Shanghai – The Bustling Metropolis of New China
China’s economic powerhouse, Shanghai is more then the sum of its skyscrapers. Beneath the thin veil of glass and steel lies a truly unique world metropolis. Thus when one evokes the name Shanghai, an image of tall slender skyscraper clustered on the Bund river appears. Shanghai is much the modern city that you would imagine but it retains a few memento’s of the past that it is not devoid of charm.
Table of Contents
A Brief History
Although Shanghai has been inhabited since ancient times, the city was nothing more than a small fishing port for most of its history, leaving room for nearby cities to take the reins. The transformation that took place during the 19th century would turn it into a rich seaport and eventually a modern metropolis, teaming with life on every corner. The name of Shanghai literally translates to “By the Sea” an apt description for one of China’s greatest city’s.
Imperial China
At the start of the imperial age, Shanghai was overshadowed by a city now considered part of the greater Shanghai area. In 746 Qinglong Town (Qingpu District) was founded under the Tang Dynasty. During the late Song dynasty the center of trade slowly began to move upstream and Shanghai began to grow in importance. By 1074, it was considered a market town.
During the Ming dynasty, a city wall was constructed (1554). It protected it from the raids of Japanese pirates, allowing the city a measure of protection. During the Qing dynasty, restrictions were lifted on ship’s leaving to visit foreign ports a signature policy put in place during the Ming dynasty and the city became a port town of regional importance.
International Port
During the course of the 19th century Shanghai grew rapidly after attracting the gaze of European merchants. During the First Opium War, the British occupied the city. After the war the Treaty of Nanking forced China to open its borders to European trade, thus reversing the massive trade deficit that was caused by exporting its product but not importing foreign goods. Five ports were opened Shanghai, Canton (Guangzhou), Ningpo (Ningbo), Fuchow (Fuzhou), and Amoy (Xiamen). It also ceded Hong Kong Island to the British. Outside the walls of Shanghai the foreign powers caved their own neighborhoods and set up shop.
Modern China
By 1914, the old city wall was dismantled and foreign corporations were building factories in the city. It was fast becoming one of the most technologically advanced cities on the Asian continent. In 1921 the Communist party of China was founded in the French concession in the city and by 1927 the Chinese Nationalism movement began to take place in the city. The late 1920’s and early 1930’s were the city’s golden age. It became the firth largest city in the world and the most important in Asia. It had a diverse foreign population including many White Russians, escaping the horrors of the Civil War.
In 1932, Japan invaded China and began a reign of terror that still haunts foreign relations between both nations. Shanghai saw much destruction outside the foreign districts as ten’s of thousands of civilians were murdered. In 1937, during the Battle of Shanghai the city was brought under Japanese rule and by 1941 even those were brought under Japanese dominion. Although ethnic Chinese civilians suffered the most, including starvation all citizens of the city suffered from horrendous war crimes. One of the few bright spots during this time was the establishment of the Shanghai ghetto, although interned in this camp, many European Jews were able to survive the war. Many arrived from Lithuania, where the console gave them visa’s. The city was liberated by China in 1945.
In 1949 the city fell to the communists and many firms moved their Asian headquarters to Hong Kong. The city continued to grow under communist rule, mainly due to the massive growth of the agricultural industry. The 1960’s and 70’s were a difficult time for the city. Its citizens were persecuted during the Cultural Revolution and many wrongly put to death or imprisoned. The central government also heavily taxed the city and invested little back into it. Things would not change until the 1990’s when Deng Xiaoping initiated economic reforms. The financial district (Lujiazui) was created and foreign capital reintroduced. Today it is know for its skyscrapers!
What to do in Shanghai?
Visit Qinglong Town (Qingpu District)
This suburb of Shanghai is host to two of Shanhai’s old town’s. The Zhujiajiao Ancient Town, a waterfront town dating from the 1700’s is one of the prettiest in the region. It is known for its traditional architecture and boating. Make sure to see its monumental stone bridge, the prettiest in the city. The other is the Jinze Ancient Town, dating from the 8th century. It is more peaceful and less busy than the others and is know for its varied architecture and pretty bridges. Lastly you should visit the Qushui Garden, dating 1745 it is one of five traditional gardens in the city.
Visit a Silk Factory in Nearby Suzhou
A visit to Shanghai is not complete without understanding the Chinese textile industry built around the production of Silk. An important part of Chinese culture since time immemorial, Silk is still an important export for the nation. There are many establishments that will give you tours. Once of them, the Suzhou No. 1 Silk Mill has been in business since 1926.
A walk through of the plant involves a look at the silkworms that produce the material, you can find them munching on mulberry tree leaves and spinning their silk web into cocoons. These cocoons are then sorted, stretched and weaved into elaborate patterns. From there you will be left will soft garments for your purchase.
Look Down from the Financial District
At the hear of the financial district you will find the Shanghai World Financial Center (SWFC) better known as the “Bottle Opener” building. This building was once one of the tallest in Asia but is no longer even the latest in Shanghai. It lost that title to the nearby Shanghai tower. The building takes the shape of a Bottle Opener where an opening in the top floors reveals an observation deck. This deck allows a view of the rest of the buddings in the district as well as the Bund river.
The skyscraper measures a staggering 492m in height and was completed in 2008.
Cruise the Bund Riverfront (or walk it!)
The Bund river is the beating heart of the city. As such it should be no surprise that a popular activity is to cruise the river at night and even during the day. On the eastern side of the river you will see the soaring towers of the Shanghai financial district and on the opposite you will find a fine collection 20th century buildings lining the river (western Bank). At night the financial district is light up and i strongly recommend taking a boat out on the river.
The western side of the Bund is in fact the location of the old financial district of Shanghai. Many of the buildings were completed by foreign banks competing in the rich Chinese market (but there is also a Bank of China building!). Construction of many of these took place over the course of the 1920’s.
Important buildings on the western side include the Art Deco Metropole Hotel, located a short walk from the river, the Site of the First National Congress of the Communist Party of China and the stalinist Shanghai Exhibition Centre located much further inland. You can also visit the colonial era Moller Villa or view the pretty architecture of the Russian consulate. On the river itself you will find the Waibaidu Bridge, China’s first steel bridge dating from 1907. This building has witnessed its fair share of history including an assassination attempt in 1915.
The architecture on this side of the Bund is extremely varied with many buildings fusing both Asian and western styles (see shikumen). The river serves as a European styled boardwalk park, offering citizens an escape from the busy street. Buildings of note include the Neoclassical HSBC building, the Art Deco Sassoon House and the Bank of China buildings fusing both western as well as eastern styles. The later looks stunted as Victor Sassoon, owner of Sassoon House forbid the construction of anything taller than his building on his side of the Bund.
Some of my personal favorites include the domed Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank building (built in 1923) and The Customs House (built in 1927). The customs house has a large clock at its top and is one of the landmarks of the street. Other favorites include Russo-Chinese Bank Building, Shanghai Club Buildings, pretty, yet diminutive structures.
Of course this side of the Bund will give you the best view of the endless see of skyscrapers cropping up on both sides of the river.
Don’t forget to catch a glimpse of the new financial quarter rising from the eastern side of the Bund!
Shop on Nanjing Road
The main road on the Eastern side of the bund is Nanjing Road, named after the old imperial capital of China. Here you will find most of the western luxury brands.
The street also happens to be one of the Busiest such streets in the world. It is pedestrianized along its length.
You can still find several important and historic department stored dating from the 1920’s and 1930’s but much of the street has been replaced by towering modern skyscrapers.
The road is divided in both eastern and western sections, historically located withing the western consecrations and outside of it.
Enjoy shopping, although expect to spend more than expected, western nations don’t sell their products at a discount!
Explore Ancient Temples
There is a wealth of temples, churches and pagodas to explore in Shanghai including the Songjiang Square Pagoda (11th century), Mahavira Hall at Zhenru Temple (13th century), Longhua Pagoda (10th century), the St. Ignatius Roman Catholic Cathedral (20th century) and the City God Temple of Shanghai in the Old City of Nanshi (15th century). One of the most impressive of these is the Jade Buddha Temple, the most important Buddhist temple in the city.
The temple was founded in 1882 with the importation of two statues Buddha made of jade. One is lying down and the other is sitting. They were shipped over from Burma
The temple contains a pretty courtyard and a great hall, the jade Buddhas are contained in their own chamber upstairs and can be seen at an additional cost. It the main hall has three golden statues of Buddha siting on a throne and the small of burning incenses is quite strong.
Visit Stunning Gardens in the Nanshi Old Town
The most popular of the four old town of Shanghai, Nanshi is often just referred to as Old town. This was in fact the “real” old Shanghai, the one that was once surrounded by the Ming Era wall. Those walls were torn down in 1912 and replaced with a circular ring road. A small remaining section of wall can be found at the Dàjìng Gé Pavillon.
Like many traditional urban cores, the area is a popular destination for shops and touristic attractions. A part of this old town is built on stilts and surrounded by a pond in a maze like configuration. This is a great spot to pick up souvenirs and cheap knockoffs of items such as watches. I picked up a copy of the little red book here, this document is the outline of Mao’s philosophy that would lead to the cultural revolution, an era filled with unimaginable atrocities and privations.
At the heart of the district you will find the Old City Temple butter known as City God Temple. Like many of the walled cities of ancient China, there was always a temple dedicated to the god(s) elevated to protector of the city. It was dedicated in 1403 and it is the popularity of this temple that attracted the construction of the merchant houses around it. It was used contentiously until the cultural revolution shut it down but it has now been restored. During the Japanese occupation, a new temple was constructed since worshipers in the foreign concessions could not cross over to visit the temple. Eventually life returned to the old temple and the new one was demolished.
From this part of town you will be given a fantastic vantage point to observe the skyscrapers new shanghai in the distance. You can see them from the gardens but for a better view you should get a vantage point from the top of one of the buildings.
The centerpiece of the district is the Yu Gardens. Built in 1559 during the reign of the Ming emperors. It was built by the Chinese governor of Shanghai for his ailing father. It abuts the historic Huxinting Teahouse, my favorite of the stilt buildings.
One of the most attractive features in the Pavilion of Listening to Billows, connected across a large pond by ways of an attractive bridge. This pond is at the center of the garden and a walkway connects the visitor to a series of attractions around the edge of the water.
Look out for the “Exquisite Jade Rock” a porous stone rumored to be bound for the emperor’s palace in Beijing during the 11th century. The boat sunk but the rock was recovered and placed in the garden.
Another important building is Dianchun Hall, a 19th century building once home to the Small Swords Society. This political and paramilitary organization sought to topple the Qing dynasty and install a republican government.
Make sure to visit Sansui Hall, one of the most imposing buildings in the garden and enjoy the rock out and beautiful vegetation scattered around the garden.
I have included a few more pictures of the gardens below!
Conclusion
This coastal behemoth can be a lot to take in. Trust me I know! But under its fast paced exterior lies a cultured and sophisticated city. Take your time walking down the shore of the Bund and attempt to picture the once serene finishing village that once stood here and open your eyes to see what it has become.
