Sintra – The City of Palaces
The scorching heat of the Portuguese summer can be too much to bear for just about anyone, least of all royalty, that’s why Sintra with its vast canopy of refreshing hilltop forests is so appealing. Leaving Lisbon behind, the elite of Portugal made Sintra their hideaway and around it the little town of Sintra prospered.
Table of Contents
- Geography
- History
- Exploring Sintra
- Arrival In Sintra
- Getting Around
- Visiting the Village of Sao Martinhi
- Walking Up to the Castle dos Mouros
- Look Down at the Sea From Castelo dos Mouros
- Be Blown Away by the Pena Palace
- Stop by the Quaint Chalet of the Countess of Edla
- Explore the Underground World of the Eerily Beautiful la Quinta da Regaleira Estate.
- Stop by Other Palaces and Stately Homes
- Fountains
- Conclusion
Geography
Nestled within a ten kilometer granite mountain range, Sintra sits in a mountain pass leading to an Atlantic coastal plain. It is this geography that has influenced Sintra’s unique micro-climate. The main part of town is Sao Martinhi and this post will focus on this part of Sintra area, rather than the Atlantic Ocean Coast. Due to its proximity to the national capital of Lisbon, Sintra’s history has been intertwined with that city.
History
For a city mostly known for its Portuguese heritage, Sintra has a surprisingly diverse history stretching back to the Stone and later Bronze Age. The famous Sintra Collar displayed at the British Museum was discovered here at the end of the 19th century. The close proximity to the nearby trading center of Olipso (Lisbon) has influenced life in the city throughout its history.
Antiquity
Archaeological remains confirms the existence of a small Roman settlement at Sintra, with a road passing through the hills to Lisbon. The mountain range was considered to be somewhat sacred as was commented on by Cadizian Lucius Junius Moderatus Columella while Ptolemy referred to it as the “mountains of the moon”.
Moorish Period
After the barbarian incursions destabilized the Roman Empire, a power vacuum led to most of the Iberian peninsula being taken over by the Moors, Muslims from North Africa. During this era both the Castelo de Muros and the principle village of Sintra, Sao Martinho was established.
In 1093, as part of the reconquest (Reconquista) of Portugal from the Moors, Alfonso VI of Castile took the castle. It was quickly retaken by the Muslims.
Portuguese Kingdom and Empire
In 1147 Sintra was taken by Afonso Henriques of Portugal along with some Templars, shortly after the capture of nearby Lisbon. It is this king that would officially make Sintra a municipality consisting of four villages, the property of which belonged to the crown. The fertile plains became ripe for farming and ecclesiastic orders began to build their convents in the mountains. Furthermore many military orders established palaces in the vicinity. During the occupation of Portugal by the Spanish Kingdom of Castille, Sintra was the last city to surrender to the house of Aviz, the new dynasty of the nation. This is due to the fact that Sintra originally belonged to the Queen of Portugal and she had married the occupier, the king of Castile.
Now the domain of the king of Portugal, João Aviz (John I), he would be the one to establish Sintra as the summer home of the monarchs, a tradition that persisted until the 17th century. The thick forests would be prized hunting grounds for these men.
From 1580-1640 Spain would rule over Portugal. During this period the center of power was moved to Vila Viçosa, yet Sintra remained an important center for Portuguese Nobles exiled from the Spanish courts. This blow was deep and Sintra would take a long time to regain its place of importance within Portugal. The city was damaged during the Lisbon Earthquake of 1755, yet the advent of the Romantic movement brought interest from foreigners such as Lord Byron who described it as “Glorious Eden”. This enthusiasm eventually carried over to the royal family. The second half of the 18th and then the 19th century was good to the city. The Portuguese Romantic movement would culminate in the construction of the Palace of Pena in 1853. The nobility would continue to inhabit the town but it was increasingly sought after by the wealthy.
Portuguese Republic and Modern Era
During the 1920’s heritage and cultural protections were instituted to protect Sintra’s crumbling monuments under attack from the modern world. Today, Sintra is one of the leading centers of Portuguese tourism.
Exploring Sintra
Arrival In Sintra
To get to Sintra, I would recommend a voyage aboard the train from Rossio station in Lisbon, from here the town of Sao Martinho is but a short walk away. On this short voyage you will find Sintra’s 1910 Neo-Manueline town hall. This extravagant building is my second favorite in the town after the National Palace and you will find many buildings constructed in this style throughout the region. The roadway into the town includes wide boulevard sections with sweeping views of the above-mentioned palace and the the escarpment it is built on.
Getting Around
From the town you can find shuttle buses that run on a regular schedule to all the major attractions. Unfortunately, Sintra was so crowded that I decided to hike up though the mountains instead. This was a wise decision as you will see many churches and palaces along your way.
Visiting the Village of Sao Martinhi
The main settlement of Sintra is based around the Sintra National Palace, occupied as a royal residence from the 15th to the 19th century. It was built on one of the two Moorish palaces (the other being Castelo dos Mouros). Today the oldest part of the structure that survives is a 13th century chapel built by king Dinis. The palace was first constructed by king Joao I and the expanded on thought the next centuries, thus giving it its blend of architectural styles. The building became a national monument with the declaration of the Portuguese Republic in 1910. Make sure to visit the Sala dos Brasões, the most picturesque room in the structure.
Although the palace should be the focus of your visit here, try to spend some time roaming the town when you return from your visit to the Palace De Pena. The narrow street holds many small restaurants and shops that are surely worth your patronage and time.
Walking Up to the Castle dos Mouros
There are two primary ways up to the top of the mountain, one on the west side Parque das Merendas and the other on the east not far from the Church of Santa Maria and the Convento da Trindade. These pathways are well maintained and will lead you to the Castle dos Mouros.
Vila Sassetti
While on the east side I strongly recommend a stop at the Vila Sassetti, a stunning residence on the pathway up the mountain. The Romanesque structure is one of my favorite residences at Sintra.
Look Down at the Sea From Castelo dos Mouros
When you arrive at the top of the mountain you will be offered a breathtaking view of the town of Sintra and the plain leading to the sea from the Castelo dos Mouros.
Constructed during the 8th and 9th centuries as a means to protect the rich agricultural lands below, the ravaged by time ramparts have seen a lot of wear and tear. The structure was reconstructed several times during the early Portuguese kingdom but the castle and its chapel was levelled by the Great Earthquake of Lisbon in 1755.
Today you will find the ramparts in various states of disrepair but you will be able to walk up them to the tower. A small museum exists in the structural ruins of the buildings in the castle courtyard. Here you will find an old water cistern and some informative displays.
From the top tower of the castle, on a mountain peak you will have a wonderful view of the Pena Palace. There exists two such towers, both on peaks on both sides of the rampart wall.
Be Blown Away by the Pena Palace
This structure is the primary reason people visit the city of Sintra! Before you enter the palace gates, take the time to explore the massive garden at the base of the palace.
These massive grounds called the Vale dos Lagos e Pateira start off with a stunning pond, with romantic sculptures such as towers protruding from the water feature.
The pathways leading from the gardens include a large assortment of vegetation, even including a series of six giant sequoia trees.
The network also includes a series of neo-moorish gazebos and faux temples.
A network of paths will take you around the Sintra heights to a series of viewpoints, crosses and statues. The Warrior Statue in particular is hard to climb atop due to the slippery rock formation but offers a great view of the Palace. The best view however is from the high cross where High Cross, where you will catch the palace along with the Atlantic coast!
The stunning (and colorful!) romantic castle adorns a Sinatra peak and can be seen from Lisbon on a clear day. Make sure to visit first thing in the morning or late in the day as it is very crowded. Considered to be one of the “Seven Wonders of Portugal”, it is still used for state functions occasionally. The building was constructed on the site of a monastery and pilgrimage site that was badly damaged in the Great Lisbon Earthquake of 1755. The ruins of the monastery as well as the Castle of the Moors were visited in 1838 by King Ferdinand II of Portugal. Astonished at the beauty of the ruin he decided to build his palace upon it. It served the monarchy faithfully until the last Queen of Portugal would leave for exile in France.
Stop by the Quaint Chalet of the Countess of Edla
South from the Palace de Pena you can visit a pretty 19th century alpine chalet built by King Fernando II, for his future second wife, a classical singer. The wooden cottage is typical of those in vogue at the time but has the added bonus of having a botanical garden with species from around the world.
Explore the Underground World of the Eerily Beautiful la Quinta da Regaleira Estate.
Quinta is the traditional Portuguese designation for estate, and this grand property nested in the mountains is one of the crown jewels of UNESCO Sintra. In 1892, the Coimbra educated Brazilian-Portuguese businessman António Augusto Carvalho Monteiro purchased the property.
The first thing you will notice is the lower gate leading to the property’s rear yard garden. This stunning gatehouse is just an introduction to the magnificent property behind it.
The gothic and neo-manueline structure began construction in 1904 and was completed in 1910. The gothic elements almost seem to melt into the dense forest giving it an eerie feeling. Named the Palace of Monteiro the Millionaire, it was once considered to be one of the opulent structures in Sintra, and one of the strangest.
The eccentric owner is known to have incorporated Templar and Masonic imagery into the palace. Since its restoration in the late nineties, guided tours of the structure exist.
The structure is at its most stunning from the backyard, this is also where you will find some of the Quinta’s most impressive views. Including that of the Palace de Pena up on the mountaintop.
One of the most impressive portions of this rear yard is the Regaleira Chapel. Heavily detailed on the outside, it features a fresco of the order of Christ and murals on the inside.
The rest of the complex is just as impressive with a collection of buildings, gardens, tunnels, lakes, an aquarium and the initiation well. The tunnels include small grottos and can be accessed from the initiation well.
The ceremonial structure leads deep down into the bowels of the earth. The 27-metre spiral staircase down includes several small landings. This site was used for tarot card ceremonies.
This unique spot is popular for pictures on the spinal staircase. Make sure to get yours before you leave!
Stop by Other Palaces and Stately Homes
Although I have covered many of Sintra’s important homes, there are many more that have gone unmentioned. Walking around though the hills you shall surely encounter many unique homes that will catch your eye.
Fountains
Sintra is known for its ornate fresh water fountains and some even swear by the quality of its waters. Make sure to fill your bottles at sites such as Fonte da Sabuga and Fonte dos Pisões!
Conclusion
More than anything, Sintra and its many colourful palaces represents the strong bond between the Portuguese Monarchy and the nation they ruled. Not only is the Sintra area of outstanding natural beauty but also of an unmatched cultural importance and I would recommend it to any traveler to Portugal, despite how crowded it may be.
