Prešov – At the Crossroads of Trade
Located at a critical juncture in Europe’s medieval trade network, Prešov feels like it has been frozen in time. It’s impeccable main square stands as a testament to the wealth derived from its position, and to what was lost when those tectonic plates of trade shifted with changing borders. Life can be opportune, but fortune is fleeting, cities rise, stagnate and fall despite the best efforts from their citizens.
Table of Contents
Geography
The administrative capital of Šariš region, Prešov is built near the confluence of the rivers Torysa and Sekčov. It is surrounded by a combination of both farmland and forested hills
A Brief History
As a trading center, Presov has had an interesting history with many nations covering its valuable position. As the regional borders shifted away so to did the importance of the neighboring Kosice, yet somehow Presov retained its importance. Remarkably it also managed to preserve the beautiful medieval center you see today.
Great Moravia and the Magyars
Occupied in a continuous fashion since the 8th century, under Great Moravia, and then the Kingdom of Hungary the settlement did not gain important until after the devastating Mongol Invasion of 1241. Rebuilding the country, King Béla IV of Hungary invited German colonists to settle in his kingdom, so many came that at one point Prešov became a German speaking town. The town made quick progress and by 1347 it was already made a royal free town by Louis the Great of Hungary.
In 1412, Prešov helped to create the Pentapolitana, a a trading organization consisting of five major eastern Slovak towns. In this era trade with the Polish–Lithuanian Commonwealth was a large part of the city’s wealth.
Habsburg Dominance and Conflict with Transylvania
Under the Austrians the city developed as a center for the Tokaj wine trade, as well as salt mining. Unfortunately it was also part of the religious strife that took over the Austrian Kingdom of Hungary during the protestant reformation when the Hungarian princedom of Transylvania. The Transylvanians took neighboring Košice forcing the Austrian-Italian general Giorgio Basta to take up shop in the city. These conflicts continued until Habsburg defeated Transylvania at the Battle of Eperjes, near Presov.
Although still an important military center the town began to fade after it was hit by the plague in the 18th century. It was its role as a military center that kept the city relevant for generations to come, especially as the revolutions of 1848 took place and the town was garrisoned by Slovak Volunteers before the Russian army moved in.
Czechoslovakia, Soviet Union and the Slovak Republic
At the end of the First World War, revolts against Hungary took place here and several civilians were executed during an event called the Prešov Uprising. The city was the capital of the Slovak Soviet Republic, a puppet of the USSR in 1919 after the First World War. Luckily the new state of Czechoslovakia was able to secure it. The Second World war saw Hungary take much of southern Slovakia, including neighboring Košice forcing many Slovak institutions to move here. The city was heavily bombed in 1944.
The Holocaust was grueling, unlike Košice the city was open to Jews and a six of the city’s population (4,308 people) was Jewish. Only 60 remained after the war when the city was “liberated” by the Soviet Union in 1945. The Soviets forcibly industrialized the region and the city’s population rose rapidly.
Like most of Slovakia, the city was part of the Velvet Revolution and eventually a new Slovak state emerged. As a signal the end of Communism Pope John Paul II visited Prešov on July 2, 1995. Slovaks are proud Catholics and it must have been interesting to see after the Communist suppression.
The city remains a military center to this day.
What to do in Prešov
Like much of the cities in Eastern Slovakia, Prešov has a small walkable city center with a stunning picture perfect oblong main square just like Kosice.
Drink Šariš Beer
Established near Presov in 1964, this is Slovakia’s largest brewery and boy do I like their products.
These include Šariš 12% Premium a light colored lager once awarded in the Monde Selection world quality contest in Brussels with three gold medals. Another good one is the Šariš 11% Tmavý, a dark beer and the original recipe Šariš 10% or Šariš Light.
Co-Cathedral of Saint Nicholas
At the center of the square, you will find the Co-Cathedral of Saint Nicholas, a 12th century gothic structure that has long been the emblem of the city. It is one of the oldest and most historically important churches in the country.
From inside you can climb up the bell tower to get great views of the public square below.
Neptune Fountain and the Main Square
Near the church you will find the old town hall, leading to Floriánova though a portal under its structure.
In the square you ill find an old soviet memorial to those lost in 1945.
As well as the statue of a horse and a fountain of Neptune.
You will also found some beautiful homes lining the main square.
Near the co-cathedral itself is the yellow painted Church of The Holy Trinity, a building dating from the mid-17th century and one of the few Evangelical churches in Slovakia built around the Reformation. It relative simplicity reflects its Protestant ideals.
The church is home to a tragic history. Housed in a crypt underneath the church where the 24 known victims of the Prešov slaughter are intered.
At the north side of the square you will find more religious buildings as well as Severný park.
Regional Museum in Prešov
Located next to the co-cathedral to the east is a beautiful old building home to the Regional museum of Presov. The institution charts the course of the city’s history as well as that of the county at large.
Floriánova Street
Following the passage under city hall, you will enter the main commercial artery of the city and possibly the street with the most character.
The street stretches out to the Floriánova brána, an old fortification gate. You will find many patios in this section of the street.
Day Trips
There is a vast array of things to do from Presov. Here are but a few of them!
Košice
Presov’s southern twin, Košice is a sight to behold. Once an important Hungarian city, it has found new life as the center of Eastern Slovakia and its most populous city. You can read more about this hopping city here.
Bardejov
This small Slovak town north of Presov is the first UNESCO site in Slovakia for its impeccably preserved medieval old town. You can read more about this medieval wonder here.
Zborov
This community owned castle north of Bardejov is really an underated and underappreciated part of Slovakia’s vast array of defensive structures. You can read more about it here.
Conclusion
Although the city is much calmer then neighboring Košice to the south, this city is almost nearly as pretty and just as impressive. In fact it is eerie how similar they actually are, yet on a clear summer day Prešov’s core was pretty empty. It has dawned on me that it is only a matter of time before this quant little city becomes a booming tourist destination, so make it out before it gets too crowded.
