific religious institution and as such people of all faiths, or even of no faith, are buried here. As I prepared to leave I could hear a choir signing and so I approached the provenance of the hymn. I arrived at the grave of Franjo Tuđman, the controversial founder of Croatia. Here in this Austrian conception lay the founder of the Republic of Croatia, a country that had waited a long time for its freedom. It was marvellous! I had come into the cemetery during a rainstorm and during this time the sky’s had cleared to revel pure blue skies, perfect weather for a walk.
If you wish to proceed to exploring Mt. Medvednica after you are done with the commentary, you can stop at Medvedgrad. This fort was built after the Tatar (Mongol) siege of the city to better protect it. A tour of the small castle allows for a view of the Capital city below it.
Rest of the City
South of the old town you can find one of the best public spaces in Croatia, the lawn in front of the national theater. You can view this part of the city from Gradec, but it is best explored on foot. The majority of this area was built up in the 19th and 20th centuries and as such you will see much of the popular architectural styles of the period reflected in the buildings.
The theater dates from 1895 and is built in Baroque revival style. Since it is painted yellow it stands out and is one of the more distinctive buildings in the city. The lawn is well manicured and has many flowers. Just to the south of this building you have the Croat state archives and the botanical gardens
Another renowned yellow painted building to check out is the art pavilion, although diminutive compared to the theater, it is a fine example of 19th century architecture.
Conclusion
Although much younger than most of Croatia’s cities, Zagreb has an invigorating charm about it. This is a city where things are happening and young people fill the outdoor terraces and bars. The city is home to Croatia’s high tech sector, many of its universities and government departments and as such the population is fairly young and hip and if you go out in this city you will have a blast.
