Sibiu – The Saxon Heart of Transylvania
Walking to my hostel from the train station in Sibiu, I could not believe the scene unfurling in front of me. The picture seared in my memory was the exact cityscape I had imagined in my mind before my visit, a Transylvania of old. The sheer marvel of the multicoloured Saxon buildings had drawn me in, without any trace of touristic sheen. I thought to myself that this could be the most authentically beautiful place I had ever seen!
*The only thing that ever broke the illusion was the dominoes pizza near the main square*
Table of Contents
Geography
The city of Sibiu, built on the Cibin river, is located in a flat depression at the edge of the Carpathian Mountain chain. Due to the city’s location at the geographical center of Romania, the city had become an important transit point for the trade of goods thought the country. Mountain passes connect the north of Romania to Wallachia via Sibiu making it a hub of sorts for freight and truck traffic.
Generally speaking the city consists of an Upper Town, where the public squares are located and a Lower Town, just below the cathedral. The Upper Town was the location of the first fortifications of Sibiu and the location of its best public spaces, the Grand, the Small and the Huet squares.
A Brief History of Sibiu
After the Roman invasion of Dacia by Emperor Trajan, a city called Cedonia (later Cibinium) was established where Sibiu Stands today. Looking to repopulate their lands, the kings of Hungary invited Saxon Germans settlers into Transylvania during the 12th century onward. One of the settlements they re-founded was Sibiu (Hermannstadt in German). The Tartar Mongols devastated Sibui, as well as the rest of Hungary, in 1241. As a result of this event the citadel was constructed to protect the city. By 1376 the city had become an important trading center and a total of 19 guilds were established in the city. During this time high ranking Saxons controlled the city, as well as the whole of Transylvania, through a council called the Universitas Saxorum. During Saxon-Hungarian rule, it repelled several sieges by Ottoman troops.
The whole of Transylvania became a vassal state of the Ottoman Empire in 1541. The Turks withdrew from Hungary in 1699 after sustained pressure from the Austrian Empire. As with the rest of Transylvania, Sibiu became part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The territory was formally ruled by Hungarian princes and Saxons but the ethnic composition of the city had shifted towards a more Romanian “Vlach” ethnicity. The city served as a capital of the Principality of Transylvania and important developments happened around this time. Firstly the Romanian orthodox church was given status and secondly the Transylvanian Diet was established.
After the First World War, the city would be incorporated in the Kingdom of Romania, although the Saxons were still the dominant ethnicity. This would change after the Second World War. A fascist dictatorship under Ion Antonescu overthrew the Monarchy of King Carol II and joined the Axis powers. This was reversed when the king’s son Michael I took back power and switched sides, but it was already too late. Russia set its sights on the Balkans and installed a communist regime under Nicolae Ceaușescu. This regime was so brutal that it would almost destroy Romania (some argue it did). The ethnic Germans fled and another proud culture, that of the Transylvanian Saxons was lost in the Second Great War. Only some measly 2000 remained behind.
In 1989, the communist government was overthrown and Romania became a corrupt democracy with many members of the old regime holding to power. But it is a Transylvanian Saxon, one mayor of Sibiu called called Klaus Iohannis, president of Romania that gives many hope for the future.
Extra Information about Transylvania
At the time Transylvania was called Siebenbürgen, German for the “The Seven Citadels”. These were: Bistriţa (Bistritz), Braşov (Kronstadt), Cluj (Klausenburg), Mediaş (Mediasch), Sebes (Mühlbach), Sibiu (Hermannstadt) and Sighişoara (Schassburg).
As the one time capital of Transylvania, the city would become the most German of the Transylvanian cities.
What to do in Sibui?
Any visit to Sibiu should begin in the Grand Square. As the center of Sibiu it sits centered on the High Town. Recently renovated it has been used since the 15th century as a public place. In the square you will find the tourism office located in a ornate circular baroque building, the Holy Trinity Roman Catholic Church and the council tower. The church dates from 1726 and is one of the few catholic churches found in the city. The reformation hit the city hard and most of the population turned to new church denominations such as the Lutheran religion. As such, the Catholics were left without a home for a long stretch of years. This large public space is host to many events throughout the year including the annual Christmas Market. Many of the buildings the surround the square are old palaces of the landed elite. One such building worth visiting is the Brukenthal Palace, named after Samuel von Brukenthal a former governor of Transylvania. Today it houses his art collection.
From a gate under the tower you can enter into the small square (Piața Mică). Although the public space is of a lesser area then than of the Grand Square, it is even more beautiful. If you are interested you can climb up to the top of the council tower for a view of both public spaces. The 13th century tower itself was once part of the second ring of city fortification. From these heights you will get a comanding view of the Lutheran Cathedral. The four turrets on the church steeple indicate that the town was one that practiced the death sentence, this prominent position allowed any traveler heading into the city to know that they should behave. The Gothic church began construction in 1371 and was completed in 1520. The religious structure is the burial place of many important citizens of Sibiu such as the previously mentioned Baron Brukenthal. Just in front of the cathedral you will find Huet square, a gateway that was once part of the early fortifications leads to the Lower Town.
The square is surrounded by colourful German Guild Halls, now converted to restaurants with terraces. From the center of the square you can see the spires of towers rising from every direction. For those interested you can find a museum housed in Sibiu’s first pharmacy, dating from 1568.
In the center of the square is a cobblestone road heading towards downward towards the lower town, dividing the square in half. The square is traversed by in iron structure called the bridge of lies. It is the oldest iron bridge in Romania, cast in 1859, and has beautiful detailing on the ironwork.
North of the old town you will find a rectangular park with the remnants of the old city wall. Many of the distinct towers still remain and walking along the wall can be a pleasant experience. Make sure to walk down Strada Nicolae Bălcescu. This lively pedestrian street has many patios and stately buildings.
One of the most important buildings in the old town is the Holy Trinity Cathedral, the Romanian Church of Sibiu. Completed in 1904, it is one of the newest additions to the city, but boy does it make a big splash. The Neo-byzantine dome and spires inspire an oriental flavor more often seen in synagogues than in churches. The masonry exterior consists of yellow and red brick, layered to give it an interesting colour. Many buildings in this part of the city have pretty courtyards so do poke your head inside for a quick peak.
Finally we come to the last major part of the city, the Lower Town. Located just north of the Cathedral, a building that looms above it ominously. This is where most of the merchants once lived and, although less stately, the rustic and packed two-story buildings give the area sheen of medieval authenticity. To access the area you can pass thought the gate in Huet square or go down the “Stairs passage”. The later is a must visit location, it consists of a narrow passageway in the shadow of the Lutheran Cathedral. Ine must pass under flying a series of elegant buttresses to reach the Upper or Lower towns. At the bottom of the stairs you will find the Golden Barrel (Butoiul de Aur), the oldest restaurant in Romania. I sat down to have a drink here during my stay in Sibiu and did not realize this information until I was writing this blog post.
Conclusion
This post may be shorter than many others I have written, but do no take it as a sign that you should only spend a day here. Sibiu is a city that should be explored in as many days as possible in order to savour and appreciate the culture it exudes. This is a city of ambience and no mere blog post can capture the feeling of walking the streets of this city!
