Viljandi – A Ruined Ordensburg in the Heart of Livonia
Ordensburg may seem like a foreign name to most, but back in the medieval ages, you couldn’t make your way though old Livonia without running into one. Viljandi was one of these Ordensburgs, a German name for crusader’s castles that were constructed in the Baltic Region by monastic orders such as the Teutonic Knights and the Livonian Brothers of the Sword. Little is left of this word but the beautiful ruins of the past surrounded by the serene village of ethnic Estonians that has sprung up around it.
Table of Contents
A Bus Ride Through the Countryside
The long ride down from Tallinn wasn’t so bad after all! It was a sunny day and the view of the Estonian countryside was stunning . The rapeseed fields bloom their yellow flowers, an endless see of yellow!
The Village of Viljandi
The unassuming town of Viljandi may seem quaint and peaceful today, but has been at the heart of the Baltic Crusades. An Estonian hillfort has been recorded in this location as early as 1154 with a settlement emerging shortly after. In 1211 the settlement was raided by German Crusaders belonging to the Livonian Brotherhood of the Sword and captured in 1223. The following year, construction began on the present castle built overtop the ruins of the Estonian construction. The Livonian territories were eventually incorporated in the Teutonic Order, but retained a large level of autonomy as part of the new Livonian Order.
From the hillfort you can see that the settlement is built on Lake Viljandi, an active summer destination for Estonian youth and bringing in tourism revenue for the town.
The town you see today developed on the north side of the castle during the 13th century. Its most remarkable monument is the Church of St. John (Jaani), rumored to be the oldest church in Estonia.
Originally part of a much larger abbey complex, it was built in 1472 and once belonged to Franciscan Friars. The complex was destroyed in 1560 but the church remains. Not far from the church you will find Song Square, a place for gathering for the Estonian people during the Song and Dance Festival. Just footsteps away is the Viljandi Manor House, once home to the German estate owners of the Livonian city.
Although simple, there is something deceptively beautiful about the whole thing. Restored in the 17th century it was shut down by the soviets and used as a warehouse. These days it serves as a concert venue and as a relic of times past in today’s secular republic.
The village consists of many beautiful old wood houses. Amongst them you will find the Kondase Keskus, a native Estonian art museum displaying the works of Paul Kondas, a local man known for his paintings.
During the 14th century, the town was important stop for merchants on their way to Russia and back thus Viljandi was invited (and joined) the Hanseatic League, a northern European/Baltic trading confederation.
The structures happen to be very colorful and are known for their elaborate wood detailing, especially around the door frames, the doors themselves and the roof gables.
Well kept cobblestone streets can be found in the area closest to the castle are a joy to walk across, make sure to stop at the square near the town hall. The masonry water tower found in the square can be climber for a phenomenal view of the town.
Before you leave baron walk north of the estate manor house. Here you will find the beautiful St. Paul’s church, a devine mix of masonry and stone. Built in Tudor Gothic on land donated by baron Ungern-Stenberg, the estate owner, it was consecrated in 1866.
Viljandi Castle
German for Viljandi, Fellin castle, was one of the biggest defensive structures in the Baltic Region. As mentioned above it was founded in the 13th century a 200-years. As you approach the castle mound its main gate, one of the few complete parts of the old fortification will greet you through the trees.
To its sides is a deep moat, with the remnants of a connecting wall. The castle was composed of two main parts, an outer sanctum separated from the town by the moat, walls and castle hill itself and an upper castle with high walls.
One of the most dramatic moments in the castle history came in 1481 when Ivan III of Russia (Ivan the Great, not Ivan the Terrible) laid siege to the castle, but could not take it.
In the courtyard you will find a giant swing that is usually quite busy as groups walk back and forth on it!
Viljandi began to decline during the Livonian War between the Swedish Empire (this time allied with its perpetual frenemy Poland-Lithuania) and the burgeoning Russian Empire. Although the Russians were pushed out of Livonia by the coalition in 1560 the castle was seizing and demolished along with the town.
The romantic ruins you see today are a result of several military actions even after this first destruction. Placards found around the site will show you just how large this castle really was. The ruins are but a fragment of their former self.
At the center of the castle, where a large section of wall still stands you will find a courtyard with a large number of benches installed along with a stage. This venue is often used for summer plays.
From the ruins you will get a wonderful view of the lake.
During the course of the Polish–Russian War (part of the deluge that hampered the Polish-Lithuanian commonwealth) , the town and the the partially rebuilt castle were again destroyed. It passed to the Swedish rule in the 17th century and then to Russia after the events of the Great Northern War.
Many of the buildings foundations have been excavated giving you a small sense of life in the castle.
On the southern side of the castle you will find the Viljandi Suspension Bridge, a 19th century relic. The pedestrian structure is made of steel suspension cables with cast iron cabling, completed by a company in Riga in 1879. In 1931, the lord of the (Tarvastu) Manor in town Karl von Mensenkampf erected the structure so he and his family could access the castle ruins. Yet the structure was also a favorite of the locals and spans a full 50meters over a 15m gorge. Enjoy a walk across it!
Conclusion
Enjoy your stay at the castle! Make sure to walk its perimeter to truly appreciate how large the castle really was. There may be little left but in a sense, the ruin has retained a charm that persist to this day. The addition of the town itself makes for a perfect day trip!
