Vilnius – The Alternative (and Baroque) Capital of the Baltics

The Baltic Capital, home to the Lithuanian people, is a curious beast. Displaying the best assortment of Baroque architecture I have aver witnessed. The city once known by the Polish name of Wilno or the Jewish name of Vilna and the legendary location of the Iron Wolf feels anchored solidly in its past. Yet the city is refreshingly clean, well maintained and modern, it is also dare I say it… One of the funniest cities in Europe, displaying a particularly native seance of humour in the self declared “Republic of Užupis”, formally a derelict Jewish quarter, emptied of its inhabitants during the war. This leads me to my last point, as a once major hub of for Eastern Europe’s Ashkenazi population, the city’s long Jewish lineage has led it to becoming a cultural center of pre-war Judaism where the world famous bagel may have originated from.

Geography

Located in South-Western Lithuania, a mostly flat land with little hill and many farms. Built on the intersection of the Neris River and the Vilnia, the only topographical feature of note are the twin hills at the confluence of the two rivers, one of which the Grand Duke Gedimina’s Tower is built upon. The hills straddle the Vilnia’s mouth and offer fantastic views of the city.

Transportation and Day Trips

The city is home to the typical forms of intra-city mass transportation, trains, plane and buses connecting to several international and domestic destinations.

Air Travel

Air travellers will pass through the modernized Vilnius International Airport, not far south of the city. This airport consist of a standard 1950’s faux classical soviet era arrivals terminal and a more modern addition for the departures. The airport is connected to the capital via a railway station outside the main terminal. I enjoy the retro, yet modern, feel of this airport.

Rail Travel (and Rail Baltica)

Just outside the old town you will find Geležinkelio Stotis, the main train station. From here you can access a plethora of domestic and international destination (with the exception of Poland). With the completion of the future Rail Baltica, the city will be connected to a variety of Western European and Baltic cities via a high speed rail network running through Kaunas. Since the tracks are currently Russian gauge ones, trips are not possible to Poland forcing travellers to take the bus.

Bus Travel

The bus terminal is located just across the street from the train station. Buses are clean comfortable and modern, so there is no issues with reliability. I took a bus to Warsaw and it was long but worthwhile. Hopefully Rail Baltica makes it easier to travel internationally.

Day Trips

Trakai

The standard day trip for tourists spending a few days in the capital is to go to Trakai, a mere 28km’s from the Vilnius. Trakai is essentially Lithuania’s Lake district and is known for its fantastic island castle. The train trip takes you across the untouched Lithuanian countryside. While here, try Kibinai, a fantastic pork based pastry.

History of Vilnius

The Legend of the Founding of Vilnius

The city is often associated with its sigil, that of the Iron Wolf and the nation’s greatest hero and founder. The while hunting in the area Grand Duke of Lithuania Gediminas dreamed of an Iron Wolf howling proudly from a hill. In the morning he consulted with a pagan priest about his strange dream. The priest told him to found a city where the wolf was located and that this settlement will be “the capital of Lithuanian lands, and its reputation would spread far and wide, as far as the howling of the mysterious wolf…’.

The city was at first named Vilna, after the stream that runs through it.

Medieval Lithuania

Vilnius would develop from a trading center to a small city during the second half of the 13th century. It is first mentioned in sources in 1323, when Grand Duke Gediminas invites Germans (including Jews) to settle in his capital. Previously the princely court was held at Trakai castle. The city was ideally located deep in the backcountry forests of Lithuania, offering its inhabitants shelter from attacks from crusading Teutonic Knights and moscowvites. Under the reign of Algirdas, Moscow was destroyed on multiple occasions for their intrusions on Lithuanian soil and the Teutons, aided by the future king of England Henry Bolingbroke (Henry IV) attacked the city in 1390 and 1392 but were repelled. The allied victory at the Battle of Grunwald (Tannberg) in 1410 ended the Teutonic Threat. Under the dual reigns of Vytautas the Great and Jogaila, the city was razed during the Lithuanian Civil War of 1389–1392 and under the rule of the former Lithuania became the largest state in Europe.

Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth

Despite the city’s setbacks during the civil war, it quickly recovered. The cousins would put aside their differences and rule jointly often conversing in the Lithuanian dialect. Eventually Jogaila became, king Władysław II Jagiełło, and both nations were merged into the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, a strange union that would become one of the most prosperous and progressive nations of the medieval era. It is in this era that Lithuania would convert from its pagan past into a new Christian future.

The city was a favorite of King Sigismund II Augustus who moved his court here and showered it with his patronage. The city benefited greatly from this period and under his reign Vilnius was the pre-eminant center of the Commonwealth. The polish treasury, located in of the royal palace, grew to a magnificence hardly seen by mortal eyes and city walls were constructed to house a growing population. Furthermore, under Stefan Bathory, it became as Vilnius University, in 1579, the oldest such institution in the Baltic region. The esteemed Bathory has been referenced in several of my posts pertaining to central Europe, particularly Romania, Slovakia and Hungary). The city was opened up to foreigners including Poles, Germans, Ashkenazi Jews, Ruthenian (ancestors to today’s Ukrainians and Belorussians) and Russians. Yiddish and Hebrew were commonly used and the city becoming a hub for the Jewish people almost unparalleled in Europe outside of Budapest. This was due to the liberal tenants of the Polish constitution allowing for a degree of religious tolerance unheard of for the time period.

The 17 and 18th centuries were difficult for the city, it was hit by bouts of plagues, multiple fires, a massacre by Russia during the Russo-Polish War (1654–1667) and the loss of much of the Commonwealths territory during a series of was called The Deluge. During this period the Commonwealths territory was divided by Prussia, Austria, Sweden (early on) and Russia. Yet by the time Vilnius entered the Russian empire, it was the third largest city in that behemoth.

Russian Occupation

In 1794, Polish General Jakub Jasiński revolted against the partition of the commonwealth and retook the city from Russia but it was quickly retaken during the third partition of Poland in 1795. It would remain in Russian hands until the end of the First World War. Under Russian rule the walls were demolished (minus the Gates of Dawn). The city was briefly liberated in 1812 by Napoleon but that was not to last. The emperor retreated from Moscow and mass graves of his dying soldiers were uncovered in the city during a dig in 2002. In response of the Lithuanians warm welcome of Napoleon, the Russians brutally repressed the nation thus slowing growth in the city considerable. The university was shuttered in 1831 and unrest was suppressed by the Russian army in 1861 and 1863. Both the use of the Lithuanian and Polish language were banned. At the end of the century Jews made up 40% of the population of the city and the Lithuanian population made up only a tiny portion of the population with the rest being split between Polish and Russians.

In 1905 the Great Seimas of Vilnius took place setting the stage for the future independence of Lithuania.

First Republic, Poland and the World Wars

At the conclusion of the First World War, Churchill, supported the Baltic States against the now Bolshivic Russia. The city had been occupied by Germany since 1918 and fighting broke out throughout the Baltics between several competing forces. The Lithuanians and Germans were forced to flee to the interior due to a Russian attack while the Polish defense force was defeated while holding the city. In 1919 the University would be reopened. The city would be liberated at the start of 1920 (by Poland), but retaken by Russia who would would “gift ” the city to Lithuania after their defeat during the Miracle on the Vistula (Battle of Warsaw). This would drive a wedge between both countries that still exists to this day. Only 6% of the city was Lithuanians and the Poles would annex the city from the Lithuanians, making it part of the Wilno Voivodeship (the Polish name for the city). Lithuanians were angry to lose their historic capital while the poles wanted to retain a predominantly ethnic polish city).

Germany would invade Poland in 1939 along with the Soviet Union. Lithuania was invited by Germany to join in but would try to stay out of it due to Germany’s threat to take Kleipedia (then Memel) from them. The Soviets took Vilnius from Poland and the city’s factories and industrial equipment were pillaged and the population brutally repressed. Lithuania was soon dragged into the war when it was cohered into signing a mutual defence pact with Russia and the city was handed over to them. This was a mistake, As the soviets used in as a pretext to annex the young country in 1940. Under Lithuanian rule polish schools were shuttered but a foreign consulate was opened offering visas for life for Jews, the first for allowing Jews to escape. After the Russian annexation 20 000-30 000 residents were immediately sent to the gulag.

The Germans began their invasion of Russian in 1941 under Operation Barbarossa. Hoping to capitalize (and lets face it, they probably didn’t think it could get any worse), Lithuanians revolted and welcomed the Germans. The Germans were greeted with open arms and the locals rejoiced, but German occupation would also prove to be long and brutal. Two ghettos were set up and Jews immediately began being liquidated. By the end of the Holocaust 95% of the 265,000-strong Jewish population of Lithuania was exterminated, most of them in Vilnius, the same fate awaited many Poles, Russians and Liberal Lithuanians. By 1944 it was all over and Vilnius was once again part of the Soviet Union, Polish resistance was crushed.

Modern Era

From 1944-1953 Lithuanian partisans like their partisans in Lithuania and Estonia waged a guerilla war against the Soviet Union in vain. Germans were deported to Siberia and Poles to Poland in 1946. Vilna was now a place inhabited mostly by Lithuanians and Russians. During this time the NKVD brutalized the local Lithuanians. In the flowing decades the city was forcefully industrialized. Starting in the 1980’s a Singing Revolution would take place in the Baltic states, these non-violent protests were known for their upbeat mood and culminated with an event called the Baltic Way, a human chain stretching from Tallinn (Estonia), through Riga (Latvia) and culminating in Vilnius. This is the longest such confection ever formed and symbolized the share solidarity for independence thought the Baltic states.

On 11 March 1990, the Supreme Council of the Lithuanian SSR announced its an independent Republic of Lithuania in the context of the break up of the Soviet Union. The country was immediately invaded by Russia, in the capital the Radio and Television Building and the Vilnius TV Tower were attacked killing at least fourteen injuring 700. Official independence came on September 1991. The city has greatly benefited from independence, with major renovations to the city core and an expanding population and economy.

Fun Fact!

The Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth was the foundational home of the bagel and as one of the great Jewish cities of the state Vilna was home to one hell of a bagel scene. To read more about the history of this delightful snack and its attempted comeback within Vilnius, read this great article here!

Where to Stay

As long as you stay overnight in the Old Town, you will have an excellent time in the city. I personally recommend Jimmy Jumps Hostel, a lively youth orientated place with a bar and a lively spirit! As soon as I walked though the door I recognized a groups of rowdy (and extremely friendly!) Irishmen that I had made friends with back in Riga. By the time I returned from my room I already had a beer waiting for me at the bar!

What to do in Vilnius!

Vilnius is a fun city to walk around with since most the attraction can be found in the old urban core. There are a few attractions located outside the city walls but otherwise Vilna is best explored on foot!

Old Town

Town Hall Square and Surroundings

The pristine old town has survived traumatic events and has come out relatively unscathed on the surface. One should start their exploration of Vilnius in the very center of it, Town Hall Square. This triangular shaped public space is a fantastically lively public pace. At its northern end you will find the neoclassical town hall dating from 1799 along with a few vendors along the edges of the square.

The main street running through the square is Didžioji it is anchored on each end by churches, to the north, the iconic spire of the Nicholas’ Church and to the south the Church of St. Casimir. The later church is a masterpiece baroque architecture and the oldest building of this style constructed in the city. The building was completed in 1618 and is a personal favourite of mine.

University of Vilnius and Pilies Street

Following Didžioji/Pilies towards Cathedral Square you will come across many patios, more importantly you will have access to one of the best kept secret secrets of Vilnius.

If you are walking towards cathedral square, hang left on Šv. Jono street and look for a alleyway heading north just before a baroque tower. This will lead you to the University of Vilnius Courtyard where a stunning panorama of Church of St. Johns, St. John the Baptist and St. John the Apostle and Evangelist awaits. Although the university was founded in 1579, the church actually dates from the 14th century. This is where the Jesuit monks would go to pray. The public space once hosted knights and public events and later the church was used by students and professors of the university to pray. The university buildings should be visited for their stunning library. It is the third oldest in the Polish Lithuanian Commonwealth and the oldest in the Baltic region.

North Didžioji Street and the Gates of Dawn

Following the street south of Town Hall Square, Didžioji becomes the central street of the old town. Eventually you will come across the Lithuanian National Philharmonic, a concert space. This is the building where the Great Seimas of Vilnius was held in 1905. Underneath it runs a scenic gateway to Pasažo street.

Further down the street you will find the Gate of the Basilian Monastery, a 16th century monastery built by the Rurenthian community of the city to commemorate Battle of Orsha where the Commonwealth defeated the Muscovite army. This is the building that Polish poet Adam Mickiewicz was imprisoned for fighting the Russian rule in the Partition of Poland. Adam’s work is important to both the Lithuanian and Polish nations and you will find many streets in both countries named after this patriot of the commonwealth.

Next in line is the The Church of St Theresa and behind it the Gates of Dawn (Aušros vartai), the only remaining portion of the city walls.

The St. Theresa Church is another baroque masterpiece, I recommend visiting the interior of this one as the Rococo decor as it is stunning.

Just past this church you will find the Gates of Dawn one of my favorite attraction in the city.

Upon my first visit I was greeted to a magnificent chorus singing hymns from the gate, a particularly moving event. The upper floor is home to the Our Lady of the Gate of Dawn, a religious icon though to have special powers. Such religious icons were common in 16th century defensive fortification and were though to help ward off the enemy. This particular gate has special significance in both Polish and Lithuanian cultures where a cult dedicated to the veneration of Our Lady of the Gate of Dawn has sprung up. The cathedral of Gdansk is dedicated to this icon! Furthermore a replica shrine exists in the Vatican, blessed by Pope John Paul II and one of the few national shrines in the complex. For obvious reasons the exterior of the gate is a lot simpler in charterer. It features Vytis on its top crest, the knightly sygil of the Lithuanian coat of arms.

At night this monument is illuminated by spectacular uplifting making this a must see!

The Ruthenian Quarter

Back near Uzupis, you will find the Ruthenian quarter. This is the name for the eastern peasantry of the eastern Polish Lithuanian commonwealth, before the Ukrainian and Belarusian identities were cemented. Both churches in this section are located on the Vilnia river bend, on the opposite side of Uzipis.

The most beautiful church complex in the quarter, the St. Francis of Assisi (Bernardine) Roman Catholic Church and the Church of St. Anne are masterpieces of Lithuanian Gothic architecture. They feel almost apart from the city was you must enter though a gate and the interior of the complex is walled off. Originally conceived as part of the defensive network of the city, the monastery features narrow arrow slits. The 15th century building has a cavernous vaulted interior with white ceiling and well crafted wood fixtures. The 15th century church last saw renovations after a Russian Cossack force massacred all inside in the 17th century.

More in line with the eastern orthodox religion practiced by many Rurenthians you will find Cathedral of the Theotokos. Built during the 14th century, the building was reconstructed in baroque style in 1785 after the destruction of its predecessor and again was damaged during Kościuszko Uprising and transferred to the university thereupon after. It was confiscated by the Russians for their orthodox religion when the city was occupied, they rebuilt the building in theologian style in 1868. Services are now attended by both the Russian and Belarusian citizens of the city.

Gediminas Avenue, the KGB and the Minor Radvilos Palace (West Vilnius)

One of the principle streets of modern Vilnius, Gediminas Avenue runs along the east-west axis, perpendicular to cathedral square. The western leg contains many of euthanasia’s stately buildings including government offices, the National Library and private institutions such as the Bank of Lithuania.

In the eastern district of the city you will find the Minor Radvilos Palace, a 17th century minor palce that hosts the Lithuanian Music, Theater and cinema Museum. It was once home to the Radziwiłł family.

The best thing to see by far in this part of the city is the former KGB headquarters in Vilnius. A heartbreaking display has taken the place of the Russian police, called the Museum of Occupations and Freedom Fights detailing the injustices forced on the Lithuanian people by the Russian Secret police. The exhibits center on what the Lithuanian people had to endure during the occupation are excellent, unfortunately only a small exhibit space is dedicated to the Holocaust. I would love to see a larger space opened for this portion, maybe as a separate museum but I am worried that there is still too little sympathy or lingering anti-semetism present in Lithuanian society for the victims of the Holocaust. I think both ethnic Lithuanians and Jews have suffered a great deal in different and that it sometimes makes it difficult to understand one another. This is a must visit exhibit to understand the depths of the suffering in Lithuania under occupation and I will expand under the Jewish question in the following section.

Choral Synagogue and the Church of All Saints (North of the City Wall)

North of the Gates of Dawn you will find the Choral Synagogue of Vilnius. Built in 1903, it is the only remaining pre-war Jewish religious building still in existence in Vilnius. This is a city that once heald over 100 synagogues! The building is built in Neo-moorish style and is open to visitors. It is worth a look to see what remains of the city’s once rich Jewish heritage.

Unfortunately, I learned that in 2020 it was decided that the Great Synagogue of Vilna would not be reconstructed and would just be replaced by a commemorative park. This was disappointing to me. If anybody from the Lithuanian government is reading this, rebuilding a replica of the great synagogue as a holocaust museum would be a great opportunity to salvage relations with the Jewish community. I understand the pain that Lithuanians must have felt alongside the Jews as was particularly marked by a memoir by Quebec-Lithuanian author Alain Stanké called Des barbelés dans ma mémoire (Barbed Wire in my Memories) of life for a 6 year old during this time. Acknowledging Jewish suffering alongside your own does not diminish it but shares it to make it more universal. Stanke was from Kaunas.

Another building of value includes the Catholic church Of All Saints, another pretty baroque church, with high bell towers, this time dating from the 17th century.

Royal Quarter and Castle

Cathedral Square (Lower Castle)

Following Didžioji/Pilies north from Town Hall Square, you will arrive at Cathedral Square. This is the heart of the Lithuanian Nation and the location of its most sacred monuments. Walking tours start from this location, not far from where the statue of Grand Duke Gediminas is located. Flanking the square you have stately buildings such as the Grand Hotel Kempinski Vilnius and to the east a hill on which the old castle of Vilnius, now but one tower, stands. At the north of the complex you have a the New Arsenal, now the National Museum of Lithuania and a museum of Applied Arts and Design as well as a lift at the top of the castle.

The South of the square includes the Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania on the eastern flank and the cathedral to the west. The Palace of the Grand Dukes serves as a history museum and is a replica of the 16th century palace that once stood here. It was once considered to be the lower castle and was part of the castle complex. The cathedral is strange as the bell tower is not attached to the main neoclassical structure. In fact it is a 57 meter high, 19th century addition, with panoramic views of the church and its three roof-line statues. The main building was originally conceived in the 13th century with this edition being completed during the 18th century. The building is famous for its role in the coronations of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania. Its crypts includes many famous people from Lithuanian and Polish history including Vytautas , Saint Casimir, Alexander Jagiellon (1506), and the heart of the Polish King/Grand Duke of Lithuania Władysław IV Vasa among others. The rest of his body is buried at the Wawel Cathedral in Kraków.

Gediminas’ Tower (Upper Castle)

The remains of the castle are not particularly impressive but the view from the top is! Conceived as the last line of defense when the city walls and lower castle were breached, the upper castle was completed in the 10th century but has seen many alterations. The Teutonic Knights managed to breach the city several times but never took this part of the defensive complex. The order attacked in 1365, 1375, 1377, 1383, 1390, 1392, 1394 and 1402.

Along with the cathedral bell tower, Gediminas’ tower looks over Vilnius and is a symbol of the city. It proudly flies the Lithuanian tri-colour at its top.

Bald Hill and the Three Crosses (Kalnai Park)

Behind Gediminas tower, to the east, you will see a series of crosses atop a hill accessible by nature pathways by the Vilnia River. Begening in the early 17th century, three wood crosses were installed on the hill and they became a symbol of the city and an integral part of the city’s skyline. They represent/commemorate the legend of the mythical Franciscan Martyrs who were executed during the 14th century in Vilnius. It is unsure if this event actually happened. What I do know is that the view from the top is fantastic!

In 1916, the crosses were replaced with a concrete representation as the wood crosses kept having to be replaced every few years due to rot and were eventually banned by the Tsarist authorities due to a collapse. Unfortunately this statue was destroyed by the soviets in 1950. In its place a new monument was unveiled in 1989.

This is all part of Kalnai Park, a large nature reserve encompassing the bald hill and table hill behind it. It is rumoured that Gediminas is buried somewhere in this park.

Užupis

Overview of the District.

Užupis was the heart of the city’s Jewish life, built on a hill above a bend in the Vilnia river, it is a world apart from the baroque city that it is attached to. Unfortunately, as mentioned in the History section, all the city’s Jews were brutally slain and the empty buildings left to rot well though the 1980’s. The abandoned structures became hangouts for squatters and prostitutes. Starting with the 1990 the district became a hangout for artist as the newfound freedoms of independence allowed a boom in new forms of self expression. Although the area has cleaned up a lot since then, it still has that bohemian spirit. Today it is a hipster like entity called the Republic of Užupis, a very Lithuanian styled joke that started in 1998 when the “Republic” was declared on April 1st (April Fools!). If you want a laugh reed the young republic’s constitution and its touching and/or nonsensical 41 articles in the next section. Famous Uzupians include Felix Dzerzhinsky, (Iron Felix), a soviet revolutionary, Artūras Zuokas, a former mayor, Konstanty Ildefons Gałczyński a polish painter and Mikalojus Konstantinas Čiurlionis, a famous Lithuanian painter and composer!

The republic has its own currency, president, cabinet of ministers, an anthem, and the above mentioned constitution. Furthermore it once had an army of 11 men but it has since been disbanded! The playfull vibe of the district gives it its unique character.

Constitution of Užupis

1. Everyone has the right to live by the River Vilnelė, and the River Vilnelė has the right to flow by everyone.
2. Everyone has the right to hot water, heating in winter and a tiled roof.
3. Everyone has the right to die, but this is not an obligation.
4. Everyone has the right to make mistakes.
5. Everyone has the right to be unique.
6. Everyone has the right to love.
7. Everyone has the right not to be loved, but not necessarily.
8. Everyone has the right to be undistinguished and unknown.
9. Everyone has the right to idle.
10. Everyone has the right to love and take care of the cat.
11. Everyone has the right to look after the dog until one of them dies.
12. A dog has the right to be a dog.
13. A cat is not obliged to love its owner, but must help in time of nee[d].
14. Sometimes everyone has the right to be unaware of their duties.
15. Everyone has the right to be in doubt, but this is not an obligation.
16. Everyone has the right to be happy.
17. Everyone has the right to be unhappy.
18. Everyone has the right to be silent.
19. Everyone has the right to have faith.
20. No one has the right to violence.
21. Everyone has the right to appreciate their unimportance. [In Lithuanian this reads Everyone has the right to realize his negligibility and magnificence.]
22. No one has the right to have a design on eternity.
23. Everyone has the right to understand.
24. Everyone has the right to understand nothing.
25. Everyone has the right to be of any nationality.
26. Everyone has the right to celebrate or not celebrate their birthday.
27. Everyone shall remember their name.
28. Everyone may share what they possess.
29. No one can share what they do not possess.
30. Everyone has the right to have brothers, sisters and parents.
31. Everyone may be independent.
32. Everyone is responsible for their freedom.
33. Everyone has the right to cry.
34. Everyone has the right to be misunderstood.
35. No one has the right to make another person guilty.
36. Everyone has the right to be individual.
37. Everyone has the right to have no rights.
38. Everyone has the right to not to be afraid.
39. Do not defeat.
40. Do not fight back.
41. Do not surrender.

A graphical representation of the constitution can be found on Paupio street!

Things to do in Uzupis (including the famous statues!)

The district is known primarily for its gratify clad dive bars, art galleries and cafe’s but also for its long enshrined cultural and artistic heritage. Crossing over the Vilnia river from the Orthodox Cathedral in the Old Town is a bridge, here you will start down Užupio, the main street of Uzupis (If you continue along along a towpath longing the river from the bridge, you will eventually hit the St. Francis of Assisi and get a great picture from along the riverbank). Walking down Užupio from the bridge, will soon hit the first landmark, a small triangular square hosting the Angel of Užupis. This pretty statue of Gabriel, commissioned in 2002, replaced the original joke egg sculpture that once adorned the pillar. It is now a symbol of the district!

Speaking of statues, the above mentioned bridge has a restaurant that connects to the towpath called Užupio kavinė. If you sit down for a beer and look across the river at the stone retaining wall on the opposite bank you will see the Užupis Mermaid. This one is very easy to miss. One statue that I struggled to find was the egg that once adorned the pillar. It has actually been moved from its original location and it took me forever to find it. It can be found it google by typing in Margutis (Easter Egg). The Lithuanian peasantry have long had ties to Easter eggs and have beautifully painted designs as you can see here. The sculpture has bow been decorated and is very colourful. Its new location is just north of town hall square near the Catholic church Of All Saints.

As you walk along Uzupio street, you will notice ruinous, graffiti clad, alleys going in both north and south near the Stranitsa computer shop. The northern alley going toward the Vilina river pathway towards the hill of three crosses and the second to one of the cultural attractions of note include the church of Vilnius St. Bartholomew the Apostle. Dating from 1778, it may be a diminutive in size but I find it to be very pretty!

The further into the district the dingier and more sparsely populated the streets become, althoug some serious gentrification has started to happen. Near the Vilnius Uzupis Gymnasium, you will find a pathway to the north leading to Altana Hill, for a fantastic view of the city. To the south-east, tucked away, you will find the Bernardine Cemetery. This scenic (and ruinous) cemetery was mostly completed during the mid 19th century and seems to be sinking into the mossy ground. You will aslo find a memorial to the jewish cemetery that was destroyed by the soviets.

The North Shore (The Business District)

Just north of the old town, across the Neris River you will find a cluster of modern glass buildings. This is the business district of the city containing office towers, shopping malls and intentional hotels. Although the look of the area has changed for the better in recent years the urban form of the area is still poor in my humble opinion. The large open pedestrian spaces still feel stuck in a strange soviet mall type feel and the area lacks charm at the ground level. In my opinion it is a part of the city best observed from far,

Life Outside of the Historic Core

In my humble opinion there are two main places to visit outside of the historic city, although both happen to be in opposite directions of each other. The first, located west of the city is the Vilnius TV Tower and the second, located to the east is a massive park/nature reserve on outskirts of the city by the name of Belmontas.

Vilnius TV Tower

This soviet monstrosity was constructed in the 1980 and was the site of an important part of the December Events, the democratic uprising against the USSR, after the Soviet invasion of the Baltic States due their re-establishment. Soviet troops stormed the capital as well as other urban center, tanks on the streets. When they made it to the TV Tower where citizens had gathered the Russians fired upon them causing casualties. A monument to the lives lost can be found this TV tower and a small museum can be found in the horrid outlying building in front of it that hosts a pretty statue. A walk though the building will give you a chance to take in the brutalist fixtures of the area but also features an observation deck & cafe 165 meters above the ground. This will give the viewer a fantastic view of the surrounding forests.

Belmontas

This suburban nature reserve, sandwiched in the forested hills between the rail lines and highway east of the city, is a fantastic place to escape the city on a sunny day. The almost-urban park is centered around a restored 1838 mill and features an ethnographic look at rural Lithuania during the 19th century. The complex is now a commercial success with hotels pubs and restaurants. The main building is built on a scenic bend of the Vilnia river and a cafe is built along one of its waterfall.

For those looking for a hike, the Pūčkorių Atodanga, an outcropping on the hills off the highway will give you a fantastic view of the wooded valley below. Overall it remind me of Gatineau Park near the capital city of Ottawa in Canada.

Beer Scene and Nightlife

Lithuania is known for its active craft beer scenes and I will venture that Vilnius has one of the best craft beer scenes in Europe, if not the world. As you will see in my Baltic Beers, Lithuanian macro’s feature prominently in my esteem, partucularly the Utenos Porteris (Porter) and anything from Vilniaus Alus. The later is a small, yet growing, brewer bearing the Iron wolf of Vilna in its branding. Other popular brands include Svyturys, Kalnapilis and Tauras. Although all of these are thoroughly drinkable, I recommend trying the city’s micro brews to be truly blown away.

As for the nightlife, Vilnius has an active nightly patio scene spread throughout the old town and with the occasional bar located outside the city walls. The city’s youth are always enjoying the summer nights and the old town is quite lively. The largest concentration of bars are located along Vilnius Avenue, from Saint Catherine’s Church to the triangular split at Islandijos avenue where the bars clump together before petering down on both Vilniaus and Islandijos ave. Here you will find the legendary Alchemikas Pub, but there are plenty of good spots outside this street. One one occasion my good friend John and I, decided to check out an awesome bar called “Who Hit John”, since I couldn’t resist the name! For those looking for a loungier place with a view, check out the Skybar on the north shore of the city. Although the nightlife in the business quarter is not lively, the view of the old town from the top is well worth it! For those looking for dive bars or a cafe atmosphere I recommend checking out bohemian Uzupis.

The city streets are very safe at night with much of that due to tasteful uplifting and streetlamps illuminating the way and the fact that there are always people out. I found Vilnius to be very safe for travelers, even at night.

Conclusion

Vilnius is a world class city, and should not under any circumstance be skipped by travellers to the Baltic region. Although tucked into a corner of South-Eastern Lithuania, the city is an essential link to the Baltic state and its illustrious past. The city of Vytautus, his body interred in the crypt of the city’s cathedral, has come a long way since the dreary days of communism and it did not have to sacrifice its identity to do so!

Come witness why the Baroque character of the city looks best illuminated at night wandering home from a late night on the city’s bar scene!