Valga/Valka – A Visit to the Land of the Forest Brothers
Located on the border between two nations, it may not seem that Valga and Valka are different cities. “One Town, Two Countries”, the old Livonian town of Walk’s has only ever been one even through occupation by the Livonian Order of the Sword, The Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, Sweden and Russian. It would not be until 1920 that the town would be split in half between Estonia and Latvia. With integration into the European Union, the border between both cities virtually vanished and the twin communities were made once again. Today the two towns even share a basketball team BC Valga-Valka and solidarity is strong!
Table of Contents
Crossing Over
Crossing the border at Valka/Valga is as easy as 1,2,3. Since integration into the EU, the old border posts have been shuttered and only a roadsign indicates that you have left the country.
In Town
There is little really to see in town. Since the object of my visit was the military museum, I made my way through the city center as quickly as possible. Valka is a strangle place, the city feels like a giant suburb, the Soviet era construction overshadowing the occasional historic structures. There are few structures of note but hte Valga Jaani kirik (St. John’s Church) is rather impressive. Dating from 1816, is is as close as you will find to a section of town with some density. Here you will find a handful of wooden structures, worthy of a historic core. Furthermore you will find a pretty red painted building that now serves as the visitors museum. Just east of this space you will find a large greennspace that is home to Valga Keskraamatukogu (library) and the rather underwhelming Valga city museum.
When done exploring the town, double back on the main avenue into the city (Valga-Suurekortsi) and check out a traditional Latvian restoration called Lilli. The pink house has a wonderful back porch and serves an amazing German schnitzel. The thick Latvian styled bread comes with a fantastic homemade butter and I highly recommend it!
Valga Militaarmuuseum
The object of my visit, this strange private military collection is one well worth visiting. Located on the outskirts of the city, in the suburbs not far from the above mentioned Lilli, it is a Soviet era complex with a large yard.
The Valga Militaarmuuseu is not so much a museum as it is an open air theme park with the largest collection of military artifacts in the Baltics, including many items from neighbouring Latvia! The outdoor area is littered with military vehicles, fire engines, armoured vehicles, artillery pieces and a host of other goodies. There is little signage and that that exist is not particularly helpful.
One of these goodies was Mi-8 helicopter, if I recall these were use rescue operations for the Estonian airforce in the early days of the 1990’s Republic.
Some of the artillery pieces have a special history. Used for a 2002 film about the Estonian War of Independence (1918-1920) along with many other pieces stored in the museum.
The more impressive items outside of the helicopter include a host of amour vehicles from several different eras.
Another favourite of mine was this anti aircraft gun.
The main hall of the museum details the history of Estonia’s history since its first shot at independence in 1920. Specific emphasis is put on the difficult period of Soviet occupation beginning in 1940. During this time fear was a way of life an many people were deported to the gulag being replaced by Russian citizens and immigrant. Life in Latvia was difficult, bread lines reigned supreme and jeans (shipped from abroad) were seen as a luxury. At the start of the occupation, the forests of old Livonia in both Latvia and Estonia were home to a militant resistant group called the Forest brothers. Holed up in their earthen bunkers these survivalists cause severe damage to the Soviets for the next 20 years though guerrilla warfare. A popular exhibit is that of a Forest Brothers’ recreated bunker where adults are offered a shot of the Forest Brothers’ moonshine and a smoked fat sandwich with onion. Inside you will find the largest collection of weapons in Estonia.
My favourite display is that of a miniature Stalin surrounded by officers signing documents. It is obviously sarcastic the table is filled with vodka bottles and one of the officers has a random piece of fish on his newspaper.
