Split – The Gateway to Dalmatia
The industrial seaport of Croatia stands in stark contrast to sparkling Dubrovnik. It was born of strife and built into the walls of a Roman emperor’s palace. From its humble beginnings the city grew to become a powerhouse of the Adriatic and the second largest urban center in Croatia. Split may show its wear through its crumbling stone walls and decaying palaces but do not be fooled it is by far one of the most interesting cities in Europe!
Table of Contents
But First… Some Geography!
Split is located on the coast of Dalmatia, at the very center of Croatia’s historic heartland. The city was built on a triangular peninsula jutting out into the sea and as the city grew it spilled over onto the mainland. It is one of the most important ports in the Balkans and as such it should be no surprise that the city has ferry connections to Italy and to the stunning Adriatic Islands.
A Brief History
Antiquity
The city was first established as a Greek colony called Spálathos in 305BC. After Rome captured the Upper Balkans during the course of the Illyrian Wars, they establish their own settlement nearby. Located just north of present day Split it was named Salona, now Solin.
Salona became the capital of the Roman province of Dalmatia and Diocletian, a low born native of Salona who moved up the ranks of the military to become emperor, began constructions on a massive walled palace near Spálathos (Spalatum in Latin). At this time Salona was one largest cities in the Empire and the palace, started in 293BC reflected this. The Roman Empire was at the brink of collapse at the time of Diocletian but it was stabilized during his rule, however, this was not to last. Diocletian’s successors were greedy and although the people asked him to come out of retirement to save the empire, the old man was content enjoying his dying years at the palace he founded – growing cabbage of all things.
The palace would still see royals within its halls after Diocletian passed. It was occupied by Nepos, the last Roman Emperor after he was thrown out of Italy. He founded an independent Dalmatian Kingdom but was assassinated in 480 putting an end to his planned restoration of the throne of Rome. In 493AD the city was taken by the Ostrogoth Kingdom – The barbarian occupiers of Italy. With the death of Nepos the Western Roman Empire was abolished. In following years, the Byzantines under Emperor Justinian fought to recapture Salona along with other lost Roman territories.
Medieval Ages
The subsequent barbarian incursions would form the city we know today as Split. In 639 Salona was sacked and completely destroyed by the Avars. The terrified populace did what any reasonable people would do and fled to the Croatian Islands. At the same time the land was settled by the Croats, a Slavic people. A decade later the Salonians would return to their devastated city and finding it indefensible would settle in the sturdy walls of the old palace. The new inhabitants rededicated the old temple of Jupiter to the Virgin Mary and raided the ruins of Salona to recover the remains of Saint Domnius and establishing a cathedral in his name. Life at the palace was not easy, they were constantly harassed by the Croatians but eventually Constans II of the Byzantines intervened. The Emperor gave them an imperial mandate, this offered an official recognition of the settlement, naming it the city of Spalatum. As subjects of the Byzantines, the empire ensured a ceasefire. The Croats were allies of the Byzantines in their joint fight against the Avars and as such the Croats would not touch the now Byzantine city. In fact, the alliance between both nations was so strong that the Byzantines decided to resettle Balkans (depopulated during the fall of Rome) with the Slavs. Depending on the region they would serve either as their allies and/or subject – whatever the case the Croats were in Dalmatia to stay. During this time the Latin dialect spoken by the city’s elites changed into its own unique dalmatian dialect (now extinct) and the city was renamed Spalatro.
The 10th century saw the creation of a Croatian state, centered around Nin and bearing down towards Split, still ruled by the Byzantines. Many of the common inhabitants of Dalmatia spoke Croatian and led by Gregory of Nin they made a play for national recognition at the Synod Split. An adversary of the pope, the bishop asked the language of instruction for bible to be in Croatian for his people and he was rejected. The city was a hotly contested commodity falling to the Kingdom of Croatia, Venice (then a Byzantine dependency) and even to Hungary but was always returned to the Byzantine State.
In 1180 the city once again fell to Hungary before being taken by Venice. This rule would last until 1420 and change the city forever.
Venice, Napoleon and Austria
Venice is a greedy city that guarded its power jealously. It should be no surprise that under Venetian rule the town’s independence and powers receded significantly. Nevertheless, the city thrived on trade with the Ottoman Banat of Bosnia located inland. Croatian became the most commonly spoken language and the commoner was poor as Venice did not invest in the city. The rule of Venice ended in 1797 by the Treaty of Campo Formio giving away the territory of Venice to Austria.
In 1805 Dalmatia was invaded by the Napoleonic Kingdom of Italy and in 1809 was incorporated in the French Illyrian Provinces before being returned to Austria in 1815.
The city would become the capital of the Kingdom of Dalmatia, a dependency of Austria, but was again left to stagnate. During this time pro Croatian and Italian factions advocated for their causes.
The World at War and Independence
The end First World War saw the collapse of Austrian rule. It was replaced with a Yugoslav Mandate, a new super state comprised of serbo-croatian speaking Slavs. During the Second World War the city was invaded by Italy. Incensed, a third of the population joined the communist partisans’ resistance and overthrew the Italians (with many sympathetic Italians even joining the mob). In turn, the city was punished by Hitler and his puppet, a fascist Croat state. During this time the city’s Italian, Croat and Jewish communities suffered greatly. The city was joined to Yugoslavia once again after the war. Yugoslavia was now a socialist state instead of a monarchy. The city would join independent Croatia in 1991, but the breakup of the Serb dominated Yugoslav federation brought about many years of conflict. Small skirmishes took place nearby between the Yugoslav army and the Croat forces but no major battles took place. Yugoslav rule saw the best years of both economic and population growth for the city in the modern era and the city has only just started to recover from the disaster of the 1990’s.
What to Do in Split
The Waterfront and Bacvice Beach
No trip to Split is complete without a visit the the Adriatic seafront. Luckily if you are entering the city by bus, train or ship you will have the chance to start your day on the waterfront. The train and bus stations are located on the waterfront just south west of the city, just in front of the ferry. A short five minute walk will bring you to the Old Town and Riva, the stunning seafront esplanade. The space is filled with endless bars and restaurants and is the go to place for supper in the evenings.
To the east of the waterfront, following the coast, you have the Bacvice and Firule Beaches. Known for their crystal clear waters they are also known for their beach bars, restaurants and clubs.
Marjan Park
To the west of the old town, at the tip of the the Split peninsula, you have Marjan Forest Park. Although it is outside the city center it is well worth the time to explore but do bring water as you will have a long day of walking. The park consists of a log stretch of coastline and an elevated wooded area with sweeping views of the city. This view can be found at the very entrance of the park if you take the Marjan Hill Stairs.
This urban park has existed since the reign of emperor Diocletian, in the third century BC. The people working in his palace needed a place for recreation and so the park soon became that very place. As the city grew, the Marjan became one of the few remaining untouched areas near the city center. This was in in large part due to the difficulty in developing the site. As such, Split retained its role as a natural retreat from the city, a role it still fills to this day. Just past the Marjan stairs the church of St. Nicholas awaits. This tiny stone building dates from the 13th century and is dedicated to the patron saint of fisherman – a practical shrine for a seaside city. Other attractions that you will find on the hill include many churches, viewpoints, cemeteries, a now shuttered zoo and the old Jewish cemetery. On the coast you can find the Vila Dalmacija and old summer residence of Tito (the Yugoslav dictator). If you have read some of my other posts you will see that he had summer homes in Ohrid (Macedonia), Bled (Slovenia) and Igalo (Montenegro). Lastly if you are willing to go further out on the Marjan towards the tip of the peninsula you can find more beaches (and luxury boats) along with the Split Oceanographic Institute. This white painted marvel stands at the end point of the park and is as stunning a building as you will find in Split.
The Palace (Old Town)
Any visit to the old town must starts with a walk down Marmontova Ulica. This street, located just west outside the palace walls, is an important pedestrian shopping district. If a pungent smell is detected, that would be due to the fact that the street is home to an important fish market. Be sure to visit Trg Republike (Republic Square). Located a street over from Mormontava Ulica, this 19th century complex was the brainchild of the former Italian mayor of Split. A proud Italian, he wanted to construct something to remind him of Venice. It is a terrific public space, at the north of the square is an imposing red painted Neo-Renaissance building while the south side of the complex is open to the sea. I spent my last morning in Split here basking in the sun and having breakfast before my bus to Zadar.
From here, be sure to visit People’s Square. Here you will find some of the finest buildings in the city, including the baroque Cindro Palace and the Gothic town hall, dating from 1443, built with a loggia in Italian style. The main attraction however is the roman era clock tower rebuilt during the renaissance.
Just to the south you will find the 15th century Venetian Castle, now nothing but a large pentagonal tower built on the remains of an old monastery.
The main attraction of course is Diocletian’s palace. If you are entering though the Bronze gate, located on the waterfront, you will be heading into the city underground. It is an odd arrangement but it makes sense when you realize that the emperor would enter the palace by sea, the waves hitting the walls of the city and dropping him off at this location – hence the entrance was directly at sea level. It is here that you will find one of the best preserved roman cellars in the world. After the barbarian invasions this area was transformed into residential quarters for the Salonians. Further along in the complex you will come across an a beautiful open dome letting in sunlight. You are now near the cathedral in the very heart of the city.
Leaving the open dome behind you will enter the Peristyle, the historic courtyard at the center of the roman complex and one of the most photographed areas in the city. Looking up you will see the spire of the Saint Domnius Cathedral, a stunning Romanesque building. Although most of the structure consists of re-adapted palace walls, the belltower stands out as a new element, it dates from the 12th century and is one of the most striking landmarks in Split. The religious building itself is regarded as one of the oldest continuously used cathedrals in the world. The oldest part of the structure is housed in the old mausoleum of Emperor Diocletian.
To the east of the courtyard you will find the magnificent silver gate that leads to the Pazar fresh food market, but before you leave make sure to visit all the roman sights within this section of the old town. This includes the Triclinium (dining hall) and the the temple of Jupiter.
If you are still looking for thing to do make sure visit the city museum. It hosts a wide array of items linked to the city’s past including weapons and armour. You can also admire the old stone buildings and walls and see how the people literally built into a palace, it is mind blowing!
Suburbs
Just outside the city gates (Golden Gate) you will find the famous statue of the bishop Gregory of Nin, a national hero of Croatia. In one hand he holds a bible while his other directs the sermon. It is said that rubbing the big toe of the archbishop will bring luck – As such I needed to get in on that toe action! Off to the side you will find the ruins of the Benedictine monastery of St. Euphemia, along with the remains of its chapel, now covered in glass to protect it. This was one of the first buildings installed outside the city walls.
Other attractions outside the city walls include the Maritime Museum along with a few interesting buildings such as the yellow painted Croatian National Theater. While walking around pick up a Pipi, a locally manufactured soft drink that you try while here. Otherwise the suburbs do not hold too much for the average tourist.
Nightlife
Split is a city of many vices. I spent my first night in a quiet hostel and while walking the streets heard the drunken karaoke signing of a band of Australians. Looking for some action, I stepped into a hostel bar and immediately made friends to pub crawl with. Suffice to say I booked this hostel for the next night. For those interested there are a few beach bars near Bacvice Beach, as mentioned earlier.
The interesting thing about pub crawling in Split is observing the tasteful uplighting that gives the old city a stunning look. If you just want to enjoy a beer out on a terrace, both the old town and the port are excellent choices for this. When you are done partying, the stumble back though the narrow alleys only to find the occasional brightly lit courtyard is delightful.
If you have the chance to befriend a local do so! I got invited to a punk rock club in the basement of a derelict building somewhere in the suburbs. The students run operation was a blast and I was definitely out of place! As a Canadian the may weather seemed warm to me so I was wearing shorts and a ball cap. I do not have tattoos, piercing or where dark colors, to top it off I am pretty innocent looking making me the curiosity of the punks!
Day Trips
Solin
Just a few kilometers to the north of Split, you can find modern Solin. This city was the old Salona. Today not much remains of the ancient city but visiting what little remains of the ancient city ruins is a good excursion for completists.
Trogir
This Adriatic port town located north of the city was previously an important center but has been overshadowed by Split. The pretty town makes for a nice day trip but is relatively quiet.
Klis
This fortress located just past Solin was used as a filming location for Game of Thrones.
The Adriatic Islands
The Islands are a large part of the allure of Split and in recent years have become direct competition to their Greek counterparts. Many people come to sail the scenic clear waters and other to explore the pristine old towns. Popular choices include Hvar, Vis, Krk, Brac and Korkula.
Conclusion
The city that the Archbishop of Nin fought for language rights in is now very far removed from its romance roots. In many ways time has been unfair to the city, a leading center of Rome and capital of Dalmatia to a second city of independent Croatia. Stagnation may have taken hold of the city, but it had not lost an ounce of excitement!
