Riga – A Story of Triumph and Tragedy
The old Hanseatic port of Riga may be a tad run down and industrial in comparison with its contemporaries Vilnius and Tallinn, but do not be fooled, although lacking the slick facades of the former, it is actually the most interesting city in the Baltic region. This former lumber shipping port, rough and tumble, harvesting the thick forest of the hinterland, flourished to become one of architecturally capitals of the Art Nouveau movement.
Riga is by far Old Livonia’s greatest city and its most indispensable port!
Geography
Located on the Daugava river, were the stream reaches the Gulf of Riga, the capital of the Latvian state occupies a strategic position within the Baltic States.
A Brief History
Riga has a long and colourful past, I will try to summarize it as best as I can
Antiquity
The Daugava River has been used as a transportation since antiquity, serving as the Vikings’ Dvina-Dnieper navigation route to Byzantium (Constantinople). In the second century A.D the site of the present city was settled by the Livs, a Finnish people, that named it Duna Urbs.
The Medieval Ages, Hanseatic League and the Livonia Germans
This settlement developed in the medieval ages, growing rich from trade with the Vikings. The people lived off fishing and like most Baltic Rim cities traded in semi-precious stones like amber as well as raw material. As a testament to the importance of the city, the crusading German Order, the Livonians refer to the city as Portus Antiquus, the ancient port!
In 1158, Germans established a trading port at Riga and missionaries began converting the native Latvian population. These early efforts at conversion were not particularly successful and then the Germans began the process of conversion by the sword – sending crusaders! A first attempt in 1199 under Bishop Berthold unsuccessful and his contingent was defeated. Following this defeated an enraged Pope Innocent III called for a Baltic Crusade against the Livonians. Bishop Albert, a preacher from Lower Saxony, led a new expedition to Livonia with 500 men in the goal of creating a catholic theocracy in 1200. Capturing Riga, he would lead yearly expedition deeper into Livonia, a sort of perpetual crusade. He would found the cathedral found today to spread his religion as well as city walls to secure his possession. In 1202, he founded the Order of Livonian Brothers of the Sword. This organization would be the new state’s military arm and was open to both merchants and nobles of German decent. Although part of the same state, the Church would keep Riga under its control and two-thirds of all lands conquered, the Order would be granted but a third.
Albert was a wise man. Understanding the commercial value of the city (hence why he retained it), he schemed to have a papal bull declared stating that all Baltic trade should go through his city. He also had his own coinage minted. Riga was still in a precarious position at this time as it came into frequent assault from various tribes. He was not liked however and merchants clashed with the churches overbearing position, eventually gaining the right to self-administer Riga in 1221. By 1225, they no longer had to pay their taxes to the Bishop of Riga and they gained electoral rights to elect town councilmen. Albert would die in 1229.
In 1282, the city joined the Hanseatic League, a Baltic/Northern European trading organization, cementing the power of the merchants.
Holy Roman Empire, Poland, Sweden and Russia
In 1522, the city accepted the reformation and the city became protestant (in this case Lutheran)! After the fall of the Livonian order, Riga leveraged the situation to become a Free imperial city as part of the Holy Roman Empire in 1561. After 20 years with this status it became part of the Polish–Lithuanian Commonwealth by the Treaty of Drohiczyn, It would change hands again in 1621, during the Polish–Swedish War (as part of the Thirty Years’ War).
During this war, the city was captured by Gustavus Adolphus, King of Sweden. The kingdom of Poland was catholic and that of Sweden German Lutheran Protestantism, so it is only natural that the Swedes would try to add Livonia to the Realm. It was an important bulwark against the advancing Russian and would withstand a siege in 1656 as part of the Russo-Swedish War. The city was an important part of the Empire and would continue to hold a certain level of autonomy and respect. Russia was not to be deterred however.
During the Great Northern War, the Crossing of the Düna was fought nearby, defeating the Polish Lithuanian Commonwealth. However in 1710, Peter the Great besieged a city that wall ill with the plague, it capitulated. Peter was generous to Riga and allowed it to retain privileges. At the beginning of the 20th century Riga was one of the most important timber export ports in the Russian Empire and the third largest city. Germans were roughly half of the population and their language was that of Riga. This would soon change under Tsar Alexander III, a Russification process would take place against the minorities of the empire.
As the city industrialized Latvians moved from the countryside where they were but serfs for the German landowners in the search of work. This would lead to the Latvian National Awakening, poets, playwrights and newspapermen/women leading the revival of the Latvian language thought the country.
The First World War and Interbellum
With Russia’s defeat at the hands of Germany, and the Revolution (of 1917) that would follow, Riga/Latvia would make its play for independence, supported by an armed fleet of ships and the armed takeover of St. Petersburg courtesy of their friend Winston Churchill – the first friend of the Baltic People. Trade with Great Britain and Germany replaced that with Russia. Interbellum was a wonderful time, the city grew wealthy and Art Nouveau styled buildings sprung up. This would be the first time that ethnic Latvians could profit in this type of wealth.
Soviet Union and Modern Era
In 1940, Soviet Russia did a number on the city when they invaded Latvia, forcing their president Karlis Ulmanis to sign away the country. Outnumbered he obliged, and Latvia went down without a fight. Almost immediately deportations and arbitrary ares began with 15000 people deported in June of that alone. This was truly a reign of terror. The Nazi’s ruled from 1941-1944 and they targeted the Latvian Jews, walling them in the Riga Ghetto and killing most (a little known fact is that Stalin’s was also paranoid about Jews, ordering many deportations from Riga and totalled 131,500 humans across the Baltics). After the soviets retook the city the arbitrarily arrest restarted and the deportations entered a feverish pace. Many of the Baltic Germans has already vacated the city for Germany and those that were left were killed. The Russians replaced natives with Russians destroying the demographics of the city. Much of the city was bombed and new infrastructure had to be constructed. In 1989 it is estimated that the percentage of Latvians in Riga had fallen to a measly 36.5%, a low that it has since recovered from. With independence many Russians emigrated and Latvians are once again the majority.
Under Independence, Riga has developed as a tourism destination, yet is still struggling economically compared to its northern peer Tallinn. The Latvian people have much trauma still to recover from, yet time heals and it looks like Riga is once again poised to retake its throne. It may be a little rougher around the edges but Riga is a superb place!
Fun Fact
The City of Riga (and Latvia itself ) participated in the world’s longest human chain, called the Baltic Way. Organized in partnership with Estonia and Lithuania it was a peaceful protest displaying Baltic Solidarity against Soviet Oppression. Tallinn and Vilnius residents both playfully tease each other about which county is the start and what country is the end of this chain but poor Riga is always in the middle!
Transportation
Rail
Riga Central Station is located a short distance old town moat, just south-east of the old town. Since it is so accessible by foot, it is an excellent option for travellers attempting day trips. The station is known for its iconic clock tower and has been rebuilt many times in several different stile. The current station dates from 1965 and lacks the elegance of previous buildings. Bars and cafe’s exists in the interior and are usually quite lively, making this a pleasant station to depart from.
For those taking the train west, you will have the chance to cross the river over the iconic Riga Railway Bridge. Dating from 1871, and a survivor of bombings during two World Wars, it is known for its semicircular steel trusses, it is the last remaining rail crossing in the city.
Airport
Riga international airports is clean, modern and located relatively close to the city center, on the western bank of the Daugava River. It could be better served by transit. A hub for AirBaltic as well as low cost carriers such as WizzAir and Ryanair, it is a popular destination arrival point for travelers to the Baltic region.
Exploring Riga
Riga is nice and compact, as such it is easy to get around. The city is best seen on foot so that you may admire the fine architectural work, although some attractions in the suburbs may require some form of public transportation.
West Riga and Ķīpsala
On the other side of the Daugava river, you will get a breathtaking panoramic view of the city from the AB Dam Park. Beyond this, there is still plenty to see and do in Riga’s under the radar, west bank. The architectural style for one is very different, you will find many wood cottage type buildings and detached homes constructed in a style as you would find in nearby Jūrmala.
Ķīpsala
This waterfront neighborhood is rather quaint. Known for its cobblestone streets and waterfront wood cottages, it is a a wonderful place to explore. Apart from its phenomenal views of the city it is also home to the Žanis Lipke Memorial. This was once the location of the home of Žanis Lipke (Jānis Lipke), a Latvian dockworker that decided to help save Jews from the Ghetto. As tragedy befell the community, including friends, he took matters into his own hands and constructed a bunker under the woodshed that stood next to his house. The second iteration of this bunker housed 8-12 people at a time from 1942-1944. Germans were not kind to Latvians who helped Jews and Žanis Lipke was very away of the fate that would await him if he was found out. Zanis saved 40 Jews, a large number considering only 200 survived the war in Lavia. He was honoured as a Righteous Among the Nations and planted a tree in Jerusalem near the Yad Vashem, Holocaust memorial.
University of Latvia Botanical Garden
Dating from 1922, this is the oldest such institution in the country. It is also home to a large collection of tropical butterfly’s. Although not the most impressive of such institutions in the world it could be worth a visit if you are spending an extended period of time in the city!
Riga Radio and TV Tower
Believe it or not, Riga is home to the tallest tower in the EU (and this on the European Continent). Built from 1979 to 1989, it may be ugly but it does make its mark. Although inaccessible to the public, it can be admired from far. This mega structure still ranks as one of the tallest in the world.
Kalnciema Kvartāls Market (Āgenskalns)
Deep into the west bank of Riga, in an area called Āgenskalns, is the Kalniciema Kvartāls a traditional farmers market with an outdoor plaza with terraces that is often host to live music during the summer months. Although it is located outside the core, it offers travellers a chance to get away from the tourist traps and mingle with locals.
Riga Old Town
My first look at Riga was when I arrived by bus just as the sun was setting. I was dropped off on Audēju Street with its beautiful mural and the active patio nearby. Enthused at the beauty of the place, I could not wait to get exploring!
Based on the sensitivity of attraction in the old town, I think it would best if try to lump attractions together based on their relative location in the old town.
Dom Square and the Armadillo
This iconic public space was built to impress. Constructed around the most important building in the city, the 13th Century Livonian Cathedral, now a Lutheran church you will find terraces, museums and wonderful architecture. One of these building is the ex Riga Bourse (Stock Exchange), now housing the Mākslas muzejs “RĪGAS BIRŽA”, an art museum containing the largest collection of world art in Latvia, including many pieces from ancient Egypt and the middle east.
The Dom as it is called can be distinguished by its massive Gothic tower. The church now houses the Museum of the History of Riga and Navigation. A funny story about the church is that in 1524, iconoclasts (assholes who like to destroy idols) went to town on a statue of the Virgin Mary located the cathedral. These idiots accused the statue of being a witch, and gave it a trial by water by which it was thrown in the Daugava River. Of course it floated, so it was denounced as a witch and burnt.
On the tower you will find a weathercock. Although converted to a Lutheran building it was forced by referendum to share the space with the city’s Catholics. It is also home to the city’s archbishop. It is the largest church in the Baltic region and is known for its pipe organ.
On a staircase, accessing the square, you will find an armadillo shadowing your footsteps.
Rātslaukums, the House of the Blackheads and the Occupation Museum.
The main square old the old town, it is also where many cruise port visitors will get their first glance at the city. The name makes reference to the city hall (Rīgas rātsnams) while the square goes by the name of Town Hall Square (Rātslaukums). The merchant city has a long history of municipal government going back to its founding in the 13th century. The original town hall building dates from 1785 but was demolished in 1941. A replica stands in its place.
In the center of the square you will find a marker set up to commemorate the world first decorated Christmas tree in 1510. From Riga, Lutheran Germans introduced the practice to the English where much of the lore was created. The Brotherhood of the Blackheads, a merchant guild where the ones that recorded the event. Speaking of wich you should check out the stunning House of the Blackheads, a guild house replica of the 14th century building with 17th century Mannerist ornamentation. Today the building houses grand ballrooms as well as a museum dedicated to the guild and the history of Riga.
In front of the house you will find a replica of the 19th century statue of Frankish hero Roland. It is particularly pretty at night!
On the opposite side of the occupation museum you will find the Latvian Riflemen Monument and Riga Technical University (1862)
Just south of the house of the Blackheads, longing the moat, you will find the Occupation Museum. It is housed in a god ugly structure, built in 1971 by the soviets to celebrate the 100th birthday of Lenin. Until 1991 it served as a museum commemorating the Red Latvian Riflemen. Now it is home to a collection displaying Latvian life from 1940-1991 (eg: from the first Soviet Occupation – on). Inside you will find a replica of the Gulag habitations and many artifacts from the time of occupation. Make sure to check the second branch of this institution at the Corner House in Centrs.
Castle (Pils) and the Our Lady of Sorrows
Built on the edge of town in 1330 after ethnic Latvians rebelled and destroyed the first Livonian Order Castle in the the center of town, Riga castle has long been a symbol of the city. The Order moved to Cesis yet the castle was reinforced and rebuilt 1515. In 1938 it became the residence of the Latvian government and today houses the Latvian President as well as several museums.
Beside the castle, you will find the Our Lady of Sorrows Church built in 1785, it is known for its distinctive blue roof.
The Three Brothers and St Jacob’s
The Three Brothers are located on Maza Pils Street (17,19,21). All three of these beautiful buildings represent different construction styles and were developed at different times (from the 16th to the 17th centuries).
They are now host to the Latvian Museum of Architecture and are considered to be some of the most unique and beautiful in the city.
From the opposite side of the street, you will find the masonry built, St. Jacob Catholic Cathedral of Riga, a 13th century church elevated to the rank of cathedral. From its top spire you will have a great view of the brothers.
Behind the church you will find a memorial to the “Barricades”. This makes reference to an order given by the Latvian population to help erect barricades around strategic targets so that the Soviets could not destroy them during the Latvian War of Independence in 1991.
Swedish Gate and the Fortifications
The most iconic part of the Riga remnants of the old city wall, the Swedish Gate (Zviedru vārti) was created 1698 was built by the Swedes to provide access to army barracks outside wall.
The second most is the the reconstructed Powder Tower, now home to the Latvian War museum.
Cat House, Pharmacy Museum and Livu Square
In the lively Livu square, and its wonderful terraced you will find one of Riga’s most playful buildings the Cat House. Built in 1909, the yellow painted building is known for its cat statues. The secondary attraction in the square is the stunning Small Guild House, a stunning neolithic structure from the 19th century. The pharmacy museum is just down the road from the square and is located in a stunning 17th century building.
Riga Synagogue and Mentzendorff House
Both located in the southern part of the old town, away from the action, they are still worth visiting. The Mentzendorff House is an authentic 17th century mansion filled with furnishings. The synagogue for its part was built in the early 20th century as part of the Art Nouveau movement and is the only one built in this style that I have yet to witness. While other synagogues were burned by the Germans in 1941, they decided to resist the burning of this one as it was too close to other buildings. As such it survived the war being used as a warehouse. Aster the war it was one of the few Jewish homes of Worship in the Soviet Union allowed to remain open. This building is worth a look for its authenticity. Very few Baltic synagogues escaped the German killing machine.
St. John and St. Peters Church
Two of the city’s most iconic churches are built right next to each other. The first is the more diminutive church of St john. The 13th century Gothic building is however more detailed and has dramatic interior ceiling.
The protestant St. Peter’s is much larger than the church of St. John. You can tell from its thick walls that it was meant to last. Originally conceived in 1209 it was one of the oldest churches in the Baltic region. it was rebuilt 3 times in separate styles Gothic and Romanesque building and early Baroque.
It’s 123 meter steeple has the best view of the the old town! Abolutthly woth the price of entry. From the top of the building you will have a view of the Dom on one side and on the other the old Zeplinn Hangars (Riga Central Market)!
Old Town Moat and Opera (Pilsetas Kanal)
The moat surrounding the old town has been turned into a stunning public park. The leafy green, tree surounded waterway allows you to rent paddle boats or take a boat tour. By the side of the Canal you will find the Latvian National Opera, a stunning neoclasical building home to german performances such as Rihard Wagner and many great Lavian plays as well!
Maskavas Forštate
Central Market and Spikeri
On the south side of the Old Town, past the Pilsetas Canal (part of the old town moat water system), you will come across a rather industrial area of the city from the interbellum period developed around the Riga Central Market, once a series of five Zeppelin Hangars.
From the canal you will get a good lock at the arches of Riga’s historic railway bridge as well as historic warehouses, one of which now home to the Lux Express bus service.
The semi-circular shaped dome were constructed between 1924-1930 are are constructed in Art Deco style. On the inside of the massive domes you will find several individual themes based on the hangar of your choosing, in one will find some of the higher end restaurants and bars, in another bucher shops, souvenirs/trinkets/crafts, deli meats/cheeses/artisan farm products and lastly fruits and vegetables.
Outside squished between the hangars and various warehouses, you will find various outdoor stalls, including several selling berries. The Baltic region in known for its berries and I would venture to say that the strawberries are the best I’ve had outside of the Isle d’Orleans in Quebec City Canada.
Amid this sea of warehouses check out Spikeri, the “creative district” and the nearby Riga Ghetto and Latvian Holocaust Museum!
Stalin’s Birthday Cake and the Area Surrounding it.
Completed in 1961, the Latvian Academy of Sciences better known as Stalin’s birthday cake or the Kremlin, cuts an imposing figure. Built in Soviet Classicism style to match contemporaries in Moscow and Warsaw. It was once the tallest building in the city and peers out above the central market stalls.
Speaking of which, it is strange to say but as you get further into the market the stalls become shoddier and shoddier, eventually leading to a bunch of abandoned building by the building itself. Due to the hip nature of the area, I am sure it will be redeveloped soon.
The building’s construction was financed by collecting “voluntary donations” forcibly taking part of the salaries from rural Latvians. The building has a height of 108 meters (354 ft) with a 17th-floor balcony observation balcony. It was the country’s first skyscraper and the communist symbols that once adorned it have been taken down.
The area surrounding the Stalinist building is a mix of drab soviet apartment blacks and stunning 19th and 20th century architectural remnants. These include the Annunciation of Our Most Holy Lady Church, an Orthodox church from Russian rule and a cluster of buildings around a roundabout surrounding the church of Jesus south of the building.
The Lutheran church is located on 18 Elijas Street and is known for its rotunda shape and central perch built in neoclassical style. Although it may seem diminutive it is actually the largest wooden classical building in Latvia, built in 1822.
The New Town (Centrs)
Brīvības Bulvāris Avenue and The Esplanade
When crossing the old town moat to Brīvības Bulvāris avenue, the main tree lined boulevard with a pedestrian walkway in its center, you will come across a massive column with a statue of lady liberty holding three stars in its arms. Honoring those who died during the War of Latvian Independence, the Freedom Monument, was completed in 1935. Unfortunately it now serves as a pee stop for drunk British, much to the dismay of the local population. Beside it you will find the National History Museum!
Along the boulevard you will find the iconic onion domes of the Nativity of Christ Cathedral an Orthodox Church built in 1883, during the reign of Russian Tsar Alexander II. The Neo-Byzantine structure is one of the most notable traces of Russian Rule. Behind it is the esplanade, a large park leading to the National Museum of Art a neoclassical/baroque structure. Not far from the end of the boulevard you will find the Splendid Palace, a beautiful interbellum theater dating from 1923. This beautiful space is the place to catch a film – a must see!
The Corner House, St. Gertrude and St Alexander
Located in the north end of the district, you will find two of the most important churches in this part of the city and its most heartbreaking museum – The Corner House.
Firstly St. Gertrude Old Church, served the German community. The Gothic masonry structure is the seventh iteration of the structure, built after the French destroyed the previous one in 1812. The Lutheran structure was built to serve the German community and services were once in the German language. At one point in the early twentieth century the congregation numbered over 30 000 and it nessisitated the building of St. Gertrude New Church for the Latvian community (leaving the old church for the germans). The nearby St. Alexander Nevsky Church, with tis bright yellow painted walls and Neoclassical rotunda offers releif service to the Cathedral.
The Corner House is another must see! The stunning 1910 building became the Latvian Revolutionary War Committee during the Independence war and later the unfortunate home to the Soviet KGB in 1940. It now houses a small museum run by the Occupation Museum detailing the grim conditions for those imprisoned here. *Update* As of 2020 the building has been put up for auction but the museum will be maintain as part of the contract.
Art Nouveau (Albert Street)
A visit to Riga is not complete without a visit to the world famous Albert Street – Ground zero for the flamboyant Art Nouveau architectural style. It is estimated that 1/3 of buildings in the historic quarter are constructed in Art Nouveau style, the largest concentration in world.
This style was conceived at the end of the 19th century and was popular into the early 20th century (1890-1910). It seeks to apply art to architecture, breaking down the historic forms of it to allow buildings to be more playful, employing natural forms such as curves. A highly decorative style is is often associated with the entrenches of the Paris Metro. It was succeeded after the First World War by Art Deco and (Cough Cough…) Modernism, a form of architecture so vile that I often get into heated arguments with architects over it.
Make sure to take a walking tour, it will help you appreciate the stunning style.
For a good lock at an authentic building interiors, I recommend a visit to the Jugendstila Centrs, a historic apartment with original furnishings. One of my favourite parts of Art Nouveau are the seemingly magical curved staircases, like those in the Pēkšēns House. Another favourite is the blue house at Elizabetes ielā, 10b. There are also some great Art Nouveau examples in the old town.
Make sure to stop off at Paula Stradiņa medicīnas vēstures muzejs, not far from Albert Street. It is one of hte largest medical museums in the world.
Vērmane Garden and the Natural History Museum
On the south side of Cntrs, you will find the Vērmane Garden, the oldest public garden in the city and the Latvian Museum of Natural History.
Industrial Suburbs and Outskirts
Riga Brethren Cemetery (Brāļu Kapi) and the Great Cemetery
Located north of the city, this plot of land was established in 1915 as the National Military Cemetery. Brethren is a reference to the fallen, who are given a worthy resting place. Latvian soldiers from 1915 and 1920, World War I and the Latvian War of Independence are buried here. The statues in this cemetery are absolutely stunning, especially that of the horseman and that of woman, a grieving mother Latvia looking down upon her dead sons. A particular moving headstone reads “Nezināms Latvijas armijas karavīrs, miris Gulagā (Unknown soldier of the Latvian Army, died in the Gulag).
Just south of the Brethren you will find the the Great Cemetery of Riga. This was once the resting place of the Baltic Germans but during Soviet occupation headstones were decapitated by the invaders. As a response city officials shut down the cemetery and turned it into a public park. Today there are still a few graves left to remind visitors of this park’s dark past.
Kultūras pils “Ziemeļblāzma” (Cultural Center)
This beautiful building and park was constructed in 1913 and is home to many municipal services. Worth seeing for the beautiful greenspace.
Spilve Airport (Latvian Aviation Museum)
Located on the western side of the Daugava, north of the city, Spilve was the old international airport of Riga back in 1920. Its distinctive (and ornate) neoclassical terminal building reflects this. When the new international airport was constructed in the 80’s it became a civic facility. Now a favourite of flight enthusiasts, it is also home the the Latvian Aviation Museum.
Andrejsala
Located north of the old town Andrejsala is an old port/waterfront industrial district. Among the warehouses you will find the Latvenergo Enerģētikas muzeja krātuves, a technology museum located in beautiful red brick hydroelectric facility.
Food and Drink
Riga is known as a culinary destination. Primarily known for its German style food, it also has a few regional variations of those dishes as well as some unique food of its own. The most famous of foods in Latvia is Rupjmaize, a dark and condensed rye bread that is best paired with Karbonāde, a Latvian variation of the Snitzel, or a Latvian soup.
Traditional soups include Frikadeļu zupa, Skābeņu zupa and Pīrādziņi. The first is a meatball soup, the second a beef broth sorrel soup and the third a cold beetroot soup.
As mentioned previously, the berries hare fantastic and there are a variety of Latvian sweets to try your hand at.
Riga Black Balsam, is the historic liquor of the city. Best known of the product produced by Latvijas Balzams since 1900, it was first invented by a pharmacist in 1752. I could not place the exact flavor of the sweet drink but according to Wikipedia it consists of “24 natural ingredients, including 17 botanicals – bilberries/blueberries, raspberries, birch buds, bitterwort root, peppermint leaves, Artemisia absinthium stalks and leaves, ginger root, Valerian root, sweet flag root, Melissa officinalis leaves and stems, Tilia cordata blossom, oak bark, St John’s wort, buckbean leaves, black pepper, Citrus aurantium skins and nutmeg.” The original recipe was lost with the departure of the Baltic Germans during the Second World War but was reconstructed by former employees after this. Having tried it as a shot, I can say that I’m a fan!
Beer in Latvia is generally of good quality and inexpensive. For those willing to try the craft stuff you will have an interesting time. There are some big highs and some massive lows. I adore Latvian beer but if someone tries to sell you on a honey beer take a pass! For information on Great Baltic Beers click here. On a beer tasting session I befriended a group of friendly Irishmen, they had a car and somehow I got invited out with them the next day and together we explored Gauja National Park. I would later run in to them in Vilnius, at my hostel bar! Fantastic guys!
Nightlife, Scams and Stay Safe
Old Town
As is typical in many European cities, the old town is the center of the nightlife (for many of the city’s tourists). I started many of my nights at the patios out front of the Riga Old Town Hostel & Backpackers Pub, where I would gather many of the people I had met from my previous nights of partying. The bar itself has cheap drinks and a neat grungy interior that is meant looks like part of a bus. One of the popular nightlife destinations are the outdoor patios located just south of Dom Square, in a public space of just off Kaļķu iela street among many in the old town. In this particular square you are surrounded by beautiful old guild-houses. There plenty of other public squares to drink in and it is very easy to find a pub.
Another popular downtown pub that you will surely be, the Armoury Bar Here you can have a pink a wield many different weapons such as Ak 47’s and even Bazookas.
Centrs and the Beer Embassies (Aka Stalin Hates Beer)
Outside the old town you will find a more authentic Latvian beer scene. The one touristy spot that is a must hit is the Skyline Bar at the Raddison Hotel on Brīvības Bulvāris Avenue, the main, tree lined, boulevard in Centers. From the top you will have a great view of the old town as well as the boulevard itself, with the Russian orthodox cathedral in the foreground. For craft beer lover I recommend a trip to Alkimetis, a fantastic beer bar in an iconic red painted brewpub.
The best place to hang out “like a local” in town is the famous Riga Beer District, Located 2.4 km’s into Centrs, long past the Skyline Bar. Through the district you will find what they call Beer Embassies. Prior to the Second World War the old Livonian/German estates in the countryside were home to breweries belonging to the estates German owners. After the war, the Soviets banned the production of the brew since they considered it to be German influence. After the Cold War ethnic Latvians bought these estates and restarted the proud brewing traditions of the past. Once of these embassies, built into a stunning masonry structure is that of Valmiermuižas Alus. Outside of these large producers from the countryside you have many crafts breweries, one of the more of the popular ones is Labietis. While in the district you can taste and consume hundreds of different beers – enjoy! If you are feeling sweets, a Chocolate Factory/Museum can be found nearby.
Lastly check out the Kaņepes Kultūras centrs at Skolas 15, this strange bohemian hang out is built into a historic gathering spot of old German and Russian aristocrats. Grab a pint and observe the charecters!
Scams and Staying Safe
Riga is a very safe city if you known your way around, despite this there are many ways that you could come into contact with some unsavoury characters. Ask your hotel/hostel about the safe local pubs before you go out – you can usually tell what ones are the good ones by the clientele. Avoid empty bars and going into lapdance/stripper establishments, as many are run by the Russian mob. They can resort to unsavoury tactics and intimidation to get your money. They also run a scam were young ladies approach young men in the street and grab them by the arm and try to get you to go to one of their “friends” bars. These are usually the above mentioned mob bars where you will be served highly upsold bottles, running at hundreds of Euros. If you don’t pay for this scam you will be intimidated. Use your common sense if its too good to be true, just walking away. Alternatively you could do what my friend John and I did and just waster their time talking nonsense and bringing them to local Latvian establishments to waste their time while they try to convince you to go to their friends. Its well worth it for a laugh, but they weren’t happy with us when they realized we wasted hours of their time!
Day Trips
Jurmala
This Baltic beach town is known for its stunning estate homes, quaint wooden cottages and white sandy beaches. Located a mere half hour by train from Riga, it was once the prized retreat of Soviet leaders and can be for you as well! For your guide to Jurmala’s beach life click here.
Jelgava
The old capital of the Duchy of Courland, a semi-autonomous entity located in south and eastern Latvia, this city is home to the palace of the Duke, a massive structure that should not be missed. Known by its old German name Mitau, Jelgava is worth the time to explore.
Gauja National Park (Sigulda)
This fantastic National Park is located deep within the heart of old Livonia. Home to medieval town, crusader castles, old growth forests, German estates/breweries and even a bobsled track. Gauja is a must visit for anyone venturing outside the capital!
Salaspils Workers Camp Memorial
This old Second World War forced labour camp is known for the poor treatment of its workers, including children. Now home to a socialist realist memorial, with the eery pulsing sound of heart in the background, it is a moving tribute to the victims of a genocidal regime. to read more about Salaspils and its tragic history click here.
Conclusion
As Rod Stewart would say “Some guys have all the luck, some guys have all the pain”, Riga would be the later, yet when I visited the people were friendly and welcoming despite their misfortune. I hope that this contagious spirit helps lift the Lavian people! The stunning Art Nouveau architecture of interbellum period, completed during the brief period of an independent republic should show just what this little nation could do. I only hope for the best for the country and not just for the kindness shown to me during my visit. Riga is one of my favourite cities in the world!
