Tábor – Living In Jan Hus’ Hussite Paradise
At the center of the Southern Bohemia, with its quaint rolling hills, stands a town both fair and lively. Its name is Tábor, named after the biblical Mount Tabor located in Israel, but also the literal translation of the world “camp” in Czech, a testament to its humble origins. For those not aware, this was the home of the legendary Taborites, proto-protestants following the teachings of the Czech martyr Jan Hus. A man who was brutally murdered by the Catholic church in an act of treachery at the Council of Constance in 1415.
To Czechs, he is a national hero, and as the home of the Taborites this city holds an important significance to the national and religious identity of the Czech people. I hope you enjoy it as much as I did!
Table of Contents
Geography
Keeping up with the biblical theme, the town is fed by the Jordan Reservoir, a water storage civil works named after the river Jordan of course! Sense a theme? It is the oldest damned reservoir in central Europe built in 1492. Although it no longer serves its purpose as a water storage space, it is now a popular recreational area.
The city is crossed by the Lužnic River, a minor watercourse, wooded and lined with hills on its north side.
Speaking of which it is these north side hills that the old town itself has been constructed upon. This natural high point was chosen for its prime defensive capabilities.
A Brief History
Settled since the Iron Age, Tabor has a long and bloody history that is both fascinating and gruesome. Yet it is also a delight to read about for someone that is not a Czech as it ties back to the very core of what and who the Czechs are.
Kingdom of Bohemia
In 1270, a short-lived settlement called Hradiště was founded in this location, but was destroyed during a rebellion against the Czech King Ottokar II of Bohemia in 1276.
Hussite Rule
The town you see today was founded during the 15th century, and grew rapidly from here. Its founders were part of the radical wing of the Hussites, followers of Jan Hus. It is they who became known as the Taborites! In 1420, the year of the city’s founding, the Taborites defeated the governor of České Budějovice. They failure of the, now foreign held, Crown to deal with with this sect would cause them many headaches over the following decades. The highly mobile Taborites would wage war from their newly fortified base, sending out war wagons with their own unique military tactics.
Despite a Hussite defeat at the Battle of Lipany the Hussite’s reconciled with reconciled with King Sigismund. In return he made their city a royal town bringing it prosperity. It once again bent the knee in 1452 to the troops of George of Poděbrady, the last Czech King of Bohemia and a moderate Hussite. The town suffered fires in the 16th century but also prospered.
Habsburgs and the Dual Monarchy
The early period of foreign rule by the Austrian Monarchy was a difficult one for the city. While King Ferdinand I campaigned against the German Lutherans the city refused to help, and for this act the town was deprived of its most valuable lands. Again the rebel town was not so easily quelled and it revolted with the rest of the Czech lands in an ill fated uprising that would be put down at the Battle of White Mountain in 1620. The city itself refused to surrender after the loss and hung on until November 1621 when it ran out of food supplies.
The Thirty Years’ War was equally unkind to the city and in 1648, the town was stormed and looted by Swedish army. The town could not recover until after the war. The Austrians took advantage of the stability during these years to push the catholic faith in their realms.
Czechoslovakia and the Modern Era
After the start of the First World War, the city was incorporated into Czechoslovakia. Although the city suffered from German Occupation during the Second World War, its historic core has luckily been preserved. It is now an important domestic tourism site but I recommend a visit to those traveling internationally as well.
What to do in Tábor
Tabor is a relatively and walkable small place but what lacks in size it makes up for in historic charm and quaintness. The old town is perfectly preserved and there is little to distract from the heritage character.
For those arriving by train, the station is located east of the town at the far end of the Jordan Reservoir.
Jordan Reservoir and the Eastern Suburb
On the east side of downtown you will find the Jordan, a large body of water, now a recreation area. Paths along its length exist and if you would like, you can find a waterfall at its discharge location. Alternatively you can walk though the suburban area between the old town and the city, but it rather less pleasant.
You can also find the Sladovna Rudolf, a local brewery on the eastern shore of the reservoir closest to the train station.
In the case that you insist to walk through the suburb, you will find a few interesting buildings including those public administration, a few churches and a large school.
One of these impressive buildings is the College and School of Agriculture, a testament to the importance of the pastoral landscape that surrounds the city.
Old Town
The old city is typical of a walled Czech town dating from the late medieval period. The streets are cobbled, the buildings tightly packed and ice cream shops are abound. Although the walls are mostly gone, the old town still keeps the shape of the fortification, the only difference is that the walls have been replaced by roads. Remnants of the later day star fortifications can still be found on north side of town however.
My favorite part of the old town is the cobbled street one the west side of the city that leads into the passageway under the clock-tower and into Zizka Square.
The inside of the decorated archway of this passageway really struck a cord with me!
Zizka Square
The beating heart of the city, this medieval square is home to the city’s most prominent structures, chief among them is the Church of the Transfiguration on Mount Tabor, a nod to the church in the holy land, also on that holy mountain. The gothic church was constructed in 1480.
In front of the building you will find a series of old guild homes and a statue of the Czech national hero, the legendary Jan Žižka. Known for his one eye, he is a fascinating historic figure. A veteran of the Battle of Grunwald (15 July 1410), where he helped defeat the Teutonic Order, he would later become the leading figures of the 15th century civil wars in Bohemia where he led the Hussites against foreign intrests. His major engagements at the Battle of Sudoměř (1420), in the Battle of Vítkov Hill in Prague (1420) and Battle of Kutná Hora (1421) are well documented.
You will also find a war wagon, the primary fighting tool of the Hussite warriors, used to create mobile defenses where mounted ranged attacks could be used against the enemy. Small muskets and cannons were mounted on the wagons themselves.
Across the way you will find the old town hall, now a visitors center and museum.
Beside the clock-tower is the passageway I had mentioned earlier. The dark colored building beside it is one the oldest buildings in the city!
Hussite Museum in Tabor and Tunnels
In the previously mentioned old town hall, you will find the Hussite Museum, detailing the history of that sect. The gothic building dates from 1440 when three houses on the western side of the square were town down to build it.
On the second floor you will find the main hall, sometimes called the palace. This vaulted room contains a statue of Jan Žižka on horseback.
Keep a look out for the intricately carved town crest, above one of the doorways.
The museum contain many displays on the history of the Hussite with an extra display on the history of the Czechoslovak Legions.
The best part of the museum tour is one that takes you under the town square to explore the cellars and secret tunnels that connect most buildings on the town square.
Kotnov
This small castle was once a integral part of the city’s defensive fortification system. Located at the western extreme of the city, as part of the city of Hradiště one of the first settlements in the regions predating Tabor, it was founded in 1270 by the legendary Přemysl Otakar II. It now served as an observation tower and a museum. Although destroyed several times in its history, it eventually became part of the Tabor city walls. The corner tower is the oldest battery tower in our country!
The building today is a strange hybrid museum including displays on natural history, geology, archeology and a Hussite exhibit housed over the Gothic Bechyňská gate, this is where I learned of the Hussites influence on modern christian, where the goblet that is their symbol indicates that it was them who introduces drinking wine during communion to the christian tradition.
The highlight of the building is the observation tower, that takes you up 25 meters or155 steps). From here you will be afforded great views of the old town, including the Brewery right next door (Pivovar)
Conclusion
If war is hell, then the holy Tabor is seasoned with that accused affliction. Yet despite its difficult circumstances Tabor has always been a place where the status quo is challenged. A rebel city, it is easy to forget about those difficult times while walking its clean and safe manicured cities on a summers day!
