Yoho National Park – A Mountaineer’s Waterfall Filled Paradise
Driving west past the Alberta border, along the historic Kicking Horse Pass into British Columbia, I came into Yoho National Park, perhaps the most underrated place in the Canadian Rocky Mountains. Unlike many of the hikes I had done in nearby Banff, Yoho is all about the waterfalls. Above all else “Yoho”, a Cree expression of awe and wonder, lived up to all my expectations and even exceeded them.
Table of Contents
- Park Layout
- Spiral Tunnels At Kicking Horse Pass
- Emerald Lake and the Natural Bridge
- Iceline Trail, Falls and Yoho Valley
- Town of Field, BC
- Lake O’Hara
- Wapta Falls
- Conclusion
Park Layout
Full Park Map
Here is a quick overview of the attractions covered in this post.
Yoho Glacial Valley Map
I have included the official park map for your convenience since it can be hard to find online. It is best to park at Takakkaw Falls if you wish to explore the glacial valley, especially High Falls one of the best waterfalls I’ve ever witnessed.
Spiral Tunnels At Kicking Horse Pass
This impressive feat of engineering is often peoples first stop off on their way into Yoho from Alberta. The tunnels were built to replace a section of CP Rail track that has too high a grade and presented a safety hazard. Today when can pull over to the side of the road and observe trains emerge from the tunnel portals. For more info click here.
As for the drive into Kicking Horse pass, it is just as impressive!
Emerald Lake and the Natural Bridge
The largest of Yoho’s lakes Emerald is also one of the prettiest in the Canadian Rocky Mountains. A popular canoeing destination, it still feels underappreciated. On your way in you will have a chance to see an impressive rock formation straddling the kicking Horse River. This area lies just west of Field and is easy to access. For more info click here.
Iceline Trail, Falls and Yoho Valley
Just east of Fied, after the Spiral Tunnels, you will find the most impressive part of Yoho national park – the Iceline Trail and its glacier surrounded valley. It is from the glacier valley up ahead that the waters forming the the Kicking Horse River are borne, from water falls, to streams, merging into river. Do bring snacks as this 14.2kilometer (8.8 mile trail) will take you some time to complete. This trail is almost empty of other hikers and offers a perfect look at what wilderness is like at its best.
Driving In
Driving to the Park is an absolutely magical experience, watching ahead as the roadway reveals peak after peak of unadulterated backcountry wilderness.
Along the road you will find stunning switchback turns, the Kicking Horse Campground and beautiful river view points.
Speaking of the river, you can pull over and check it out the Meeting of the Waters Viewpoint or get a view of the landscape from the bridge across the river.
Takakkaw Falls
Your first stop after the paved roadway comes to a parking lot at the base of Takakkaw Falls. This 373 meters (1,224 ft) behemoth is a sight to be seen!
The name for the falls translates roughly into the word wonderful” in Cree. They are fed by the flow of the Daly Glacier meltwaters up above.
The glacier keeps the water pumping evern though the long days of summer.
From the falls, the river winds down into wilderness nestled by high peaks.
As you approach the falls themselves a powerful must will hit you, as you would expect from such a powerful set of falls!
If you cant get enough of this waterfall, here is a few extras pictures to satisfy you!
Iceline Trailhead (Takakkaw Falls Campgound)
Heading north past the Takakkaw Falls, you will get a stunning view of the giant amidst the landscape.
Eventually you will reach the Takakkaw Falls Campground, a walk-in site at the base of the Iceline Trail.
Casueways will take you across some stream beds and into the forest.
Point Lace Falls (Bonus Fall Off Path)
A few kilometers into the trail you will find your first waterfall. A small one but it only gets better from here.
Laughing Falls and the Yoho Gorge (8.4 Km’s)
The first major stop on the way is Laughing Falls. To get here you will have to cross a watercourse, doubling as a type of rapids though a limestone rock channel (Yoho Gorge).
Past this the stream becomes calm again, its emerald water leading you to the next fall, which you will shortly hear in the distance.
Although less impressive than the first waterfall, it posses a massive volume and as easy to climb up into.
Looking back you will have a fantastic view of a peak!
As you get closer to the fall, you will see plenty of driftwood lining the water course. The 30m drop offer a good amount of spray that can be refreshing on a warm day!
This is a great place to take pictures!
Here are a few more pictures if you would like.
Angel’s Staircase Falls
After taking a short break to explore and rest at Laughing Falls, the path will take you up on an incline above the landscape on a pathway ridge.
This forested area will afford great view of the surrounding landscape.
As well as Angel falls from across the Valley
Marpole Lake
You next waypoint will be Marpole Lake. To reach it you will have to climb along a stone field at the base of a cliff face.
Along hte way you will be able to find and impressive collection of wild mushrooms.
The lake itself offers great view of the surrounding mountains.
Twin Falls and the Tea House
After passing the lake you will have to complete one more leg of uphill hiking. Here at the base of twin falls, you will get a magnificent view of the fall’s runoff among the background of the surrounding mountains. It is here that you will find a bridge to cross the fast running water.
Just up the road you will be able to view Twin Falls in all its glory! This is the most underrated attraction in Yoho and I had the whole place to myself!
It also a good place to pitch a hammock and enjoy the view!
Not far from the Falls you will find an old CPR teahouse, built for tourists by the railroad company. The fist of these structures built in Yoho was the one at Twin Falls dating 1923. Paying homage to its isolated location, the rustic structure has no running water but a lot of character and as such is a national historic site.
When done at the waterfall, follow the path down the stream back towards base camp.
Marpole Falls
During this part of the walk you will be privy to beautiful view of the water sliding down its limestone corridor, such as this shot taken not far down the hill from Twin Falls.
Or this shot with a peak in the background.
Here are a few more just for fun.
Town of Field, BC
At the base of the pass you will find the quiet mountain town of Field, British Columbia. This quaint hangout is a popular hangout for hikers and day trippers. For more info click here.
Lake O’Hara
I have not yet visited this isolated glacial lake but I hear that it is phenomenal (reservations are required however). When I complete an exploration of the region I will return to fill out this section.
Wapta Falls
I have not yet visited these waterfalls, although i head they are worth a stop off. When I complete an exploration of the region I will return to fill out this section.
Conclusion
As a child I had imagined the Rocky Mountains, wild and untamed and its loneliest recesses only seldom filled with the horn of a train and the occasional adventurous, yet strange, character. This illusion was shattered by the crass commercialism of Banff (don’t take it too hard Banff – I love you anyway), yet that same naive picture I had painted in my mind was once again found in Yoho !
