Trebinje – A Rowdy Wedding in a Quiet Market Town
Table of Contents
Mostar to Trebinje:
Winding through the mountains south of Mostar on a rickety bus, one can say that Herzegovina’s countryside is stunning. Ancient castles and towers, unmarked on most maps, seem to cling to every hill. In the valleys, blue streams separate the craggy hills from each other and flourishing vineyards fill its valleys. After a long slow ride to Trebinje, the twist and turns churning the stomach, I was ready to put my feet back on the ground. Although it had been a beautiful ride, the sun was shining, and I was aching to walk around.
We approached the city from afar by way of a roadway elevated high above the city. From the vantage point the red roofs of the town were nestled in a bowl shape depression between rugged hills. With the sharp glare of the sun these hills, long eroded by wind and rain, almost had a purple tinge to them. Arriving in town, we were pleasantly surprised by a clean, modern, white and red bus station located just 600m south-west of the old town. The surrounding area was well maintained with new roads and sidewalks. I had a good feeling about this place. As an aside this is the cleanest place I have visited in the Balkans the people here take great pride in their city.
A Little Geography:
With a population just over 31 000 people, this city may not appear as a large center to most but it is by far the most important city in south-eastern Herzegovina. The ethnically Serb town is known by its moto “the city of the sun and platan trees”. With a proximity to major tourist centers as Dubronik (Croatia), Kotor (Montenegro) and Mostar (Bosnia), it is a wonder that the city has not been overrun by tourists.
The city is divided in half by the Trebišnjica river. On the east side is the new town with the Gračanica church, built on top of a hill dominating the skyline. On the west side sits the old town with its charming old world feel.
A Brief History:
The city was first mentioned during the Byzantine Era as a Serb settled area, located on the caravan stop between Kotor and Dubrovnik. In the medieval period, the town became part of the independent Serbian state. When Belgrade fell to the Ottomans it was incorporated into the Bosnian kingdom under a Serb king. In 1482 the town was captured by the Ottomans. During this period mosques, a main square, a castle and city walls were constructed. Another landmark structure the Arslanagić Bridge was constructed in the 16th century.
The burning of St. Sava’s relics in 1594 (See Belgrade) provoked the Banat Uprising. In Herzegovina, the center of Ottoman resistance was the Tvrdoš Monastery not far from Trebinje. But without foreign support the revolt was doomed to fail, it was only a matter of time. It was not to be the last time the unruly Serbs of Trebinje rebelled, they did so again in 1875 during the Herzegovina Uprising.
The Austrians took control of Bosnia in 1878 and reinforced the hills with many forts. Under their rule the city would modernize and become prosperous. These improvements continued during Yugoslav times. Luckily the city was spared the savagery instilled on most of the Balkans during the second world war.
During the Bosnian War in 1991, the city was used as a base by Serb forces (JNA) to attack Dubrovnik. Bosniak (Musilm) residents were expelled and mosques were destroyed. Today the city is a peaceful summer retreat for many Serbs in Bosnia. The Sunday market is as lively as ever and the climate is agreeable.
A Walk About Town:
Leaving the bus station, my dad and I walked east across the river towards to new town. While walking we saw a large contingent of cars driving through town, waving Serbian flags and celebrating wildly. We were not sure what the occasion was but they seemed to be having a blast.
We continued across the river encountering the same contingent of cars several times as they did several celebratory circles around the city. Looking up at Crkvina hill and seeing the orthodox church sitting upon it we decided to head towards it, beers could wait. After getting some Burek to snack on we began our ascent up the hill, it is then that I understood what the fuss was about. The same cars passed us again, waving at us, we waved back only to see a bride in one of the cars, it was a wedding at the top of the hill.
The church built in byzantine style, like many of the Serbian churches in neighbouring Kosovo, is dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The structure is a relatively new addition to the city as I found out. Built in 1999 and consecrated in 2000, the structure was the gift a Chicago businessman and built on the site of an old medieval church. Buried here is a favourite of patriotic Serbs the poet Jovan Dučić, born in Trebinje in 1871. He moved to Mostar and established himself as a teacher. He opened the patriotic paper called Zora and got himself in trouble with Austrian authorities. This forced him to leave the country of his birth, he would later return when Yugoslavia was formed at the end of WW1 but was exiled again in 1941, narrowly escaping the wrath of Nazi Germany. He died in Gary, Indiana never having the chance to return home. His last wish was for his body to be returned to Trebinje, this was accomplished in 2000 with the consecration of the cathedral.
Besides the cathedral complex there is amphitheater built into the hill with a panoramic view of the valley below. The buildings here may be new but could trick the average traveler into thinking they are old. This public space is beautiful and has won many urban design awards.
Returning down the hill we made our way north toward the river crossing. This is the location of the Arslanagić bridge, one of the prettiest ottoman bridges in a country full of them. The stream is shallow here and a light blue hue marks the river bed. Walking back towards the old town we hit a water wheel. The region is known for its beautiful mills and this is just one of many. If you are so inclined there is also a large Olympic sized outdoor swimming pool right around the corner.
Now nearing the old town we could see a series of picture-perfect buildings intertwined with the crumbling city walls. This is the best view of the city by and large. The most prominent building is the Herzegovina Museum, with its beige walls.
Inside the old town, the cafes are full and the market atmosphere is swinging. Grab a drink and soak up the sunny weather, I did, sipping on an ice cold Niksicko beer on a terrace. If you are a wine lover do try the local stuff, the climate is perfect for growing grapes and you won’t regret your choice. Walk around the main square, Trg Slobode, and sit in the shade of the old chestnut trees. The cobblestone streets are home to a fresh vegetable market. Its not that there is so much to see here but immerse yourself in the festive atmosphere and you won’t regret your visit.
If you venture north-east from here you may find something less pleasant. A small section of the city has been emptied of people. The buildings look damaged as if the inhabitants left in a hurry. In such a pretty place it is easy to forget that the recent past is not so hidden. This area used to house the Bosniak community. They were chased from the town in the 90’s and very few have returned. At the top of a hill is an old dilapidated Austro-Hungarian fortress dating from 1888. It is currently surrounded by a barbed wire fence but I heard a rumor that the property may be up for redevelopment. From this hill you can see a beautiful orthodox shrine on a hill to the north.
Before you leave Trebinje don’t forget to visit outside of the city. There is much to do here outside old town including visiting ancient monasteries, hilltop fortresses, sublime wineries and monasteries. (some of witch even double as wineries!)
Conclusion:
For most travelers, a trip to Bosnia involves Sarajevo and Mostar before venturing into the coastal areas of Croatia or Montenegro. I, for my part, can guarantee that you will enjoy towns like Trebinje, Tuzla, Jajce, Travnik and Banja Luka just as much. There are all kinds of beautiful people here, smiling as they pass by, but I know their secret. This place is a little slice of heaven and one would be happy to die here. How could they not with the benign Herzegovinan climate. Maybe Jovan Dučić was onto something, Herzegovina is a long was from Gary, Indiana.
