Trogir – A Little Venice in the Heart of Croatia
Trogir is the little cousin of Split. While the former city is a sprawling metropolis, the later retains it’s charm as a small medieval center, almost undisturbed by modern life (with the exception of a fleet of modern pleasure craft idling in the harbour).
Table of Contents
Geography
Trogir is a Croatian city located just north of Split, the capital of Dalmatia (a Croatia province). The city built on a small island between the (larger) island of Čiovo and the mainland. The narrow channels separating it from land serve as a natural harbour and morning point for ships, thus making Trogir island an ideal location for a city.
A Brief history
The history of the town mirrors that of nearby Split. The settlement, called Tragurion, was founded by Greeks from the nearby island of Vis but was quickly overshadowed by Roman Salona. The city did benefit from the destruction of the former as many citizens migrated to Trogir. Croatian tribes moved into the area soon after.
Following the fall of Rome the city spent time as a dependency of either the Byzantine Empire or of the Croatian Kingdom. In 1123 the city is sacked by seaborne Saracens (Muslims) and is helped to recover by Venice. In 1242 Béla IV of Hungary would take refuge in Trogir after his Capital of Esztergom was sacked by the mongols, he would move his royal court to Budapest.
In 1420 a formal alliance with Venice was concluded and the city incorporated along with Split into the Venetian Republic. It is under the rule of Venice the the beautiful old town that you see today was conceived. The rest of the city’s history is similar to Split, with the city passing from Austria, to Yugoslavia and finally to an independent Croatian state.
A Day In Trogir
My day in Trogir began on a bus from Split, where I was staying. The bus connection from Trogir to Split will drop you off on the mainland just outside Puerta de la Tierra, the land facing gate of the city. You will cross the narrow channel to Trogir via a stone bridge and enter the walled city through the gate. This channel is the narrowest of the two and is home to many small ships.
When inside the walls, the first building of importance that you will see the City Museum. Although small, this institution is a great place to start your day.
When you are done in the museum it is time to enjoy the pedestrianized old town renowned for its pristine Venetian architecture. Your next stop should be the Pope John Paul II Square, located just to the south of the Puerta de la Tierra. This is the main square of the city and contains the most important buildings. This includes the city Loggia of Trogir, with its distinctive clocktower. The 13th century building served as the administrative center of the city during Venetian times, as such court cases and public announcement where held here. To the side of this building is the Rectors palace and the church of John the Baptist.
Behind the palace is the most famous building in Trogir, the Cathedral of St. Lawrence. This 11th century building began construction after the previous church was destroyed by the Saracens.
While walking through the narrow streets don’t miss the Church of St. Peter and the monastery of St. Nicholas and St. Dominic.
No visit to the city is complete without a stroll around the seafront. If you are hungry for lunch this would be a great place to stop!
When you are done with your food, head to the most western point on the island. Here you will find some of the reminders of the city defences including the waterfront castle named Kamerlengo’s tower along with the Tower of St. Mark.
The fortress dates from the 15th century and is a product of the Venetian administration. Although it may not look like much, the main tower is as sturdy as any other built in larger structures or complexes. Today you can climb to the top for a view of the city.
For those looking for good beaches cross over the bridge to Čiovo island. Along the outline of the island you will find sandy shores to dip your cobblestone weary feet in.
Conclusion
Trogir may be quaint but due to its proximity to Split, I would recommend staying in the larger city and just taking a bus into town. Unfortunately, Trogir has a lack of things to do, beyond a day’s worth of exploring, that being said it is a wonderful destination and if you have the luxury of having a boat this would be the place to park it.
