Spiš Castle and County – The Medieval Heartland of Central Slovakia
There are few landscapes as authentic as those found in the rolling plains of central Slovakia; a land where forlorn castles soar above hills, wooded glens and old medieval towns. The latter are marked in the distance by churches with their distinctive ancient spires where locals continue their slow pace of life, far removed from the bustle of modern society. Welcome to Spiš country a land where past is present, unabound from the outside world.
Table of Contents
Geography
Located far above sea level in the northern part of Central Slovakia, this city occupies an untouched locale where the Tatras mountains to the north have given way to endless rolling hills now farmland as far as the eye can see. The city was for a time the capital of Spiš County.
A Brief History
Of course the history of the region will be focused primarily on the medieval ages, since the region reached its peak at this time. However, there is still much that has not made it into this post.
Pre-Medieval History and Great Moravia
Occupied since the Neanderthals, our first indications of civilization are with the Celtic people. After the Slavic migrations of the 7th century it was home to the Slovak run Great Moravian Empire. It would later fall to the Magyars (Hungarians) and the region would be incorporated into Poland.
Medieval History
In the 11th century the Kingdom of Hungary took much of the region, the town prospered until the Mongol invasion of 1241. Afterwards, king Bela IV of Hungary brought Germans into his Kingdom to help re-populate it and stimulate the economy. Many of the towns in the region underwent this process, creating a new local elite in the urban areas. Called Zipsers (Carpathian Germans), they were primarily attracted to mining settlements due to their particular skills in deep shaft mining.
Additional polish settlements also occurred, Slovaks and Poles having longstanding ties. The region strongly benefited, along with all of Central Slovakia, from new trade routes from Poland heading south during the 15th century.
In 1412 the Treaty of Lubowla was signed by Poland and Sigismund of Luxembourg, then the ruler of Hungary. As part of the treaty 16 towns, two castles, and a many villages in Spiš were sold to Poland so Sigismund could fund wars in today’s Croatia. These include the likes of Stará Ľubovňa, Podolínec, Spišská Sobota, Poprad and Spišská Nová Ves. They would remain as part of Poland for 360 years until annexed by the Habsburg monarchy in 1772.
Austro-Hungarian Rule and the Modern World
The protestant reformation did reach the region and many towns converted. The tumult from this period resulted in anti catholic Habsburg uprisings, and eventual decline. In 1868, the long silent Slovak majority spoke and 21 Spiš settlements sent their demands for special status within the Kingdom to the Diet (parliament) of Hungary. This was called the ‘Spiš Petition’ and like most peaceful demands of the Slovaks fell on death ears. The era of Magyar nationalism was in full swing. The railway came in the 19th century but it bypassed the larger settlement Levoča.
After the First World War, Spis became part of the new Czechoslovak state. Yet northern Spiš was united with Poland and became the subject of a long-running border dispute between Poland and Czechoslovakia. The Second World War saw Jews were deported during the Holocaust by the puppet state of Slovakia. In recent times many Slovaks have moved away gypsies have replaced them. Although relations were once tense these people have begun to integrate themselves into the economy. Spis is a rare example in Europe of these people integrating the local life and being accepted in returned.
What to do in Spiš County
Included in this post are the following settlements:
- Levoča
- Spišská Nová Ves
- Spišský Hrhov
- Spišská Kapitula
- Spišské Podhradie
- Spiš Castle
- Žehra
- Hodkovce Caslte
Medieval Landscapes of Levoča
The chief settlement in the region is Levoča, a unique medieval sentiments known for its UNESCO sites including the wood carvings of Master Paul and the politically incorrect “Cage of Shame”. Possibly the most intact medeival settlement in the country, if not Europe, it should be at the top of your list of things to visit!
A full blog post of mine exists on this fascinating place, it can be found here.
Spišská Nová Ves
Located south of the highway, this settlement was once a copper mining center. Its current claim to fame is that it is home to the Spiš Museum and its proximity to the Slovak Paradise mountains, a popular recreation area. Its german name was Iglau and it his host to a beautiful old theater among many other buildings along its oblong shaped old town square.
Spišský Hrhov
Forgotten by time this small 2000 soul village is nevertheless an underrated stop in the region. In the center of town, not far from the post office, you will find some parking as well as a music museum. In the square in front of it you will find a variety of folk artifacts. The town once belonged to the Csáky family, the last owners of the Spiš castle, who moved here in the 17th century.
From here you can walk to the Spišský Hrhov Manor House, built by the Csáky family after they purchased the property in 1885. The massive neo-baroque structure lies in ruin today but must have been something in its prime.
From behind you will enter the park and gardens, one of the five largest parks in eastern Slovakia. The property fell into its derelict state in 1945 when the mansion and park were confiscated by the state, the a communist puppet of the Soviet Union.
The last point of interest is the town church, located a short walk from the manor. The deteriorating gothic building has recently seen renovations, it is the Church of St. Simon and Judah of Slovakia.
Honestly, there is not much too it but the headstones were quite interesting.
Spišská Kapitula, St. Martin’s Pilgrimage Cathedral, St. Cross Chapel and the Sivá Brada
On your way toward Spis Caslte from Spišský Hrhov in the west, you will come across a stunning religious structure called the St. Cross Chapel standing in solitary fashion on a hill for all to see. It is part of the Sivá Brada, a small pilgrimage route from the Chapel of St. Martin’s Pilgrimage Cathedral in Spišská Kapitula to St. Cross Chapel via a hill path with small chapels along the way, almost as a cavalry would.
From the church you will have a great view of the landscape, including ancient trees along the roadway to Spis castle planted by the old aristocracy.
You will also find natural water springs rising from the landscape.
You can either walk along the chapel route to the pilgrimage Church of St martin of drive along the roadway.
After crossing over the hill you will find the previously mentioned church in the distance. It is the Cathedral of St Martin.
Surounded by a short wall and acessible by a formidable gate, Spišská Kapitula is a well-preserved ecclesiastical town with UNESCO heritage value sitting just above the town of Spišské Podhradie. It has served in its position as diocese head since the 12th century. Flanking the gate is a baroque structure.
The Cathedral is dedicated to St. Martin of Tours, in France and dates from the 12th century with some gothic elements added at a later date. It has recently seen well-received restorations that have helped preserve it for future generations. It is one of the most important Romanesque buildings in Slovakia and the interior holds many elements of note. These include the tombs of the Hungarian nobles of the Zápolya family, many altars including the Altar of the Adoration of the Magi (1497) and a painting from 1317 depicting the coronation of Charles Robert of Anjou as the King of Hungary.
From the cathedral, a well preserved medieval street takes you down to Spišské Podhradie.
Spišské Podhradie
Although it has seen better days this small medieval town is one of the main entry points to the castle. Occupied since the 12th century it was latter populated by Zipser Germans.
Today the town is home to a main square that although less well preserved the the St. Martins district, is seeing better days with a recent influx of cash to restore facades and rejuvenate the park.
Attractions include an old church and the recreation of a medieval mill inside one of the towns buildings.
Spiš Castle
There are two parking lots used to access the castle, one in the town below to the west or in a lot accessible by road to the west. The latter reduces how long you will have to climb but fills up fast.
On your way up, you will receive great views of the town and the landscape below.
The castle was built on a massive rock outcropping in the 12 century on top of a previous structure. It is composed of a upper and lower district. Makes sure to bring cash up to pay as there is no machine at the top.
Once inside the lower castle you will be able to walk its walls.
The castle remained a royal one before 1464, the famed Hungarian monarch King Matthias Corvinus being the last royal owner. The castle then passed into the Zápolya family until 1528, then the Thurzó family from 1531–1635, then the Csáky family (1638–1945) whom were the last non-state owners. The Czaky’s abandoned the stucture in the 18th century, hence its state of disrepear. Since 1945 it has been state owned.
Much of the interior of the lower castle is now gone, but the foundations of of old towers and buildings have been excavated.
From the upper castle you will find the second parking lot. Above it is the Ostrá hora hill which offers by far the best views of the massive castle, one of the largest in Europe.
Once done with the lower courtyard you will be able to head up. This second courtyard area is home to the exhibits.
It was the Zápolya family that would really develop the upper castle, making their personal residence / royal palace. This area is seeing largescale renovation currently and should be a joy to visit when this is done.
Žehra Village
Just east of the famed Spis castle, you will find a small town near a very impoverished gypsy camp. Known for its distinct onion domed fortified church, that can be seen in the distance, this site is seldom visited by tourists.
When in town you will find a collection of traditional homes, including one that is beautifully painted with with what looks to be sunflowers. The settlement is an ancient one, dating from the 13th century and still retains much of its character.
The main attraction of course is its UNESCO site, the Church of the Holy Spirit in Žehra. Founded in 1275 but repaired after a 15th century fire, the building has been renovated several times including its 18th century tower and onion dome. Despite the fact that fortified churches are always impressive, once inside you will better understand its value. Beautifully painted walls adorn it and is of great artist value. The byzantine influenced art dates from the 14th century. It was strangely preserved after outbreak of plague in the 17th century covered the interior of the church with lime plaster for disinfection. In the 1950s the frescos were rediscovered when the lime was removed using cottage cheese on the walls to remove the plaster – of all things!
The views of the landscape from the churches short fortified wall is magnificent. Please not that visiting hours to the church are quite limited so do check before you visit if you would like to see the inside.
Hodkovce Caslte
Another site devoid of tourists, this well maintained palace is now a zoo, garden and museum.
Another Csaky residence in Spis – this one belonged to Stefan Csaky the founder of his family’s line in the region. his descendent remodelled the building in Renaissance mansion in the 17th century and later in the Classicist style in 1815.
There is a small expanse of woods behind the castle where you will find woods and a church.
Conclusion
Enjoy the primeval medieval landscape of Central Slovakia while you still can. Modernity reaches even the most obscure reaches of the globe, as the view of the divided highway crossing the landscape near the castle would indicate. This county of Slovakia is surely worth its UNESCO name.
