The Wachau Valley via the Danube – A Journey from Vienna by Rail and Boat
I had arrived in Vienna from Graz and was just about to take a quick nap when my hostel roommate walked in. We began talking and she mentioned how exhausted she was from her day trip. I asked where she had been and she mentioned the Wachau Valley. Intrigued I asked her more about it and she told me that the night before her roommate told her about a combination ticket/deal that would take you up and down the Danube. Interested I jolted down some mental notes and after reading that Richard “The Lion Heart” of England was held captive in the Valley, I decided that I would sacrifice a day for this excursion. This tour takes you along a scenic 36km route along the Danube river, known for its rolling hills, wineries, religious structures, castles and medieval history. This region of Austria is a UNESCO site, known for its natural beauty.
This post details what steps are required to embark on this journey and what stops are included/optional.
Table of Contents
- The Combination Ticket
- Departure from Vienna
- Melk
- Aggsbach
- Spitz
- Dürnstein
- Krems
- Return to Vienna
- Gallery
The Combination Ticket
This ticket can be purchased from the Austrian Federal Railways (OBB). Go to the central station Vienna to purchase the “Wachau” combination. It will include the following:
- The price of a second class rail car to Melk
- Entrance to the Melk Abbey
- Your ship fare down the Danube
- The price of a second class rail car to Vienna (from Krems)
More information will be provided about the destinations later, as part of this post. Remember both the train and boat have set departure times, leave early to enjoy the day to its fullest extent without having to rush to the train station. This trip really is a full day, so do not make diner plans for your evening in Vienna. Your ticket is valid for 36 hours so you may stop off along the way at both Spitz and Durnstein but do alert the boat crews before you do so. Speaking of which, you have the choice of two vessels; The Blue Danube or Brandner. Departure times vary so plan accordingly. A wine sample is included as part of your boat ride.
For more information on the Wachau combination ticket click here.
The Itinerary
This itinerary includes the main stopping point for the ship. And the rest of the post details the attractions along the route.
- Vienna (Departure)
- Melk
- Aggsbach
- Spitz (optional)
- Dürnstein (optional)
- Krems
- Vienna (Return)
Departure from Vienna
When arriving at the Vienna train station you can purchase your ticket either from an attendant or from one of the ticketing machines. Again, keep in mind that the train departures are fixed so make sure to manage your time accordingly. Grabbing a later train may put you on a much later boat-ride and you will waste precious afternoon hours. From the station the train will require one transfer in Saint Pölten, an important town in lower Austria. Make sure you know what platform to switch to when you arrive as you will have to take a second train the Melk.
Melk
Old Town of Melk
I arrived in the town after a short walk from the train station. The attraction of the place is surely due to the benedictine abbey of Melk but the old town was still quite enchanting. It was first mentioned as Medilica, a Slavic word for border in 831, as the land was granted to Austria as a buffer with the Hungarians and grew to become an important medieval settlement. It was granted market rights in 1227 but like the rest of the valley, Melk did not grow much after the middle ages.
The prosperity of the town has led to a wide variety of architectural styles, much of witch is displayed directly in the old town. The terraces here are a great place to grab lunch, before or after exploring the abbey. Famished I had a beer and schnitzel and enjoyed the afternoon sun.
The best view of the old town is from the Abbey but before you proceed to it make sure to check out the old town hall and the town church.
The Abbey of Melk
The abbey is built on a rock bluff overlooking the Danube river. This was the site of a previous castle castle that was replaced by the abbey when the property was gifted to the monks in 1089. The building contains the remains of the house of Bamburg, the first ruling dynasty of Austria as well well as the remains of Saint Colman, an Irish Saint. Melk abbey is the largest baroque monastery complex in Europe.
During the medieval ages the complex was considered a major center of learning and produced a vast wealth of manuscripts. The present structure is a baroque masterpiece, rebuilt in 1736 it managed to escape the dissolution of the monasteries due to its academic reputation, something it maintains to the day.
When you first arrive at the complex you are greeted by a series of courtyard and you will slowly work your way to the central dome of the structure while you view the ornate interior decors. The most impressive room is not the central dome as you would think but the library. This Roccoco masterpiece is one of the finest such constructions in the world with a wealth of manuscripts of wall to wall. I would have taken pictures but was asked not to.
When finished make your way to the river and hit the boat jetty. On the other side of the river is Emmersdorf, the twin town of Melk. It is a town rather typical of the valley.
Aggsbach
This is the first part part of the tour. It contains two river castles, a few hamlets and a religious monastery. The next stop on the boats will be in Spitz.
Schönbühel an der Donau
This 12th century castle will be the first to greet you when leaving Melk. It sits on a rocky outcropping on the west bank of the river. In 1819 it was renovated after falling into disrepair, giving it its current palatial shape.
Kloster Schönbühel
Located just 500m downstream from Schönbühel, on the west bank of the Danube, this small religious structure was built in 1666. By this time I was more preoccupied with drinking my wine and enjoying the sunshine. The monastery belongs to the Servite order and the last monks left in 1980. As per their contract, when the monks left, the monastery was returned to nearby Schönbühel castle.
Aggsbach & Aggstein Castle
The small village of Aggsbach is a relatively forgetful sight in the beautiful Wachau valley. However it is home to one of the most impressive river castles along this stretch of the Danube, and the highest on this stretch of the river. The ruined stone fortification is located at 480 meters (1,570 ft) above sea level. Like the Schönbühel, the castle was built in the 12th century and served as a toll collection point. The Wachau Valley castles ensured that the Austrian nobility could collect significant funds though their control of the river. The castle eventually fell into the hands of Scheck von Wald a powerful robber baron and after him a succession of cruel thieves used the castle to inflict crippling damage on the river trade. Eventually the situation was rectified with the forced removal of the robber barons. Unfortunately, just a few years later, the Turks burned the castle down while on their way to besieging Vienna. At the time of its construction, the castle was viewed as impregnable. It is one of the most visited attractions in Austria.
Willendorf in der Wachau
This small hamlet is best know for the discovery of the Venus of Willendorf. Perhaps the most famous prehistoric fertility statue. Otherwise it is just another pretty Wachau town.
Spitz
The first town that the boat will stop at, Spitz is a wine lovers dream. The town is surrounded by hills growing hordes of grapes with the Hinterhaus castle standing guard above the town. The castle also dates from the 12th century and gives a great view of the river.
Weißenkirchen in der Wachau
This medieval town sports a pretty market square and a pretty parish church. Otherwise it is a typical central European town.
Dürnstein
The most famous sight in the Wachau Valley, outside of Melk Abbey, Durnstein was once the home of a captive Richard “The Lionheart” of England. The town is first mentioned in 1192, when Richard returning to England from the Third Crusade, is captured by the duke and imprisoned in the now ruined castle by the Duke of Austria. Like the rest of the Wachau valley Durnstein is known for its castles.
The two most prominent structures in town include the Stift Monastery, with its distinctive blue tower and the castle, located on a hill overlooking the town below. The monastery was established in the 15th century and rebuilt in Baroque style in 1710. The castle for its part has been reduced to a complete ruins as it was destroyed by Sweden (of all countries!) in 1645.
During the Napoleonic Wars the Battle of Dürenstein took place nearby.
Krems
Krems is the Terminus of the Danube boat ride. It may be hard to believe but Krems was once as large as Vienna and was considered a place of importance. Today Krems is the largest center in the Wachau valley. Although mentioned as early as the late 10th century, the city reached its peak along with the rest of the Wachau Valley in the 12th century when it was called Chremis. The city is known for its fine apricot brandy!
Don’t forget that the boat terminus is nowhere close to the train station, again times are fixed so plan accordingly. I actually had to run for a train as I had to make it back to Vienna to catch a bus to Budapest Hungary.
Return to Vienna
We boarded the train in Krems with only minutes to spare and sat down out in our seats of breath. By the time we had made ourselves comfortable it had already pulled away from the station. Enjoy the sight of the many wineries from train as it is an uneventful ride back to Vienna.
Gallery
Here are a few extra pictures of the Wachau Valley that did not make it into the post:
