Wadi Rum – The Seven Pillars of Wisdom
Since I’m sure this picturesque desert hideout has been heavily covered by travel bloggers, I will instead attempt to give travellers a guide to navigating Wadi Rum. At the time of my visit the weather was not cooperative and the pictures did not really come out very well! I am planning on returning to the Wadi on day to get the full unfiltered experience!
Table of Contents
- A Introduction to Wadi Rum and Movie History
- Inside the Park and Out (Whats the Difference?-Wadi Rum Protected Area)
- Should I Ride A Camel (and other transport)?
- Tent or Space Pod?
- What are Nightimes Like in the Desert?
- Seven Pillars of Wisdom and Other Formations
- Don’t Get Scammed – The Real Lawrence’s Spring
- Experience Bedouin Culture Through Coffee and Food
A Introduction to Wadi Rum and Movie History
Referred to as the Valley of the Moon (Arabic: وادي القمر Wādī al-Qamar) by the local Bedouin tribes, Wadi Rum is a historic desert valley cut into the sandstone and granite rock. Located in in the southern tier of Jordan, this UNESCO site is best known for its association with the Nabataean Empire and the TE Lawrence, better known as Lawrence of Arabia.
Occupied since time immemorial, the Camel filled plain has been an important caravan stopoff for the Bedouin in their journeys across the desert. During the First World War is was used as a staging point for the Arab Revolt, an event witnessed and participated in by the British liaison T.E Lawrence who would describe the area vividly in his acount of the revolt – the Seven Pillars of Wisdom. During the second half of the 20th century the area became an important filming location after the shooting of Lawrence of Arabia (1962) with Peter O’Tool as the titular charecter
Inside the Park and Out (Whats the Difference?-Wadi Rum Protected Area)
There are two distinct areas to Wadi Rum inside the Protected Area and outside of it. Generally speaking the camps outside the protected area are built around the town of Disah and are cheaper. The tours don’t all venture into the Wadi Rum area and so you need to be careful what you choose. If unsure of where the tours actually go, drive into the visitors center and book a tour of Wadi Rum in town.
Anyway, whatever you do make sure to stop at the visitors center and pay the park dues.
Should I Ride A Camel (and other transport)?
Yes you absolutely should! The local Bedouin have gone to great pains to promote ethical tourism. Unlike many other parts of the middle east (namely Egypt), the animals here are well treated and are part of a long tradition of working alongside the people of Wadi Rum. If the art of riding of camel is not for you there are also many 4×4 tour offered that lead you deep into the park.
Tent or Space Pod?
Wadi Rum is known for its read – mars like – sand and as such many hospitality operators offer stays in what looks to be alien like pods. These typically offer more comfort that most of the tents but that the tents offer a more authentic experience. The accommodations vary in terms of luxury and if you want modern restrooms make sure to check out what the camps offer. What is great about Wadi Rum is the variety of accommodation.
What are Nightimes Like in the Desert?
The night’s sky in Wadi Run is like no other in the world, with a look at the stars that once enchanted T.E Lawrence himself. Unfortunately due to the rain clouds overhead I did not get to experience any of that. I will have to come back and give an opinion upon my next visit!
Seven Pillars of Wisdom and Other Formations
The most iconic of Wadi Rum’s rock formations is the Jabal al-Mazmar (The Mountain of (the) Plague). Today it is called “The Seven Pillars of Wisdom”, renamed for the famed novel (yet with no relation to it). You will see it on the way into the park. At the end of the paved roadway you will find the village of Wadi Rum wither park here or back at the visitors center. Many of the 4×4 tours leave from the village but some will pick you up back at the visitors center. From the park you will have the option of rock climbing or hiking up some of the famous mountains where you will find ancient Petroglyphs and Talmunic inscription. In fact rock climbing is not a new thing in these parts and has historically been practiced by the Bedouin of the Valley. One of the best hikes is the one to reach the top of Jabal Ram where the valley will extend below. Another is the impressive Burdah Rock Bridge, an iconic formation. In contrast with the natural beauty of the area, other attractions are more cultural in nature. This includes the ruins of a Nabatean temple, a house that T.E Lawrence once stayed at and a spring he once drank from.
Don’t Get Scammed – The Real Lawrence’s Spring
Many tours offer you to take you to the famous well that Lawrence drank from. Do your research first as many will not take you to the famous Wadi Rum Area but a lesser area outside the park gates. Do your research and make sure the tours are license and or affiliated with the park itself. For more information or to confirm credentials stop of at the visitors area at the start of the park.
Experience Bedouin Culture Through Coffee and Food
The desert Bedouin are a people known for their generous hospitality, a trait that has not changed in these people despite the gradual change in lifestyle from nomadic to a more sedentary life. In their culture a cup of coffee is more than a drink, it is a window into the soul of an ancient people. You see the soothing sound of coffee beans being ground into a mortar and pestle, and water being boiled, will bring in a whole group of people into a tent. Since time immemorial this drink has been used to settle disputes and negotiate business, yet it has also served as the social epicenter of the Bedouin people. To me the odd thing was that the coffee actually tastes like tea! Generally speaking there are two types of coffee Qahwa Sada (plain coffee) and Qahwa Helwe (Sweet Coffee). This coffee can be sweetened with sugar as well! Usually the coffee will be consumed after a communal meal, where traditional herder dishes such as Mansaf are served. This dish is a combination of a lamb served with bulgur wheat (or rice) and cooked in a sauce of fermented dried yogourt.