Rouen – The Timber Framed Capital of Normandy
Geography and Introduction
The historic capital of Normandy straddles the meandering Seine river and is located south-east of Paris. The elegant river, not satisfied to simply empty itself into English Channel, then twists and turns forming large looped shaped bends before finally giving up and throwing itself into the channel near the French city of Le Havre.
The old town of Rouen is located on the north side of the Seine river and on the south side you find a much more recent iteration of the city.
Table of Contents
History
The city of Rouen was founded by Gaulic tribes. Along with the rest of Gaul, Rouen was invaded by Rome. The Romans renamed the city Rotomagus and it briefly became the second city of Roman Gaul after the city of Lugdunum (Lyon). After the fall of Roman Gaul to barbarian tribes, Rouen became the regional capital of Merovingian (Frankish) France. In 841, the city was overrun by the Normans and they would turn that city into their capital. The Normans were a mixed people, part Frankish and the other party Viking invaders, leftovers of the latter’s incursions in northern France.
The city and its “Donjon” (Dungeon) were home to the Dukes of Normandy until William the Conqueror moved their residence to his castle in nearby Caen, located in central Normandy. The city also had a reputation as a hub of France’s Jewry and 6000 of them called the city their own during the 12th century. These Jews were expelled by King Phillip V, only a century later. In 1150 the city was given its own charter, permitting a degree of self governance. This event would signal the beginning of the city’s rise.
In 1204, the French King Philip II Augustus took over Normandy. As part of the French kingdom the city was now privy to a monopoly on a lucrative river trade due to its position on the Seine river. Located halfway between Paris and Le Havre, Rouen would became an important medieval trading center and like many of the cities in Flanders and Brabant (North-Eastern France, Belgium and Holland), Rouen was a net producer of textiles, importing wool from England and sending its products to the fairs of Champagne for export as far south as Genoa and its maritime empire.
The 14th century saw the city at the peak of its powers. This prosperity would be shattered by the 100 Years War, a salvo of which saw the city captured by Henry V of England in 1419. The city did not go quietly with English prisoners being hanged from the wall and the Vivar general excommunicating the English king. In 1431 the English burned Joan of Arc at the stake and the city was recaptured by the French in 1449. The catholic bastion was besieged again 1541, unsuccessfully, during the French Wars of Religion.
During the Second World War the city served as a base for the German navy and as such the city was bombed by the allies on D-Day. The famous cathedral of Rouen was hit during this time but not destroyed. Fortunately unlike its contemporary Le Havre, most of its historic center remained intact after the war and can be enjoyed today.
What to do in Rouen?
Although Rouen is a historically important city with a large trove of heritage buildings (much of it from its medieval heyday!), it does not have the large number of attractions often associated with a city of its stature. Instead I would describe the city as one of atmosphere, it is a place to immerse yourself in the local culture. Old Rouen is host to 227 historical monuments and over 2000 timber frame houses, placing it 6th in France. This gives the city center a charm and ambiance not found just anywhere in France.
Although there are a few nice streets and sights on the south side of the city such as the red painted stone Saint-Sever church, this post will be focusing on the old town of Rouen located on the northside of the Seine.
Old Rouen
Any journey to Rouen should start at the Cathedral of Notre Dame de Rouen but since my bus dropped me off in South Rouen I had some walking to do. I crossed a bridge over the Seine and walked down Rue de la Republique, a major roadway dividing the north side in half. Making a small miscalculation I passed west down rue Alsace-Lorraine, a typical yet pretty 19th century street, missing the prettier medieval center located a block ahead. This was fortunate as when I turned north on Molliere Street towards l’Eglise St. Maclou, I ran across L’Aitre St. Maclou in a courtyard at the tail end of the church. Before entering I doubled back to explore the church. Surrounding it there are a wealth of colorful timber framed buildings from Rouen’s glorious medieval past.
The church was built in 1521 and is part of an ensemble of three (3) Gothic buildings that include the church of St Ouen, Notre Dame and St. Maclou.
Although typical of Gothic churches it has two features that set it apart. The first is the introduction of Renaissance elements in the construction of the church. This is due to the fact that it was constructed in a time of transition of Gothic to Renaissance architecture. The decoration of the church is macabre due to the roots of the church in the black plague (construction began in 1436)
After visiting the church I entered, l’Aitre Saint Maclou. This cemetery was located in the courtyard of what was once a roman villa. The medieval timber framed building that stands here today has detailed relief of skulls and bones on the outer wood relief. An ossuary was located here in 1348 after about of the plague decimated Rouen and the cemetery was overburdened. It was removed in the 1700’s but the above mentioned reliefs remind visitors of what once was.
To the north, following the Boulevard de la Republique you will find Church of St. Ouen, Rouen. This is the second church of Rouen, it started in 1318 it was interrupted by the 100 year war and completed in 1537. It is rather impressive and worth seeing
On the western side of Boulevard de la Republique, you will find the larger mass of Rouen’s old town. The central monument is the Cathedral, easily spotted by the massive “Tour de Beurre”, an addition to the building financed by the sale of indulgences on the consumption of butter during lent. Surrounding the cathedral are a maze of narrow streets and alleys filled with timber framed buildings and the Historical Jeanne d’Arc museum, obviously dedicated to the french figure.
The cathedral was built over the ruins of an earlier building destroyed during a Viking raid. The Viking leader and founder of the Duchy of Normandy Rollo, was baptized here in 915. The current building was begun in the 12th century and the facade of the cathedral was completed in the 16th century but additions continued throughout the years. The building was consecrated in 1063 by William the Conqueror. The building’s eclectic nature makes it unique and very interesting. The artist Claude Monet created a series of portraits based on the massive building. The most famous burial at the cathedral was that of Richard the Lionheart but many of Normandy’s rulers can be found interred here as well.
A fun fact is that for a brief period of four years, Rouen was the tallest building in the world!
From the front of the cathedral, you can walk down the Rue du Gros Horloge, the most famous street in the city. The timber framed buildings on each side of the street are home to many high end shops and small businesses. The center of the street is a belfry and covered passageway with a large astronomical clock dating from 1562 and a mechanism from the 14th century. At the center of the clock is a sun with 24 rays that shines brightly and can be noticed from far down the street.
Following the street west you will come to the place Vieux-Marché. The old center of commerce is missing the church of St. Vincent as it was bombed into the ground during the Second World War. In its place stands an ugly modern church. Surrounding the square is a series of half timbered buildings, in every colour and at the center a ruined foundation.
On May 30 1431 Joan of Arc was burned at the stake in this square, accused of witchcraft by the English and betrayed by her allies. A plaque commemorates this event.
Other interesting sights in Rouen include the Musée des Beaux-Arts, the Palais de Justice, the “Donjon”, the Temple Saint-Éloi Musée (a 16th century protestant church) and Le Secq des Tournelles. The church is one of my favorites in Normandy, with a distinctive black painted wood belfry, the Donjon is but a single tower left of the French donjon that replaced the Norman keep and the Secq is a collection of various historic ironwork displayed in the Church of Saint-Laurent. Out of all these attractions the latter is the most unique and interesting. Before leaving Rouen be sure to walk by the Seine on the opposite bank of the old town to admire a panorama of medieval church spires rising above the river bank.
Conclusion
Rouen, like many medieval centers, is no longer a leading center of France. Fortunately what remains will give you an overview of what urban Normandy was like during the 100 year war. Take in what you can and enjoy the fact that this is not simply a tourist trap – resident ghost town. Rouen is a living city and one that is surprisingly modern and hip.
