Skopje – The Las Vegas of the Balkans
I often hear fellow travellers deride Skopje as kitschy, often telling others not to visit this city. I find all this talk preposterous, Skopje for all it’s faults, is absolutely worth seeing. For one, it is the most ridiculous and strange place I have ever visited but most importantly, it is fun! Take that self-important tourist!
Table of Contents
A Little Geography:
Skopje, a city sitting in the dead center of the Balkans, is one surrounded by mountains. It sits in the northern part of the Republic of North Macedonia (at the time of my visit it was simply called Macedonia), in a valley, where an old stone bridge crosses the Vardar river. Overshadowing the town, to it’s south is the gigantic, Mt. Vodno. At its peak stands a large steel member cross marking the millennia. To the north of the city, past the Kale fortress and the mountains, you will find the republic of Kosovo, it is de-facto independent but claimed by Serbia.
The north side of the city has traditionally been occupied by the Muslim and Roma minority, the buildings are older and the people are generally poorer. This area is built around the old bazar (marketplace). The south side is more modern, it suffered greatly from the 1963 earthquake where most building were demolished and rebuilt by foreign relief funds in modernist style. It is now the home of Macedonians, a mostly Orthodox Christian people, many of them coming to the city in large waves of rural exodus as the country modernizes.
A Brief History:
For a city as old as it is, Skopje is forever marked by a relatively recent event, the 1963 earthquake. In the years following this natural disaster, cold war barriers fell down and aid poured in. The new city, having lost it’s built heritage, was reconstructed over the old. Today, the city has shed off its concrete dread and embraced the modernity of the kitschy Skopje 2014 building project. Suddenly, long-lost monuments reappeared from the dead and some that never existed were added. The city is still in the process of reinventing itself as more of the downtown is filled in. The Skopje I saw in 2017 will surely be much different in the coming decades.
Bronze Age and Antiquity
The site of the Kale fortress has been occupied since 4000BC, long before the Bronze Age. It was first occupied by the Paeonian kingdom. This obscure civilization was said to have been allied with some of the Greek city states including the Trojans. It was the conquered by the Dardanians of present day Kosovo, a powerful ancient tribe with association to ancient Illyria. The ancient city was called Scupi, it was the capital of the Dardanians and was located a few kilometers from the present-day city center.
The people often clashed with the ancient Macedonians to the south before both kingdoms were conquered by the Roman Empire in 28BC. incorporated in the roman province of Macedonia, it became a wealthy legionnaire colony before its destruction by way of a catastrophic earthquake in 518AD.
Medieval Ages (Turmoil)
The city was rebuilt inside the Kale fortress due to the barbarian threat but fell to Slavic tribes in 695. It was then conquered on several occasions, in 830AD by the Bulgarian Empire, briefly serving as a capital, before being traded to the Byzantines in 1004AD. The Byzantines and Bulgars squabbled over it until the Normans took it over, then the Serbs, the Normans again and back to the Byzantines it went. Afterwards the Bulgarians, Byzantines and Serbs squabbled over it. I’ll spare you the details as the city exchanged hands many times.
Ottoman Occupation and Decline
Skopje experienced a major restructuring in 1392 when it was conquered by the Ottoman Empire. The Ottomans ethnically cleansed the town of Christians and it would not return to Christian hands again for hundreds of years. This period is marked by prosperity, the city experienced an era of political stability and its position in the center of the Balkans made it ideal for trade. They built baths, the bazar, caravanserais, mosques and much of the civic infrastructure. The population peaked at over 30 000, becoming one of the largest centers in the Balkans.
The Austrians took the city in 1689 and burned it down hoping to prevent to spread of a nasty cholera epidemic that had plagued the city for several years, decimating the population. They left the following year and the Turks put rebelling Slavic Christians to the sword. This period coincides with the decline of the Ottoman empire and with the decline of this once powerful empire, so too, did the city’s fortune sink. The population had completely collapsed and as the empire’s power diapered rebellion and lawlessness set in.
The city would only recover in 1873 when a railway was built connecting it to Salonika (Thessaloniki, Greece).
Balkan wars and the Modern Era
During the fist Balkan war in 1912 the city was taken by Serbia. In this war the Christian powers in the Balkans rebelled against a declining Ottoman Empire, taking back a large amount of territory and forming the semblance of the Balkans map we know today. During the First World War Bulgaria, allied with the Triple Alliance (Central Powers eg: Germany, Austro-Hungary and later Turkey) took the city from the Serbs, then part of the Triple Entente (France, UK and Russia). This occupation lasted from 1915 to 1918 when the French led a foray into the Balkans and took the city. It was subsequently incorporated in Yugoslavia.
In this postwar period, the Serbs were not always good overlords to their new conquests. The Serbs, attempting to suppress local identity though a process of de-bulgarianisation, inadvertently helped foster the creation of an independent Macedonian movement, a new Balkans identity.
During the Second World War, the Axis invaded Yugoslavia and gave the territory of Macedonia to Bulgaria. All Jews were deported to the Gas Chambers at Treblinka (hence why there is a holocaust museum in Skopje). The new local authorities implemented a process of de-serbianisation. The city was reincorporated into Yugoslavia in the post-war.
In 1963, the city was hit with an earthquake so powerful that it destroyed 70% of the city. As Yugoslavia was officially a Non-Aligned (neutral) nation it was able to receive aid from both Russia and the United States, something that was rare during the cold war. With this money the city was rebuilt in a modernist style. Today the city is experiencing a revival and the much-maligned modernist structures are slowly being replaced as part of the Skopje 2014 project.
Fun Fact!
Skopje is often refereed to as “The City of International Solidarity”. Since Yugoslavia was officially a neutral nation during the cold war donations flowed from both the West and the East. The worlds reaction to the 1963 earthquake is seen as the most successful international relief effort of the Cold War.
What to do in Skopje?
The Statues
Oh god… so many statues… where to begin and how to explain?
As part of the Skopje 2014 project a seemingly infinite number of statues have popped up around town. Many travel bloggers deride this but I found it to be fun. Sure, many non-Macedonian historic figures were borrowed, but who cares! Macedonia’s entire history is one of complexity and conquest, may as well show it off. Here is a blog post just about the statues, there are many other out on the internet.
One statue that you absolutely must visit is a controversial one. At the time Macedonia (now North Macedonia) was in a naming dispute with Greece who claims the name due to the country’s Hellenic heritage. Modern Macedonians, although non-Hellenic built a massive Alexander of Macedon (“The Great”) in Macedonia square on the south side of the Vardar river. Greece was not happy. A funny tidbit of information is that this statue is called “statue of the great warrior” but one look at it and you will recognize Alexander.
In the same square you can visit a large white marble representation of Tsar Samuil (Samuel) of Bulgaria as well as its twin, a statue of the Byzantine Emperor Justinian I. Joining their ranks is a massive bronze statue of Phillip II of Macedon amongst many lesser known statues. One of my favourites is the “Boatmen of Thessonaliki” statue, a circular podium with representations of Bulgarian revolutionary figures in the Ottoman empire.
The pedestrian only, “Bridge of Civilization” nearby contains many more statues. This bridge was renovated for Skopje 2014, it includes a large array of ornate streetlamps and is literally lined with statues representing Macedonian historical figures.
Other statues are scattered around the city, they include the likes of:
- Skanderbeg, the Albanian national hero (Macedonia has a large Albanian minority)
- Mother Theresa
- A beggar with his long beard
- A giant fish (no idea why, its ugly)
- Many figures (obscure to westerners) of Bulgarian, Macedonian and Yugoslav history.
- And much more…
Conspicuously absent are statues of ethnic Serbs, who were a big part of the development of the western Balkans. One such Serb, Tzar Dushan, the King of Serbia who made the city his capital is absent. After a brief reading, I found out that his statue was removed due to objections of both Albanian and Macedonian Nationalist. Although the history of Serbian occupation in 20th century Macedonia is complicated and problematic, the statue of a medieval monarch should be reinstated. If you can put up statues of Byzantine and Bulgarian monarchs, a Serb one deserves a place as well, after all he was crowned Emperor at the Kale fortress.
Macedonia Square & the Vardar Riverfront
Start at the statue of Alexander in Macedonia square on the South shore of the Vardar river. On the the 8th of September 1991, a large crowd gathered here to hear the results of a very special referendum. It was here that Macedonia officially declared its independence in a resounding fashion. A turnout of 75% was recorded with a 95% of the respondents in favor of independence from Yugoslavia. Today the smooth stone square spans both sides of the Vardar river and is considered the heart if the city. Linking both sides of the square is the symbol of the city, an old stone bridge dating from 1469 when the city was under Ottoman rule. The structure has survived both war and earthquakes. In 1944 the Nazis planned on destroying but abandoned the scheme after outcry from Skopje’s influential citizens. It is one of the few truly authentic things to see in Skopje and a testament to sound engineering. From this square can be traced all the major boulevards in the city, they radiate in all directions using the square as their center. It is on these boulevards that you can finds such monuments as the Porta Macedonia an Archway built in classical style for Skopje 2014.
Lining the river are newer monuments. Since most of the city was destroyed, these rebuilt structures either borrow from classical styles or attempt to stand out by being odd, modern or out place. In some rare cases the reproduction of ancient structures a mostly fateful, such as the National Theater Building (it is the prettiest on the river). The most prominent of the new classical styled structures are the museum of the Macedonian struggle and the Archaeological museums. These institutions are not the best museums in town but although they mostly do not provide information in English, they do offer some insight on the Macedonian heritage. A more interesting museum for a western tourist would be that of the Macedonian Holocaust. The region was occupied by the axis ally, Bulgaria, and Jews were sent off by rail to the death camps in Poland. This little know chapter of the Holocaust is heartbreaking and well researched. It is well worth the look. Other things worth seeing near the museums are more statues and the pretty church of St. Demetrius.
On the south side you have the proof that Skopje has attracted international attention. A Marriott hotel occupies a classically styled building overlooking the square and an older building, one of the few originals, houses the massive and iconic green Skopsko beer sign. If you haven’t had one, do so. It is one of my favorite Balkan beers.
In the river you can find three (3!) pirate ship hotels and restaurants. Don’t ask me why, Skopje is far from the Mediterranean and the Vardar has never been a port but they exist so check it out! Its practically Macedonian Disney!
North of the Vardar
North of the Vardar river, you can find the most important heritage area in the city. Dominated by the imposing Kale fortress it contains the remains of medieval Skopje. As you pass North Macedonia Square, the National Gallery of Macedonia, with its ottoman domes greets you into the oldest surviving part of the city. This building, an old hammam (bathhouse), dates from the 15th century. From here you can cross a busy trenched highway into the old bazaar (marketplace).
This was the center of life during the Ottoman era. The bazaar dates from the 12th century and even contains some Byzantine era buildings. Look out for the square shaped Suli An caravanserai (travelers inn), with a courtyard in the center, it now houses a museum. The area contains over thirty mosques, the most important of which is the Mustafa Pasha’s Mosque. Other monuments include many domed hammams, churches as well as shops and restaurants. This is where I had my first Pljeskavica with fries, the equivalent of a hamburger in the Balkans. This delicious variation includes fresh flatbread.
Once you climb upwards towards the Kale fortress you will see the Mustafa Pasha’s Mosque dating from 1492, it contains a garden and a tomb. The tomb is that of Mustafa Pasha’s daughter. You will also find the oddly shaped Museum of Macedonia, although brutalist in style (with oddly shaped panels) it is well worth the visit. Here you will also find old barrack houses and the Kurshumli An, a caravanserai that now houses a wing of the Museum of Macedonia.
Lastly you have the Kale fortress, a guardian watching over the city, having witnessed all the chaos and carnage that happened here throughout the centuries. It occupies the highest point in the old city limits and dominates the skyline looking north. The site has been occupied since the Bronze Age and the present fortress was first completed by the Byzantine Emperor Justinian. In 1346 Stefan Dušan was crowed Emperor of Serbia on the grounds of the fortress, he then moved the capital of Serbia to Skopje. One thing that is interesting is that the fortress was completely demolished during the 1963 earthquake and it now being reconstructed. You can walk the walls to have a great panoramic view of the city. I was there in the spring and was the only person there at the time, there are no museums, no placards and the area has open archaeological pits. It is nice to be able to walk where you wish and explore at your own pace. It feels quite authentic and the large scale of the site gives the impression that this would have been a menacing medieval construction.
*** for those looking for a great picture, the Hotel Arka will give you a great panorama of this the city. This shot is the one used in many guidebooks and until now I couldn’t figure out where the picture was taken from ***
South of the Vardar
From the statue of Alexander, you can venture out into the southern park of the city. This is the modern face of Macedonia, many of the ugly socialist buildings are getting a face-lift. If you like strange brutalist architecture, come see it before its completely gone. The main street, Macedonia Boulevard, leads directly to the old train station. Now the Skopje city museum, the old clock is stuck at the time of the 1963 earthquake and remains a testament to times past. On this street you can also find the Mother Teresa house, although not my favourite historical figure, she is well known in the Western world for her charitable work. Born 1910 in Skopje, while the city was still part of Ottoman empire, she wound up in India and is known for her work there. Her home is a reconstruction and now houses a museum dedicated to her life as well as a golden domed church. Other streets include the Porta Macedonia, a triumphant gateway arch built for Skopje 2014.
It is in this part of the city that you can find many nightclubs and casinos, be aware that as a westerner you will stand out like a sore thumb. Macedonians are friendly people but do not do anything that is illegal or illicit. The Macedonian police have little tolerance for this type of behaviour.
Outside the immediate core is a wide array of socialist era buildings, these include the football stadium as well as the city zoo.
Mt. Vodno, Matka Canyon and the Outskirts
If you have the time Skopje has some great excursions just outside the city limits. The first one is to check out is Mount Vodno. This green giant sits just south of the capital and can be seen from any point in the city. At its summit sits the millennium cross, erected in 2002, it is one of the largest crosses in the world. The summit, a cool 1066m, is accessible by cable car. Apart from ecotourist and mountaineering activities it contains stone villages such as Gorno Nerezi, with its pretty byzantine style monastery.
Located 15km’s south west from Skopje is the always impressive Matka Canyon. The artificial lake, created in the 1938 during the construction of the Matka dam it is the most popular summer destination in Macedonia. Here you can escape the city and go boating, swimming or hiking to the many monasteries that line its shores. If you can only pick one day trip to do, I would choose this one.
Finally, you can visit ruins from antiquity including the old aqueduct and the ruins of roman Scupi.
Something that I did not do, but found out about at a later date, is that you can visit a Roma (Gypsy) neighborhood in Skopje. Since I did not visit this location I have included a blog post from another source here, if you are interested in visiting.
Conclusions:
If you style yourself as a fun person that enjoys quirky adventures this is absolutely the place for you. Although the city had certainly more charm to it before the earthquake, the city is now trying to reinvent itself. Although not all of its attempts at it are successful,Skopje has certainly carved out a name for itself. I give Skopje a thumbs up!
