Tallinn – A Visit to the Old Town of Reval
Once the Danish fortified trading town of Reval, the Estonian capital is a stunning city that is beautiful at just about anytime of year. Whether the city is covered in snow or in the middle of the summer heat, it manages to look just as pretty!
Table of Contents
- Geography
- A Brief History
- Transportation
- Exploring Tallinn
- Nightlife and Drinks
- Day Trips
- Conclusion
Geography
Tallinn is located on the Bay of Tallinn, a body of water in northern Estonia that flows out in the Gulf of Finland and later into the Baltic Sea. The city is surrounded by small lakes, the largest of which is Lake Ülemiste, a body of water that provides the city with most of its clean drinking water.
Overlooking the Baltic sea is Toompea, a limestone hill that has been at the heart of the city since its inception.
A Brief History
Occupied by stone age tribes since 5000B.C, Tallin has had a long and tumultuous history. The ancient proto-finnish Estonians built a first fortress on Toompea hill in 1050A.D. setting the stage for what would come next.
Danish and German Period (The Northern Crusade)
In the early 13th century, Bishop Albert of Riga and Valdemar II of Denmark were allied and engaged in the partitioning of the Baltic State of Livonia. This was part of the Northern Crusade, a violent movement to Christianize the Baltic Region. The Danes would take the north of Estonia whereas the Livonian Order under Albert would take the southern territories of Estonia. In 1219 the Danes would capture the hill fortress and found his own castle on the hill. A short time later they establish St. Mary’s Cathedral. The battle to capture the city was furious and it is said that the tide only turned after a red flag, with a white cross, fell from the sky – the future flag of Denmark!
This rule would be short and in 1227 the territory is transferred to the Livonian Brothers of the Sword (Later the Livonian order) until 1238 before returning into Danish hands until 1332. In 1284 Reval as it was then called became part of Hanseatic League, an important Baltic/Northern European trading organization, signaling its growing importance as a trading hub. It was the northernmost city of the league and an intermediary with the Russian trade with the city of Novgorod. The Estonians would try to retake the city in 1343, to no avail. Later that year the Brotherhood of Blackheads formed. The commercial organization was an important social organization in the Baltic/Livonia and is best known for the House of the Blackheads in Riga.
In 1347, the King of Denmark had money troubles and it would be sold to the Livonian Order, by then partially subordinate to the Teutonic Knights. Although the Grandmaster of the religious order was master of the territory, Reval was ruled by a municipal government greatly helping its economic and social development during this time. Germans dominated the town economically and culturally.
During the Protestant reformation, the town converted to the Lutheran religion. Thus most of the churches were converted during this time period. Modern Estonia is rater religious but the spires still stand tall as a testimony to centuries of religious life within its walls.
Swedish Rule
In 1561, the town was taken by Sweden during the Livonian War and would be besieged by Russia twice during this time (1570 and 1577). The Swedes were a more gentle occupier to the Estonian people, with the main university being set up in Tartu, along with a handful of new rights for their subjects. Despite this the town was on the decline. With the end of the medieval ages the Hansa went into a sustained decline and the town was hit by the plague and a massive fire in 1684. The Swedish rule allowed for a first flourishing of the Estonian language in Print whereas it was otherwise dead in the German dominated Teuton administration.
Russian Empire
In 1710, the town was besieged by Peter the Great during the Great Northern War. The town was almost wiped off the map and would not recover for 100 years. Despite the destruction of Peter’s siege it was him that would order the construction of a large new modern port facility allowing for some industrial development when rail lines were built connecting the city to the rest of the empire. The most important of these industries was the pulp and paper one! The Russians would engage in a Russification process against the minorities at the end of the 19th century greatly intensifying the need for independence.
Interbellum Republic
At the start of the 20th century a romantic national revival movement began, coming out of the University of Tartu but centering in Estonia’s most important city. The first Estonian Mayor was elected in 1906. In 1918 the Soviet union dismantled the city’s civil institutions but Churchill’s landing of the English fleet at St. Petersburg caused enough chaos to allow the Baltic countries to declare independence as the grand old man had planned. Tallinn joined an independent Estonia in 1918 and this would launched a massive period of cultural growth. The loss of Russian industry did hurt the town at first, the economy sputtering until the 1930’s
Soviet Occupation and the Modern Era
During the start of the Second World War (1940), the Soviets occupied the city. In 1941 it was taken by the Germans and heavily bombed by the Soviet army, luckily most of the old town survived this destruction. Unfortunately the city’s 1000 jews perished in the Holocaust. The city was again retaken by the Soviet Union in 1944. During the repressive Soviet Era, the city did have the lock of hosting a few events for the 1980 Summer Olympics. The legacy of these games can be reflected in the Tallinn TV tower and the Linnahall (discussed below). The city (and Estonia itself) participated in the world’s longest human chain alongside Latvia and Lithuania.This was part of a peaceful protest displaying Baltic Solidarity against Soviet Oppression. Called the Baltic Way it remains an important event in the collective memory of many. Tallinn and Vilnius residents both playfully tease each other about which county is the start and what country is the end of this chain.
Estonia regained its independence in 1991. Left behind during the Western European Economic boom years it reinvented itself as a tech hub becoming the wealthiest Baltic city. The clean and modern is not only a tourism destination but a hub for startups.
Transportation
Airtravel
The Tallinn airport is clean, modern and one of my favourites in the world. Located a mere 4km’s from the old town, you could take a cad in 9m into town, take a 20minute tram or bus or even take the hour walk in! Fantastic!
Sea Travel
The Seaport of Tallinn is located in Sadama, an old warehouse district. From the pier building you get a fantastic view of those stone warehouses amidst the backdrop of the modern skyscrapers of the business district. From the port you will have the pick of the litter when it comes to international ferries. A route runs several times a day to Helsinki and there are departures to other Baltic capitals like Stockholm and St. Petersburg.
Urban Transportation
As mentioned the Tallinn tram runs from airport to the proximity of the Old Town. This part of the city is easily walkable, due to its emphasis on pedestrians on the narrow cobblestone streets. From the Old Town you can walk just about anywhere. For longer distances to suburban areas, you may want to take a bus or the tram.
Interurban Transportation
The Latvian countryside is best accessed by bus for small towns and lesser destinations. For the popular seaside resort of Parnu, or towns on the road to Riga, a busy train line will run frequently. Interurban transport by bus and train is rather inexpensive.
Exploring Tallinn
Although the old town of Tallinn is fairly large, it is also an easy city to find your way around. Castle Hill to the west is an unmistakable landmark whereas the spire of St Olaf’s church lets you know where the north-west corner of town is located. In the center of town, the Tallinn Town Hall provides an obvious marker. Traditionally the old town was inhabited by the Germans and other foreigners while the Estonians occupied the outer suburbs. The demographics began to shift after independence.
The Lower Town
I got off the tram at Viru station, getting off at Musumägi park – where the famous lovers statue is located.
My goal was to enter the city the right way, Viru Gate (Viru Väravad). This massive 14th century access point to the old town is the traditional entry point to Tallinn. The double pointed watchtowers are among the most iconic parts of Tallinn’s defensive system.
Following Virgu street up you will get to see stunning Germanic buildings, the scale of which actually took me aback. Tallinn is a beautiful city! The Patio’s here are quite lively and are a tad overwhelmed by tourists during the day.
The gothic town hall, almost like like a medieval building from Flanders. Built in the 13th century, not long after the tow’s founding it remains the vibrant heart of the city.
If you have the chance tours are held of the inside of the building and may be worth a look.
The square itself is quite animated in the summer months hosting concerts and is always filled with a crowd.
To the south of the square you will filter into a small square where you find the St. Nicholas church. The gothic germanic houses are nice and there is a small public market settling assorted items. The church spire can be seen looming above this market.
One of the oldest churches in the city, it is dedicated to St. Nicholas, the patron saint of sailors. It must have obvious choice for the early inhabitants to dedicate the building to someone who could protect the towns chief industry. Today the building houses Niguliste Museum, a branch of the Art Museum of Estonia. It specializes in medieval art and makes a visit to the church a rewarding one.
It is around this time that I saw many people in traditional clothing walking the streets of the city. This was due to the song and dance festival, an important cultural event that takes place throughout the country every summer.
Continuing south you will come across Freedom Square, at the edge of the old town. This public space is dedicated to the fight for national independence and is filled with monuments to that effect. It is usually rather empty but fills up for special events and serves and important ceremonial purpose.
At the far end of the square you will find St. John’s church, an important 19th century structure illustrating the changes in architectural style for Lutheran church building. Despite these changes I still find that it keeps a traditional charm.
From freedom square it is easy to access castle hill by heading north-west. This will give you a chance to see many of the city’s prominent defensive features and St. Michael’s Church, a Swedish construction for their citizens.
It is under these fortifications that you will find the Bastion Tunnels
Back near the Viru Gate, just north of it, you should stubble across St. Catherine’s Passage, a 15th century medieval alleyway flush on each side with stone residences and iconic buttresses.
There are a number of craft shops in the alley and if this is your sort of thing, it may be worth a stop.
On one of the walls you will find ancient tombstones put upright! This is fact due to the alleyway being attached to St. Catherine’s church, a ruined ecclesiastic building repurposed into a merchants house and used for a variery of eccentric uses over the years. It is now a concert hall!
Some of the narrow streets that long the city wall in this part of town are simply stunning.
Just a few meters north from the alleyway you will find a rare sight in Tallinn, a Catholic church! After the reformation many places of worship were converted but under Swedish domination the catholic religion was banned. St. Peter and St. Paul’s Cathedral was completed under Russian rule when Catholicism was reintroduced to the country. It was built over the ruins of St. Catherine’s monastery in 1844 (hence why it is so close to St. Catherine’s church). Above the door, on the portico, you will read “HIC VERE EST DOMUS DEI ET PORTA COELI. AEDIFIC. MDCCCXLIV. RENOV. MCMXXIV'”which roughly translates to “Here truly is the house of God and the gate of heaven”. This building gives an interesting insight into Catholic Tallinn,
Continuing north-east you will find the KGB Prison Cells museum as well as the beautiful Saint Nicholas’ Orthodox Church constructed, again, under Russian Rule.
Located in the northern part of the city just past the KGB, Olaf’s tower is the most iconic viewpoint of them all. It is literally impossible to miss this massive church tower. The building is named after the King Olaf II of Norway, and was constructed during the 13th century and expanded/rebuilt in the 14th. The massive scale of the construction will strike you when you enter into its naive.
Obviously the thing to do at Olaf’s is to climb up the stairs to the tower. The building is 123.8 meters tall, so this will be a great little workout for you climbing up the narrow staircase.
From the spire you will get the best panoramic view of the city as well as the upper town. Struck over 10 times by lightning, this building may have briefly been the tallest building in the world during a short span of time in the 16th century, but this is disputed.
Past Olaf’s church, at the northern end of the city walls you will find Fat Margaret, a massive round tower dating from the 16th century. Today it houses the maritime museum but the limestone cannon tower still looks intimidating.
Toompea Castle (The Upper Town)
You will likely start your visit of the Upper Town at the Toompea castle. Although the north-western face of the castle retains its medieval defensive like features, with the 215 step “Tall Hermann” defensive tower (1370) in full view, much of the building has been transformed into an 18th century pink baroque palace. Today the building serves as the Parliament of Estonia.
A stones throw away, you will find the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, consecrated in 1900 it has a total of eleven bells cast in Saint Petersburg. The beautiful building was constructed during Russification and the residents of the city hated what it represented. Luckily it has survived without being torn down and can be viewed for its architectural merits outside of those of Russian colonialism.
At the center of the district is St. Mary’s (Dome Church). The oldest place of worship in the city and one the only buildings on the hill to survive a 17th fire.
Founded in 1240, it is the city’s first cathedral and from my perspective it is also the prettiest in the city, despite its small size.
walking its perimeter you will get a good glimpse at its iconic gothic details.
The Upper town is quite small and will not take long to walk though. There are many interesting crevices and side alleys and I encourage you to take your time walking through it.
The Upper town offers several lookouts, with a particularly stunning one called the Kohtuotsa viewing platform, looking at the old town and Piiskopi viewing platform looking west!
Kompassi, Sadama and the Port of Tallinn
From the Port of Tallinn you will get a great view of a trio of converted stone warehouses that are home to some great restaurants/brewpubs as well as a wine store and cigar shop. In behind the warehouses is the city’s modern skyline.
After you pass thought the warehouses you will first come across the district of Sadama and then heading south Kompassi.
Both of these areas have seen extensive redevelopment in the industrial loft housing stock and new condos tastefully intertwine with the old construction. This area if filled with great little holes in the wall.
Linnahall
Constructed for the 1980 Olympic games, this former facility looks like it is in indescribably poor condition. The games were actually based in Moscow but because they had no place to host the Sailing events, these took place in Tallinn due to its unfettered access to the Baltic Sea.
This gargantuan concrete monstrosity was once a concert hall and at its northern end stands a helipad. Its long and hulking shape almost makes it look like a spacecraft or a weapon of war jutting out of the Baltic sea.
Many redevelopment schemes have fallen by the wayside but although ti is ugly it is a very interesting structure to walk around. From its roof you will be privy to a great view, albeit desolate, view of Tallinn.
The steps may also be used as a good place to practice exercise as there is rarely anyone here do to its removed location from residential Tallinn.
On the end with the helipad you will find a small restaurant where you can grab a pint and enjoy the Baltic sea. Alternatively bring your own brews and drink them on the steps.
Kadriorg Art Museum, Russalka and the Reidi tee Promenaad
Located in the eastern end of the city, not far from the Baltic Sea, a visit to Kadriorg is a must! The name Kadriorg, can be roughly to “Catherine’s Valley” in English. The name makes reference to the famous baroque palace at its heart, constructed by Catherine I of Russia. The district is known to be the most expensive in the nation and for good reason. The streets have a well developed forest cover, almost as if you are walking though the woods and the palatial wooden buildings are set back from the street. On major thoroughfares, you will find mid sized backs three or four stories high byt the leafy cover is still well maintain. A walk through Kadriorg is a quaint experience.
At the eastern end of the district you will find a massive park, at the start of which is a large pond. At the north end you will find a statue of Jaan Poska, a former mayor of Tallinn and a central player in the early republic of Estonia, his house can be found in the neighborhood mentioned above. At the center of the pond is the pretty Luigetiigi paviljon, an ornamental gazebo on an island.
Off to the south side you will find a pretty pink building. It is the former home of Eduard Vilde, now museum. Eduard is a famous Estonian writer, so this may be a change to experience some new literature.
After the Great Northern War, Peter the Great stepped into Tallinn’s history. He built the palace for his second wife and Empress, Catherine I of Russia. Yet this residence for the couple was modest. At first they lived in a humble home but the Palatial Complex was started in 1718, yet was incomplete. The construction would soon stop with the death of Peter, without her husband Catherine had no use for the seaside Baltic resort. Empress Elisabeth and Catherine the Great both visited the complex but stayed only briefly. What you see today is a renovation by Nicholas I of Russia.
Later the Palace was used by the Governor of Estonia and in 1919, after independence, it became state property. After a visit by King Gustaf V of Sweden, the building became an Art museum, a position it still holds to this day. Today’s visitor should take the time to walk though the beautiful rear yard gardens to soak up the sight of the stunning complex.
In behind the palace you will find the pink coloured presidential palace (Office of the President of the Republic of Estonia), added to the complex in 1937. Make sure to continue east from here to see the original Peter the Great House, mentioned above. You will also see the Tallinn Lower Lighthouse and the modern Kumu Art Museam. Off to the south you will find the Children’s Museum, Miiamilla .
From the palace, a well manicured and tree lined pathway that will lead you to the Baltic Sea. The pathway terminates in a roundabout encircling the Russalka Memorial, a moving tribute to the victims of a shipwreak. From here you will have a wonderful view of the Baltic sea, and an uncrowded beach to lounge at. From this spot you can waltch the cruises ships roll in an out of Tallinn’s port in the distance. You can continue back to the Seaport via the Reidi tee promenaad.
Nightlife and Drinks
Tallinn is not particularly known for its party scene, a shame because the nightlife in the city is superb and quite refined for a city of its rater diminutive (population wise) stature. You will surly notice a large number of heavily intoxicated Finns. Taxes on alcohol as well as the price of drinking is much cheaper in Tallinn so many take the quick ferry ride over from Helsinki for weekends on the town. Back in 2019, at the time of my visit, Finland had just beaten Canada at the world juniors. Unfortunately I spent a full night listening to my Finnish hostel mates signing we are the champions to me while teasing me for being Canadian. Fun times but after a full night of it I was ready for a break. Although you will find terraces all through the Lower Town, I recommend the restaurants near the Olde Hansa or the Town Hall Square. Later in the evening, hit the bars and clubs on Suur-Karja streer near the famous (infamous? – Tallinn’s hottest club is?) Club Hollywood the building cannot be missed with its long lineups and tacky faux columns. Suur-Karja street has lots of sit down bars and even a Karaoke spot.
For the alt scene or something that is less party party, hit the street of Sadama. This trendy restored factory and warehousing districts is home to great microbreweries, distilleries and restaurants.
Popular beers in Tallinn include the cringe inducing A. Le Coq beer, named after a German Estate Owner / Archeologist. Better than pabst but not by much. A much more drinkable mainstream bear is Saku although Tallinn has some remarkable microwbrews as mentioned above so I recommend any of those. A popular mix drink is the “Long Drink” a gin and grapefruit drink that is popular with Estonians and Finns alike,
Day Trips
As a port city, Tallinn is connected to several Baltic ports, many of which are but a short distance away.
Helsinki
Located just across the gulf of Finland, from Tallinn, Helsinki has ferries running across to it several times a day, making for an ideal day trip. The Finnish capital is quite refined and architecturally stunning, I recommend a visit. in fact transit between both nations is so simple that you will find Finns flooding Estonian bars looking for cheaper alcohol than in their own Nordic nation.
St. Petersburg
On the eastern side of the Bay of Finland, the famed city of Peter the Great is an ideal destination for the traveler willing to do an overnight on a boat. If staying on board said vessel you can visit the city during the daytime visa the free! Enjoy the sight of stunning tsarists era palaces and canals in one of the most important cities in the world.
Conclusion
Tallinn, like the people of Estonia (most models per capita), is known for its beauty, but beyond the superficial thrills lies an interesting and complex city. The picture perfect old town may be the main attraction but the town also has a wealth of 19th-20th century architecture and soviet era ruins to entertain anyone looking for alternative tourism sites. Tallinn is also about what lies beyond!
