Temagami – Exploring the White Bear Forest
Northern Ontario can be breathtaking, yet only a fraction of Canadians get to experience its unparalleled beauty, and most of those people are hunters and anglers – men and women used to the remote nature of the land of endless lakes and thick impenetrable forests. It is on one of these trips north that I came across a stunning little piece of country that I had never laid eyes on before Tenogomi, lights from the town shimmering on its lake as I passed it by on the Highway though the night. I did not forget it and on my return I made a stop in town.
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The Town
Know by the name of n’Daki Menan, it was the the homeland of the Anishinaabe (Ojibwe) a first nation people currently living on Bear Island and latter a logging center. The town has little to visit of note, apart from its natural beauty. As such the town is often used as a staging place for expeditions by canoe and land out into the wild including the latter discussed White Bear forest. It lies roughly half way between North Bay and the town of Haileybury/Temiscaming Shores in an area with no other settlements of note making it somewhat of a strategic location.
One of the most prominent structures in town is the old stone built Ontario Northlands railway station.
The town itself consists of a few buildings scattered around the waterfront, where you will find the visitors center. For day trip access to lake Temagami you should stop by Finlayson Point Provincial Park. Here you will find a plaque dedicated to disgraced conservationist Grey Owl who staged Canoe trips across the north but was unmasked as non-aboriginal among other things. Access to other parks and conservation areas are provided nearby.
White Bear Forest and The Fire Tower
Driving from town, one can enter the White Bear forest and climb up the famed Temagami Fire Tower. This forest is named after Chief White Bear, who was the last chief of the Teme-Augama Anishnabai people and is popular with hikers due to the fact that it is almost entirely old growth white and red pine. In 1928 Temagami became a logging town, of massive scale, with the arrival of the Gillies Bros. logging company. The area called White Bear was spared as the mill owner enjoyed a view of the forest. Today it is protected and much beloved by locals and tourists alike, trails zig zaging through its innards. As a fun fact! The park contains a portage that has been in use for over 3000 years!
The Temagami Fire Tower is an attraction of its own. Built in the heart of the park and offers a fine view of the forest below, it was last used in the 1970s to spot fires.
From the lower deck you will get a pretty goof view of the forest below, as the tower is already built atop a hill. The gate to the tower itself was closed at the time of my visit due to covid, a stupid decision but typical of Canadian jurisdictions during these times.
So of course I climbed around the fence and made my way up the tower! I’m I’ve never put up with that kind of stupidity. The view you will get is only slightly better but looking down from the tight cage of the tower is quite the thrill!
Take a moment at the top to admire the surrounding landscape!
