Prince Edward County – From Sandbanks to Picton and the Lake On the Mountain
Located in the heart of south eastern Ontario, the radiant charm of rural Prince Edward County is a sight to behold. It’s well developed tourism industry, culinary standing and laid back attitude have attracted the eye of outsiders and in recent years Prince Edward County’s tourism industry has taken off. As wealthy Torontonians have displaced the natives, tearing apart the local fabric, I look back at a place that is so crisp in my memory yet my no longer really exist. This is the place where I spend many of my summers, exploring and developing in the nurturing confines of Sandbanks Provincial Park.
Among the locations explored in this post are:
- Picton
- Wellington
- Sandbanks Provincial Park
- The Murray Canal
- Glenora
- Lake On The Mountain
- The Mustang Drive In
- Sunflower Fields
- Lavender Farms
- And the Wineries of the County
Table of Contents
Geography
Between Kingston and Toronto on the shores of Lake Ontario, is an enormous littoral landmass jutting into the water. This triangular shaped bulkhead is surrounded by the north and east by the Bay of Quinty and exposed to Lake Ontario along its other shores. Today its narrow land connection is split by the Murray Canal connecting the Bay of Quinty to the lake on the north side of the land. There are four ways to access the area, two bridges, a land crossing and the Adulphus/Glenora Ferry taking you though historic Loyalist Township.
A Brief History of Prince Edward County
An important settlement in early Upper Canada, Prince Edward County was formed in 1792 by orders of John Graves Simcoe, Ontario’s first Lieutenant Governor. Like nearby settlement along the St. Lawrence such as Bath, Kingston and Prescott as well as the Eastern Townships of Quebec, the region was settled by the Loyalists, refugees of the American Revolutionary War.
Today the towns have amalgamated into one municipality called Prince Edward County where each is a ward.
Exploring the County
Picton
The charming first city of the County is its most populous and has generated a certain clout due to its historic value. Named after Sir Thomas Picton, a British army officer during the Napoleonic Wars, this lovely town is a great example of an authentic Loyalist Settlement. These people were escapees from the American Revolution and founded towns along the St. Lawrence and Eastern Quebec (The Eastern Townships), founding Picton, then Hallowell in the 1780’s.
While in town you should check out many of the grand old homes in its periphery. Built of masonry, they represent the wealth of the upper crust of the old county.
Another grand old building just outside of the main street is the Crystal Palace at the Picton Fairgrounds. This stunning wooden barn is now a popular wedding destination.
In the town itself you will find such structures as the stone built Picton courthouse (1832) as well as the masonry Shire Hall (City Hall)
The main street is typical of main streets in Ontario, with a few buildings of note. Lovers of history will surely know that Canadian Prime Minister and nation builder Sir John A. Macdonald, lived for three years in Glenora before moving to Picton to take over a cousins law office and later becoming the first secretary of the Prince Edward Young Men’s Society in 1834 and later secretary of the Prince Edward District School Board, an early foray into the field of public administration.
One of the most recognizable buildings in town is the armoury, a stunning masonry structure, now home to several shops.
Another equally pretty building is the old public library nearby!
Or the old Regant Theater, a community staple.
One of my favourite attractions is the Macaulay Church Museum at the Macaulay Heritage Park, a beautiful stone church dating from the early 19th century, Founded by two early missionaries to the area it stands of a reminder of a Picton that has long since disappeared.
Overlooking the town, on your way to the airport, you will find the Millennium Lookout, with a view of the town below.
One of the coolest things to do is to drive thought the previously mentioned airfield. Long since disused, it was a Royal Air Force Bombing and Gunnery School established in the summer of 1940, while the Battle of Britain was raging and the commonwealth was in need of a large training school. The county was chosen for its sparse population and the availability of land.
After the war it was used by the Canadian Army who turned it into a fully fledged army base. Unfortunately the facility shut down in 1969 and has sat in a state of of almost disuse since.
As you drive though the abandoned hangars, barracks, watchtowers and planes you will find that the spooky setting is actually one of the most diverse and unique military construction in Canadian heritage – and possibly one of the most obscure locations in our Patrimony.
As a side note, some of the only activity seen on site includes the filming of a few television shows.
Glenora/Lake On The Mountain
Once of the most impressive parts of the drive into the county (if you chose to do so) is Adolphustown/Glenora Ferry. Traversing Historic Bath Ontario and longing the waterway, you are in for a nice drive. The ferry is free of charge, part of the historic highway system, and will lead you to the historic port of Glenora, an outpost of a few stone buildings such as fisheries and old mills.
From here one can take the road up the ledge behind Glenora for a view of Lake on the Mountain, a massive body of water sitting atop the escapement.
From Lake on the Mountain sit back and enjoy a cold brew overlooking the Ferry Crossing and the Bay of Quinty.
For more information on the famous Glenora Ferry Crossing as well as the famous Lake on the Mountain overlooking the Bay of Quiny, read my stub post on the matter here.
Sandbanks Provincial Park (and the Log Cabin Point)
Erected on a sandbar connecting East Lake to Lake Ontario via the outlet River, this popular summer destination should be booked in advance as it fills up fast. To its north you will find an extension of the park including the famous Dunes Beach facing West Lake.
There are many places to camp at this popular provincial park but my favourite is the Cedar Campground. From here one can drive, walk or bike (preferably the latter two, especially after having some pints) to any of the attractions located in the surroundings.
Outlet Beach (and the Outlet River)
The primary day use beach for campers and day trippers alike, the crescent shaped beaches along Lake Ontario will likely be your first fresh water experience in the county. The soft sand of it will surely feel good on the feet, yet be tracked into the tent later. I spent a lot of time here walking from either the outlet or the cedars campground and exploring the crescent shores.
These are some of the finest beaches in Ontario and can be access over small dunes, keeping the campground safe from the lake winds.
The outlet river you can find a small dog beach and walk up its shores to find East Lake. The deeper sections of the river has frogs but also blood suckers so be careful.
Cabin Point
Facing East Lake, rather then Lake Ontario as the previous crescent beaches, Cabin point is home to a log cabin at the outlet of the… Outlet River!. This is where I would sneak out of sandbanks park itself so I could bike to get ice cream while growing up.
Dunes Beach
Located on West Lake, these Dunes are the World’s largest baymouth barrier dune formation – and some of the most imposing in the province. An absolutely must see!
A trail will take you from the parking lot up into the dunes themselves where you can explore them.
On the trails you may find some of the twisted steel remnants of machinery, once part of the West Lake Brick and Products Company Ltd. Started in 1914 it produced 48,000 bricks per day, yet by 1927 it was buried in its own dunes shifting sand. Of course these bricks were composed of sand, so being built on this natural resource was a blessing for the owners.
Today the dunes have been restored to their natural state and are a great hike up!
If you do get too hot while exploring you can always run down and cool off in Lake Ontario’s refreshing waters below. Since this a shallow area, temperatures are quite comfortable.
This is possibly the most impressive part of the park, so enjoy yourself.
Richardson’s Beach
Opposite to Dune’s is Richardson’s Beach, a less crowded replica of the Outlet beach, and just as pleasant. Located near the Richardson’s campground it offers a great walk along the shoreline.
Fossil Beach
Parking near a forested area with pathway access to Fossil Beach, you will come across my favorite area in the park.
Along a great stretch of shoreline in the parking lot is the ruins of an old hotel and dance hall, long since disappearing into the landscape. This was a particularly popular summer destination at one point as the historic plackets will atest to the wild parties thrown here.
The view of the shore from here is magnificent as well, especially at sunset!
Following the short trail into the woods you will come across the stony fossil beach.
If you are here on one of the many tours offered by park rangers, they will be show you where to find the fossils in the rock. Otherwise look down and inspect carefully yo find them, they are easy to miss and are located in an area of shoreline close to the pathway.
Wellington
A quaint settlement just north of Sandbanks, longing the western coast of the county, Wellington occupies an enviable geographical position at the center of the county’s tourism industry. Home to a few restaurants and shop (including a grocery store!), its true charm lies in its proximity to the county’s most important wine region.
One of Wellingtons major attractions is its rocky beach were a beautiful old lighthouse out on a stone breakwater greats those visitors who walk out to its ancient light!
Wineries of Prince Edward County
Always a favourite of travellers, the vibrant wine scene of the county burns especially bright in a patch near the Sanbanks Campground.
Not far from the lavender farm you will find my favourite winery Closson Chase, a purple barn with a “backyard” feel.
Not only is the place implacably decorated but the wine is some of the best in the province!
If you are looking to drink in larger quantities for a reasonable price, the Sandbanks Wine Company near Wellington should be right up your alley! Not only do they have a great selection but the atmosphere here is fantastic.
There are plenty more wineries all though the county including this one near a beautiful church like structure!
Or this barn! Point is if you are driving though the county you are bound to come across a few of these!
The Mustang Drive In
A staple of life in the county, the retro Mustang Drive in has been a popular attraction for generations of youth including myself when I got into my teenage years (I distinctly remember seeing the The Dark Knight and the overly indulgent Pineapple express here on a double feature). This is a great evening activity if you can get a hold of a car.
Sunflower Fields
The county is renowned for its plentiful harvest of Sunflowers. These are best seen at the end of August when their beautiful sun loving yellow flowers light up their fields. A popular stopoff to see them is at the Fields Ice Cream Shoppe, located right next to a prefect photo taking opportunity of the gently giants (do make sure to buy an ice creat thought!).
Lavender Farms
Prince Edward County is renowned for its lavender farms including the always lovely Prince Edward County Lavender – a farm, b&b and gift shop offering all things lavender among fields of the lovely smelling purple flower.
The beautiful farm offers a place to rest one’s weary legs with muskoka chairs doting the site.
The Murray Canal
Linking the Bay of Quinty’s north end channel to Lake Ontario is the Murray Canal. There is little to see here for the average tourist but can be an interesting approach to the boater, and as a land route to the driver. The canal is located near the Presqu’ile Bay, and Presqu’ile Provincial Park, a worthy stopoff for summer visitors.
Conclusion
If you are looking for the perfect weekend getaway, I would would highly recommend this little slice of lakefront Ontario. The combination of amenities and activities available for people of all ages is truly outstanding and repeat visits will soon be the norm. Enjoy the area while it is still accessible to regular working class Canadians, as it may very well be the next Muskoka. At the end of the weekend you will will find yourself daydreaming of your return to Ontario’s Prince Edward County.
