Towns, Castle and Churches of Central Transylvania – An Unforgettable Journey to Sighișoara, Birtan and Beyond
After my visit to the Transylvanian city of Sibiu, I found myself wandering the Romanian countryside in a rental car. It was a sunny day and there was no highway in sight. The two-lane main roads gave way to narrow country roads where progress was slow – a refreshing prospect as I wanted to enjoy the beauty of the countryside. While on these roads I shared the right of way with flocks of sheep, a heard of cows and multiple horse drawn cart, hauling large bails of hay. With all this chaos you would thing that the roads would be in bad shape, but they were in great condition.
The appeal of getting off the beaten path in Romania is to experience the daily life of the Transylvanian peasantry. Up early in the morning and plowing till late at night, I did not see them rest, spending all day in the fields under the menacing gaze of the warm summer sun. While driving, be careful of the Gypsy children. Then will run out in front of your car hoping to garner some change and will not move until you give in or outlast them. Although tourism has become more prevalent in recent years, this region is still begging to be explored. Do not be surprised if locals give you curious looks.
Table of Contents
History of Transylvania
Dacio-Roman Antiquity
Transylvania was the center of a civilization called the Dacians, the original people of Romania. That territory fell to Roman invasion in 106A.D by hand of Emperor Trajan. This region of Europe was known for its rich mineral deposits and it is easy to see why the iron hungry Romans had an interest in it. Under Emperor Aurelian, legionnaires abandoned their outposts and towns to retreat across the Danube, using the river as a natural barrier against the barbarians. This process was completed by 275A.D and left Dacia unprotected. During the decline and eventual fall of Rome, barbarian incursions swept across Dacia (Visigoths, Huns, Avars, Slavs and others) looting and destroying what they could before hitting the empire head on. It is estimated that much of the urban civilian population of Dacia may have followed the legions across the Danube.
Hungarian and Saxon – Medieval Era
In the 9th century a tribe called the Magyars (at this time still pagan) settled in modern day Transylvania. These were the ancestors of the later day Hungarians. Under Steven I, this tribe converted to Christianity and became a recognized kingdom (1003 A.D). The Hungarians rule over the region was contested briefly by the Bulgarian Empire under Simeon I.
With Mongol incursions into Europe becoming more commonplace King Géza II of Hungary invited Saxon Germans settlers into Transylvania. From the 12th century onward theses “Transylvanian Saxons” would reinforce Hungary’s eastern frontier. In 1241, the Tartar Mongols devastated Transylvania, as well as the rest of Hungary. This prompted the building of “citadel towns” along with a Saxon staple unique to Transylvania, the fortified church. These churches are built with thick walls, narrow arrow slits, battlements and other defensive features. The Saxons were given special privileges and controlled Transylvania on behalf of Hungary through a council called the Universitas Saxorum.
At the time Transylvania was called Siebenbürgen, German for the “The Seven Citadels”. These were: Bistriţa (Bistritz), Braşov (Kronstadt), Cluj (Klausenburg), Mediaş (Mediasch), Sebes (Mühlbach), Sibiu (Hermannstadt) and Sighişoara (Schassburg).
Ottoman, Austrian and Romanian Era’s
In 1526, the Hungarians lost the battle of Mohacs to the Ottomans, dissolving the Kingdom of Hungary. Transylvania limped on as part of a breakaway Eastern Hungarian Kingdom called the Principality of Transylvania but was eventually reduced to a subservient vassalage by the Ottoman Empire. The protestant reformation hit the region hard and most ethnic Hungarians and germans converted to Calvinism. It is important to note that the ethnic Romanians, the Vlach, had no political rights during this time. It is in the time of the principality where where important families such as the Báthory made their names
After the battle of Vienna in 1683, the Turks were defeated and the crown lands of Hungary slowly passed into Austrian hands. Unhappy with Austrian rule the territory revolted in 1848 and joined the Hungarian revolutionaries. This revolution was crushed by Russia, a friend of the Austrian Imperialists, but the result of this event made for large changes in the political administration of the former Hungarian Lands. Furthermore during this time Romanians began to advocate for their own political rights within the Austrian system.
During the First World War, Romania joined the Allied Side. The Battle of Transylvania, a Romanian offensive in Transylvania took place. Although the battle resulted in a loss for the Romania it paved the way for their acquisition of Transylvania at the treaty of Versailles. The collapse of Austria ended Hungarian supremacy in Transylvania, Ethnic Romanians rose up and seized territory for the Romanian Crown. No effort was made to allow some Hungarian parts of the territory to join their mother country and this fueled ethnic resentment between Hungarians and Romanians. The Second World War saw the replacement of the Romanian Monarchy with a fascist government supplanted by a a royalist resistance and finally a fall to the communism imposed by soviet “liberators”. In turn fears of this new political system precipitated a mass emigration of Transylvanian Saxons. During the Romanian Revolution in 1989, ethnic clashes between Romanians and Hungarians took places in the city of Targu Mures.
Mediaș
What I pictured was a dying market town, what I got was a stunning fortified city with a bustling city center. Located north of the city of Sibiu, Medias is the second largest city in the county of Sibiu.
I parked my car in a suburban area not far to the old town. Getting out of my car, I noticed an elderly woman tending to her garden. She seemed to be giving me a mistrustful look, as she was obviously not used to seeing strangers, so I made haste to the old town. Most of the city wall that once encircled the town can still be visited and the old city gates will greet you into the touristic area.
At the center of the town stands the St. Margaret church. Built in 1414, the settlement grew around this massive structure. In front of this building, you have a plaza dedicated to king King Ferdinand I, the second monarch of Romania. Many pretty buildings are located on this square, as well as a small green space. The pretty building were once host to a total of 33 guilds! An impressive amount for such a small place. Like many Saxon churches, to access the building you have to take a covered walkway, up some stairs before getting inside. Here, you will notice a strong odour of sawn lumber. Marvel at the vaulted ceiling and the strained glass as this fortified church has hardly changed since its inception.
As I got back in my car to leave, i received a friendly wave. The grouchy lady from earlier had recognized me and gave me a smile. I smiled back, and waved. It serves me right for making assumptions, she seemed quite nice in retrospect!
Biertan
The most impressive of the fortified churches, Biertan can only be accessed via a narrow country road. This minuscule settlement has become a place of worship and gathering for the dispersed Transylvanian Saxon community. After visiting, it is no wonder why! The second you see the spires of the massive fortified church rising up from the emerald green hills you will be awestruck.
When you arrive in the town center, you will find a central plaza with a great view of the church. This village dates from 1283 with the arrival of the Saxons. They constructed a market here and built the fortified church that you see today.
Construction on the building began in 1468 and was completed in 1524 but after the medieval ages the town declined in importance as other Transylvanian settlements such as Sibiu and Medias took the lead.
Access to the church is provided by a long wooded walkway. The Gothic building pays homage to the Virgin Mary and has impressive high vaulted ceilings. In later years the church was converted to the protestant religion but a tower was kept for the prayer of the few practising Catholics. While inside keep an eye out for the beautiful headstones located inside the church.
From the top of the tower you will get a magnificent view of this little town nestled in the green hills of Transylvania.
Sighișoara
Parking in an attractive suburban area of the city I made haste towards the citadel city sprawled before me. Spires located at regular intervals rise from the hills of the old town, an impossible sight to miss.
The city of Sighișoara was established in 1191 by Transylvanian Saxons. The settlement was quickly populated by craftsman and merchants and became an important guild town. The old town itself is built on the remnants of an older Roman fort called Castrum Sex and the new town, or suburbs were built into the valley below. If looking at the city from one of the surrounding hills you will notice a long thumb shaped hill. A fortified church is located on the tallest part of that hill, then from there the hill then steps down to half the height of the church. This area is flat and contains the old town, it can be recognized by its distinctive clock-tower. From there you have the rest of the city built around the base of the hill. A small river runs though the valley and a distinctive dome of a large Romanian orthodox church (Holy Trinity Church) dominates the landscape.
Any visit to Sighișoara will start by walking up though the gates of the old town. This will afford you a view of Saxon defensive architecture. Depending on where you parked you will either the city though the clock tower gate or though a gatehouse on the opposite side. The clock tower was built in the 14th century and was the main entrance-way to the city. Today you can climb up the tower for a view of the old town.
It is obvious by the quality of the buildings that this was one of the most important central European settlements of the medieval ages. At one point the city boasted 15 guild halls and 20 handicraft branches. Vlad Dracul (Vlad II), the father of Dracula (Vlad III better known as Vlad the Impaler) lived in the city while he was exiled from his territory in Wallachia. His son Dracula was also born in the city.
That very same three story building that Vlad was born in is now a popular restaurant with tourists.
Other buildings of note in the old town include the Biserica Mănăstirii, a Gothic Saxon monastery that was later converted into a church. The old town does not have many attractions per say but is a wonderful way to kill a day. The scenic cobblestone streets and colourful Saxon architecture will keep you enthralled for hours. At night, the city comes alive with a terrific display of uplighting.
To access the area above the old town you will have to take a wood covered staircase up to the fortified church.
At the top of the hill you can explore the 13th century Church dedicated to St. Nicholas. It has been expanded, remodeled and reconstructed several times since then. The inside of the church displays religious artwork and paintings on the walls. In the basement you can find the only crypt in a Saxon church. The masonry tombs holds many important members of the community while the grounds surrounding the church are part of an eerie Transylvanian cemetery.
The plot of land is quite large and you should reserve an hour to explore it. From the graves look back at the church. You will see two towers flanking the structure and a short wall connecting to the other defenses. As you can see the church was an integral part the town defensive structures.
Târgu Mureș
Targu Mures has long been a center for the Hungarian minority. The city was established sometime in the 13th century as a Hungarian Market town. The city is built around a citadel with a fortified church at its center. Formerly a Franciscan church stood here but it was destroyed during the Tartar invasion of 1241. The Franciscan friars were in charge of maintaining this new church until the reformation when they were forced out by the Hungarians, who were newly converted to the protestant faith and had no use for a catholic order.
The complex is built around a fortified church, the oldest religious institution in the city, located in the south-west corner of the urban area. Around the church is laid out a long rectangular wall with many towers, within this enclose you will find many of the castles administrative buildings.
The fortress has been recently renovated but underneath the sheen traces of its long and brutal history can be seen, including the stones of ruined building foundations pocking out of the lawn. The citadel, as the city, has been rebuilt multiple times after destruction by foreign powers. For example, the fortress was destroyed in 1601 by the Austrian general Giorgio Basta, an enemy of both the Romanian and Hungarian people. The city was destroyed in 1658 by the Turks and ensuing raids by both sides greatly delayed the development of the city.
The grounds include an archeology museum and a strange glass dome – still under construction at the time of my visit. Just outside the walls you will find the buildings of the Petru Maior University.
As mentioned before, the city is multi-ethnic and multi-religious. As such it should be surprise that the architecture reflects this diversity. Romanian orthodox domes intertwine with baroque and Saxon belfry’s. For those interested there is even a brightly painted synagogue on Strada Aurel Filimon.
The downtown of the city is built around two boulevards that span the length of the Piața (Market) Trandafirilor, an impressive civic space lined by some of the prettiest buildings in Transylvania. On the north side you will find the Theatre Plaza, a public space built in front of the strange communist era national theater. Trandafirilor functions as a linear park today with trees, flowers and views of the stunning Romanian cathedral.
Along Trandafirilor Park you will find architectural styles ranging from Vienna Succession and Art Nouveau to Baroque and Neo-Wallachian. Many museums can be found on this street including the Ethnographic and Folklore Museum and the Târgu Mureș Palace of Culture. The later building is a former palace that depicts scenes of Hungarian Epics.
Next to the palace of culture, is the City Hall with its distinctive green roof and the Prefecture Tower.
Anchoring the western end of the city you will find the Annunciation Cathedral. Built in 1936 in splendid style, it served the Greek catholic community. In 1948 the communists banned the Greek catholic congregation and confiscated the building. It has still not been returned.
Saschiz
Located just west of Sighișoara, this 14th century village contains a small ruined castle as well as one of the prettiness fortified churches in Transylvania. The structure consists of a massive stone tower and a chapel dedicated to St. Stephen. Colourful low rise buildings surround the church, it is located on a slight hill above the rest of the town. Today little remains of the Saxon community in this town.
Rupea
The citadel at Rupea has been inhabited since the stone age. It is said that the citadel is the location where the legendary Dacian king Decebalus took his own life after his defeat at the hands of the Romans. I not had planned on visiting this magnificent work of military engineering but I saw in from the roadway as had I was driving from Tagu Mures to Brasov. A beacon in the night, you could not help to be impressed by this serpentine construction.
Next time I visit Romania I will expand on this section, I wish I had had more time.
