Trenčín – Rome’s Central European Frontier Town
The eighth largest municipality in a country of smaller urban centers, I did not expect more then a sleepy Western Slovak town. After all the city was a backwater during Roman times, serving as the northernmost outpost of that empire in Central Europe. Yet Trenčín, a city with a massive castle that can be seen for miles, was destined to impress. Powered by a urban renewal, the old town under the castle is pulsing with activity. I came to see a castle… I stayed for the atmosphere!
Table of Contents
Geography
Located in the northern quadrant of Western Slovakia, where the mighty Váh river flows, the town sits an idyllic position. Trenčín occupies the foothills of the northern edge of the White Carpathians, neighbor of the Small Carpathians, on a strait section of the previously mentioned river. To the east you will find the Czech border with the region of Moravia presenting itself in the distance. To the north you will find more impressive mountains as you near the Slovak city of Žilina.
As you can imagine the city is located far above sea level, at 262 metres (860 ft).
A Brief History
This city has a fascinating industry that long predates its most recent communist era industrial scars. Here is the story behind the castle!
Antiquity, Samo’s Empire and Great Moravia
As previously mentioned the site was occupied since antiquity. It is thought that this may have been the capital of Samo’s Empire, a precursor state to the Great Moravian Empire, the ancestors to the Slovaks. A castle likely existed at this location during the time of Great Moravia, but little is known about life in Trencin at this time.
Hungary and the Medieval Era
The disintegration of Great Moravia, under pressure from the Magyars (Hungarians), in the early tenth century would bring about the end of Slovak independence. Yet despite the loss of most southern territories during the Magyar invasions of the 9th century, Trencin would only enter the Hungarian orbit in 1017, under Stephen I. Due to it being one of the few stone castles in mostly flat Hungarian lands, the settlement would escape destruction from the Mongol invasion of 1241.
The castle would later be gifted to Matúš Čák a powerful magnate, who would rise in rebellion against the crown. Due to its proximity to many international borders the city would become host to the Treaty of Trentschin between Bohemia, Hungary, and Poland was signed in the city in 1335. It cemented Silesia into the crown territory of Bohemia.
The standard of the city had improved by the late medieval ages and in 1324 the inhabitants were freed from paying tolls. It would ascend to a free royal town by 1412.
Ottoman Threat and the Habsburg Empire
The Hungarian state would collapse after the Battle of Mohács in 1526, were it was soundly defeated at the hands of the Ottoman Empire. What little was left was absorbed by the Hapsburg run Austrian Empire. The next three centuries would be difficult for the city as it became embroiled in conflict.
The city was taken in 1528 by imperial Austrian troops during a revolt by rival János Szapolyai, a claimant to the throne of Hungary. The Ottomans also tried to take the city over the 17th century, but were met with failure.
The Kuruc Hungarian revolts from 1703 to 1711, against the Austrian crown resulted in town being burned down in 1708, and the Battle of Trenčín taking place nearby. Two years later, in 1710, the plague took many more inhabitants. It was burned down again in 1790.
Industrialization and the Modern Era
The town would not begin its recovery until the industrial era (19th century) as Trenčín became connected by railways to Žilina, a major industrial center, and Bratislava, the old capital of Upper Hungary. Textiles, agriculture and machine industries were represented in this new economy.
After World War I the city became part of the new state of Czechoslovakia ending decades of repression towards the Slovak people. As a prelude to the Second World War, Hitler took the Czech lands for his own and installed a puppet state called the First Slovak Republic. This newfound independence came at the cost of collaboration with Nazi Germany and ended when Trenčín was captured by a combined Romanian and Soviet forces in April 1945.
Communism saw the forced industrialization of many parts of rural Slovakia, geared towards heavy polluting industries. Since independence, the city is seeing success in the tourism industry with the historical center of the city being restored early in this revitalization process.
Things to do Trenčín
Of course the attraction everyone desires to see is the imposing Trencin castle, yet the region has lots to offer the potential traveler. From imposing fortresses, to quaint villages nested in the mountain, this is one of the most impressive regions of Slovakia.
Yet before we get to those types of activities contained in the “Day Trip” section, here are a few things to do directly in town!
The Riverfront
The construction of a major roadway/highway during the communist years destroyed the connection between the old town and the water. For those of you who want a great view of the castle you should head to the west bank of the Vah, to see the structure in all its glory.
For those seeking a relaxed evening, I recommend going down to the east side of the Vah river, for a walk. Not only is the castle stunning, being beautifully illuminated in the evening, but you can stop by a pop-up bar for a quick pint. Its name is the Bufet pri Lodenici. On a warm night, there is little better then having a beer, as the river flows by, while being under the shadow of a massive castle. The latter being a hulking beast that will live on long after you are dead!
Old Town
The old town of Trenčín is built around a long oval shaped square called Mierové námestie. Clustered around it are the towns most renowned buildings and monuments.
Headlining the square are the St. Francis Xavier church and the Mestská veža/Dolná brána (Gate Tower). The later building always you to climb up and view the city from above. This square holds the majority of the towns restaurants, shops and patios. It is also home to its own plague column.
To the south of the square you will find the Trenčín Synagogue, a beautiful domed structure and the interesting fountain of the vodyanoy Valentín, representing a vodyanoy which is a water spirit!
For those spending the night in town, Mierové námestie square with its elegant trees is a great place to grab a beer and food after visiting the castle!
Of course at the tip of the rock formation you will find the Hotel Elisabeth, as previously mentioned. It is one of the prettier structures in town and really stands out being built along the rock.
While hiking up to the castle, you will be able to visit the distinctive yellow colored Kostol Narodenia Panny Márie (Church of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary) to overlooks the old town. Originally conceived in the 13t century, and oft renovated over the years (most recently in the 20th century), it is a pleasant structure.
From this church you will have a sublime view of the old town, with the green hills surrounding it!
Castle Hill
Climbing up to the castle gates, one cannot help but take in the rugged majesty of such a place. Perched high up above the city this is one of Europe’s great castles.
Although the castle has seen occupation since time immemorial, it has seen many changes since Great Moravia and 11th century Hungary. The partial reconstruction you see today dates from the 16th and 17th centuries when the residence served as a royal palace. It fell into ruin by 1790 however.
With its position above the river, it is no wonder that the castle became the residence of Matthew III Csák, the Hungarian nobleman known “Lord of the river Váh and the Tatra Mountains”.
The structure is comprised of a lower castle with a second tower structure serving as an upper castle/donjon. Look out for the Hunger Tower, a cylindrical structure and the clocktower.
This upper castle is home to much of the archeological activity and museums spread amongst three clustered palaces: Louis Palace (14th century), Barbara Palace (15th century) and Zapolya Palace(15th / 16th centuries). You will also find the ruined foundations of a Romanesque church.
Of course, the upper castle’s dungeon is more iconic then the smaller palaces, those structures being hidden behind the thick fortress walls. You can see the donjon building from any part of this city, with its iconic triangular roofs being visible from any angle.
The southern fortifications are a little different. For their part they involve a deep trench and wall overlooking the southern overlook’s woods. This is the most vulnerable side, hence the depth of the stone cut.
Day Trips
The hilly area surrounding Trenčín is filled with a wonderful assortment of Castles, here are but a few.
Čachtice Castle
The famous Elisabeth Bathory castle, with its own blood red wine, is one of the most picturesque of Slovakia’s ruined hillforts. For more information click here.
Beckov Castle
Due south of Trencin is the oft ignored Beckov castle. It is much larger then Bathory castle, and sits in a less remote location, but I suppose not having a lady of the castle who bathes in blood makes it a little less popular the its Bathory counterpart. For more information click here.
Bojnice Castle (Castle of Spirits)
One of the most remarkable palaces in Slovakia, this remarkable romantic home could rival most in Europe. For more information click here.
Where to Stay?
For those looking to sleepover in the lap of Luxury, I recommend the stunning Hotel Elizabeth located at the base of the fortress, where the rockface looks out over the river. For cheaper options you can stay at a Penzion, one of many cheap hotels located throughout the city, Many of them offer private rooms and a short walk to the town’s attractions.
Conclusion
Despite being a small city, I was very impressed with Trenčín. The city has undergone a careful revitalization and the streets feel lively and festive, especially in the summer months. While much of rural Slovakia is sleepy, Trenčín is pulsing with life, with busy patios in storefronts lurking under the shadow of a massive castle that would loom over almost anything. This is an impressive place!
