Quaint English Charm in Roman Bath
Very few places elicit the kind of emphatic reaction that afflicts visitors to the small English town of Bath. It’s outstanding sandstone Georgian architecture seem to put them at ease and the famous thermal baths… well, they blow them away. My day in Bath could not have been more picturesque. The sun had come out and it was a pleasantly warm temperature (even by English standards!).
Table of Contents
Geography
Bath is the quintessential south-western British town. Located in Somerset it is surrounded by rolling green limestone hills oozing idyllic charm. It is located only 11km from nearby Bristol on the Avon River.
History
Occupied since the Bronze Age, Bath has an illustrious history peaking in importance during the Roman Era and then again as a spa town during the Georgian Era.
Celts, Druids and Roman Antiquity
Bronze age barrows indicate just how early the Avon Valley saw human activity, yet the most prominent reminder of Bath’s pre-Roman past overlooks it – Solsbury Hill (yes like the fantastic Peter Gabriel song!). This Iron Age hangout overlooking the city was thought to be an iron age fort.
The springs, where the Roman Bath are located today, were well known to the Celtic Briton people who likely used them as druidic shrines to a godless named Sulis. Her influence is clearly stated by the Romans who named their settlement Aquae Sulis, although the warship of her was replaced by that of Minerva. The settlement was established in 60A.D and the bathouses were constructed over the next 300 years along with a city wall. The town and its famous baths went into decline from the 4rth to the 6th century A.D as the Roman administration desintigrated and Anglo Saxon’s prepared for their invasion of Britain.
Medieval Ages
After possibly being the site of a Saxon defeat at the hands of the mythical King Arthur, Bath succumbed to the Germanic invaders in 577 A.D. The Saxons dressed the sad state of the elegant remnants of the medieval city in their poem The Ruin. Curiously the Saxons also used the site as a spa center of sorts and it was known as a place that could cure back ailments. In the 9th century King Alfred laid out the new street grid for the town and Edward the Elder had his coins minted in the city. In a stunning move Edgar of England took his coronation here and all future coronations would follow his model. This was the peak of medieval bath. In 1066, William the Conqueror would cross the English Channel and he would sack the town when it rebelled in 1088.
Royal Town and Modern Era
The town came out of the medieval era dilapidated yet the Elizabethan Era was cause for optimism – the town slowly returning to its long lost spa status. As the city regained form it became a hangout for the increasingly wealthy English aristocratic class. The city was a royalist stronghold during the English civil war and the Battle of Lansdowne took place nearby. The city grew during the Stuart Monarchy but reached its apex during the Georgian era where its appearance as a sea of cream colored limestone buildings began to take shape. It grew to 40 000 people and was one of the largest towns in Victorian England.
During the Second World War the city was heavily bombed by the German air force destroying a massive total of 19 000 buildings. Although some housing has been rebuilt in uggly postwar style, a new emphasis has been initiated by conservationist to emulate the old Georgian styles of old Bath.
Exploring the City of Bath
Bath is a small city, easily accessible to the average pedestrian. I rode the train in from Bristol and was easily able to see the whole city on foot! The station drops you off at the south side of the old town, no need for a car, just bring your best walking shoes. After a long day of working my legs I wasted the last hours of the afternoon sunbathing on the green lawns of Bath!
Solsbury Hill and Surrounding High Points
Just north-east of the city, above the Avon River, you will find the famous Solsbury Hill. It is located in the Cotswolds, a scenic region of Britain, known for its stone houses and pretty green hills. At the top of it you will find a short obelisk, a station marker, used for geographic surveys.
If short on time you can skip out on Solsbury Hill and climb up one of the many hills around the city for magnificent view of the farmland and the pretty Georgian townhomes that dot the landscape.
Pay a visit to the pretty Bath Abbey and explore the religious fabric of the city.
This fine 16th century building is located in the oldest section of bath, where the River Avon forms a bend around the city. It was originally founded in the 7th century and much like its neighbor, the old roman baths of Bath, it has long roots in the city.
In less fortunate times, before bath became a modern boom town, the Abbey was the most prominent building in what was but a town. Even today the building towers above the low rise city, although one could not call it tall.
It is considered to be a great example of Perpendicular Gothic architecture, a popular style in England in the Late Medieval Ages.
The front of the abbey is a pretty public space that contains the entrance to the Roman Baths but the best view is from the South-West side of the building.
There are plenty of great churches to visit around bath, if I were to recommend two they would be St Michael’s Church or Christ Church.
I would not worry about specifically finding these two though, churches are a dime a dozen in Bath.
Gaze at the Awe Inspiring Roman Thermal Bathhouse
The picture is not complete without some quarrelsome fellow, a thief caught in the act, or the man who loves the sound of his own voice in the bath – not to mention those who jump with a tremendous splash
Seneca
Displayed in the West baths, on a placard, is the above mentioned quote. When one walks through archeological site, staring down from the Victorian balconies into the pool of water below, one cannot help but imagine what the complex looked like in Roman times. This is why people come to Bath, yet little remains of the Roman Bath they imagine. The old athenaeum was replaced by the Empire Hotel and the streets paved over by the Georgian city above it. But in this one small block of Bath, Rome’s glory shines for all to see. The baths themselves were lost to a fire in the 6th century, as relayed by the Anglo-Saxons, hence the ruinous state of the complex.
Today you will find the original springs that had captivated the Celts hidden under the cover of a “new” 18th century building. In the adjacent Grand Pumphouse, a stunning classical styled dinning room where they served the waters. In its rear yard is a spring water pool along with a pretty balcony overlooking it. After entering though the portico of the stunning structure you can pay your entry ticket.
The tour of the structure will take you to three stunning areas, the balcony overlooking the main bath pool, the roman pool level and the original springs basement, where the operating magic happened. On the terrace you will find many statues. These belong to the roman era and have been restored to their former glory.
Part of the museum is dedicated to the spring itself and the objects that people left for the goddess. These includes thousands of coins. A peculiar offering is that of curse tablets, usually cursing the thefts of clothes while the curser was bathing.
On display (as seen below) you will also find the hypocaust heating system used in the roman sweat lodges.
In the basement you will find the great spring’s overflow chamber.
As well as an old circular bath and many other interesting pieces of the complexes history.
Take in the Scenery at Prior Park
This 18th century landscape garden on the outskirts of Prior Park College is magnificent. The neoclassical college buildings are built at the top of the hill while a stunning green leads down to a stone pavilion with an artificial pond.
Admire the Parade Gardens and the Pulteney Bridge
From the public park known as the Parade grounds, you will have a great view of the Avon River. On the right left side of the river you will find the old Empire Hotel. Built in 1901, you will recognize it due to its distinctive octagonal tower. All three social classes are represented in the buildings architecture. The right tower (castle) represents the upper class, while the middle triangular roof represents the middle class and the small roofs on the left side the cottages of the working class.
You will notice from the riverfront a weir in front of the Pulteney Bridge. This sublime and graceful crossing was completed in 1774 around the same time as the Royal Crescent. Amazingly the structure was designed in a way as to have shops along both of its sides along its length.
The 45 meter long bridge rests upon three arch piers in the Avon river. This is a heavy duty construction and perhaps the second most remarkable view on the city.
The Royal Crescent and the Circus
One of the most famous attractions in Bath, the Royal crescent has the distinction of looking like a question mark from the air when combined with the road leading to the circus. The later is the circus (the dot!). It is composed of a roundabout with three input roads with stone georgian townhomes lining the outer wall. The former, the roayl crescent is a semicircular ‘c’ shape composed of 30 uniform Georgian terraced houses.
Of all these these terraced houses one is a hotel/spa and another a museum. A large green extends out from the buildings. These are considered to be the finest Georgian building complexes in the UK. Completed in 1774, they have accommodated many famous Brittons including the likes of William Wilberforce. The facade of these buildings is that of colums protruding out, giving the impression of being faced by a large Greek colonnade.
Residential Bath
As previously mentioned the old town of bath occupied a spot between a bend in the Avon river. In this section you will find much of the stock of old Georgian buildings, including many mentioned above. In this section I lay out a few extra things to do in residential Bath. For one you can visit Sally Lunn’s Historic Eating House & Museum, one of the oldest homes in bath and a famous tea house at that!
For lovers of literate you may want to check out the Jane Austin Center, a museum with in period narrators detailing the life and times of author and bath resident Jane Austin. Tho see her once home, venture out of the center to 4 Sydney Place, at the west of the Avon river. The home is fronting the Sydney Gardens and will allow you to visit The Holburne Museum, a collection of silver artifacts.
For those who would like to better understand the high society life practised in bath, you must visit the assembly rooms. Frequented by both Jane Austen and Charles Dickens, it was an important meeting place for the elites of the city.
Stroll Though Victorian Shopping Arcades (Indoor and Outdoor!)
Old bath is known for its attractive shops and restaurants. Be sure to wander the cobblestone streets of the old town. One interesting cluster of shops are those located on Old Bond Street, near the Royal Mineral Hospital grounds. If it is raining outside, the area just north of the train offers mall shopping (less interesting).
If you are looking for groceries there is a Tesco on Monmouth Street. My favorite building is located on the otherside of the street from it. I was able to pick up groceries and some drink for the train from here. If looking for an interesting pub, try the Crystal Palace, a retro – Georgian era – pub, a stones throw from the Gothic abbey.
Unwind at a Spa
The old Roman Baths may not be able to accommodate the modern visitor but plenty of places around the city can. The rebirth of bath during the Victorian era created a boom of new resorts, many of which have had modern restorations. One of the most famous places in town is the Thermae Bath Spa, the modern monstrosity hidden by the old Georgian Hot and Cross Baths is a popular attraction with tourists.
Conclusion
You could easily loose track of time in Bath, it is so gorgeous that just being around it puts you at ease. Although most people come for the Roman Baths, I think many are surprised by just how much there is too do in Bath, relative to its size. Enjoy a leisurely stroll though the town but also take the time to stop at a cafe and people watch or grab a beer at the pub. When time flies, you will suddenly find yourself with all the time in the world, time seems to stop in Bath… for me at least.
