Rabat – An Andalusian City in the Heart of Morocco
Am I in Granada or Rabat? Ok… that may a bit of an exaggeration but for those quickly scanning the city they will be pleasantly surprised at the vast amount of Moorish architecture, including stunning gardens. This is due to the fact that the city was founded by the Almohads, the ruling Moorish dynasty of Spain. Fleeing from the Spanish inquisition, they established themselves in the region building a powerful society, not all dissimilar from the one they left in back in Almohad Spain. In recent years the city has developed a reputation for being a sleepy government town (not all that dissimilar to my hometown of Ottawa, Canada) but it is hard to compete to the chaos found in Marrakesh. What is little discussed is just how gorgeous the city really is!
Rabat is a very clean and orderly place, with beautiful French design palm lined boulevards. In Morocco, a city like Rabat is a rarity and should be cherished.
Table of Contents
- Geography
- A Brief History
- Antiquity
- Medieval Era
- Corsair and ‘Alawi Rule
- French Protectorate and Modern Era
- Where to Stay
- Transportation
- Exploring Rabat
- Conclusion
Geography
Home to a gentle Mediterranean climate, the city is known for its mild temperatures and its location on the Atlantic ocean where a stream called the Bou Regreg takes fresh water out to sea. The city sits opposite to that of Salé, its counterpart to the north of this waterway and is the larger of the two port towns. Today, Salé is a commuter community for the larger Rabat.
A Brief History
The city’s blessed climate as well as geographic position led it to becoming an important destination in Antiquity, yet the political turmoil brought on by the fall of the Almohad Dynasty brought a long period of decay. It was the modern era that would return this ancient metropolis to prominence, now even the Nation’s capital.
Antiquity
Founded by the Phoenicians in the 1st millennium BC, under the name of Sala, this promising city soon came under the hungry gaze of an expansionist Rome. At the time of Rome’s annexation of it in the 1st century BC, it was controlled by an ancient Berber kingdom when. The Sala of antiquity was located on a site now called the Chellah, located south of today’s city center. It was one of two important costal settlements in Mauretania Tingitana. During the Fall of Rome, when the Empire was besieged by wave after wave of Barbarian invasions, the territory of Mauretania was occupied by the Visigoths.
Medieval Era
Despite being retaken by the Roman successor state, the Byzantine Empire, it appears to have been deserted sometime around the 5th century. In fact, invading Arab tribes found it in a state of abandon during the 7th century. During their rule they imposed Islam on the region. The early rule of Mauretania was administered through Moorish Spain, under the Umayyads of Cordoba, then the Almoravid Dynasty and after by the Almohad Dynasty. The Umayyads Moors first built a fortified monastery/outpost of Ribat on the site of the current Kasbah (a town sprung up near it). The Almoravid Dynasty built a more impressive fortification to defend against the Almoravids, while the Almoravids destroyed the Ribat and built the Kasbah (citadel) we see today. Another major project undertaken during the Moorish years included the digging of an underground canal to divert fresh water to the settlement allowing future urbanization.
It was the Almohad caliph Abu Yusuf Ya’qub al-Mansur (1184–1199), that helped the city rise to prominence by making the city his capital. He built the fortified Medina and a new mosque at the pre-existing Hassan tower. His grand vision was a failure when much of the new gated medina was not filled and fell into abandon. During the Marinid dynasty, from the 13th to the 15th century, Rabat lost its importance to Salé on the north bank. The Andalusian geographer Leo Africanus estimates that this decline was so precipitous that only a hundred or so houses still existed on the south bank by 1515. Despite this the Marinids did build a great mosque in what is the medina today.
Corsair and ‘Alawi Rule
The expulsion of the Moors from Spain in 1609 by Philip III helped revive the region, particularly the north bank then called Salé (the south bank – Rabat – now went by the name of Old Sale). While the north bank grew quickly as a Corsair port, so did it revive the southern end where Moorish immigrants quickly moved in and began to repopulate the town. By 1627 the two cities merged to create the Republic of Bou Regreg. While the north end remained a privateer port home to the terrorizers of the Christian Mediterranean, the corsair “Salé Rovers”, the south did not rely on piracy.
In 1666 the republic was conquered by the ‘Alawi dynasty under al-Rashid, their founder. The Alawi’s allowed piracy to continue until the 19th century. This was brought to an end after the city was shelled in 1829. This dynasty quickly filled the city with a series of palaces and grand works.
By the start of the 20th century the city had a population of 20000-25000 inhabitants.
French Protectorate and Modern Era
In 1912, the Treaty of Fes established a French Protectorate over Morocco but not all was smooth sailing. After a series of riots erupted in Fes, the General Hubert Lyautey moved the capital to Rabat. Like in Casablanca, he hired the architect Henri Prost to design la nouvelle ville, in this case the administrative sector of Rabat. By 1956 Morocco was independent and Mohammed V decided to keep the capital in Rabat. The Second World War brought in the US army about who maintained military bases here into the early 1960’s when asked to pull out by the king after independence.
Where to Stay
During my stay in the city, I stayed in the Medina. My home was an old fashioned Riad at 1 Dar El Kebira street. I would also recommend staying at one of these establishments. The Riads are pne of the staples of Moroccan hospitality. These guesthouses are unassuming from the outside but fabulous when you step into step the interior. Constructed with Moorish motifs, these interiors are built around an inner courtyard and usually include a fountain or a water feature. Staff is kept on hand to cook meals or to offer other services.
My Riad had a fantastic rooftop patio on top of that! From here I was privy to views of the old town. These types of rooftops are a great place to have breakfast!
Transportation
Rabat is blessed with a great reginal transit system anchored by the Tramway. This is an excellent way to go to Rabat across the river. As for intercity trains, the station is located in the Ville Nouvelle and safe, clean and is accessible by tram.
Exploring Rabat
Rabat is easily explored on foot and contains a good mix of historic and architecture from the colonial as well as modern periods. Although the nightlife is lacking the city is clean, safe and aesthetically pleasing with many green spaces and parks to relax in. Furthermore it is more pedestrian friendly then most cities in Morocco.
Kasbah des Oudayas
The site of the Kasbah is the location where the modern city was founded. At its eastern end you will find an entrance to the enchanting Moorish gardens, one of the prettiest spaces in the city. Unfortunately it was not open during my visit, so I will have to add pictures of it at a later date.
Inside the medina you will find a collection of whitewashed buildings interjected with blue pastel colours and the occasional green plants and pink flowers.
The main street in the Kasbah runs from the famed Bab Oudaya (Oudaya Gate) to a public square where the fortress meets the Atlantic. On this street you will find the minaret tower of a mosque and many vendors of craftwork.
As for the gate itself the barrelled structure is a sight to be seen. By it side you will find the excavated remains of a previous structure and a great view of the skyline.
From the main square at the end of the street you will have a great view of the Kasbah’s whitewashed skyline as well as the Atlantic ocean.
If you look closely back towards the city, you will get a glimpse of a massive graveyard and the lighthouse.
Medina Rabat
Although less impressive then a Medina in Fez or Marrakesh, Rabat’s Media has a lot to offer. Although it was once fortified many of the gates facing the Ville Nouvelle have been torn down. Fortifications still exist in the south east corner of the town where you will find the Bab Laalou.
If coming in from the Ville Nouvelle train station, your introduction to the old city may be though the Marché Central (Central Market), a fresh food market on the edge of the Medina. At the intersection with Souika road you will find the previously mentioned great mosque of Rabat. If you wish to explore this area more you can wander around and find a puppet museum but following this street is a more interesting proposition.
This street intersects with the famed Rue Des Consuls (Road of the Consulates). One of the most important historic streets in the capital it was once the home to many foreign consulates and ambassadors, with many intricate buildings dating from the colonial period. Today it functions as a vital commercial artery. Unfortunately at the time of my visit the iconic curved glass and steel canvas that once covered the street had been replaced by a wooden roof. Not only did it make the street darker and less inviting but it also made it plain and too similar to other market streets in the rest of the country, including cities like Marrakesh.
Along this street you will also find many stately buildings, usually with neo-morrish portico’s or reliefs. This is a legacy of its ambassadorial past.
If you wish to get lost in the Medina, the streets away from the main arteries will allow you to see how locals live. The narrow alleys are usually quiet and well kept with lampadaires lighting them up in the evening. Most buildings are whitewashed but without as much ornamentation. In essence they are of less interesting architecturally then those located in the Kasbah.
Ville Nouvelle (Quartier Hassan/Quartier Des Orangers/Quartier Administratif)
Home to a stunning array of colonial architecture, this part of the city is due south of the old Medina and is host to a plethora of architectural styles. Furthermore is known for its wide boulevards, museums, administrative buildings, transportation infrastructure, modern dining and clean crime free streets.
Also… a bunch of beautiful murals!
From the medina, the palm lined boulevard Mohamed V, takes you into the Ville Nouvelle – serving a the central axis for the area. In is center a pedestrian walkway that offers a pleasant walk down the stately street as well as sidewalks and covered porticoes under the buildings also serving pedestrians. As such the boulevard also serves as a kind of urban green space.
At the northern end of the street is the Neo-Moorish (a mix with art deo) postal office, with its iconic clock, as well as telecom offices and the central bank and museum.
Buildings of note on the street include the Moroccan Parliament and hotels.
At the very end of the boulevard you will find the previously mentioned intercity train station.
and opposite to it you will find the beautiful Assounna Mosque and Mohammed VI Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, with a strange statue of a bloated horse out front!
You will also continue to see government offices. Including an important courthouse.
By far the most important cultural institution in this part of the city is the History and Civilizations museum. Located a block over in the neighbourhood due east of the mosque it is an unassuming building from the outside but the inside is home to untold architectural riches.
Many of the items on display come from the ancient Roman city of Volubilis, the heart of Roman Mauritania and a nearby archaeological site that is worth visiting today. Although it is a small museum it is a very important one, if visiting that city.
The structure consists of a main hall a courtyard and two smaller exhibit rooms. The items collected are from diverse backgrounds and are Phoenician, Hebrew, Libyan, Roman, Almohad and Prehistoric among others.
Among the other attractions in the Ville Nouvelle, a singular public space stands above all other in terms of both national and cultural significance. Located in the east of the Quartier Hassan, and surrounded by a tall sturdy walls, are a collection of structures that include: the columned remains of an Almohad mosque, the Mausoleum of Mohammed V, the Hassan Tower and the Library of the Alaouite dynasty (now buried underground). Patrolling the site are Morocco’s royal guards, decked out in their distinctive uniforms uniform, and on horseback.
At the south of the complex is the Mausoleum of Mohamed V, this funerary chapel belongs to the Kingdom of Morocco’s first king post independence and is of National Significance.
Unfortunately much of the complex was closed for independence day and the mosque itself under renovation. The Hassan Tower is an unfinished minaret tower, and a testament to early Islamic ambition in the realm of architecture. A landmark of the city, it dates from the 12th-century and was surrounded by 348 columns for its (also incomplete) mosque. The tower is a twin of the Giralda of the Spanish city of Seville and was inspired by the the Koutoubia Mosque in Marrakesh. Damaged during the Lisbon Earthquake of 1755, it was excavated by French colonial archeologists who helped restore the site to its former glory.
In the nearby park you will get a great view of Sale and the river including the modern Grand Théâtre de Rabat and a memorial to Moroccan independence. You will also find a tram stop that will take you to Salé or back into town towards the train station.
One last landmark is St. Peter’s Cathedral and its square. This fabulous 1930’s Art Deco structure is a masterpiece of French colonial architecture and is worth a quick visit at the very least.
Near the cathedral you will find more great examples of colonial architecture, especially the Société du Tramway de Rabat Salé.
Chellah
Just south of the administrative quarter of the Ville Nouvelle you will find the Chellah complex, the site of the ancient Roman Sala. This ruined complex is supposed to be quite impressive but unfortunately it was closed for renovations at the time of my visit.
Quartier de L’Ocean
* Although this neighbourhood is usually considered east of the medina, along the coast, I have included the whole coastline up to the Kasbah.
South of the medina and the Kasbah you will find a large cemeteries with access forbidden to non Muslims.
At its base is a lovely beachfront area area with views of Sale and the Kasbah of Rabat.
On the beach, towards the lighthouse you will find an old sea wall bastion, now housing a restaurant.
The lighthouse of Rabat itself stands in the sea, while wild waves crash into the rocks. Unfortunately much of the complex is under lock and key.
From here you can head up towards the Lalou gate.
Facing the gate you will find the picturesque Ashohada Mosque.
As well as thus beautiful Moorish style building.
If you choose to continue along the shoreline make sure to check out the photography museum located in Fort Rottembourg.
Salé
Located across the river to the north, Rabat’s twin city is the lesser travelled of the two but is well worth a day trip. For more information click here.
Conclusion
Although Rabat is not known for its nightlife, it does offer a wide variety of daytime activities for those staying in town. The charming Moorish city looks its best in bloom when flowers draw out the the pastel colours of the city’s buildings and the city’s parks are at their greenest. Furthermore its proximity to Fez, Casablanca, Tangier, Meknes and Moulay Idriss makes it an easy one to visit. And why not! Rabat is safe, clean and beautiful, a welcome change for those used to the more hectic of the nations cities.
