Xi’an – The Emperor’s Old Groove
The treasures of the old imperial kingdom are buried far inland, away from the modern center of power of the modern Chinese state. Buried and forgotten it lied in waiting for its day of discovery. Although many had heard the stories of an ancient mausoleum buried near Xian, it was a simple farmer tending to his field who would lead experts to the archaeological treasure trove we now know to be the Mausoleum of the First Qin Emperor.
Table of Contents
History of Xi’an
Ancient and Prehistoric Era
As one of the most storied cities in ancient china, it should be no surprise that Xi’an has been occupied since the prehistoric era. In 1963, the Lantian Man was discovered near Xi’an. It was the oldest Homo erectus remain to be found in Western Asia. This indicates an occupation of the land dating from an era predating that of written history.
As one of the oldest centers of imperial china the city developed as a capital for the Zhou dynasty in the 11th century B.C. This is the longest lasting Chinese dynasty. Around 770B.C the capital was moved away from Xi’an.
Imperial Xian
The Qin dynasty, successors to the Zhou, constructed their mausoleum east of the city. Their new capital Xianyang was located just north of the Wei River, north-west of Xi’an. The terracotta army was completed under Qin Shi Huang, the first emperor of unified China.
Under the Han dynasty emperor Liu Bang constructed the Weiyang Palace, a massive complex larger that the even the forbidden palace in Beijing (over 6 times!). Under this dynasty the old town as we know began to take place after the construction of a city walls in 194 B.C Subsequent dynasties made their mark on the city yet in 190B.C the capital was moved to Luoyang and with the exception of a brief interlude in the 4th century under the Jin, would not return till 582 A.D under the Sui dynasty. At the time it was the largest city in the world. During the 8th century Christianity began to be introduced to the Chinese people under the Tang Dynasty. At the end of their rule the capital was leveled and the were forced to move to Luoyang. It was the end of an era. In 1370 the mind dynasty built a new wall, yet the city was much reduced than at its peak during the Tang dynasty.
Modern Era
In 1911, the Xinhai revolution overthrew the Qing dynasty, last emperors of China. Han Chinese and Muslims took this as an opportunity to kill over 20 000 ethnic Manchu‘s in the city and enslaving their girls. Yet, despite this instability, it was a time of great economical advancement for the city. Always an important center of Western China the city developed as a major railway hub and a center of industry. It was also a major center of the communist ideology, imported north from Russia.
In 1936, during the Chinese Civil War Xi’an was the location of an armistice between the Kuomintang (Nationalists) and the Communists. It was decided that both forces would unite to fight the Japanese (Japan invaded China before the start of the Second World War). The city fell to the communists in 1949 after many years of struggle.
What to do in Xian?
There is little left of old Xi’an. Most of the old city was redeveloped during the years of communist rule (and furthermore the city has been razed to the ground several times throughout its history), yet what little is left of the city is absolutely stunning.
Terracotta Mausoleum of the First Qin Emperor
Located east of Xi’an, in the center of farmers fields, the mausoleum is the primary reason that people visit the city. From the ground it is hard to tell where the complex lies but from the air, its locations is painfully obvious. The necropolis lies under forested pyramid shaped mound, one that sticks out like a sore thumb!
The topography of the region ensures large water reserves located in underground cavities and springs. As such the digging of a water well by a farmer in 1974 prompted a full blown archeological expeditions by the Chinese state. The sunken necropolis was excavated to reveal thousands of terracotta solders protecting the emperor. The modern complex you see today was built to preserve the site, a testament to the importance of the discovery. The main chamber of the necropolis is now under a large dome that allowed you to walk around and explore the complex from above.
The rest of the complex is now a museum dedicated to the history of the site. The complex was begun in 246 B.C, near the start of the emperors reign allowing for continuous expansion. It is though that 700000 people participated in the construction of the complex. The terracotta figures are carved in detail and even included weapons weaponry, although much of that is now gone. You will even find terracotta horses! As mentioned previously the main necropolis includes the Terracotta Army guarding the emperor but also included in your admission is a whole museum, thus there are smaller excavated pockets that you will be able to see and many items recovered from the digs have been put on display.
Old Xi’an and City Walls
Although little remains of old Xi’an the city walls remains in striking defiance of the modern city growing around it!
Dating from the Ming Dynasty the thick 14th century construction is perhaps the most comprehensive heritage structure in the city proper. It is surrounded by a large moat that still remains in place to this day.
Due to the city’s position at the end of the Silk Road, an ancient trade route, Xi’an has always attracted a certain amount of attention to itself due to its commercial interests. To protect the city for jealous neighbors, walls have always been in need. The wall you see today is not exactly the same as you would have seen in 1370, it has changed many times since its inception.
The walls first incorporated parts of a tang palace wall, and other ruined historical monuments. Many sections were built as earthen mounds and later expanded and reinforced with blue bricks in the 16th century and fortified bastions were added.
Remarkably during the 20th century, in an era were fortifications were being demolished throughout China, the Nationalist government in was in the processes of improving Xi’an’s strategic fortifications.
Today the walls are a major attraction in Xi’an. The walls themselves and their moat serve as a park for the locals, many of white walk the perimeter for exercise. Although the paving stones are rough, a popular tourist thing to do it to ride round the walls on bikes. With a staggering 15m width of walking space you will be sure to have plenty of space to ride around.
As for the old town, there is very little left of the old Manchu city. You will mostly find greying communist tenement buildings but there are a few monuments of Xi’an’s past still standing. Structures of note include a massive Ming era bell tower in the center of the old town, the great mosque Xian built in 742 A.D during the Tang Dynasty, the Beilin Museum (museum of stellas), the monstrous Shaanxi People’s Government, a second century Han Buddhist temple (Wolong) and the St. Francis Cathedral. The Beilin museum contains the first Christians stella’s recording christian life in the city while the church may confound you, the 18th century building looks like it could be directly transported from Europe!
When you have finally worked up an appetite i recommend going to grab a bite to eat in one of two places, either Yongxingfang Street for more traditional Chinese fare or explore Huimin Jie in Pingyin (the Muslim quarter), to find delicious street food. If you have to puck one I would chose the Muslim quarter. Home to the hui people, the quarter developed as Xi’an became the western terminus for the silk road. The cramped alleys make for an excellent market for both goods and food.
Pagoda’s and Palaces
To the north of the old town, you will find the ruins of Daming Palace. The main gate has been reproduced to give a perspective of the imposing scale of this project. Although the palace is gone, the ruins should give you an insight on what life was life in the Tang Dynasty during the 7th century A.D. The palace was originally conceived as a summer palace for the emperors ailing father.
One of the most popular sights is Xi’an is the UNESCO inscribed Giant Wild Goose Pagoda, a tower looming above much of the city. Surrounding the pagoda is a large complex of buildings and gardens along with a large plaza with water fixtures.
The pagoda was built in 652 during the reign of the Tang Emperors. The walls are made entirely of masonry but was only five stories. It was expanded again during the 8th century and during the reign of the Ming Emperors. It is currently a 7th story building, of 64m in height, after loosing a few stories to an earthquake in the 16th century. The Buddhist religious institution is part of the Daci’en Temple complex.
If you do get the chance, take a closer look at the building. The tower does lean slightly to one side!
Although the name is anti climactic by its very nature the Small Wild Goose pagoda is just as impressive. Built in the 8th century its resembles the former but is narrower and shorter. The building houses many Buddhist texts from India.
Other Things to do
A popular thing to do in the evenings is to go see a Tang Dynasty era show and dinner. Although many highly recommend this activity, I cant recommend it as it is not in my usual interests. The costumes and acrobatics are incredible and if you are into that sort of thing this would be an incredible experience.
