Šibenik – Three Forts and Ice Cream
Šibenik is a personal favourite of mine. Unlike many of its urban contemporaries located on the Dalmatian coast, it lacks the large hordes of tourists. This allows for a nice change of pace from the busy old towns of Split and Zadar. The people here are friendly, much more so than the rest of Croatia. I suppose not having hordes of drunken Australians thrashing your old town helps!
Table of Contents
Geography
Sibenik is located in an inlet that connects the Krka River to the Adriatic Sea. This inlet is an estuary, where the port of Sibinik is enclosed in a large bay and is separated by the harsh sea by strips of the mainland folding around it on all sides. Of course, the exception to this blanket of mainland is a narrow channel just west of the city that allows ships to sail in and out. As such it is one of the best protected ports in the country and a strategic asset.
The city sits half way between the important Dalmatian cities of Zadar and Split. To the east, up the river, is Krka National Park. This are is known for its beautiful waterfalls and ancient ruins.
A Brief History Lesson
Šibenik has the distinction of being founded solely by the Croats, instead of the other peoples of Antiquity (Romans, Greeks…) unlike other nearby cities such as Zadar, Trogir and Split.
Medieval Period
The town was founded sometime in the 9th century as a Slavic (Croatian) alternative to the large ports of Split and Zadar, at this time controlled by the Byzantine Empire. Although the Byzantines were allied the Croatians, the later wanted independent access to link their kingdom, located in the hinterland of Dalmatia, to the Adriatic Sea. As such the city grew quickly to briefly becoming the Croatian capital in 1066. After this, the city would fall into a period of occupation that would last until the creation Democratic Croatia in 1991.
Venice was the first to conquer the city in 1116 and was quickly followed by The Byzantine Empire and then Hungary. The city was then exchanged several between the three, although the main competition was between Hungary and Venice. Hungary had the legitimate claim to the land though a personal union that made it the Kingdom of Croatia-Hungary.
Venice and the Renaissance
In 1412 the city, now named Sebenico, became part of the Republic of Venice and re-entered a period of importance as the center of Venice’s salt trade. During this time a large part of the city’s renaissance architecture was built including the St. James cathedral, the most important renaissance building in the country. These buildings were designed by Italian architects, hence why the city looks so Italian in style.
At first Venice built defensive structure fearing the Slavs but then as the Ottomans advanced into the Balkans, they built them to protect against the Turkish. Hence during this period the bulk of both the land and sea fortifications were completed including the fortress of St. Nicholas (sea), St John (land) and Šubićevac (land).
Austria, Yugoslavia and The Modern Era
Venice fell to Austria in 1797 and was incorporated in the Habsburg Kingdom of Dalmatia. Like most of its Dalmatian contemporaries the city stagnated under Austrian rule. This changed with the election of the first Croatian mayor in 1872. In 1895 the city became the first to use alternating current street lights.
The city was used as a Naval base for the Austrian Empire during the First World War. After the war, the city was occupied by Italy, this lasted until 1921 when they gave up their claim to Dalmatia to the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. During the Second Word War the city was again occupied by Italy along with their partner in crime Germany. The city was liberated by the Partisans in 1944 and reincorporated into the socialist state of Yugoslavia.
The city including the Cathedral roof was heavily damaged during the War of Independence (1991 – 1995). Early in the war, the city was besieged and outgunned but managed to hold out. In 1995 the Croatian Army swept the area and danger was eliminated.
A Day In Sibenik
I arrived in the city by bus and was greeted by a blistering early summer heat. Walking along the water, I came across the Church of St. Francis at the edge of the old town. There is a small museum here but it will not be of particular interest to the common traveller.
Both a walk though the old town or along the waterfront towards the church of St. James will prove particularly attractive. The old town is well preserved and only a few buildings shatter the illusion traditional bliss.
Eventually you will arrive in a plaza with a large domed church, the Cathedral of Sibenik. Although small in stature, this public space is considered to be the beating heart of the city. Of course, the centerpiece of the square is the cathedral itself. It began construction in 1431 but was not consecrated until 1555. For those with a sharp eye, you may have noticed the missing bell tower… your eyes do not deceive you it is hard to find. The city wall used to pass near the church and the bell tower was incorporated as part of this wall.
From the cathedral, the town spreads on upwards and you will be climbing up stone steps from here if you wish to continue seeing the town. A good place to stop for a rest along the way to the hilltop fortress is the Benedictine Monastery of St. Luce. The main building dates 1639 but other Romanesque elements go back to the 12th century. Although there is a small museum on site, the real gem of the complex is the beautiful courtyard with its luxuriant gardens. In the center is a cafe, with chairs. I noticed they were selling ice cream and on my return back down to the cathedral (after from jumping from fortress to fortress along the towns peaks) I stopped for a cone. Sitting at a table I noticed that the girl serving the ice cream, a local, was checking me out, something that greatly flattered my ego.
For some reason this pattern repeated itself throughout the city, so I decided that either my smile was endearing or they were laughing at me! I will never know, but upon further reflection they must have been laughing at me as I was dressed my shorts and ballcap in the early summer when the locals were mostly wearing jeans, I looked like such a tourist! Anyhow, one thing that I can confirm is that the people of Šibenik are friendly, especially compared to the rest of Croatia.
At the top of the hill dominating the town is St. Michael Fortress, the oldest of the three landward forts. From this point you will be able to see the other forts, Barone and St. John’s. Visiting there will allow you witness the evolution of military fortifications over a period of over 500 years.
The castle takes its name from a church once located on this hill. It is not to be confused with the church of St. Anne, found along with a small cemetery to the south flank of the fortress. The castle was built in the early medieval era and although improvement were made by Venice it was still referred to as the old fortress. The city survived a brutal siege by Venetians thanks to this fortress in 1378.
Today the complex houses an amphitheatre in its courtyard. From the the top of the fortress you will be privy to a spectacular view of the old town and the bay.
My next destination was the Barone Fortress. I raced down from St. Micheal’s and started back up towards it. This larger star shaped complex was erected along with the fortress of St. John during the Venetian period. The star shape was meant to better resist artillery fire. At the time the city pleaded to Venice to improve the city fortifications as St. Micheal’s military design was outdated no longer sufficient to defend the city. Terrified of a possible Ottoman advance, they again asked for funds and were denied by Venice. No longer willing to wait, the citizens raised the funds themselves and built it in 58 days.
Their fears were justified, in 1646, shortly after the two forts were completed, the Ottomans besieged the city. In 1647, they returned with a 25 000 man army, the largest single army to enter Dalmatia since the Romans. This action was part of the Cretan War and the city was subjected to a brutal month long siege.
Today the fortress has been renovated and serves as a public space.
The last land fortress and the furthest from the town is the castle of St. John. Located to the North East of Barone, it is similar to Barone and built in a star pattern. The castles form a triangular defence that uses the natural hills of Sibenik. Although the view from this fortress is good, the condition of the structure is in worst shape than the two other. Both Barone and St. Michael’s have benefited from substantial renovations to turn them into useful public spaces. It is also smaller than Barone, as such I would only recommend it if you have time for all three. After I finished here I went for my ice cream! It was well deserved!
Before you leave there is one last thing you should do, charter a boat the the entrance of the Sibenik Chanel (St. Anthony Channel) to visit the Fortress of St. Nicholas. The seaward fortification was built on an island by the Venetians in the 16th century in a triangular to defend against seaward attacks. The fort is built of stone and brick and is a nice place to hang out for an hour or two in the afternoon.
Day Trips
Krka National Park
This national park is less know than its waterfall covered cousin, Plitvice Lakes National Park, but is well worth the time spent to explore it. The main sights include the Skradinski buk, a large karst waterfall and the Visovac Monastery, a pretty stone building sitting on an island in the river. Other sights include Kamičak, a ruined fort with views of a canyon.
Keep in mind that unlike Plitvice, you can swim at Krka National Park.
Dalmatian Ethnographic Village & Beach Resorts
Just to the south west of Sibenik you will find a historical replica of a traditional Dalmatian village. Although the “village” is a bit of a tourist trap catering to the beach resorts nearby, it is pretty and offers and insight on dalmatian cuisine and culinary culture though its large on site restaurant.
Knin
This town, lying at the base of the Krka River and the Diatric Alps, was once the capital of Croatia. A visit today will necessarily involve a visit to the imposing Knin fortress.
Primošten
I confess, I did not visit this town. Although I wish I had after seeing it glimmering over the Adriatic from the bus window. The city built on an island linked to the mainland by a causeway. The old town is dominated by a large distinctive church at the top of a hill and is known for its vineyards.
Conclusion
Sibenik is the lesser known of the Dalmatian old towns. But seeing the proliferation of beach resorts nearby made me question how the old town was so devoid of tourists. Anyhow, I like to get away from the crowds so I was not bothered. For those going to Split and Zadar, make the stop to Sibenik, you wont regret it. The fortifications are a great example of the evolution of military architecture and one of the best examples of the Stato da Màr – the defensive fortification system of Venice.
