Salé – A Pirate’s Haven on the Barbary Coast
Sitting opposite to the capital city of Rabat on the banks of the Bou Regreg river, Salé is a sight for sore eyes. Once a rowdy corsair port, it is now a quiet refuge from the capital across the river. From Rabat you see endless rows of beautiful Muslim graves stretching out as far as the eye can see as well as imposing walls that would surely dissuade any invader. Due to the city’s geography, I had a hard time determining if Salé would require its own post or if it should be incorporated in with a post about Rabat. Yet Salé stands apart from Rabat with its own unique history as a piracy center. As such I have decided to have a separate post for this city.
Table of Contents
Geography
As previously mentioned, Salé is built on the north bank of the Bou Regreg river. The tramway from Rabat reaches the eastern extent of the old town near where the main city gate is located. To the west you will find the important Madrassa on a high point in the city and the seaborne fortifications down by the Atlantic ocean. Finally you will find the famous Salé graveyard to the south and west of the old town between the old town and the water.
A Brief History
Antiquity
For more information on the Phoenician and later Roman city of Chellah, please see my Rabat post. Chellah stands on the opposite bank from Salé and should not be confounded with it.
Berbers, Kingdom of Castille and the Almohads
Founded in 1030 by a Berber Dynasty, the city name is derived from Salah, son of Ham, son of Noah. Ruled by the Berber Almohad, the 12th century saw the constructed the Great Mosque of Salé, the third largest in Morocco, along with a slew of other important structures.
In September 1260 the Christian Kingdom of Castile, located in present day Spain, raided and occupied the city but they were quickly repulsed.
Republic of Salé (Barbary Pirates)
After the loss of Andalusia by the Moors, Salé rose in importance buoyed by the influx of Moorish refugees fleeing Spain, expelled by the Christian authorities. Thereafter the city developed as a hub for the Barbary Piracy. Over the course of the 17th century, the Moors founded the Republic of Salé, an independent corsair state. The city grew rich from their trade, especially the sale of slaves taken in raids on christian nations and it produced a redoubtable group of ruffians called the Salé Rovers, one of the most feared Barbary Pirate groups.
These raids did not always go noticed an in 1629, the French retaliated on the city.
Alawites, Colonial Era and Contemporary Morocco
In 1668, both Rabat and Sale were seized by the Alaouite dynasty and incorporated into the Kingdom of Morocco. In 1912, this part of the country was incorporated into the French protectorate, lasting until 1956. During the occupation Sale became a major center of national resistance, especially among the religious. In this vein activists attacked the Berber Customary Law allowing those communities to be governed by a more secular spirit of the law rather then Sharia.
The first demonstrations for independence against the French began in Salé. These protests would lead to the revival of an independent Moroccan Kingdom.
What to do in Salé
Sale is rather less developed then its larger cousin across the river (Rabat), yet its charm lies in this very fact. Away from the international hotel chains and colonial architecture is a place practically untouched by modernity.
Rabat-Salé Tram
The best part of the ride across the river by tram is the view of the city from the bridge crossing the river. Not only is this an affordable way to get to Sale from Rabat but it offers an incredible view.
Exploring the Old Town
Outside the Old Town
The tramway will drop you off right outside the colossal Bab el-Mrissa. The imposing entryway is one of the largest in Morocco and was built by the Marinid dynasty to commemorate the Berber victory over the Kingdom of Castile.
Across the large plaza facing the gate you will find a pretty stone railway aqueduct, a product of a more modern era. If you need a place to stop to go to the washroom this would be it. On the other side of it you will find a modern McDonald’s restaurant.
There is little to see outside of the city walls but modern marinas and the occasional monument.
Madrasa of Abu al-Hasan and the Great Mosque of Salé
At the westernmost point of the city, where the urban boundary meets a large graveyard and the Bastion des Larme, you will find the most iconic structure in the city and for many the primary reason to even come across to this city. Located at the city’s highest point, the mosque and its tower cut and imposing figure, yet it is the Madrasa that stands apart from the rest.
As a non-Muslim access to the mosque was of course blocked to me, so I wandered the surrounding streets.
On the south side of the Great Mosque you will find the entrance to both the Great Mosque and the Madrasa. The first iteration of the mosque’s roof collapsed and was rebuilt 700 French slaves. This mosque was expanded on after the repelling of the Castilian invasion where citizens seeking refuge in the mosque were themselves taken back to Spain as slaves. The most memorable of these additions came in 1342 when the Madrasa was built beside it.
A Madresa is nothing more then a religious school yet this school in particular is of significance not only due to its proximity to the great mosque. When you step inside its columned interior courtyard you will see why! The Moorish decor is not only omnipresent but rich in detail reminiscent of the palaces of Moorish Spain. On the floor lies beautiful zellij tilework and a (surprisingly) still operating central fountain. This is one the finest buildings of its kind in the county!
It was strange to me that I should be the only person in the building but alas Sale only receives a small portion of the tourists visiting Rabat. This was advantageous to me but I also found it rather sad.
Upstairs you will find a long hallway with living quarters or “Student Cells”. This area is less ornate but just as fascinating. Unfortunately access to the roof was closed during my visit so I could not get a birds eye view of the Great Mosque.
Looking out from the student cells you will be provided some fantastic views of Rabat in the distance and the streets below.
After my visit to the Madrasa, I toured around the streets around the mosque some more some some gorgeous views of the Great Mosque tower along with the ornate Moorish styled doorways and windows.
Markets and Streets of the Old Town
Exiting the Madrasa we were followed by a harmless but strange man but we were able to loose him in the maze of alleys. Visiting some of these is absolutely worthwhile. The old town of Rabat may be picture perfect, yet Sale still manages to retain a very authentic charm.
Wile walking around the multicolored buildings, make sure to keep an eye out for some of the ornate doors along the way.
Near the front of the old town, you will have the change to visit an authentic street market that is absolutely jammed packed.
Salé Cemetery, Walls and the Bastion des Larmes
One of the most impressive vestiges of the city’s past is the vestiges of its city walls, still in remarkable condition, especially after their recent renovations.
The most important of these structures is the Borj Adoumoue (Bastion des Larmes) at the western edge of the city, past hte Great Mosque and down by the water. Built after the Castilian invasion, this defensive structure is pretty cool due to its ocean battered ruinous appearance, the salty air having rusted away the abandoned cannons on its deck.
One of the coolest attactions is to vist the massive cemetery. Again this is not open to non-Muslims (or it may be a general restrictions, there was a language barrier!) but deploying my charm on the cemetery security I managed to convince them to let me walk in a few hundred meters.
Anyhow you can view the cemetery from walls and its it absolutely grandiose and seems to stretch out forever.
Absolutely unrelated but in the walls I found some strays, a mother and her pups, sleeping in a cupboard. It was very adorable.
Conclusion
Do not shy away from Sale if staring in Rabat. Not only is it just a quick tram ride way but it will give you a glimpse into a more conservative part of the country with the historical pedigree to keep you busy. Do beware that it is a smaller settlement then Rabat and there really is only enough to do for one day!
