Sevilla (Seville) – More than Just Feria
Andalusia, this evocative region of Spain brings forwards dreams of bull fighting, fertile farmland, fine wine, precipitous cliffs, dreamy whitewashed homes and stunning dark haired beauties dancing under the night’s sky! The historic capital city of this region many not have the cliff and whitewashed homes of Rhonda, but is no exception to many of those things. The colorful buildings of the old town and the Neo-moorish architecture give the city the romantic charm of an old El-Cid tale!
Table of Contents
- Geographical Cliff Notes
- A Brief History of the City
- What to do in Seville!
- South Seville
- Conclusion
Geographical Cliff Notes
Located in the south of Spain, on a fertile plain of the River Guadalquivir, Sevilla is but seven meters above sea level. The city is split in two by a river canal with the old town being located in the east side and the newer town on the west side.
A Brief History of the City
Mythology
The city has its founding solidly anchored in the legends of antiquity. Both Cadiz and Seville are rumored to have been Founded by Heracles as trading posts after passing though the Straits of Gibraltar. Later the settlement came under Phoenician rule where it was associated with the god Melqart, lord of Tyre. In Punic culture Melqart is interchangeable with Heracles (Hercules). Melqart was especially worshiped in nearby Cadiz.
Antiquity
One of the major centers of Punic (Phoenician) Culture, the city dates from the 8th century B.C. The Phoenician were seafaring people from present day Lebanon, like the Greeks they set up colonies all through the Mediterranean and founded Carthage the arch-nemesis of Rome. After the fall of the Phoenician homeland, Carthage became the center of Punic life but the colony would soon pass over to Rome after a series of conflicts called the Punic Wars.
The Romans named the city Hispalis and under their rule it became an important market town in Roman Spain, Hispania. Walls were built during the Roman Occupation, a testament to the importance of the city within the Empire.
Antiquity would end with the conquest of the city by various barbarian tribes during the 5th and 6th century, including: The Vandals and the Visigoths.
Moorish Era
Ravaged by the above mentioned incursions the Moors, a Muslim people from north Africa took the city of Hispalis in 712. It would be the capital of the Moorish civilization from the 8th-13th century when it was overtaken by Granada in importance. Moorish architectural influence can seen reflected in many of the buildings throughout the city including the city walls and the cathedral bell-tower amongst others.
Kingdom of Castile and Spain
in 1248, the city was retaken by Ferdinand III of Castile (and León!), a christian Kingdom originating in the north of Spain. These crusaders soon adapted to the Moorish ways. Many new buildings were constructed wither in Gothic, the Mudéjar style or a mix of both. Mudéjar refers to a style of Islamic Architecture used and created by Christian artisans, In 1391 a antisemitic pogrom took place and was directed upon the once tolerated Sheperdic Jews. By 1478 the inquisition took a sudden hold of the city, all synagogues were converted to churches and the Jewish community forced to convert.
In 1492, the city would become well positioned to take advantage of Columbus’s discovery of the New World. By decree, all goods had to move though the city, a sort of Monopoly. It lead to the rapid rise of the city but the monopoly would be broken by the end of the 16th century when nearby Cadiz was authorized as a port of trade. The silting of the Guadalquivir in the 1620’s and a nasty bout of plague would set the city back much further and it take centuries to recover.
Modern Era
In the 19th century, the city would chart a comeback, becoming a large industrial center including the manufacturing of tobacco. The old city walls were demolished to make way for railways and a massive construction boom overtook the city. In 1929 the city hosted the 1929 the city hosted the Ibero-American Exposition, a World’s Fair, building large new public spaces for the event. It had staked its name on modernization but the Spanish Civil War keep the city isolated from the outside world, slowing the process. In 1936, the city was quickly taken by Francisco Franco‘s fascist forces and the city was mostly spared the horror of that war, minus some reprisals at the onset of the conflict. Franco kept Spain out of the Second World War. In 1982 the city was visited by Pope John Paul II.
Today Seville has come out of its isolationist slump and is once again one of the most modern and influential cities in Spain.
Fun Fact!
There are more Opera’s in Seville than any other in Europe as witnessed by a 2012 survey that pegged the number at 153.
What to do in Seville!
I arrived in Seville on a cheap (and rather unplanned) flight from Malta. As such I did not realize that it was Feria a popular fair held in Seville, as such most places were already booked and I struggled to find a hostel.
West of the Canal
Football, Feria, Sherry and Tapas
On the west side of the River Guadalquivir Canal, you will find a collection of bars, clubs and restaurants along the water. This part of the city is fairly modern and offers little to the average tourist but for pictures of the old town from the river and the carriage museum. I made a Mexican friend while wandering the old town and we went to a pub on the west side to catch a soccer (football) match. Sevilla’s team got beaten pretty badly and the locals were morose, so we decided it was time to spit. Wandering further into the neighborhood we decided to check out the Feria at the Fair Grounds located south-west.
This annual two week event, roughly translating to the Seville Fair, begins Saturday/Sunday at midnight, after Semana Santa (or Easter Holy Week) until the next Saturday. The fairgrounds are located on a massive plot of land and is access by stunning gates and lit by hundreds of lights.
Although a more modern “Thrill Rides and Cotton Candy” fair exists, I was here to see a more traditional side of Sevilla. As such I headed out to the massive tent city, where the adult party was being held. The fair started in 1846 as a livestock display and has turned into quite the elaborate arrangement. Inside the colorful tents you will find patios where one can drink Sherry, a fine fortified wine from the city of Jerez and eat Tapas. You will also find small dance floors where couples dance the traditional sevillanas, to Flamenco music. Its basically many dances and restaurants under different roofs and the part atmosphere is fantastic. At one point fireworks started adding to the display.
Old Town and the Real Alcazar of Seville
I entered Seville via the Jerez Gate, briefly passing the Alfonso Hotel (to be discussed later). I was surprised at first with how clean and colorful the city was this was especially true when I walked from the fountain, north-west down the Avenue de la Constitución. This wide boulevard was one of this expanded during the 19th century and now serves as one of the main arteries for the city, for pedestrians and trams alike. The road leads to the Ayuntamiento de Sevilla (City Hall), a pretty baroque building fronted by a plaza with a statue of Ferdinand III of Castile. This Spanish king expanded Castile’s borders south conquering the old Moorish towns of Seville and Cordoba, he died in Seville and is buried at the cathedral.
Half way to the city hall, you will find a large plaza with one of the most important buildings in Seville, the Cathedral. Completed in 1528, a UNESCO Site, it is largest Gothic building in the world and the fourth largest church in the world. One of the most important buildings of the 16th century, it holds the remains of many of Castile’s Rulers. At one time this was an Almohad (Moorish) mosque, before being being converted to a christian church during the 13th century. Remnants of that mosque can be found throughout the complex, only slightly disguised by the Christian additions. On the north side of the building you will find a stunning courtyard accessed by a pretty Moorish entryway. This is the courtyard of the old mosque, and this will be obvious to the casual history lover when on the premises. If you look up while in the courtyard you will see the Giralda tower, a cleverly reused minaret tower offering a view of the city skyline. This is one of two spots for panoramas in the city.
On the south side of the cathedral you will find the Archivo de Indias, a UNESCO inscribed archive building with records from Colonial Spain. The square around the cathedral contains many elegant structure as well as a thick stone wall, this is the Real Alcatraz of Seville.
The thick stone walls hide one of the true gems of Spain, a green oasis of calm in the middle of Moorish Hispania. The series of palaces that lie within are some of the prettiest in the country and the upper floors of the complex are still occupied by the royal family when they come to visit. You will enter through the red painted Puerta del León, the Gate of the Lion. The complex of buildings should be at the top of your list of things to do in Seville and several hours dedicated to your visit, but first take the time to explore the neighborhood to the east joining it. The tightly packed streets hug the Alcazar wall and are very picturesque. One specific historic square, that of Patio de Banderas is well worth the visit. For culture vultures the Hospital Los Venerables is a great baroque building housing an art museum as well as a library.
When you first enter, you will come face with the Patio de Doncellas and the Patio de la Montería squares. Already you will notice the superior quality of the architecture, the rough defensive walls of the exterior giving way to to the finely decorated alcoves of the interior courtyards. Like the cathedral, elements of the Moorish Alcazar still remain and are worth seeing, while the Castilian additions blend seamlessly into each other. The palace was built on the remains of a Visigoth Basilica, but traces of that building have now been eradicated.
The finest of these palaces, the Salón de Embajadores, is a must see. This palace was established by Peter of Castile, and subsequent additions were made by Charles V. The name of the courtyard made reference to the maidens, a story where christian Iberia was forced to pay a tribute of 100 virgins to the moors. Located at the heart of the complex it was featured in the Ridley Scott Film Kingdom of Heaven. It is the prettiest of the courtyards.
On the inside, visitors should marvel at the fine ceilings in the Hall of the Ambassadors as well as the 14th century gate.
Dont worry, if you are burned out of Neo-Moorish and Italianate architecture you will always find some Gothic somewhere in the complex!
Behind all these palaces is a massive triangular plot of land that serves as walled gardens with many water features and pools of water. It is my favorite part of the complex and one could waste an entire afternoon here.
Roaming wild thoughout the complex is a proud bird fit for royalty, the peacock! Like the St. Naum Monastery in Ohrid, these big fowl do as they please. Don’t mess with them!
Ma favorite part of the complex is the water fountain pictured below.
On a warm day the gardens here really offer a refuge from the hear. I just hung out for a while, drank some water and read my book for a bit. I had a bus to catch in the evening and plenty of time to kill. What a place to do it!
After visiting the Alcazar you could go north east to visit the Caños de Carmona, a section of roman aqueduct that was operational until 1912 before its destruction during the modernization of the city. A better choice would be to venture into the old town and admire the narrow alleys and pretty colorful buildings.
There are many public spaces to see here including the Metropol Parasol, Alameda de Hércules and the Plaza del Cabildo. The Parasol is a large (and very ugly, don’t believe the architects that will tell you otherwise) wooden structure that fills the square. Its only redeeming feature is that it offers a great view of the old town. L’Alameda de Hércules is known for its nightlife and lastly Plaza del Cabildo is just a pretty yet small circular square.
Don’t miss the baroque Hospital de la Caridad, built in the 17th century it is now a museum/chapel.
Finally make your way to the river, here you will find the Plaza de toros, a massive bullfighting right dating from 1761 and still in operation. Take the time to dip your feet in its sandy pit. Although a walk along the river can be pretty, especially during the summer when the colorful buildings on the other side of the river reflect in the shimmering water. You will see the Sevilla Tower in the distance, a modern, red clad, skyscraper that has become somewhat controversial in recent years, It is Seville’s only Skyscraper. The real attraction is the Torre del Oro, the most prominent remnant of the menacing city wall that once protected the city. The tower itself dated from 1220.
South Seville
University, Hotel Alfonso XIII, Palacio de San Telmo
In the south end of the city, just outside the Alcazar, you will find a large amount of greenspace housing many of Seville’s important public buildings such as the university. Speaking of which the ornate, yet square, baroque structure is one of the largest buildings in this part of the city. Originally called the Colegio Santa María de Jesús it was founded in 1505, as a religious education institution. Today it is one of the top universities in Spain. Just to the west you will find the Porta de Jerez metro stop, useful for those looking to use the east-west public transit. This is also the site of a public space of the same name with a large public fountain inaugurated for the Words Fair’s. You will often find artists here. Between the university and the metro stop you will find the magnificent Hotel Alfonso XIII. Lake many buildings in this part of the city it is a relic of the 1929 Worlds Fair (starting to see a pattern!). It is named after the Spanish king of the same name, who hosted an exquisite banquet at the hotel on the occasion of the fair. It is worth a peak inside, one of my favorite old school hotels in the world, along with the Marriott in Cairo.
Just south of the hotel you will find the Palacio de San Telmo. The colorful baroque building is a staple of the city. Conceived during the 17th century, it is currently a government building but can be visited, the richly decorated interior being even more splendid then its fine exterior.
Not far from the university you will find many important cultural institutions such as the circular shaped Opera (Teatro Lope de Vega) and the Casa de la Ciencia (A science.history museum).
Parque de María Luisa and Plaza De España
The crown jewel of Seville’s Word Fair pavilion architecture can be found at the Plaza De España, a stunning public space surrounded by a semi-circular colonnaded building and a landmark fountain.
Surrounding the place you will find a large stretch of public parks, with statues and well manicured gardens offering a much needed relief from the summer heat. On the edge of the park you will find a modern aquarium and at its southern terminus a network of old pavilion buildings built around the gardens of the Plaza America and converted to new uses. These include the Achitectural Museum of Sevilla, the Pabellón Real and the Arts and Traditions Museum. This part of the park contains many terraces and small bars! Worth stopping for a quick drink!
Conclusion
Seville is a pretty, yet inaccessible city. The people here seem to dislike outsiders, as if they were immune to their charms. Decades of drunk Brits seem to have put off the towns people on edge and since Sevilla is wealthier than its other Andalusian counterparts in can afford to shun them. This is unfortunate, as the city is stunning, but did contribute to why I enjoyed my time in the relaxed, yet poorer, city of Cádiz so much. The people are just friendlier!
