Salzburg – The Hills are Alive With the Sound of Music

Everyone knows Salzburg, it is the quintessential place the comes to mind when thinking about the Austrian Alps. Not only was the city (and the verdant green hills that surround it) featured in the famed flick, The Sound of Music but it has been one of the de-facto tourism destinations when visiting the Alps. Due to this fact, the city tends to be a little expensive and draws rather older tourists, fear not however with the help of hostels and discount grocery stores, you can avoid being priced out.

Fun Fact

The Von Trapp featured so prominently in the Sound of Music settled in Stowe, Vermont where you will find a luxury lodge bearing their name!

Table of Contents

• Geography
• A Brief History
  • Antiquity
  • Bavaria and the Medieval Era
  • Holy Roman Empire
  • Austrian Annexation
  • World Wars and the Modern Era
• What to do in Salzburg?
  • East of the Salzach
    • Mirabell Palace and Other Noteworthy Buildings
    • Dreifaltigkeitskirche and the St. Sebastian’s Cemetery
    • Mozart’s Residence
    • Linzer Gasse Platzl and Steingasse
    • Kapuziner Hill (Franziskischlössl, Basteiweg, Imbergstiege and the Kapuzinerberg Monastery)
    • Imlauer Hotel Rooftop Bar
    • Explore the Area around the Train Station
  • West of the Salzach
    • Mozart’s Birthplace
    • Winkler Terrace (Mönchsberg):
    • Getreidegasse
    • Salzburg Cathedral and Residenzplatz
    • Mozartplatz and the Zeugwartstöckl
    • Fortress Hohensalzburg
    • St. Peter’s Abbey
    • Kollegienkirche
    • Stift Nonnberg
    • Altes Rathaus
  • Schloss Hellbrunn
• Day Trips
  • Berchtesgaden
  • Hallstatt
• Conclusion

Table of Contents

• Geography
• A Brief History
  • Antiquity
  • Bavaria and the Medieval Era
  • Holy Roman Empire
  • Austrian Annexation
  • World Wars and the Modern Era
• What to do in Salzburg?
  • East of the Salzach
    • Mirabell Palace and Other Noteworthy Buildings
    • Dreifaltigkeitskirche and the St. Sebastian’s Cemetery
    • Mozart’s Residence
    • Linzer Gasse Platzl and Steingasse
    • Kapuziner Hill (Franziskischlössl, Basteiweg, Imbergstiege and the Kapuzinerberg Monastery)
    • Imlauer Hotel Rooftop Bar
    • Explore the Area around the Train Station
  • West of the Salzach
    • Mozart’s Birthplace
    • Winkler Terrace (Mönchsberg):
    • Getreidegasse
    • Salzburg Cathedral and Residenzplatz
    • Mozartplatz and the Zeugwartstöckl
    • Fortress Hohensalzburg
    • St. Peter’s Abbey
    • Kollegienkirche
    • Stift Nonnberg
    • Altes Rathaus
  • Schloss Hellbrunn
• Day Trips
  • Berchtesgaden
  • Hallstatt
• Conclusion

Geography

Located in north-west Austria, Salzburg is built on the banks of the River Salzach. The location is considered to be part of the northern boundary of the Alps, as such the south side of the city consists of mountains and to the north we find rolling plains.

A Brief History

Sazlburg has a long history stretchering back to a time before antiquity, where Neolithic Age (New Stone Age) people live in hillforts. Although the city blossomed under the auspices of the bishops, developing the Baroque style of architecture you see today, their rule was tyrannical and much blood was spilled. Its beauty disguises the blood spilled on its cobbled streets. As such lets begin with a history that is more interesting that one would surmise.

Antiquity

Going by the Latin name Juvavum, in Roman times, the city emerged from the Celtic settlements that preceded it when sometime near 15 BC the Roman Empire merged the dispersed communities into one city. It was upgraded to a municipium in 45 AD. With the barbarian migrations putting pressure on Rome, something had to give and by the 7th century the city had declined into ruins.

Bavaria and the Medieval Era

Salzburg was re-founded in 696, as an episcopal see, and later became a seat of the archbishop in 798. It was part of Bavaria at this time. Due to its geographical position both on river, and near salt mines (a valuable commodity at this time), the city developed into an important center. Its name actually derives from this fact as Salzburg means “Salt-Castle” or Salis Burgium! Like many town in germany, a castle was built over the river to extract a toll for the passing salt barges. The Hohensalzburg Fortress, was built in 1077 by Archbishop Gebhard for this purpose and he also made it his residence.

The city gained its independence from Bavaria in the 14th century. As part of the Holy Roman Empire, Salzburg became the seat of the Archbishopric of Salzburg. It was also a “prince bishopric”.

Holy Roman Empire

Although Salzburg’s politic situation in the empire started off with relative calm, the 16th entury would see trouble for the bishopric. Not only did the protestant reformation prove destabilizing but the city was occupied during the German Peasants’ War in 1525.. Throughout Europe, this event was violently put down by the aristocracy with malice, but it would take time before they could organize. In the meanwhile the Archbishop had to flee to the safety of the fortress, where a three months ensued.

The 17th century was kinder to the city, with a large increase in wealth being recorded. Italian architects were brought in to rebuild the center in Baroque architecture, a new architecture pioneered by the Jesuits to combat the protestant movements appeal. Unfortunately later princes took more drastic measures to combat the protestants and on 1731 Archbishop Count Leopold Anton von Firmian signed an Edict of Expulsion, forcing protestants to recant their non-Catholic beliefs. Over 21,475 refusedand were expelled from the city, many taking refuge in East Prussia under offer from king Friedrich Wilhelm I of Prussia.

Less somber then deportations is the fact that during the 18th century, archbishop Hieronymus Graf von Colloredo was the patron of Mozart before the former was fired and left for Vienna in 1781.

In 1803, the archbishopric was secularized by Napoleon and given to his cronies.

Austrian Annexation

In 1805, Salzburg was annexed by the Austrian Empire with neighboring Berchtesgaden. In 1809, Austria was defeated by Napoleon at Wagram and Salzburg was transferred back to Bavaria. This would not last long as after Napoleons defeat and the Congress of Vienna, the Treaty of Munich was signed in 1816 and Salzburg was returned to Austria, but without Rupertigau and Berchtesgaden.

As an interesting aside Salzburg was an early innovator in tourism with the advent of the Romantic Era.

World Wars and the Modern Era

After the dissolution of the Austro-Hungarian Empire during the First World War the city was incorporated into the Austrian Republic.

In 1938, before the start of the of the Second World War, the city along with all of Austria was absorbed into Germany during the Anschluss. The impatient Germans could not even wait for their rigged referendum on Austria’s independence and German troops moved into the city a mere day before the event. From this day forward terror reigned supreme, for dissidents, Jews and other minorities. They were rounded up and sent to concentration camps and synagogues were destroyed.

As the Allies turned back the tide of the Axis, they bombed the city. destroying over 7,600 houses and killing 550 inhabitants (for context that is a whooping 46 percent of the city’s buildings. Fortunatly the city was liberated by the US army rather then the Soviets. 1955 us toups leave neut.

The city served as the setting of the well known musical film, The Sound of Music.

What to do in Salzburg?

For the purpose of this exercise we will be using the Salzach river as dividing line between what to do in the traditional old town and the new town with the exception of Schloss Hellbrunn which finds itself tucked into its own little corner of the city.

East of the Salzach

Although not as pretty as the old town, the east bank of the river holds many important buildings both stately and of architecture significance.

Mirabell Palace and Other Noteworthy Buildings

Life in this district revolves around this massive 17th century palace along with its iconic gardens featuring a large fountain.

Built in 1606 by prince-archbishop Wolf Dietrich, Mirabelle stands for beauty in Latin. Its gardens give a great view of the castle above the town! The garden itself is lined by important buildings such as the Great Hall of the Stiftung Mozarteum, a music venue that radiates charm in its interior.

From the gardens, to the north you will find a Croatian church, a crooked tree that looks like its crawling over the grass, expensive hotels such as the Sheritan and a series of odd statues.

Dreifaltigkeitskirche and the St. Sebastian’s Cemetery

This beautiful baroque church, with its iconic double towers and central dome was completed in 1702. Located in the southern part of the neighbourhood, near a public square, it is hard to miss. The cemetery for its part houses many important people as well as some of Mozart’s relatives.

Mozart’s Residence

Located south of the Mirabelle palace, this old residence of the famed musician is now home to a host of artifacts and instruments.

Linzer Gasse Platzl and Steingasse

This first of these is a busy pedestrian street is home to many businesses and is one of the more lively ones in the district. The second is an intersecting street, more of a narrow cobbled alley with an old stone gate and some interesting buildings.

Kapuziner Hill (Franziskischlössl, Basteiweg, Imbergstiege and the Kapuzinerberg Monastery)

From the Linzer Gasse Platzl, you can take a part up Kapuziner Hill. This gently wooded giant sits opposite to Salzburg’s castle and old town across the river. The winding path will take you up past a fortified gate and to theKapuzinerberg Monastery.

From here you can follow the old zigzagging bastion walls around for great views of the river, the alps and the city.

If desired you can continue up the the Franziskischlössl tower at the very top!

Be sure to come down via the Imbergstiege, the stairway to the mountain dating from the Middle Ages and improved in 1671 by Prince Archbishop Max Gandolf, adding the pretty roof and passageway.

Imlauer Hotel Rooftop Bar

One of the many rooftop terraces that dot the city. This one offers great views of the fortress!

Explore the Area around the Train Station

Although, allied bombing cratered much of the area around Salzburg railway station, it is still worth a visit at the very least to see the station itself. Here you will find more modern architecture and a lot of fast food companies, big name hotels, as well as international restaurants.

West of the Salzach

This area is home to the old town, the best preserved part of the city of Salzburg.

Mozart’s Birthplace

As the name would indicate this home was the birthplace of the musical genius Mozart.

Winkler Terrace (Mönchsberg):

Offering perhaps the best views of the city, this viewpoint site at the west of the city on a high point accessible by an elevator. You will find the Museum der Moderne. Being the idiot I am I forgot to bring my camera! Next time!

Getreidegasse

The primary commercial artery of the city culminates at the Mönchsberg, where you will find a church. The street intersecting it has many of the late hour nightclubs and bars, including a pub called Murphy’s Law. Be forwarded though Salzburg is not much of a party city especially during the week.

Salzburg Cathedral and Residenzplatz

At the heart of the old town stands the city’s cathedral, surrounded by a large public square called the Residenzplatz. This public square sporting a baroque foundation dates from the 16th century. Surounding the square you will find many museums and structures of note including the Panorama Museum (a 19th century panorama of the city), the Kapitelschwemme fountain sitting eloquently under the castle and the Salzburger Weihnachtsmuseum, a collection of Christmas figures.

The marble cathedral for its part dates from the 17th century and sports the baroque style.

Mozartplatz and the Zeugwartstöckl

Adjoining the Residenzplatz, this square features a statue of the musical genius himself.

In the corner of the square, by the river you will find a strangely decorated building now how occupiedby governement offices. The stone building looks like a tower, and thats because it is. The structure was the first gate to be built on the left bank of the Salzach River in 1620 and is dedicated to Archangel Michael. at the beginning of the third city fortifications under Prince Archbishop Paris Graf von Lodron. The gate consisted of the Zeugwartstöckl, which has been preserved to this day, and the demolished gatehouse, the actual Michaelstor.

Fortress Hohensalzburg

One of the largest castle in Europe, this massive stone building sites atop the Festungsberg at an altitude of 506 meter. This is the most iconic building in the city so make sure you get to see it!

St. Peter’s Abbey

This beautiful catholic monastery and church has roots in the 7th century. It is tucked in a corner of the old town butting up against the rock of the hill that overlooks it. It is one of the least known attractions and is really hidden by its later day baroque façade. Inside its maze of squares is a cemetery and a stunning chapel carved right into the rock of the previously mentioned hill.

Kollegienkirche

Another one of the old towns iconic churches this baroque masterpiece is worth a quick stop off at the very least. Honnestly, it stands out even among all the beauty found in the old town!

Stift Nonnberg

This Benedictine monastery is located next to the castle, and for that reason it is mostly overlooked. Founded in the 8th century by Saint Rupert of Salzburg, it is the oldest continuously operating nunnery in the German-speaking world and a testament to Salzburg’s ancient roots.

Altes Rathaus

Other buildings of note include the old city hall. Known for its tall district baroque tower it can be seen from most alleyways in the old town. Use it to guide yourself if you get lost.

Schloss Hellbrunn

This beautiful castle featured in the Sound of Music is located in the south end of the city, outside of the walking distance of the downtown. You can access it by bus.

The yellow colored building itself dates from 1615 and was home of the Prince-Archbishops of Salzburg. One of these Markus Sittikus built the strange but wonderful Trick Fountains and the Grotto, a playful art display that is absolutely worth a visit.

Day Trips

One of Salzburg’s greatest strengths is its geographical position near the German border and other historically important communities as well as its proximity to the stunning natural beauty of the Alps.

Berchtesgaden

This German town is pretty sure, but it is also home to the famed Eagles Nest a home perched on a rocky cliff that was once built by the Nazi party for Hitler. This is an interesting part of history, albeit it is a little strange to visit it. To learn more you can click here.

Hallstatt

The best known Alpine town, it is so popular with Chinese tourists that it has been cloned back in China. Show it early as it gets busy! To learn more you can click here.

Conclusion

Salzburg is gorgeous, although a little dull due to its wealthier and older clientele, I still view it as a worthwhile endeavor to explore it but the city should find a way to attract those from other socioeconomic backgrounds before it becomes completely homogenized .