Rila Monastery – St. Ivan’s Paradise
I left Hostel Mostel in Sofia on a bus headed for the mountainous highlands of Rila. The road to the national park is a modern paved highway called the A3, the road is smooth and, a little hungover, I closed my eyes. When I woke, the flat landscape had given way an imposing mountain range. We were now off the main highway and we took a narrow two lane road up to the Monastery.
Table of Contents
- The Monastery Complex
- A Brief History
- Saint Ivan’s Cave
- Rila Monastery
- Other things to do in Rila National Park
- Conclusion
The Monastery Complex
The road twisted and turned up upwards following a natural gorge in between the rocky giants. The elevation above sea level of the complex is 1,147 m (3,763 ft), directly in the heart of the mountains, as such you have plenty of time to admire the natural environment. Since my visit was in late spring, the tips of the mountains were still snow capped and but the greenery had begun to reappear again.
When you finally reach the monastery, you will be greeted by an enclosed complex. This five story wall protects the central monastery and provides additional housing for the monks. The bus loop sits at the bottom of this wall but if you continue on the road it will bend around the monastery and continue up the mountain. In this upper portion you can find restaurants, hotels, small churches and the Cave of St. Ivan. I recommend starting at the cave so that you may better understand the man who would inspire the construction of this monastery, but first here is a history of the religious complex and the man monk himself!
A Brief History
St. Ivan the Hermit
Born in 876A.D, Ivan was a herder before becoming a monastery priest at the age of 25. Shortly after that, the young monk decided to abandon the life he had chosen, to live in solitude and prayer in the Rila Mountains. He deprived himself of everyday comforts, living in caves and formed a tight-knit relationship with nature. He is said to have performed miracles and the fame brought a band of followers. They set up camp near his cave and even though Ivan wanted to live in solitude they would ask him for his blessing. Word of Ivan’s deeds reached the Bulgarian Tsar Peter I and so, the king made the 450 km trek to come consult with the monk on spiritual matters. Ivan, not wanting to succumb to the vanity that the meeting might bring, only bowed to the Tsar in the distance. The Tsar tried to give the hermit gifts but the future saint refused, wanting the gold to go towards helping the poor.
Ivan is the Patron Saint of Bulgaria and is the author of St. Ivan’s testament, an import literary document for the nascent Bulgarian nation
The Monastery
The monastery was founded by the followers of St. Ivan in 927 A.D by students of the old monk. It was a natural evolution of their basic encampment at the foot of St. Ivan’s cave (as mentioned above) and served as a center of learning where monks would be educated. Although St. Ivan was not one for accepting charity, large contributions have been made to the institution by every Bulgarian ruler since Tsar Peter I.
Since its inception, the monastery has functioned as a repository of Bulgarian Culture. Important documents pertaining to Bulgarian culture and language were stored here during the occupation of the country by the Ottoman Empire. The complex was destroyed in the 19th century and partially rebuilt with money from all across Bulgaria, as such it is a perfect example of Bulgarian renaissance style. Some parts of the complex hail from earlier styles.
During the era of the Bulgarian National Revival it was the home of many Bulgarian revolutionaries such as Vassil Levski, Gotse Delchev and Peyo Yavorov, while they were in hiding.
Saint Ivan’s Cave
From the roadway you must complete a short hike to the cave. This walk offers a great view of the snow-capped mountains though the birch trees and lichen covered rocks. You will know when you reach the cave as there is a small stone chapel at the base of a staircase. Just outside the cave entrance is a wood framed, painted icon of St. Ivan and a place to deposit offerings.
The opening of the cave is narrow and you will have to crawl on your hand and knees to enter. Only a few can enter at a time, an exit takes you to an area above the cave where more exploring can take place.
One fork in the trail will lead you to the fountain of St. Ivan, a natural spring providing clean drinking water. I filled my water battle and although I’ve never taken well to spring water, this specific water was refreshing and delicious.
Rila Monastery
After your visit to the cave return to the monastery. Walk through the pentagonal wall section to reveal the totally enclosed interior of the structure. This is the most important cultural monument in all of Bulgaria and a UNESCO site.
Once inside the thick stone walls turn over to reveal detailed alcoves with collared reliefs. At the center of the complex is a large stone tower called the “Tower of Hrelyu”, named after a local feudal lord attached to a stunning central Church. This “Church of Nativity” is built in Byzantine style, it sports a total of five domes, with large one at center. The outer walls house a small history museum, 300 chambers, four chapels and a library. The library houses over 250 manuscripts and 9,000 printed matters.
Due to ongoing conservation efforts I could not take a picture of the inside of the main church. It is heavily decorated in typical orthodox style with gold and the valuable relics of St. Ivan.
The most remarkable part of the church is the hand painted fresco on the outside walls and ceilings depicting scenes from the bible. These include the likes of the Baptism of Jesus Christ, the Day of Judgment and the story of Adam and Eve. These paintings are spectacular and, even for someone as non-religious as me, were a lot of fun to look at. Even the top of the cupolas are painted.
Once you are finished examining the complex, stop off at one of the nearby restaurants for some authentic Bulgarian cuisine. I took a soup, since it was a cool spring day but choice is abundant. One of my dining mates had a large pork knuckle.
Other things to do in Rila National Park
Before you leave Rila National park, consider visiting the Seven Rila Lakes, a natural wonder of Bulgaria. These elevated bodies of water are a very popular destination due to their natural beauty.
Conclusion
Rila is a must for any traveller to Bulgaria. It is surprisingly easy to reach from Sofia and is a great place to begin your Bulgarian journey. It may be a long day trip there but it will be well worth the cost of admission.
