Vienna – Old Imperial Capital and the City of Music
Slow down, you crazy child
And take the phone off the hook and disappear for awhile
It’s all right, you can afford to lose a day or two
When will you realize, Vienna waits for you?
Vienna, Billy Joel – The Stranger (1977)
Vienna, the capital of Austria, is a place that has enchanted the traveller since the heyday of the imperial court. It is a city that is grand, elegant and even imposing. However, for all of its charms, it not my favourite place in the world. As mentioned in my earlier post about the city of Ljublijana, I wanted to explore the city after hearing the Billy Joel song Vienna from his 1977 Album “The Stranger”. In it the narrator relates a message about enjoying life and not rushing forward too quickly. The perfect place for this is obviously Vienna according to the narrator. I never got that impression from Vienna, it is a bustling modern city but one that I still enjoyed.
2022 Update
Upon my 2022 revisiting of the city I feel like I have a better understanding of Vienna. The city is massive and there is so much to see and do that it can be easy to forget why makes Vienna so great. This is one of the great places in the world to waste you time in. Spend a day lounging in the cafe’s, talking to people or attend an impromptu concert in the park. Maybe Billy Joel’s understood something about Vienna when he came to visit his estranged father here, a something that I had missed. Slow down you crazy child is right, I was too ambitious as a juvenile and maybe Vienna is a city that one has to slow down to enjoy!
Table of Contents
- A Little Geography
- A Little History
- What to do in Vienna
- Musicians and Composers from Vienna
- Day Trips
- Where to Stay
- Nightlife and Conclusion
A Little Geography
Vienna, the modern capital of Austria, was once the center of the German speaking world. The city stands at the crossroads of Europe sitting in the center of the Vienna Basin, an area of rich farmland on the shores of the Danube River. This stretch of Austria is located near both the Slovak and Hungarian borders and was at the forefront of the Ottoman expansion into Europe.
Although the city is located on the Danube, the city is not strongly associated with the river like Budapest is. The city center is located nearly 8 kilometers west from it and did not expand onto the eastern shore until late in it’s history. The mighty river once had many branches radiating in all directions, with one of these branches flowing near the city center. Due to excessive flooding, emperor Franz Joseph I instituted a plan to regulate river flow. Most branches were redirected to a large straight section that we see today and the large branch near the city center was narrowed. It is now called the Danube canal, a rather misleading name. This canal separates Leopoldstadt from central Vienna. The straightened Danube river area of the city is most strongly associated with the modern, businesslike, Vienna. I just call it drab, grey and boring. If you want to visit you won’t find much of interest although central Leopoldstadt, closer to the city center has a charming mix of older and newer structures.
A Little History
Antiquity
The area has been occupied since 500BC, when Celtic tribes established themselves in this part of the Danubian Basin but a proper settlement was not constructed until 15BC when the Romans established a small town called Vindobona. The settlement was defensive in nature and was built to protect the empire from barbarian incursions originating to the north. These barbarians, the Germanic people would establish themselves in Austria after the fall of the empire. This was not a particularly important settlement by any means.
Medieval City
The house of Babenburg settled around Vienna in 976 after being given the land as a county by the Holy Roman Emperor. The territory was referred to as the Eastern March and at the time stood at the border of the Holy Roman Empire. This land was mostly depopulated and coincided with the present day Wachau Valley, hence at first, the city of Vienna was an afterthought as most of the Austrian population lived up the river in cities such as Krems. The house would form the Duchy of Austria and eventually in 1146, the family residence was moved from Melk to Vienna.
The house of Badenburg eventually gave way to the house of Habsburg and the city would gain prominence in lockstep with the fortunes of that Dynasty. One could even say that Vienna and the Habsburgs were synonymous, at one point the power of the Habsburgs was growing so large that many through of Vienna as the unofficial capital of the Holy Roman Empire. In 1485, the city was briefly occupied by the Kingdom of Hungary under the reign of Matthias Corvinus.
Sieges of Vienna and the Renaissance
The Ottoman attempts to take Vienna marked a turning of the tide for Christendom’s long protracted battle against Islamic expansionism in Europe. In 1529, a few years after the death of the king of Hungary at the Battle of Mohács, the first siege of Vienna took place. After the battle of Mohacs, Hungary had slid into civil war and both Austria and the Ottoman empire, under Suleiman the Magnificent, were locked in a battle for control of the former Kingdom’s territory. Things looked bleak for Austria when the Ottomans turned their sights from Hungarian lands to theirs, surrounding the capital. Heavily outnumbered, the Austrian resistance was headquartered in St. Stephen’s Cathedral and laid their best plans. The battle was a small victory for the Austrian side, but with the Ottomans still in business the conflict would be prolonged into another one-hundred and fifty years of bitter skirmishes and raids. The conflict would not be resolved until the Second Siege of Vienna in 1683, after that battle, fighting with the Ottomans receded away from the capital to an ever expanding Austrian border territory to the south. Never again would Vienna be threatened in the same manner.
During the second Ottoman attempt on Vienna, the city was besieged for two months before being relieved by an army from the Polish Lithuanian Commonwealth. This lead to the Battle of Vienna the most significant christian victory over Islam since Charles de Martel at Tours in 732. In this battle the Holy Roman Empire led by Austria linked up with their Polish Allies. The large mass of troops on both sides ensured that it is considered one of the largest battles of all time. Although outnumbered, the christian forces crushed the Ottomans, setting the stage for the later Austrian dominance of south-eastern Europe. Legend has it that the pastry, the croissant, was created after the battle and is based on the Ottoman crescent. Hence the Croissant Viennoise was born.
With the Ottomans being driven out of the Balkans by Austrian forces the capital grew rapidly. It would soon be the era of Beethoven in Vienna, and the fortifications that had once served the city so well were demolished. It was the end of an era and the beginning of a new one, more glorious than the last.
Austro-Hungarian Capital
In 1867 Austro-Hungarian Empire was formed by the duel crown compromise where Vienna remained the capital of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. This period coincides with Vienna’s dominance in Europe’s cultural scene. As mentioned earlier in the geography section, Franz Joseph redirected the Danube and set his sights on expanding the city. The old city walls, bastions and other fortifications were turned into public spaces and wide boulevards. The city became the leading center for classical music in Europe and developed a thriving Jewish community. The waltz was a popular dance and many balls were held at court. On the surface it was an era of true municipal progress, Vienna glowed and was the capital of an empire! Under the surface things a simmering ethnic tensions indicated that things were different than they seemed.
Although leading figures, like the mayor of the city Karl Lueger, espoused social progress, they were also rabid anti-Semites who despised the wealthy Jewish community of Vienna, foreshadowing tragic events that would take place later in the 20th century. Furthermore the Hungarians yearned for independence and Franz Joseph was an absolutist, hated by the minorities of the empire. This deadly cocktail would begin its slow march with the death of a young reforming Archduke called Franz Ferdinand visiting Sarajevo in 1914. At least Vienna had Johann Strauss and the Opera to entertain it during this era!
Interesting fact: Adolf Hitler, Josip Broz, Leon Trotsky, Tito, Sigmund Freud and Joseph Stalin all lived in Vienna near each other and frequented the same coffeehouses.
Two World Wars, A Cold War and Modern Austria
The 20th century saw the development of radical ideologies in Vienna. The First World War may have shattered the Empire but did not affect the city beyond supply shortages. It was an external event that would lead the city to be labelled “Red Vienna”, that of the Russian Revolution. Emboldened, socialist and communists inspired by the event would take over the city’s intellectual and political scenes. Furthermore, the end of the war brought many subconscious changes in the mentality of its inhabitants. Vienna had lost its place as the capital of an Empire losing Hungary (and central Europe) along with its Balkan possessions. Socialist militias roamed the streets and clashed with right wing paramilitary groups. Most democratic groups were banned and the city fell into dictatorship.
In 1938 Hitler’s Anschluss joined Austria to Germany trapping it into a political union. From here the daily torment of the Jews began. Hitler was generally well received in Austria and due to his financing of fascist groups in Austria. Italy had once helped suppress these groups but Mussolini’s alliance with Hitler had changed things. Popular resistance was beaten down by allies before his arrival and, in fact, the vote to join both countries in union was rigged by armed militias patrolling the streets. The Second World War saw the complete destruction of the Jewish community with camps built right inside the city limits. The end of the war saw Vienna bombed frequently, both in 1944 and 1945.
After the war, the city was split between the four powers, much like Berlin. The Russians would not leave until 1955 when it was decided that Austria would remain neutral in the Cold War. Public spaces were reopened and historic structures rebuilt. The city would re-become the international center it once was.
What to do in Vienna
Walking the Ring Road
The Ringstrasse (ring road) encircles the Innere Stadt (Inner City). This public building project takes the shape of the old city fortifications and includes many of Vienna’s most attractive public spaces and buildings. This is a must visit for first time visitor to the city. The first city walls of Vienna were completely paid for by the ransom the Austrian rulers exerted for the release of Richard “The Lion Heart” of England. Richard was briefly imprisoned at nearby Durnstein in the Wachau Valley. The original walls were improved on many times before becoming obsolete and being seen a barrier to urban development. Although the creation of boulevards as a public space could encourage public gatherings it was not lost on Franz Joseph that it would also make wannabe revolutionaries easy targets for his artillery.
Today the ring road serves as a major arterial for vehicles, pedestrians, cyclists and the tram system. At several locations along the boulevard you will find stations of Vienna’s underground subway system, a convenient way of getting around the city.
Prominent buildings include the classically styled Austrian parliament (it is clear that this building was meant to emulate ancient Athens), the Flemish styled Rathouse (City Hall), The Gothic Votivkirche (church) as well as a wide variety of palaces. The Votivkirche in particular is worth exploring. The church was built by funds raised by the brother of Franz Joseph I as a thanks to god for sparing his brother’s life after a failed assassination attempt.
Many of the palatial buildings found in this district now host public institutions and their (formally private) gardens now serve as city parks. A good example of this grand public transformation of former imperial grounds is the land around the Neue Burg Palace. Near this Palace you can also find the Kunsthistorisches Museum (Habsburg Art Collection) and the Natural History Museum. These twin structures are imposing in their own right. On the opposite side of the ring road you will find MuseumsQuartier, a large quarter with many public institutions.
The ring road is also host to many musical and theatrical institutions such as the Burgtheater and the Vienna State Opera House.
Lastly make sure not to miss the Karlskirche, this 18th century baroque church is considered one of the finest buildings in a city full of stunning monuments. Usually you will find many of the city’s youth congregating towards the fountain in front of this church in the evening. The adjoining park right outside the Karlsplatz metro station is also a great public square. If you are lucky there will usually be a live band playing in the park and pup up bars serving drinks. If you have time the Sigmund Freud Museum can be found just outside the ring road.
City Center
Vienna’s city center is easily accessible via public transportation. Connections to the Vienna underground subway system can be found in the center of the inner city near St. Steven’s cathedral. Alternatively the city center can be accessed via the tram system that runs along the ring road, from there it is just a short walk to the cathedral. Although some vehicular streets exist, most of the old town is pedestrianized and the city is marked by an active cafe culture, one that is considered a central part of the civic culture. The story of the founding of the coffee houses in Vienna dates from the second siege of Vienna. It involves the capture of bags of coffee by the Polish-Hapsburg army and the gifting of several bags of the Turkish mix to a Polish officer. This man would add sugar and mix it with the coffee. After starting a coffee house, he served the beloved drink we now call Viennese Coffee. The lively coffee house culture spilled over to many other cities of the empire, as far as the Polish (now Ukrainian) city of Lviv. Much of the intellectual life in the city can be traced back to these famous houses, such as Cafe Central.
No trip to Vienna is complete without a visit to St. Stephan’s cathedral. Located at the very center of the old town and part of a lively town square (Stephansplatz), you should start your exploration of the city here. The structure was constructed in 1160, Romanesque style. The building would see several major additions in the 14th and 15th centuries, including the impressive Gothic tower. The rooftop of this cathedral sports some stunning roof tiles, including zig zag mosaics allotting over 230000 pieces.
The inside of the cathedral is equally as impressive. Here you can find one of the finest medieval church interiors in Europe. The vaulted ceiling is magnificent and the detailed relief offers some comical religious elements. As an example of the latter, pay special attention to finding the Jesus with a Toothache statue. Apart from the usual relics kept in cathedral St. Stephan’s hosts some famous bodies. You can find the body of Holy Roman Emperor Frederick III in a large red tomb as well as one of the greatest military leaders of all time, Eugene of Savoy. The grave of Frederik is made of red stone, with some of the detailing seen as the best work of the medieval ages. As for Eugene, this Frenchman came to the court of the Austrian Emperor as a young man after being rejected for military service by the French Emperor. He would lead the Austrian Armies alongside his British ally John Churchill to outstanding victories during the war of Spanish Succession against the French. Later, he would lead Austrian troops against the Ottomans throughout the Balkans (You will see his name in many of my posts). Underneath the church lies a crypt that holds many Habsburg dukes of Austria and the cathedral bishops. When the Habsburgs became kings their bodies would be interned in the Royal Crypt of Vienna, outside the cathedral.
Not far west from St. Stephan’s you will find St. Peter’s Catholic Church. This smaller domed structure is built in baroque style and is surrounded on all sides by Vienna’s finest neoclassical buildings, access to the church is afforded through the narrow pedestrian streets around it. Just in front of this church you will find Graben Street a major shopping street and likely the most famous in the city. It is fully pedestrianized and features stunning architecture and a small shrine to the victims of the pest (Bubonic Plague). To the east of St. Stephan’s you will find the former home of Mozart, now a museum.
The second most important site in the inner ring of Vienna is the baroque styled Hofburg. This is the main palace of the Habsburgs and contains the imperial treasury, a silver museum and the kaisergruft or imperial crypt. In front of the Hofburg is the Michaelerplatz, a public space displaying roman ruins of the old city wall of antiquity. If you make it to the imperial crypt and are looking for the body of my main man Franz Ferdinand, he is not buried with the rest of his family. Franz, the reformer, married a woman of a lower status and was forced to give up much of his royal lineage – including the status of his children. As a final indignity they told him that his wife would not be allowed to be buried in the crypt. A year before he passed away in Sarajevo he asked in his will to buried with his wife in Artstetten Castle in the Wachau Valley, as to spare her one last indignity at the hand of his family. After his assassination the royal pair were paraded around Vienna before being buried together.
If you still have it in you to visit another church, travel to the west side of the inner city and visit Catholic Church Maria am Gestade. This small Gothic church is one of the last few pieces of medieval Vienna remaining. The church itself is very narrow and squished between the surrounding buildings, it is a nice place to visit when you want to get away from the more touristy (and crowded!) sections of Vienna as the church is often empty. Near the church you can find the Holocaust memorial and one of the last remains of the former city bastions. On top of the bastion is a city block where you can find Beethoven’s former apartment.
Major Palaces
One thing you must absolutely do while in Vienna is to visit the Habsburg Palaces. If you visit the city on a tight itinerary and only have the time for one of these complexes make it the magnificent Schonbrunn Palace but if you are a real history buff, Belvedere will offer just as much and it is my personal preferred location.
Liechtenstein Garden Palace
This palace is owned by the Princely Family of Liechtenstein, from the tiny European country of Liechtenstein. It was once a public art museum that showcased the family collection but due to low visitor numbers private tours must now be booked. The building dates from 1700.
Belvedere Palace
This 18th century baroque palace was once the home of Prince Eugene of Savoy. Built on a diminutive hill overlooking the inner city, this palace consists of two main structures; The upper Palace at the top of the hill and the lower palace at the bottom.From this palace you will be blessed with superb view of the city! The view could defiantly rival that found at Schönbrunn Palace with much less crowds.
The palaces are joined by a long stretch of gardens. After his death the Palace swapped hands to the Hapsburg monarch Maria Theresa. Around the time of her purchase she transitioned into an enlightened monarch and opened the grounds to the public – displaying a large art collection. Maria never lived on the grounds of the Palace.
Finally in 1896, Franz Joseph made the Belvedere the home of Franz Ferdinand, his son an heir to the Austrian throne. The gallery was still open to the public but decided to showcase some modern art to contrast with the existing collection, this was meant to showcase Austrian Succession style pieces (I find this modernist style to be ugly). The Belvedere still operates as a museum/gallery today. Despite being smaller then Schönbrunn, it is by far my favorite!
Schönbrunn Palace
The most famous of Vienna’s palaces, Schonbrunn was the home of Habsburg monarchs. It also happens to be the palace located furthest outside of the inner city. As such I would recommend taking public transportation to get here, the tram will take you directly to the doors of the palace and would be the best option. Built on an old royal hunting ground for an Austrian Holy Roman Emperor, the complex encompasses a massive area. The gardens include a zoo, an orangery, a chapel, a theater and fake roman ruins. The palace consists of a main palace at street level and a structure called the “The Gloriette” located on a hill overlooking the palace. The Gloriette offers an amazing view of the city and was commissioned by Maria Theresa to showcase the glory of Austria. As for the main palace, the exterior is built in neoclassical and the interior in baroque. The complex is immense, with a total of 1441 rooms. It now serves as a museum.
Naschmarkt, Mariahilfer and the South-East
There is also plenty to see outside of the immediate core. In the south east of the city, not far from the previously mentioned Belvedere Palace (my favorite!) you will find the massive Wien Hbf (central station) and the Museum of Military History, a massive complex with many artifacts. Another point of intrest is Mariahilfer Street, one of the major shopping arteries in the city. Easily accessible via the Neubaugasse, it is a great way to kill a few hours.
If you look around closely you can also find hidden courtyards and alleys. The one below leads down to one of my favorite areas in the city, the Naschmarkt.
The Naschmarkt, is a 16th century food market with over 100 vendors. Honestly its a foodie paradise! Located in the center of a busy boulevards located between grad buildings it is a perfect place to spend an afternoon.
Musicians and Composers from Vienna
Vienna is known throughout the world for its musical vitality, here a few classical musicians that have called the city home.
- Ludwig van Beethoven
- Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart
- Johannes Brahms
- Antonio Salieri
- Eduard Strauss
- Johann Strauss I – III
Day Trips
Wachau Valley
During the medieval ages, Vienna renewed its ties with the Celtic people, specifically those of Ireland. The Irish built many important cloisters in Vienna as well as the nearby Wachau Valley along the Danube river. The monk, Saint Colman of Ireland is buried in the Wachau’s Melk Abbey.
Where to Stay
If you are a hosteler, I recommend a stay at Wombat’s City Hostel Vienna Naschmarkt. Yes it is a chain of hostels but its location cant be beat. You will be just outside the city center and have access to grocery stores and many restaurants in the market. It is also ideally located along the city’s mass transit lines.
Nightlife and Conclusion
Once you get past the thrill of visiting the countless palaces and the endless stream of museums, you might hear from the locals on the street that Vienna is a city without nightlife. Liars! Vienna is a bustling metropolis and as the second largest German city in the world it radiates culture. Indulge your craving for social time with the refined and, dare I say it, thriving coffee culture, the center of Austria’s intellectual elite. If you are like me and want to indulge Vienna’s seedier side, I recommend trying a bar called the Travel Shack. It is a student and travellers bar and I remember karaoke night being a lot of fun! Although, I do warn you, it is quite a ways outside of the inner city. If you would rather have a chill time, take in a night of music or chill around the terraces of the city especially around the Naschmarkt or the Karlskirche.
Although I once preferred other cities in Austria to Vienna, I would recommend giving the city at least a few days to absorb the local culture. In my experience Vienna is so large and bursting at the seams with things to do that once should take the time to actually enjoy it and not just rush through. If anything I recommend multiple short stays or a long one just to take the time to absorb it all at a reasonable pace. Just remember that the real Austria lies outside Vienna, for example I strongly recommend Graz as it is much friendlier and has a unique mid sized city vibe not found in Vienna.
