Sherbrooke, Lennoxville, Compton and the Industrial-Academic Heartland of Old Quebec – An Introduction to the Eastern Townships (Part 1)
In this wild region of Canada, a thick fall foliage blankets the rolling hills, the succession of which, is only broken by crystal clear lakes and quaint towns. People come from all over to gawk at the beautiful scenery. Although the Eastern Counties are a vast region, this post will concentrate on the south eastern portion of the counties, and predominantly focus on the cities of Sherbrooke and Lennoxville.
Please see the following posts for more information on the different geographical areas of the Eastern Townships:
- Magog, Orford and the Land of the Lakes – An Introduction to the Eastern Townships (Part 2)
- From Stanstead to Coaticook with a Stop at Mount Pinnacle – An Introduction to the Eastern Townships (Part 3)
- Lac-Mégantic and the Mont-Mégantic National Park – An Introduction to the Eastern Townships (Part 4)
- Masonville, Saint-Benoît-du-Lac and Owl’s Head – Exploring Lake Memphremagog’s Southern Flank
Table of Contents
Geography
Located in the eastern reaches of Quebec, where the border almost touches upon Maine and New Hampshire. It is geographically similar to the northern reaches of those state, being part of the Appalachian hills system that runs along the north-eastern part of North America. The Eastern Townships are know for their self-reliance, loyalty to the crown, culinary tradition and bilingual character shaped by waves of both French and English settlers.
History
Early Settlement
These territories were originally the home of the Abenaki, an Algonquian tribe allied with the French Settlers of New-France. At that time there was no French settlement in the townships but “Grandes-Fourches” better known as Sherbrooke today was settled by their allies. After the Seven Years’ War (French and Indians War for US residents), the whole of New-France was granted to the British.
American Revolution and the Loyalists
In 1783, the American Revolution came to an end, changing the counties forever. A first wave of Loyalists came to the Townships during and after the war and settled on the Seigneurs land (these lands were still part of the French Seigniorial system. The Loyalists defied the Quebec governors encouragements to move west. A settlement was reached with the seignior and the new settlers payed them a small fee for the use of the land. In 1791 this system was abolished and replaced with a system of Cantons or Townships – Hence the name Eastern Townships (and at first there were 95 of them). This meant that the land could be freely purchased. This encouraged a second wave of Loyalist settlement to begin, mostly from New England but also of Gallo-Scottish or English origins as well.
Industrial growth would come shortly thereafter by the 1820s, the region was equipped with an impressive road network. This encouraged a wave of francophone migration from other parts of Quebec, one what would only accelerate with the construction of the Grand Trunk Railway between Montréal and Portland, Maine, in 1853. During the 19th century, the townships saw the development of many industries, notably textiles, mining, hydro power as well as pulp and paper (amongst other mills and foundries). Anglophones ceased to be the majority after the 1870’s
20th Century and the Modern Era
During the 20th century Sherbrooke surpassed all the other town in the region to become the leading center of industry. It is in the counties that Mr. Bombardier invented the snowmobile. Sherbrooke also became a hub for university culture (both in French and English), something thing that will be discussed later.
At the end of the 20th century Quebec made controversial efforts to minimize the importance of the now diminutive English community. The eastern counties were broken up into several districts. The principle cities covered in this post are part of the Estrie region, a name that has no historic meaning in relation to the land. The old name before 1981 was Cantons de L’Est a name that literally translates to Eastern Townships a direct translation and a nod to a complex and bilingual area of Quebec. The name may have changed but you can still trace back the old Loyalist roots of the area in the New England and English styled architecture and the unique town names.
Today the Sherbrooke-Lennoxville corridor is home to multiple universities, making it an an intellectual powerhouse. Unfortunately there is little employment opportunities in the city and many of the city’s young professionals move to Montreal. Despite this the start of each school year brings a fresh crop of youth to rejuvenate the city – likely keeping it alive!
Exploring the Eastern Townships (Part 1)
The sights covered in this post will be found in the following locations:
- Sherbrooke
- Lennoxville
- Compton
- Valcourt
Sherbrooke
The industrial giant of Eastern Quebec, Sherbrooke has fallen on hard times. Once called the Queen of the Eastern Townships, the city was named after John Coape Sherbrooke a Lieutenant Governor of Nova Scotia renowned for his role in the war of 1812. The city may be beautiful but business is struggling, an empty storefront along rue Wellington (the main street) are testament to an unfortunate state of affairs. The region is a hub for skiers and you can find the stone Shrine of the Sacred Heart de Beauvoir outside of town. Speaking of skying, Mont-Bellevue, a ski hill just outside of town offers a great hike to its top where you can see the city from a cross at the top of the hill. After completer some runs at the hill, you can ski right into town for a beer!
The town of Sherbrooke itself revolves around the Magog river. In an area called “Les Grandes Fourches”, this watercourse reaches the Saint-François river, a confluence of two streams. Thus the core of the city was founded here and the power of the Magog Falls was harnessed though industrial mills and power dams. A settlement was first built in 1802 when a pioneer from Vermont opened up a series of mills. In the 1840’s the city became a major center of Canadian textiles and the site of the first cotton plant in Canada.
In typical Quebec fashion the English speaking population provided the capital to develop industry and French Canadians the manpower. In 1939, the Royals visited Sherbrooke, at the time one of the premier cities in Canada. Unfortunately the rest of the 20th century saw the decline of industry. Fortunately the city is an educational powerhouse with eight institutions and 40,000 students to fill the void.
Today the older parts of the town are laid out at both sides of the Magog falls, a basin shaped area. The architecture in this part of town is either Victorian or New England style.
North Sherbrooke
On the north side of the Grandes Fourches-Magog Falls, you will find much of the city’s New England like heritage. This part of the city revolves around Dufferin Street, a minor artery that serves as a cultural hub rather than a commercial one like on Wellington Street. One of the main attractions is the the “Beau Art” (fine arts) museum, a historic society building made of stone. Another is the Plymouth-Trinity United Church, a New England styled church that almost belongs in Vermont. Dating from 1835, its massive white spire is a town landmark. Looking south at the downtown core from Dufferin, you will get a great view of the Cathedral towering above the city.
To the north of this street you will find the Sherbrooke Hussars military office. This regimental headquarters has a tank in the front yard so theres that!
Finally you will find the Winter Prison, dating from 1865 , it is Sherbrooke’s most celebrated ruins. When I was in Trois Rivieres, an important town with a Similar size to Sherbrooke, I took a tour of their prison with one of the original guards (a highly recommended experience I must add!). When on this tour I asked if the Prison in Trois Rivieres was modular since it was a carbon copy of the one in Sherbrooke. The guard responded that Sherbrooke Winter Prison was actually the model prison for all of Quebec when they began to set up their penal system, as such it is the original. Tours of the ruins are seldom offered but you you have the chance to explore it take it!
Magog River, Lake of Nations and Murale Circuit
The Magog River Circuit offers a great view of the Magog Falls as well as access to the Sherbrooke Science center. Starting from the bottom of the Falls at Dufferin street, a riverside pathway will allow you to work your way up to the Lake of Nations for a view of a massive jet/water feature and a market built into the old Sherbrooke train station. The entire boardwalk is built as a catwalk allowing you to get into the gritty industrial feel of this part of the city. On the south side of the river a series of masonry warehouses and mills looms menacingly over you.
While walking around the start of the pathway on Dufferin Street you will notice a series of 18 pretty murals/frescos depicting scenes from the old town. More of the funky painting can be found scattered in the area surrounding the Magog river.
If you decide to walk down the opposite way to the confluence of both rivers you will have access to another stunning viewpoint. This area is a little rougher and littered with empty car parks and decaying concrete but is still worth the look.
An overpass near the end of the Magog river will give you a full view of the powerful river stream.
The above mentioned path leading to the lake will take you across to the falls.
The top lake area is less interesting then the falls and the river gorge but can still be worth your time if you wish to check out the market.
South Sherbrooke
South Sherbrook is divided in two parts, a lower town built around the commercial artery of Wellington Street and the Mont Bellevue Neighborhood home to the cathedral. On this street you will find the lively student bars of Sherbrooke and the Siboire microbrewery, it has opened a branch in Montreal but is native to the Townships. Also keep an eye out for the elegant Granada Theater.
A cluster of buildings worth noting leading up to the Cathedral include a courthouse and the old city hall, perhaps the most beautiful building in the Eastern Townships. In 1870, a public market existed in this e=area, before the construction of the present building at the start of the 20th century.
Although this is a fantastic public space, with students often congregating to the area with their books, the cathedral is only a short walk from here
At the top of the hill you will find the castle like roman Catholic Archdiocese of Sherbrooke, the massive old seminary of s=Sherbrook and the cathedral of st. Micheal. Although it look old it was only completed in 1957. This building dominates the town and can be seen from any angle.
Another important commercial artery in South Sherbrooke is King Street West. The boulevard is home to many stately building as well as the war memorial and offered a fantastic view of the oposite side of the river when driving long it.
Mount Bellevue
This ski hill doubles as a family friendly hiking area during the summer. You can either hike up or park your car in a lot only a few hundred meters from the top of the hill. From here you will get a great view of the city below.
At the top of the hill you will find a massive streel cross, one of the city’s many landmarks.
Lennoxville
Just south of Sherbrooke is one of the last remaining Anglophone strongholds in Quebec. The town is split evenly among French and English speakers. While Sherbrooke host to the the francophone university, Lennoxville is host to Bishop’s university the only English language university outside of Montreal. The town is named after Charles Lennox, 4th Duke of Richmond, then governor general of Canada . Surprisingly, Jefferson Davis lived here after serving his sentence for treason. There is little in town but a church and a few businesses. The real point of visiting the town is to walk the university grounds.
Bishops university was established in 1843 by the Anglican church and was affiliated with University of Oxford and the University of Cambridge. Since then the college has graduated fifteen Rhodes scholars. The beautiful masonry college buildings has been host to several film production. Any visit to the campus must start at McGreer Hall dating from 1846, it is the crown jewell of the campus. There are many other 19th and 20th century masonry buildings, including the St. Mark’s Chapel (1857) and Old Library and Archives (1909).
Other things to note include the Old Lennoxville Golf Club, one of the oldest in Canada is located on the premises on the university as well as the Centennial Theater, providing English entertainment to residents of the Townships. If you are lucky to visit during the season, make sure to catch a football game, a large part of the university culture.
After the visit to the university, take off to the Golden Lion Pub for a pint! One of the oldest microbreweries in Quebec it is a popular and lively student nightlife and hangout spot.
Compton
This small agrarian community is an easy one to dismiss out of hand, I for one have driven past it many a times without giving it much of a thought. But it is in this simple community where one of Canada’s foremost political figure was shaped – I am talking about the Liberal Prime Minister Louis St. Laurent (1948-1957), one of the defining figures of the Canadian Cold War political scene. The quaint pastoral setting was the backdrop to his life as his dad ran a commerce, a general store, in town. His family lived in this complex was was immersed in the intricacies of Eastern Township life.
The 1843 building complex is considered a fine example of the Eastern Townships as colonized by the Americans and the British during the the 19th century. The property was expropriated by the Federal Government, who turned it into a local museum. Yet government is not exactly efficient and unfortunately the property is only open for tours on summer Sundays, so plan around this peculiarity.
You will find the main home separate from the general store. Although on the Conservative side I particularly like Louis and his brand of politics, in my humble opinion he is a much overlooked figure in Canadian history and learning about the man and his humble origins can be enlightening. In my option he was a much better leader then the highly touted Pierre Elliott Trudeau and is deserving of more recognition.
Valcourt
This small Quebec town north of Sherbooke is an old loyalist town once called Ely. In 1965 the Quebec government abruptly changed the name to Valcourt. There is little to see here with the exception of the J. Armand Bombardier museum, exploring the invention and production of one of Canada’s great winter pastimes, the snowmobile.
Conclusion
Once you visit the Eastern Townships you will find yourself already planning your return. The cities here have a level of life that are seldom seen in small communities. Take your time and visit at your own pace, the counties will always be there to greet you. A drive down those old country roads among the falling leaves will greet you with new surprise around every corner.
