Zadar – A Glittering Adriatic Gem of Old
I arrived in Zara, a proud maritime port that now goes by the name Zadar, to a blinding sunshine that made the Adriatic sea glitter. I could but register an endless sea of blue for my eyes to feast on. When entering the city by way of the mainland I was l be greeted by a sturdy, yet elegant, stone gateway crowned with the Lion of St Mark, the symbol of Imperial Venice. Off to the side of the gate, you will notice a small bay with boats moored inside of it. This is one of the few remaining sections of the original moat but it now functions as a marina. From this small glimpse at the medieval fortifications, one could tell that this was once an impregnable bastion. Once you step inside the gate and into the city you will never want to leave. A breeze blows gently through the city, the tree leaves rustle and you can see the flickering glimmer of the Adriatic from the elegant boulevards. You will be captivated, that ethereal charm that don’t quite understand has drawn you in and you have succumbed to a city that, like you, has known loss and destruction. Yet it still stands proud, for all to see.
Table of Contents
Geography
Zadar is the historic second city of Dalmatia. Built on the northern Adriatic it faces a group of islands called the Zadar Archipelago. The city itself stands on a peninsula separated from the mainland by a deep moat and a small strait, that became the Zadar Harbour, a safe space from the frantic Adriatic storms.
A Brief History
Antiquity
Zadar has been occupied since prehistoric times, but it first comes to the attention of the Roman Empire during Illyrian rule. The Illyrian tribe that occupied this part of the Dalmatian coast are the Liburnians and they called the city of Zadar, Jader. An advanced people, they had established cities and urban centers along this part of the coastline where they come into violent contact with Greek Settlers on the Croatian islands. The Romans invaded Illyria during the Illyrian Wars but the Liburnians stayed out of the wars, and as such, retained much of their independence. This all changed when Liburnia was dragged into the roman civil war between Julius Caesar and Pompey in 49BC. It was split in its support for the two generals and upon his victory Caesar made Liburnia a Roman colony, establishing a more direct form of roman rule. Although less important than its Dalmatian cousin Salona (Split), the city nevertheless expanded economically and many civic structures such as an aqueduct, forum and a Christian basilica were built.
Early Medieval Ages
Dalmatia suffered greatly during the barbarian invasions of Rome. At first the Huns ravaged the city and then, in 481 A.D the city was incorporated in the Ostrogothic Kingdom of Italy, the barbarian successor to Rome. The city would decline severely in importance during this period and an earthquake would rattle what little had not been ravaged by neglect. The medieval city that you see today would rise from the ruins of its Roman past. It was reclaimed by the Eastern Roman Empire (Byzantium) in 553 A.D. Dalmatia was raided by the Avars shortly thereafter. Out of all the Byzantine possessions in the province, Zadar was the only city spared the humiliation of capture. Unfortunately Salona (Split) was destroyed making Zadar, now called Zara, the capital of Byzantine Dalmatia.
In the 7th century the city would again find a degree of success. As the capital of Byzantine Dalmatia, it was considered to be an important center. During this time many of the churches that now define the city were constructed on the ruins of their Roman predecessors. The city would remain firmly in Byzantine hands albeit with the exception of a short period of occupation by the Franks. During the bad years, Slavs that had previously lived on the hinterland of the city began to take residence in the depopulated city. These were the ancestors of the Croatians, they spoke a the Slavic dialect and from Zadar they would become the proud seafaring and island hoping people we know today. Changing demographics would spell the end of the local Romans. With more Croatians than Romans the romance language spoken in Zadar slowly died
Facing enemies on all landward fronts the city’s Byzantine administration turned to the sea, where it was developed as a maritime power to rival Venice, later incurring its jealous wrath. The Byzantines eventually normalized relations with the nearby Croatian kingdom and in 925 gifted the city of Zadar to the nascent Croat state under King Tomislav as an act of friendship. After the king’s death, Croatia fell apart and was besieged by King Samuel of Bulgaria but it resisted and held out against the Tsar’s armies.
High Middle Ages and the Renaissance
The High Middle Ages were a difficult time for the city as Venice thwarted its maritime ambition time after time. It invaded Dalmatia without much resistance, with the exception of Trogir, that suffered a long bloody siege. Venice subjected the city to heavy taxes and the city could not pay for its municipal upkeep. The city was then exchanged multiple times between Byzantium, Croatia, Venice and the combined kingdom of Croatia-Hungary. Zadar often appealed to foreign powers to protect if from Venice, hence why it passed through so many different hands. A particularly nasty incident was the Sack of Zara in 1202, when Venice manipulated the crusader army into destroying it as main Adriatic competitor.
Although the city saw much ruin during this period, it also witnessed a short golden era as it had become a leading port of Europe. Much of the rich architectural heritage that can be seen today was built during this period.
The 16th and 17th century were a challenging, yet still enlightened time for the municipality. The Ottoman Empire slowly advanced through the Balkans and captured most of the Balkans along the way. They would not be stopped until their eventual showdown with Austria in Vienna and it would be many years until they could be pushed back from the region. During this time Zadar was split from the mainland, now under Ottoman control, and the citizenry had to hid behind the thick walls for protection. Tremendous work was put into the fortifications and the city cistern system at this time, the enemy was literally at the gate. However, this was also the time of the Renaissance and for what the city lacked in security, it made up for in artistic development. This era saw the rise of many figures of importance in both the Italian and Croatian communities.
Austria, Yugoslavia and the Modern Era
In 1797, Venice was annexed by Austria and Zadar became part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, with a brief interlude where it was controlled by the French Kingdom of Italy and later Napoleon’s puppet state the Illyrian Provinces. The city retained its title as the capital of Dalmatia but it stagnated culturally and economically. With the replacement of the existing administration, the Italian and Croatian population where now at odds. The Italians had used the rule of Venice to support themselves and boost their own into the best social positions. Supported by the Austrian state, Croat nationalism surged – in turn reducing Italian claims to the land and their influence in the administration of the city.
Of course, Italy was not done subjecting the Balkans to their domineering influence. After the First World War, Italy invaded northern Dalmatia and took the city by force. They would use it as a staging point for their invasion of nearby Yugoslavia during the Second World War, annexing all of Dalmatia in the process. Croats were forcibly displaced and assimilated. In 1943, when Italy switched sides, the Nazi’s took over operations. Under German rule it was heavily bombed and over 80% of the city was destroyed. During this time Italians citizens left on mass and Yugoslav Partisans eventually occupied the city. By the end of the war Zadar was a shell of its former self.
The Yugoslav years were consumed with rebuilding both residential areas and critical infrastructure destroyed during the course of the Second World War but Zadar would suffer another blow with the advent of the Croatian War (1991-1995). Before the start of the war, Serbs in the hinterland of Dalmatia were fomenting a rebellion with the help of the Yugoslav State. As a retaliation for the killing of Croat policemen, the city exploded into anti-Serb violence. During the war JNA (Serb) units marched on the city culminating with the shelling of the city and heavy firefights in the villages surrounding the old town. During the period of Croatian independence the city has again become a hub for tourism and landmine clearance is ongoing.
What to do in Zadar?
Even with the mass destruction sustained by Zadar over the 20th century, there is still much to do. Dedicate at least a full weekend to exploring the city and add a few extra days more if you want to relax or enjoy some day-trips.
Fortifications
No trip to Zadar is possible without passing though the massive fortifications that once kept the forces of the Ottoman Empire out of this Venetian enclave. At one time, it considered to be the largest city-fortress in the Republic of Venice and what’s left of it is still quite impressive. As mentioned previously, the old town is built on a peninsula. Walls once encircled the perimeter of the city and were linked by a series of bastions and battlement but these have been reduced to an L shape around the south (mainland facing) and eastern sides (port facing) of the city. The northern and western walls facing the Adriatic have since been converted to public spaces. The city ceased to be considered a city-fortress under Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph and in 1868 the process of dismantling its fortifications began.
Typically, first time visitors will enter though the Land Gate, at the southern end of the the city. This is the main entrance to Zadar and is the most spectacular. A large moat (Fosa) separates the gate from the mainland, although a large section of it has been filled in. Whats left has been converted into a small marina. Above the gate you will find a lion of St Mark beckoning you inside. To the left of the gate is the Ponton Bastion.
When inside the fortress immediately turn left (east) down an alley that leads to the five wells square. Here you will see the remnant of an older wall that was protected by the Ponton Bastion. At the edge of this wall is the captain’s tower, offering a view of the old town from above.
The Ponton Bastion is just south of the square and is the largest and most impressive of the triangular bastion system that replaced the medieval walls. Bastions like this could hold many troops and many pieces of equipment such as cannons. Due to their angled shapes they could resist cannon fire much better than the previous flat faced incarnation. This is due to the fact that it is harder to land a direct blow on the triangular surface, thus the bulk of the artillery fire would ricochet off the surface instead of landing a direct impact, thus reducing the force of the blast. In front of the bastion is Perivoj Vladimira Nazora, a public park and gardens that you can see on your way into the city. This park was once home to a massive fortress that added an extra level of protection to the city. You will see the roof of a building from the park, this is the old grammar school.
The seawalls to the east of the city, facing the harbour, are less impressive the further north you go. You will find a large wall at the south-east corner called the St. Marcella Bastion and eventually the St. Rocko’s gate. You can find a pedestrian bridge here that takes you across the harbour to the mainland.
Public Spaces and Roman Ruins
As mentioned in the fortification section there is a public space called the five wells square. It is named for the five wells you will find located along the wall of the Ponton Bastion. These wells were part of one of the largest public improvement projects in the city’s history, the city constructed a system of aqueducts and cisterns to keep the city supplied with water when under duress. This public place is connected to Petar Zoranic square. At the center of this space stands a roman column, the only one left from the Capitolum, a temple dedicated to the god Jupiter. The square is adjoined to the St. Simeon church just to the south and serves as a small square to access the ducal palace
The column was originally from the Roman Forum, where the temple it was taken from was located, so naturally this should lead you to explore that public space. The Roman Forum now called Old Town Square, near St. Donatus has been excavated and you can see plenty of column bases and exposed foundations of where the important structures of Zadar used to stand. Oddly enough you will find several postwar buildings breaking the illusion of the old, many structures were not rebuilt after the war. The new public markets can be found beside St. Rockos gate where a pedestrian bridge connects to the mainland. The markets are located inside the city walls.
Another great public space is the People’s Square, here you will find the old city guard building dating from 1562 and the beautiful city loggia, once serving as the courthouse
Finally, the last great public space in Zadar is the waterfront. The fortifications have been cleared from both the north and west sides of the city, exposing it to the sea. Walking along the waterfront promenade is the quintessential Zadar experience. The breeze is delightful and the walking space is expansive giving you the feeling of being alone on some parts of it.
On the northern tip of the peninsula you will find the sea organ, a sea organ is exactly what it sounds like, the water playing music. The boulevard steps down towards the water, making it feel like the sea is part of the city itself. In these steps you have holes and the water rushing in creates a distinct melodic sound. At night there is a pad that lights up and the sea organ becomes a sound and light show.
Churches and Abbeys
Although much of the rich architectural heritage once present in Zadar has been obliterated, most of the churches have been restored to their former splendour. Here are a few you may want to check out:
St. Simeon’s Church
This orange painted church may not look like much on the outside but it is here that some of Zadar’s most important relics are kept. If you go inside the church and look above the main altar you will see a wooden sarcophagus dating from the 14th century, embroidered with silver that holds the relics of St. Simeon. To read more about how relics from Syria ended up in Zadar and the stories of the miracles associated with them you can consult this Wikipedia article.
St. Donatus Church
The most famous of Zadar’s churches, it dates back to the 9th century and is located just north of the roman forum. Built in Romanesque style, its shape is almost cylindrical. It is named after Donatus of Zadar, a native of the city who petitioned for funds to build the church. He asked Charlemagne, the famous king of the Franks and his request was received positively. The cylindrical shape is reminiscent of other Frankish churches from this period. It has not served as a church since the time of the French and Austrians, serving as a warehouse and is now a venue. Inside you can still see the remnants of a roman sacrificial altar since the church was built directly over the forum.
St. Anastasia Cathedral
The largest church in Dalmatia, this cathedral was built in 1324, over the remains of a the previous church previously damaged by the Crusaders. It was conceived with an Italianate style that is reminiscent of the Renaissance. The church bell-tower was completed in 1452. It contains the ashes of St. Anastasia and a small art museum.
St. Chrysogonus Church
This beautiful Romanesque church was built in 1175 and is one of my favourites. Unlike most churches of this style in Dalmatia, it does not have a bell tower as it was planned but never completed. It once secretly contained the remains of a Hungarian queen, Elizabeth of Bosnia.
St Mary’s Church
Another iconic building built on the roman forum this Benedictine monastery dates from 1066 but had to be rebuilt after its destruction during the Second World War.
Monastery of St. Francis Assisi
This 13th century building is typical. It consists of a square building with a colonnaded courtyard. Pretty but otherwise not particularly interesting.
Institutions and Museums
The old town of Zadar has a vast array of cultural institutions such as the Zadar university (mentioned earlier). The university, one of the oldest in Europe, was founded in 1396 but ceased operation in 1807. It re-established as a satellite campus of the university of Zagreb in 1956 and was officially reopened as its own distinct institution by an act of Parliament in 2002. The university has grown in standing since then and is now considered to be one of the leading institutions in the country. Franjo Tuđman, the first president of Croatia graduated from the university in 1965.
Museums in the old town include the Arsenal, located at the north end of the city. It is a medieval warehouse and is a breath of fresh air being far more original than your typical archaeological institution. There is also the Glass Museum, displaying artifacts and collections, although I must admit that I did not visit it. Glass making is not one of my interests. Both the National and the Archaeological Museum display items from the Zadar’s past. If in a pinch for time I would just pick one of these last two.
Although unremarkable and concealed by its plain entrance near St. Simeon’s the Dukes Palace is always worth a look. The door was ajar and I walked inside only to find gallery. I found out from the lady at the front desk that the building now houses rotating exhibits, in this case it was a photography display. I payed the entrance fee and walked around viewing photographs and exhibits detailing the role of the city in the Second World War and the damage inflicted upon it. The city loggia in the peoples square also serves as an exhibition space.
Day Trips
Plitvice Lakes
This National Park is one of the most visited places in Croatia. It is known for its stunning system of interconnected waterfalls and lakes. To read more click here.
Nin
This small royal town built on an island lagoon has a long history and a beautiful a coastline. Bring a bathing suit if you want to go swimming. To read more on Nin click here.
Nightlife
Zadar has a lively night life due to the proliferation of beach clubs, cafes, bars, terraces and seaside resorts. The old town is well lit and roaming the city parks you can find many locals youths drinking Ožujsko beer. On my first night in the city, I had not made friends in my hostel. I sat at a local bar and started talking to a group of locals. My Croatian is awful and only one of them spoke English fluently but somehow, I made them laugh and we became friends. I bought a round of tequilas and they invited me out on a pub crawl the following night.
Bars with terraces can be found throughout the town, but most of these close early in the evening. A few bars will stay open past midnight but after that you should go to a club. They are mostly located on the north end of the city but Ledana Lounge Bar and Club located in Queen Jelena Madijevka Park on the south bastion is a great place. It is open till 4am (second picture in slideshow).
Conclusion
Who am I? What the hell am I doing with my life? What is the purpose in all this wandering? Can I move here? You may find yourself asking these very same questions while watching the waves roll in, falling asleep to their soothing sounds. The alcohol from the last night may still lingers on your breath but you feel alive, freshened, even good! Zadar cures all illness of the mind! Enjoy a weekend in paradise, they don’t make em’ like Zadar anymore. You will leave this place in time, but your mind will always wistfully drift back to those hot summer days on the Adriatic.
