Sinaia and Peleș – A Train Stop in the King’s Town
Secluded deep in the foggy Carpathians is a town of indescribable beauty, now frequented by a royal family with no throne. This royalty was born of necessity, foreigners to Romania, given the keys to power and naturalized to their adoptive country. Once they ruled Romania, wisely and diligently before calamity struck. In summers, when the Wallachian heat became too much for one to bear, they retreated to their mountain paradise for pleasure. They did so in style, via their personal train, disembarking in a station designed just for them. The reason they came here, to Sinaia was that King Carol, first of his name, built a castle nestled in the thick mountain bush. This structure was one that can rival any in Europe. When they died, their bodies were carried from the castle to the railway station, where their funeral train would await. The train would then bring the bodies to their final resting place at the Cuerta de Ares cathedral in the Wallachian Heartland. At first they took Carol I and then Ferdinand, great kings in their own rights.
Long live King Carol I, the first of his line, his children born in these halls!
Long live King Ferdinand I, for he was wise!
Forget King Carol II, a foolish and conceited man!
Long Live King Micheal I, the last true monarch to be birthed in these halls!
I came up with this one myself!
Oh Micheal, he was a great man. As a child he crawled the halls of Peles and as a man took the reins of power. He lived a life of somber dignity and for many people stands a reminder of the Romania that once was (and cold be one again)… that is the interbellum period before the Second Great War, where destruction turned sky into flame and earth into rubble.
Table of Contents
Arrival in Sinaia
I stepped off the train into the train station at Sinaia, my lungs filling with cool mountain air. It was raining and water could be heard percolating down the city streets, yet the rain felt good. Just a few minutes earlier, I was in a warm and stuffy train counting down the time to my arrival. My original plan had failed. The early morning train was sold out, so I spend the morning pounding back beers in Brasov station waiting for the next train to deliver me to my destination. Although not ideal, it was a welcomed development, I had explored Transylvania at a breakneck pace and it was nice to kick back and relax.
History of Sinaia
The history of this mountain town can be summed up by the construction of three structures, they are:
- The Sinai Monastery
- The Peles Castle
- The Royal Railway Station.
I suppose it is best to start at the very beginning. Sinaia is a wild mountainous region of impenetrable beauty, as such it should no surprise that the region was virtually uninhabited until the construction of the first hotel here in 1869. The owners were hoping to capitalize on the abundance of natural mineral springs. This event established Sinaia as a resort town, one that would spur a visit from the Romanian Royal Family and eventually kick-start the construction of Romania’s most beautiful castle in 1873. With the completion of the Bucharest – Ploiești -Brasov railway a few years later the town grow in importance with casino’s and resorts proliferating at a rapid rate quickly earning the town the moniker “Versailles of Romania”.
The city gained its name from the only building that proceeded it, the Sinaia Monastery, built into the mountains. Established in 1695 by Prince Mihai Cantacuzino, a Romanian Aristocrat (Boyard), the byzantine style monastery was inspired by a pilgrimage to the St. Catherine’s monastery on Mt. Sinai, in Egypt, hence the name.
A Day In Sinaia
Sinaia Railway Station
Stepping off from the train platform, you are greeted by a spectacle. The 1939 construction features high ceiling and massive archways. This was a station meant to impress, as the imposing architecture would suggest. The station has many billboards explaining the history of the rail station and its fascinating history. A smaller station dating from 1913 can be found just north of this station. Built in neoclassical style, and sporting its own platform, it was where the Romanian royal family and foreign dignitaries would disembark to access the city. It once displayed the Hohenzollern coat of arms, symbol of the Romanian Royal family, and their name before the completely immersed themselves in Romanian culture and ditched their German roots. During years of communist dictatorship, it continued to be used, hosting US President Gerald Ford for his summit with Nicolae Ceaușescu. To the south you have a rather large model train museum and a CRF (Central Romanian Railroad) 230 series steam locomotive.
On the station platform is a memorial to Ion G. Duca. This Romanian prime minister was assassinated at the station in 1933 by the antisemitic Iron Guard, a racist party that gradually took over Romanian politics during the late interbelum period (in between two world wars). Duca offered shelter to Jews and cracked down against the Iron Guard. His rule lasted only 45 days…
The Town of Sinaia
Leaving the railroad station you can take a staircase to the city above. You will find yourself on King Carol I boulevard, the tree lined main thoroughfare of the city. I still had my backpack on and wanting to keep it from the rain I quickly dropped it off at the Rina Cerbul Hotel and they were nice enough to put my things in their storage room even though I was not a guest at their establishment, a very nice gesture. The striking thing about the town is the semi-German/French alpine architecture mixed with soaring red Wallachian style roofs and motifs. There is a plenty-full bounty of palatial resort houses that give the town its flair.
At the center of the town you will find the Parcul Dimitrie Ghica (Park), where the majority of the most striking structures are clustered. At the center of the park you will find an massive stone fountain that is used for ice skating in the wintertime. In front of this fountain is the Caraiman Hotel, a 19th century neoclassical buildings from Sinaia’s heyday.
To the south, in an area still part of the park, you will find two of the town’s most important buildings; The Casino and the Hotel Palace. The latter is a grand hotel dating from 1911 and the former dates from 1913, a creation of King Carol I. At the time it was the leading revenue generator for the town and funds were funneled off into the hospital and the town hall, helping to maintain the town services. The communists, in their “infinite wisdom” shut down this leading gambling center of Europe. It now serves as an events center.
Other attractions in town include the Luminiș Vila, once home to George Enescu the most famous musician of Romanian. It is located in a suburb south of town. Another is the Stirbey Caslte, once an aristocratic home and now a period museum and hotel. It is located north of the park.
The Sinaia Monastery
On the hill above the town you will find the Monastery. To access it, you must climb the road behind Ghica Park. The complex consists of two parts, an older part, a square structure with a courtyard containing the old church at its center and the new part with a second church in behind surrounded by a small bastion wall and a cluster of buildings.
The old church dates from the founding of the monastery in 1695. It was built in Brancovenesc style architecture, the first Romanian style of architecture, classified by some as Wallachian Renaissance. Inside on of the inner courtyard buildings you will find the resting place of Take Ionescu, a former Romanian Politician and one-time prime minister. An anglophile, Take was responsible for Romanian joining the triple entente during the First World War, and the acquisition of Transylvania at the treaty of Versaille. Sensing the danger that the central powers, namely Germany, Hungary and Austria posed to Romanian interests he suggested a system of Alliances called the “Little Entente” between Czechoslovakia, Romania and Yugoslavia and France. This system kept Romania safe until it was dissolved in 1938 after the rise of Fascism in Romania and the loss of the Sudetenland. The latter, was a mountainous part of Czechoslovakia with a German population. It contained the most powerful regional line of defense and without it Germany could trample central Europe without much trouble. The strategic region was given away for nothing by the worlds greatest fool, the naive Neville Chamberlain. With the death of the Little Entente, an alliance with France was political suicide, but at the time the idea for a central european defence pact had been a brilliant coup of diplomacy.
The new church was founded in 1846 but was enlarged by King Carol I as to accommodate the royals during heir summer visits. A wing of the monastery was also constructed so he could use it as a summer residence while awaiting the construction of his Palace. It now houses a small religious museum. The church is built in a mix of Moldavian and Brâncovenesc style.
Exploring the Mountains
A visit to Peles castle, in the hills above the town, will involve a fair bit of walking. In the distance you see the famous ski resort mountains. One of these peaks is called Franz Joseph, named of Austrian Emperor, and offers a sublime view of the Prahova valley. This is the place where newly crowned King Carol I took Franz on a morning hike to view the borders of his new kingdom. Alternatively you could climb St. Anne’s cliff and visit the hermitage at its peak.
For those of a lazier disposition you could always take the cable car from the town center up to the gondola that brings you to the snow covered high peaks. Alternatively a serpentine road will take you to the top. This resort area is used for skiing during the winter.
You will notice that much of the architecture as you approach the Castle resembles that of a Bavarian burg, with buildings having ornate wood facades on the upper levels.
Pelișor Castle
Finally you will know that you have arrived at the castle when you arrive at this elaborate gatehouse. Today you can find a variety of different restaurants and I recommend getting something to eat here instead of in town. The food is much better.
Before heading to Peles, avoid the gatehouse and go north get to Pelisor. It is secluded from the main complex and surrounded by treets
Pelisor is the smaller building of the Peles complex. It was designed in Art Nouveau style by a Czech architect for Ferdinand I, the heir to the throne of king Carol I. The building was completed in 1902 and still remains a private complex reserved for the royal family. As such the inside of the building is off limits to the public.
Peleș Castle
In 1866, king Carol visited Sinaia for the first time and fell in love with the scenery. Years later he purchased a large plot of land commissioned a hunting loge and several auxiliary buildings so that he may enjoy his lands. By 1873 he had settled on the construction of his main estate, Peles castle. Foișor hunting lodge, the first building constructed on the estate, was the favorite of Carol but is not currently accessible to the public. It is located north of Pelisor castle. The Royal Ball of Inauguration was hosted by King Carol I on 7 October 1883 yet improvements continued into the next century.
The castle is located in a green meadow, its towers seemingly blending in with the tress around it. The handily crafted stone is mixed with fine wood from Romanian forest the detailing intertwined with the stone. As you get closer to the inner court you can see fine murals on the wall. This residence was assembled with the help of some of the finest craftsman from around Europe.
Italians were masons, Romanians were building terraces, the Gypsies were coolies. Albanians and Greeks worked in stone, Germans and Hungarians were carpenters. Turks were burning brick. Engineers were Polish and the stone carvers were Czech. The Frenchmen were drawing, the Englishmen were measuring, and so was then when you could see hundreds of national costumes and fourteen languages in which they spoke, sang, cursed and quarreled in all dialects and tones, a joyful mix of men, horses, cart oxen and domestic buffaloes.
Queen Marie of Romania, Her Personal Journal
On the terrace you will find many statues and a central fountain, allowing you to enjoy a view of the green mountains. As you prepare to enter the castle it is important to remember that first castle to use local electricity, as such it is not as gloomy as others in Europe. I did not take many pictures as there are so many tourist on the inside during guided tours but be sure to see the Arms Room and see a collection 4000 weapons and the Honor Stairs/Hall of Honor a central courtyard with ornate decorations. The inside features beautiful wood finishes, stained glass and a vast art collection.
In 1947, King Michael I left Peles for the last time via the Sinaia rail station. Since the installation of a communist government by Stalin he had been on a “Royal Strike” and refused to sign bills into law. He was summoned to Bucharest, where at gunpoint he was ordered to leave. To further nudge him the government told him they would kill 1000 students they held in captivity. Cut off from any loyal troops (and there were still many units supporting him) the king was forced to abdicate and lived in exile until his returned during the 90’s.
Nicolae Ceausescu did not like the residence, as such the communist authorities allowed the property to fall into disrepair. With the primary reason to visit the town gone, Sinaia fell into a long period of decline. The property is once again in the hands of the Royal Family, who lease it to the state and it has been impeccably restored.
Further Reading
- A great article about the last king of Romania, Michael I can be found here.
- Princess Ileana of Romania, a one time resident of the castle was instrumental in creating the Girl Guides of Romania, after spending much of her childhood in the Sinaia mountains. You can read more about her in my article about Bran Castle!
- Princess Ileana’s mother Marie of Romania (nee, Edinburgh), and her her husband Ferdinand I both passed away at Peles. You can read more about the last true Queen of Romania in my article about Bran Castle!
- King Carol I, was a war hero and Romanian patriot. Although a foreigner he quickly led his country to glory and adopted their customs. He is the creator of Peles a symbol of Romanian pride and the most enduring of monarchs. His son Ferdinand was in fact adopted into the familly to become his heir.
Conclusion
If you are anything like me, your visit to the Sinaia will illicit more questions than answers. After a visit to Peles castle, you will find your next hour or two engulfed in a furtive research about the life of the Romanian Royal family. There may only have been four kings, but make for an awfully confusing and interesting portrait of a Romanian state searching for its identity. Post-communist Romania is still searching for this identity, the country has been rocked by so much tragedy that many are cynical about the future but it seems that all Romanians agree on one thing… Peles is the finest of all Romania’s castles as a smile lights up their faces. As such it is clear to me that Sinaia is part of that long lost identity.
