Tomar – A Stunning Crusader’s Blueprint
Tomar happens to be one of my favourite places in Portugal, even to the consternation of many locals I spoke to in Lisbon, many of whom had not heard of the town. The city is renowned for its military architecture but possesses a stunning old town that ranks among the most underrated in Portugal. It is even rumoured to hold hidden Templar treasure… possibly even the Holy Grail! Welcome to a place away from the hustle and bustle of the traditional touristic hubs of the country.
Table of Contents
- Geography
- A Brief History
- What to do in Tomar?
- Conclusion
Geography
Tomar, a city of central Portugal, has the distinction of being part of the Ribatejo one of the most fertile regions of the city. The city is built on the river Tagus while the castle sits on a tall hill overlooking the city. The region is know for its olive and fig trees but I saw plenty of citrus plants from the train from Lisbon on my way to the city.
A Brief History
Although occupied since antiquity, this citadel city is mostly associated with that of the early Portuguese Empire and the Knights Templar.
Antiquity and Moorish Occupation
During roman times a small settlement by the name of Sellium existed here. Little is known of this settlement but the medieval city of Tomar lies above it. Like much of Spain and Portugal, the region fell to the Arab Moors for a period of time.
Kingdom of Portugal
During the Reconquista, the city fell to the Portuguese Kings, located in the north of the country. This event roughly translating to “the reconquest” denotes the retaking of formerly Christian territories in the Iberian peninsula that were at the rime occupied by the Moors, Muslims originating from North Africa. This process was started by Christians Kingdoms in the north of Spain/Portugal that had survived the original invasions. The Portuguese were the first to begin this process (beating out Spain), from their base in the small city of Guimaraes.
Knights Templar
In 1160 the kingdom would transfer sovereignty of the town to the Knights Templar, a powerful crusading order that would become a banking giant of the continent before its eventual downfall. Tomar would become the headquarters of the order in Portugal. The choice of location for the headquarters was based on geomancy, a magic of divine interpretation of numbers and natural events/patterns. The surroundings of the city is composed of seven hills, like Jerusalem or Rome (and even Lisbon), something that attracted the eye of the geomancers.
In 1190, the Templars faced their first test. Besieged by the Moors, the first headmaster of the order, a 72 year old Gualdim Pais led the resistance.
Order of Christ
By 1314, King Phillip IV of France amassed a fortune of debt, much of it owed to the Templar Order and the Jewish community. By this time the organization had gathered a large fortune in assets from their banking empire, so naturally the French King wanted to get his hands on it. Holding the Pope prisoner, he forced the dissolution of the Templar Order (the French king also took out his greedy rage on the Jewish community!). Seeing how much wealth the French King was able to plunder from the Templars, several countries followed suit, yet this did not include Portugal! Due to the order’s help expanding/defending the Kingdom of Portugal against the Moors (Muslims) during Reconquista, King Dinis was sympathetic to their plight. Instead of persecution, he instead had their possessions transferred to the a new shell company, The Order of Christ. As such the Templars were able to retain their control of Tomar.
The Order gained renewed importance when Prince Henry the Navigator was made head of the organization, tying itself to the crown. Portuguese Caravels even carried the Portuguese Cross, on their sails, the large square red cross that is the symbol of the order. Through the knowledge gained from the royal exploration expeditions, the order was able to expand its trading network and reach. As a testament to the power of the Order, new lands were under the authority of Tomar until 1514. During this era the swamps around the river were drained and the city grew considerably in both wealth and population. In 1438, the brother of Henry, king Duarte of Portugal fled a plague epidemic in Lisbon and died the city.
Eventually the Order was granted to king Manuel I and the Pope relinquishing his claims of influence over the organization. This ingenious king was the inventor of Manueline Architecture, the ornate renaissance style of Portugal. This style is often referenced to as “Late Gothic”. He would be the last to remodel the convent and his influence can still be seen today.
The End of An Era
The Spanish inquisition brought many Sheperdic Jews to the city. These intelligent and productive people brought great wealth to the city, the last wave of true importance the city would see. Unfortunately due to pressure from Spain, the Portugese King could no longer afford his policy of tolerance. The Jews were force to convert or leave, thus becoming a group called the New Christians (yet these “Christians” were still persecuted) .
With the loss of its Jewery, the city lost much of its skilled trades and intellectual life, suffering a swift decline in standing. A second blow would soon spell the end for the city and its most illustrious institution, the Order of Christ. The Dissolution of monasteries took place in 1834, the Portuguese state, helped itself to the confiscating religious goods and property, the Order was not exempt. The city was invaded by France during the Napoleonic wars but was swiftly liberated by Portugal and its English ally.
One saving grace was the development of a small textile industry during the 18th century and beyond, keeping the town afloat.
What to do in Tomar?
Tomar was the last Templar Town to be commissioned for construction and played an instrumental part in Henry The Navigator’s overseas exploration. The town grew to be one of the richest in the land before the expulsion of the Jewish community. The castle itself served as a model of the many crusader castles in the Holy Land that would follow it, a true blueprint of a building! As such you will find much to see and do for a city of its diminutive size.
A Quick Note:
If you have a chance to walk through the graveyard, or to ask for peoples names, you will notice a lot of New Christians names. One of the few mementos of the city’s Jewish past!
Arrival In Tomar
When you first step off the train, you will see a large religious building as well as a parking lot with both an administrative building and memorial cross. The back end of the former houses the Museu does fosforos aquiles de mota Lima, essentially a match boxes museum, hosting thousands of boxes from around the world. At the front of this buildings, you will find the stunning Sao Fransisco church. Up on the mountain behind it you will see the castle in the distance. Welcome to Tomar! My first walk though the town revealed pretty pink flowers on the trees, a sign of the advancing springtime!
On My Way to the Castle and the Convent of Christ
After a short section of walk though the town, you can turn north and follow the base of the hill to the castle itself. Doing so you will pass the Seven hills National Park, a large public hedge garden offering a pathway to the UNESCO registered castle itself along the outer wall. Alternatively you can access the top via a road, Avenida Dr. Vieira Guimarães, just a few blocks north. The Convent is defended by the thick perimeter castle walls, forming a protective curtain around the religious institution.
Castle Courtyard
No matter the way you choose to go up, you will enter the castle via a double gated ramp, letting you into the high outer wall that guards the convent at the interior of the castle. When you get past the gate you will emerge in a courtyard.
At the end of this courtyard is is an interesting round tower, one of the most recognizable structures that is part of the castle/convent. A nearby door will allow you inside where you can purchase a ticket to visit the complex. The young lady selling the tickets asked me if I was a student, clearly out of my mind, I replied that I was no longer one, although I could pass for one based on my youthful looks. She repeated the question, finally clueing in, I answered yes this time and she gave me the student discount! Did I already mention that the Portuguese are very nice people!?
Templar Rotunda Church
As one may deduct from the ornate rectangular piece attached to the back of the rotunda, the circular tower is actually part of the original Templar church. Built in the later half of the 12th century, its model may have been a combination of the Dome of the Rock and/or the Church of the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem. The rectangular addition dates from the Manueline area, this can be deducted by the heavy use of ornamentation as opposed to the castle like defensive construction of Templar. The belltower was added by Henri the Navigator.
Cloisters and the Interior of the Rotunda
The first part of the building you will explore is a courtyard at the base of the circular church building mentioned above. Named the Cloister of the Cemetery, it was constructed in the first half of the 15th century. It is composed of alcoves, built around an open-air central area, much like many of the other courtyards built on site. This is the most intimate of castles courtyards and is my favorite space in Tomar.
In the courtyard you will see many small shrubs growing in planters, these are citrus trees! Coming from Canada I was always amazed by the quantity of these in Portugal. The walls are decorated in tiles. This was the burial site for both knights and monks of the order. For those interested in Portuguese history, you will find the Manueline era tomb of Diogo da Gama, brother Vasco da Gama.
The tour will take you around the complex with a visit to the Rotunda Church itself. Exhibits will give you a sense of the history of the place from its inception to the confiscation of religious property. For those of you who have visited Jerusalem, you will understand my reference to the church of Church of the Holy Sepulchre as mentioned earlier. The central section of the church houses the central altar, adorned by late Gothic painting and sculpture.
Also on display in the rotunda are national symbols like the crest of the Kingdom of Portugal.
Walking around the complex will also afford you a view of where the monks and knights once lived, including their banquet halls.
Continuing the tour of the complex will take you through a series of courtyards. These cloisters were built in various era’s. You can tell them apart based on their levels of ornamentation. There are a total of eight (8!) of them on site. Here are a few memorable ones
Claustro do Cemitério
This is the cloister of the cemetery mentioned above
Claustro de D. João III (Main Cloister)
The most impressive of the cloisters, due to its heavily detailed facades, it is built around a central fountain. This central cloister connects the ehole complex together and as it was built to impress. The style of architecture is Mannerist, often refereed to as “Late Renaissance”. This building is considered the best example of this type of architecture in Portugal. Four massive and beautifully crafted staircases connect the upper floors to the lower.
Claustro da Lavagem
The “washing cloister”, commissioned by Henry the Navigator, it was completed in 1433. This cloister is aptly named as it was where the monks would hang their clothing.
Claustro de Santa Bárbara
Another of Henri the Navigator’s commissions, this one is known for its recessed position along the face of the rectangular section of the Templar church.
Speaking of which the Santa Bárbara cloister is the perfect place to observe the Manueline architecture of the church.
The most beautiful of the decorations on this part of the building are located on what is called the Chapterhouse Window, a rectangular opening with vine like stone details crawling up its sides. The inside of this naive was heavily damaged by Napoleon’s troops during their careless plunder of Portugal.
Here are a few pictures of some of the other cloisters, some of which even have small hedge gardens.
Ruined Convent
One of the most interesting parts of the tour is a visit to the ruined 12th Century Convent of Christ. This building can be found in the southern part of the complex, not far from the main gate.
In the center of the building you will find the old altar along with a nice patch of grass instead of a smooth stone floor.
Outside the Castle Walls
Hermitage and Viewpoints
Outside of the castle walls you will find a few points of interest. From the Miradouro view point you will be afforded a sublime view of the river valley below as well as the hills containing the Hermitage of Tomar. From this hermitage you will actually get a better view of the city itself.
Aqueduct of Pegões.
Behind the convent you will find the Aqueduct of Pegões. This 6km behemoth features massive arches. Although construction began during the 16th century, it would not be completed until 1614
Coming Down from the Castle and Exploring the Old Town of Tomar
Taking the previously mentioned road back down the mountain and into town, you will come across the main square of the town at the base of the hill. The black and white tiled plaza is home to the Church of São João Baptista (St. John the Baptist). Constructed during the 16th century it is one of the most recognizable structures in the city. In front of the church is a statue of Gualdim Pais, the mythical Templar leader.
Past the cathedral you will find Serpa Pito Street, the main street of the old town. While it is usually busier, it had rained at the time of my visit and the street was empty. I stopped by a pub and polished off a few Superblocks, one of the larger beer brands found in the county.
While in the old town you need to check out the old Synagogue of Tomar, the best preserved temple in Portugal. Today it is host to the Abraham Zacuto Portuguese Jewish Museum, exploring the Jewish history. Abraham Zacuto was a Jewish mathematician that was advisor to king João II (John II, almost everyone in Portugal is a João lol).
Down by the river you will find a small canal. It is here that you will find the small reminders of the city’s small industrial revival. Small factories by river back out onto the canal.
Lastly you should pay a visit to the Santa Maria church on the west side of the river. Although far away from the historic center it has an important tie to the Templar Order, being their church. Built in the 13th century it is a classic rectangular Gothic building. The site is a National Monument of Portugal. Do not miss it!!!
Conclusion
Sitting in a small bar off the main street, having a Superblock (a previously mentioned Portuguese beer) and food, I had the chance to reflect on my visit. Tomar is a city that has retained much of its original character making it the perfect town to explore Templar Portugal. The town’s people seem to be quite friendly and I enjoyed my visit more then I expected. Although off the beaten path, Tomar is a city I would recommend to anyone visiting the region. I hope you have better luck finding the grail than I did!
