Prague – At the Very Center of Europe

A moody metropolis, Prague looks its best on a glum evening where its majestic gothic architecture looms oppressively over its citizen. Its lugubrious character has been immortalized by its most bohemian citizens namely the late writer Franz Kafka who had a complex relationship with his hometown. As he would once express “Prague won’t let you go, the little mother has claws”. Once the seat of the Holy Roman Empire it is one of the most beautiful cities in the world but under all that beauty is a real city with personality and character, with an untold history both obscure and sometimes dark.

Prague won’t let you go, the little mother has claws

Franz Kafka

Geography

Margaret Thatcher once reminded us the the Czech Republic sits at the geographical and cultural heart of Europe. It is not Eastern Europe as some would refer to the Czech Lands but directly at its heart. Not only did the Bohemia crown hold sway over the Holy Roman Empire, but Prague was its capital city.

Speaking of which, the subject of this article sits on both banks of the Vltava river in an important watershed where over 99 watercourses flow into this river. The city is built on the Prague plateau and is relatively flat with the exception of a few hills that now serve as prominent features in the landscape. Two of these hills are located on the west side of the city. The most important of which is the iconic castle hill but the tallest of them is Petřín, home to a monastery of the same name. The east side is mostly flat in the old town but rises up towards Vítkov and the bohemian district of Žižkov.

A Brief History

Although primarily known for its medieval history and later baroque character, Prague has a long and complex history dating as far back as the Iron Age.

Foundational Myth

The foundation of Prague as a Czech city goes back to a legend. Libuše wife of Přemysl the Ploughman, founder of the Přemyslid dynasty, has a prophecy after observing the landscape from a rocky cliff high above the Vltava river.

I see a great city whose glory will touch the stars.

Libuše

According to legend she was the one who ordered a castle and a town called Praha to be built. This would have taken place in the 8th century.

Iron Age, Celts and the Germanic Migrations

Celtic tribes settled here during the fifth and fourth centuries BC where they built a fort (or oppidum) in a suburb of the city. The name Bohemia derives from them and means the “home of the Boii people”. They were driven out by the Germanic tribes in the first century B.C.

In the second century these tribes established their own city called Casurgis. These Germans would move west in a great migration during the fall Western Rome.

Slavic Migrations, Great Moravia and the Přemyslids

The Germans would be replace by a Slavic tribe called the Venedi and over the next few centuries the Czech tribes would build their own settlements, eventually merging with the Great Moravian Empire. The Germans pried Bohemia away from the union with the Slovaks Slavs of Moravia and forced them into the Holy Roman Empire under the yolk of the Franks, yet for the time being they retained their own line of kings.

The Czechs would begin work on Prague Castle in the 9th century on the site of a previous 8th century fortification. This first dynasty was called the Přemyslids and would be the ones to build up many of the early iterations monuments you see in Prague today, including Vyšehrad and the Cathedral. Under their rule the famed Jewish community of Prague began to take shape, over the course of the 10th century.

Holy Roman Empire and the House of Luxembourg

After the Přemyslids dynasty’s male lineage died out, the Kingdom of Bohemia passed to the house of Luxembourg though its female lineage. Prague would hit its apex under the 14th-century reign (1346–1378) of Emperor Charles IV. I say Emperor as Charles was Holy Roman Emperor and his capital was Prague! Under his rule the famous Charles bridge and other Gothic structures like the reworked cathedral were constructed. He also created Charles University, the first Slavic institution of its kind.

Under his rule the city was the third largest in the empire by area after Rome and Constantinople. The city was a center of trade for German and Italian bankers and merchants and also hosted a mint.

After the death of Charles and the rise of King Wenceslaus IV, both the Empire and city were beset by problem. In 1389 the clergy encouraged the wholesale murder of the entire Jewry, a terrible chapter for the city.

In 1402, the turmoil was renewed as the preacher Jan Hus, inspired by John Wycliffe, incited for reform at the Bethlehem Chapel in a type of proto-protestant reformation. Hus was summoned to the Council of Constance, put on trial for heresy, and burned at the stake in Constanz in 1415. Yet he had lit a fire under the Czech people and they were outraged, rediscovering a long simmering Czech nationalism dormant since they had been forced into the Germanic yolk.

Tis led to a popular rebellion, led by a Prague priest called Jan Želivský. This event would stir up the brutal and famed Hussite Wars. Furthermore, the city saw further action when in 1420, a major victory, the Battle of Vítkov Hill, was won against the crusading forces of Emperor Sigismund when peasants and city militia led by the general Jan Žižka defeated him. His statue sits at that spot today!

After this turmoil the city once again continued to grow at a steady pace, even without the luster of being an imperial capital.

Early Habsburg Domination

King Ottokar II was one of the greatest monarchs of the medieval period, and with military might, his granting of brewing rights and protection for the Jews it is hard to fault him. Yet he made a grave mistake that would haunt the Czechs, and it was not just his late military defeat at their hands. The ruler of Bohemia also conquered much of Western Austria, yet his interactions with the Habsburg dynasty had him entangled with them and with the last of his dynasty dying out, a succession crisis was engineered and a personal union struck, that resulted in the Bohemian crown falling into the hands of this German family in 1526.

Not only was the German language forced on Czech in grammar schools but religious repression was also the rule of law. After all the new overlords were fervent Catholics. Yet as a result of the counter-reformation, the Habsburgs also left a legacy of baroque architecture as built by the Jesuit order that is well reflected in the city of Prague. For all their faults the Habsburgs knew their architecture.

Despite the new masters, Prague thrived. Holy Roman Emperor Rudolf II made the city his home and the city benefited from his royal patronage. With all the eminent figures present the city, due to the royal court, it was once again seen as a capital of European culture.

Thirty Years War

In 1618, the famous second defenestration of Prague provoked the Thirty Years’ War. A defenestration is when you throw someone out a window, as such this is a reference to the famous incident where two Habsburg governors were thrown out of a Prague castle window by Protestants. As a result of this event, Ferdinand II of House Habsburg was deposed, and his place as Frederick V, Elector Palatine (the Winter King) took his place as King of Bohemia. Despite the protestants hopes of a victory, their army was crushed in the Battle of White Mountain in 1620, in what is a suburb of Prague today. This was the last grasp at freedom and sharp reprisals ensued. With 27 protestant leaders executed in the Old Town Square in 1621. Prague was forcibly converted back to Roman Catholicism as well as rest of Czech lands.

Later in the Thirty Years War, both in 1631 and 1648, city was attacked by Electorate of Saxony. These tumultuous events were a particularly harsh period for Prague and the rest of the Kingdom Bohemia and the capital lost a third of its population. Although, the 17 century did see a Jewish comeback of sorts.

Maria Theresa, the enlightened Austrian monarch would choose the Czech lands as the empire’s industrial heartland, a policy largely benefiting Prague. She passed on her first choice, Slovakia due to a taxation dispute with the governing Hungarian nobility, a fact that unfortunately held the Slovak nation back.

Prussians and the Revolutions of 1848

In 1744, Frederick the Great of Prussia invaded Bohemia in a the Third Silesian War (Seven Years’ War). This was one of the many wars the Prussian ruler waged against the Maria Theresa. Prague fell and the old town was severely damaged a feat that was repeated in 1757 when Frederik returned, he did not take the city this time. Yet the 18th century was kinder to the city then the last and the city once again grew to new height, and the Baroque city that we know today took shape.

The revolutions in 1848, rocked the continent. A new generation, inspired by poets and romantics began to vie for new freedoms. This was especially true for the Slavic people, leading to them being suppressed in the empire. In 1848 the Slavic Congress of Prague took place in the city and all of the stars of the Slavic academia took part. This included Ľudovít Štúr, the Slovak poet who completed the Codification of the Slovak language and spurred Pan-Slavism! The congress was broken up but its legacy remained.

The following years saw the rise of identity, and Czech National Revival began its rise. Czech once again replace German as the language of the people, mostly due to the prestige of the revival and the influx from the countryside.

World Wars and Interbellum Czechoslovakia

The advent of a World War presented a unique opportunity for the Slavs. Through their ex-pratriot communities in America, their lobbying and fundraising efforts played dividends. In fact the Cleveland and Pittsburgh agreements set the scene for the modern Czechoslovak state (with the addition of the Transcarpathian Rus’) via the US president Woodrow Wilson. Prague was chosen as the capital of this new state led by president Tomáš Garrigue Masaryk. The fist years were difficult due to corruption and poor political decision making yet the Czech lands were blessed with an industrial might largely due to Maria Theresa’s policies.

Prague was occupied early in the Second World War and the occupation was a brutal one for the Czechs. A nearby town saw the assassination of the Nazi official Reinhard Heydrich by Czechoslovak national heroes Jozef Gabčík and Jan Kubiš in 1942. For their role the Czechs of the town were killed or sent to concentration camps. The Jews had it worse, however, and their population was extinguished in the holocaust.

In February 1945, Prague suffered from bombing raids by the US Army Air Forces and some heritage damage was recorded. While the Americans paused in Pilsen, the Red Army took Prague. The Czech government was reinstated but the communists had already put in their stooges. In may Germans expelled and in 1948 they staged a coup d’état, official joining Eastern Bloc. Communism would prove to be a cruel mistress.

Cold War Under Soviet Rule and the Velvet Revolution

The puppet government in Prague instituted a processes of Stalinization, nationalizing enterprises and using secret police to put down Czech dissenters. It was not until 1967, that hope would re-emerge. Ruling the land was a reformer, Alexander Dubček, who proclaimed a new system “Socialism with a human face. It was the Czech summer of love and it would soon be crushed by the Soviets who had no need for love but who did know brutality. The street of Prague would be filled with red army tanks, an occupation that would last until 1991. This new period of “normalization” was better then Stalinization but but not by much.

The Velvet Revolution would start with peaceful protests in Slovakia, and spread to Prague where the police beat the young student sparking a larger movement led by Václav Havel, a dissident and signatory to the famed Charter 77. The iconic shot of this protest in from Wenceslas square where both Havel and Dubcek appear together on a balcony addressing a crowd that had filled the square.

1993’s Velvet divorce saw Prague become the capital of a unitary Czech state.

Modern Era

The post communist period saw raid economic growth under, liberalization and a free market. Václav Havel was elected president of the Czech Republic after the dissolution of Czechoslovakia. With their creative impulses finally freed, many Czechs in Prague became business owners. Although the pace of growth has slowed, the city has greatly benefited from the fall of Communism as it prepares for its next chapter.

Transportation

Getting around Prague is a breeze, with a plethora of travel options for both inter and intra city transportation and links between both, it should not be difficult for one to figure out their way around the city.

Intracity Buses

There are two major bus terminals in and around the city center. The first is the terminus near the Florenc metro station. It primarily handles cheaper domestic routes operated by Flixbus Regio-Jet. The second is the bus terminal on the roof of central station. Although difficult to find, most of the stops can be identified by a little bit of reading and asking around. Be sure to arrive early as it is much less organized then Florenc.

Intracity Trains

There are three main stations accessible by metro the first is Hlavní Nádraží (Central Station). Located in Prague 2, it is the terminus for most domestic and international trains. The second is Anděl, a popular stop located in the south east. The third is Holešovice, located to the north in Prague 7.

Finally there is a fourth station of importance in the core and that is Masarykovo nádraží. Although not accessible by metro, it is just a short walking distance from a station.

Subways, Trams and Buses

While in the confines of the city, you can get around just about anywhere with a combination of trams and the metro. Prague is fairly walkable and as such it is a pleasant experience to take public transit. The city has a good mix of cool “retro” trams and modern passenger cars.

Do make sure you buy your tickets on the app ahead of time, or at the station. Fares are enforced and there is often officers checking for tickets in the metro! Speaking of which the metro has three lines and is clean, modern and safe.

Funicular Railway

For those that wish to avoid hiking up Petrin, an inclined railway will take you up the mountain for a fee! The tram take you under the hunger wall and into a cozy station. From here you can enjoy Petrin’s attractions.

Airport

The Václav Havel Airport in Prague is also clean and modern but unfortunately is located far from the city core. There is a bus route servicing it however.

What to do in Prague

I taught English in Prague for a short period, and while doing so made a close group of friends. As such a have a soft spot in my heart for the city, and those nights I spent in their company. I’m sure they would agree with me that with so much to do in Prague it is impossible for one to be bored. As you will likely want to stick to the core in the first few days and then branch out.

Hradčany, Malá Strana and Castle Hill (Prague 1)

Across on the west bank of the Vltava, from where the old town (Staré Město) can be found today stands a proud mound, now occupied by Prague castle . Below it is a residential quarter called the Malá Strana (“Lesser Quarter”). Founded in 1257, under King Ottokar II, it replaced an older village in what would become the castle area (Hradčany). The residents of the town were of German origin and were gifted the right to administer the law autonomously, in line with their medieval Magdeburg rights (Town Privileges). Binding both together is the world famous Charles Bridge, will will discuss this iconic piece of architecture later.

Alternatively you can arrive by the Malostranská metro but then you would miss some of the big landmarks buildings by the river such as the Strakova akademie. To access the castle itself you can either scale up via a pathway near the geological survey building, not far from the Winged Lion Memorial. Another landmarks is park Holubička.

Otherwise you can take Thunovská, a regular city street, up to the castle. It will terminate on the separate side of the fortifications from the path mentioned above.

Hradčany

Once up you will have to check you bag at a security checkpoint but will be free to explore.

From the battlements you will be afforded great views of Malá Strana below.

Once inside the castle you will have to pay separately for many of the attractions, such as the pretty golden lane street, the cathedral or the palaces.

Chef among the attractions is the St. George’s Basilica, a 10th century church rebuilt during the 12th century but with a clearly later addition of a baroque façade. You will also find the Gothic St. Vitus Cathedral housing the Tomb of St.Nepomuk. The cathedral is surrounded by a pleasant cobblestone square.

Continuing along you will walk into the Second Courtyard of Prague Castle where you can find Kohl’s Fountain.

Exiting the castle grounds you will come across the residential section of Hradčany where you will be greeted by a T.G Masaryk statue.

Once again the views from above are magnificent.

At the back end of Hradcany Square you will find the beautiful Toskánský palác. Conceived by Count Michael Osvald Thun-Hohenstein for its proximity to the castle sometime before 1690, it is unfortunately not open to the public.

The Loreta (also goes by Loreto!)

If you continue past the palace, heading west you will find the world famous Loreto church, a popular pilgrimage destination known for its chime, home to many religious treasures. The building is a cloister with an interior courtyard. The exterior façade dates from the 18th century but much of the rest of the building from the 17th. It’s construction was financed by a Czech noblewoman, Kateřina Lobkowicz.

Inside you will find a particularly detailed central church, a rectangular blob covered in sculpted marble by Italian architect Donat Bramant, called the “holy hut”. The Loreto is a replica of the one magically transported to Italy in the ‘translation’ of the holy house, a simple dwelling where Virgin Mary is supposed to have lived. If it does not look too simple that is because the pope gave the original an upgrade back in the day. That tomb inspired many noble families to build their own family chapels in this same renaissance style. In fact this a replica of another one of these replica’s the Dietrichstein tomb. The vaulted brick inside burned down in 1921 but has once gain been restored and features and alter to the Virgin Mary.

Inside the building itself you will find a multiple of exhibits, my favorite being a display to a saint that looks a lot like Jesus in a robe (“Transgender Jesus) but is not. You will also find many religious items made of gold, silver and diamond as well as a reproduction of the mortuary chambers / catacombs below the Loretta that cannot be visited by tourists at this time.

From back at the Masaryk statue you can take Thunovská Street back down to the metro or to explore the rest of the district down below.

The upper reaches of this street are very pretty and are filled with small boutique hotels, tourist shops and small businesses.

You can also find the KGB Museum and the Museum of Alchemists and Magicians of Old Prague

Malá Strana (Malostranské náměstí)

When you start reaching an even level, you will be near Malostranské náměstí, a pretty square built around the alluring dome of the massive baroque dome of St. Nicholas’ Church.

Malá Strana (South)

Heading south from St. Nicholas’ Church you can look back at that glorious dome as it fades from view.

It is in this part of the neighborhood that you will find the Czech Museum of Music, the Vrtba Garden and Church of Our Lady Victorious containing the Infant Jesus of Prague

The later is one of the must see attractions in Prague. Built in 1611 on the site of a previous church it houses the infant Jesus of Prague, one of the symbols of the city and something that you will see in almost every souvenir show.

The church is gorgeous on the inside and is a great example of the Baroque style.

Makes sure to look for the little baby Jesus statue. He is usually wearing an outfit that changes every so often. As you can imagine switching out an outfit on a 16th figurine is no small task. You can learn more about the different outfits and colours he wears if you visit the exhibit on the upper floors. There is also a gift shop if you want to purchase your own little Jesus.

Malá Strana (Waterfront)

Near the Charles bridge you will come across a very interesting part of the lesser town. Home to the Čertovka canal, this old mercantile quarter is home to many interesting businesses along this beautiful boating route. Its just not something you would expect from Prague.

Along the canal you will also encounter the replica of a waterwheel, which is pretty neat. You will get a great view of this canal from the western portion of the Charles bridge.

Along the waterfront itself you will find a trio of attractions that includes the Kafka Museum, Muzeum Slivovice R. Jelínek (if you are into plumb brandy) and the narrowest street in Prague.

Many western tourists will also flock to see the Lennon wall, but to be honest it is very over hyped.

Surely the most interesting attraction in this part of the Mala Strana, however is the Virgin Mary under Chain. Belonging to the nights of Malta, it really took be by surprise!

Letná (Prague 7)

On a plateau above Hradčany, this district has more to see then one would think. One of the first things to do is to explore the part near the castle overlook. Here you will find the Sand Gate, now housing a cute cafe. This was once part of the castle fortifications and defended this approach to the city, when a star fort surrounded the city. The structure dates from the 1830’s.

Among the remarkable buildings, you will find the pretty green roofed Queen Anne’s Summer Palace, dating from the 16th century.

From the park you will get great views of the city.

As well as the castle.

For those seeking a different vantage point, head east from the casle overlook to a large green space called Letna Park. On your way by check out Kramář’s Villa and the Hanau pavilion.

The park itself also has some strange artwork like this statue of an egg.

This area has a large central concrete mound that was once hone to Prague’s most hated monument, one to Joseph Stalin. You can find more information about this monstrosity in the museum of Communism.

When the regime fell, so too did the statue. What is left is a mound, with a large metronome, that is a popular spot with skateboarder. You will also be afforded some amazing views of the old town.

Holešovice (Prague 7)

Located north of the Old Town, Letna and the Vlata River, this neighborhood is on the mend after having suffured greatly during the Second World War and the post-war era. Here you will find an authentically Czech place with great restaurants, sporting facilities, fairgrounds, museums and an architecturally interesting housing stock. It is also where I stayed during my time teaching English in Prague, so I have a soft spot for it.

In the section north of Letna you will find both the National Museum of Agriculture National Technical Museum, as well as the football stadium. The area is home to a few pop-up cafe’s otherwise it is unremarkable.

The rest of the district is a little more edge. Old factories are a big part of the landscape and decaying old apartments show what the district was once like. Many places are seeing new development, so large empty lots where a bombed out building once stood may once again see some life. You will also come across a few boarded up places, yet it will not be lasting for long.

My first day in Prague, I checked into my place in Holesovice and went for a walk along the railways tracks. Eventually I came across an old station with an artwork installation of an upright track. A weird feeling sunk over me, probably due to having visited many holocaust memorials, could this be where Jews were deported from? Unfortunately, I found out that I was correct and that Jews were deported from Holesovice to Terezin Camp with a final destination at Auschwitz in Poland.

In the north end of the neighborhood you will find Královská obora Stromovka park, a beautiful green space with Governor’s Summer House overlooking it. You can also find the Rudolfova štola sewer entrance nearby.

Beside this park you will find one of the most overlooked attractions in the city, Výstaviště Praha Holešovice! This massive complex will transport you back in time despite its relative abandonment and emptiness. Constructed for 1891 world fair, it hearkens back to a time where the world had a lot of ambition. The complex, headlined by the stunning Industrial Palace, is host to exhibitions, concerts and other cultural events. Next door, you will find the Tipsport Arena, home of the HC Sparta Praha hockey team. A cool nightclub in the area is the steampunk themed Cross Club!

Although they have seen better days many of the buildings adjacent to the palace have found new avenues and been converted to new uses with several undergoing renovations at the time of my visit. You will find a Planetarium, Modern Art Gallery, Aquarium and most importantly the Lapidarium of the National Museum. The later is a gallery housing old statues and antiquities.

The main street in this district is a tram avenue called Dukelských Hrdinů. Terminating at the Industrial Palace, this street puts on a dazzling display of Art Nouveau architecture and features my local hangout of choice, Bar Sedma. It is one of the few parts of the district to have avoided destruction and managed to keep its charm and authenticity

The street intersects with Strossmayerovo, a street featuring the Church of St. Anthony of Padua.

Built at the beginning of the 20th century, in a Neo-gothic bohemian style it is by far the most striking building in the district.

Petřín (Prague 1)

One of the most recognizable geographical features Petřín sits up high above the city, 130 meters above Vltava river. It is taller then castle hill and looks like a large hump emerging from the landscape

Surrounding its perimeter is the 14th century Hunger Wall defenses built during the 1361 famine by Emperor Charles IV, some say to alleviate the plight of the poor during this time but most likely for defense.

You can either take the funicular railway up the mountain or walk along its illuminated pathways, something that looks particularly cool at dusk. The funicular dates from 1891, along with many other structures on Petřín it was built for the 1891 Prague exhibition. The hill is featured prominently in Franz Kafka‘s short story “Description of a Struggle” and not so prominently in Milan Kundera’s novel The Unbearable Lightness of Being.

When you reach the tower, you will have the choice to visit several monuments the easiest to spot is a structure that resembles the Eiffel Tower!

Built in 1892 the 63.5 meters (208 ft), cast-iron tower offers sublime views of the landscape below if you wish to climb it. This is especially true for castle hill to the north of the old town to its east.

However my favorite view is that of the church of St Lawrence looking at the old town.

The distinctive red building is one of the more memorable structures at this location along with a a gateway that was part of a Mirror Maze built at Petřín Park for the 1891 Prague exhibition. It features a mural of the city

Unfortunately a tragic fire ensured the loss of a famed wood church, the Carpathian Ruthenian Church of the Saint Michael Archangel. This is especially damaging as it was one of the few physical reminders of when the Transcarpathian Russyn willingfully joined the Czechoslovak state, only to be ripped away by the communists.

Anděl and the South West (Prague 5)

This busy commercial district is home to many great hangouts as well as an outdoor market. The mix of industrial buildings and warehouse make for a neat vibe. If you are interesting one of these buildings houses Staropromen, the beer company. They have a visitors center if would like a pint or two. If hungry I recommend Manifesto Market Anděl.

Before you leave make sure to visit Brown-Nosers, a strange art exhibit by David Černý that is supposed to be a metaphor for Czech politics.

Old Town – Staré Město (Prague 1)

Opposite to the Mala Strana, you have the Old Town (Staré Město). Surrounded by thick stone walls it is the medieval heart of the city, with many of the monuments associated with the city.

Your visit will likely commence at the Old Town Square (Staroměstské náměstí). It is here that you will find the Prague Astronomical Clock, located on the side of the old city hall. Despite being heavily damaged during the Prague Uprising during the Second World War, the clock has been restored to its original splendor.

The main attraction here is the iconic gothic Church of Our Lady before Týn, dating from the 14th century, it feature twin spired of 80m in height. This architectural style is iconic in Bohemia.

Other attractions in the square include the Memorial plaque to the victims of the 1945 Prague Uprising, the St. Nicholas’ Church a hussite building dating from the 12th century and the Jan Hus monument.

A second square, Malé náměstí features a fountain with an intricate cast iron grate.

As you head south and approach the Charles Bridge the streets will narrow and interesting courtyards can be accessed from passages in the structures.

At the entrance of the bridge you will find two 17th century churches, St. Francis Of Assisi Church and the Church of St. Salvator. These baroque structures are pretty iconic. The former is host to organ concerts, if that is your thing.

Along the river here, you will be affored some of the best views of Prague.

NEarby you will find the Rudolfinum, a 19th century concert hall.

For those wishing to access the Klementinum, look for the hidden from view entrance beside the Church of St. Salvator.

After wrapping around the building you will come across a stand with tickets up the the famous library of Francis II, the enlightened Austrian Emperor. This building is also home to the Vyšehrad Codex, an 11th century illustrated manuscript that is the most important in Bohemia. They had it on display at the time of my visit.

The tour will then take you to the roof where great views of the city will e afforded to you!

The Charles Bridge replaced the Judith Bridge destroyed in the flood just prior to the reign of Charles IV. It was erected to connect the east bank districts to the Malá Strana and castle area. Today it is best known for its gothic towers and the procession of endless statues that greet visitors to its deck.

On the south side of the bridge you will find the Bedrich Smetana Museum, located in an 1880’s waterworks building. Oddly enough it is also home to the Karlovy Lazne, Nightclub – a massive nightlife buildings with many stories of party. It so strange exiting the place and being right by the Charles Bridge.

One of the most interesting parts of Old Prague is the Jewish Ghetto, unfortunately now emptied of Jews. It is located north of the Prague bridge and features wide avenues with the occasional building dating from the medieval period.

Among the most iconic structures are the Old-New Synagogue dating from 1270, Spanish Synagogue and the Prague Klausen Synagogue

Near the Museum of Decorative Arts you will find the Jewish Ghetto museum. This is a must see attraction in Prague. To enter it you must pass through the doors of the Pinkas Synagogue, a 16th century building, now standing as a memorial hall dedicated to 80 000 Czech Jewish holocaust victims. The synagogue walls have the names of the ghetto Jews on its walls and try to tell the story of the lives lost.

From here your admission gains you access to a 15th century Jewish graveyard, witch I found to be quite interesting.

In the south part of the district you will find more tourist attractions such as the beer museum sex machine museum

The main attraction however is the Bethlehem Chapel, where Jan Hus (inspired by John Wycliffe) once preached. Angry with the corrupt Church, he wanted reform and was vocal about it. In retribution, Hus was summoned to the Council of Constance, under fake auspices of listening to him. Instead he was put on trial for heresy, and burned at the stake. His death created a void with the catholic church that still exists to this day. Anyway, this was his home parish and it amazes me that it still stands here, in memorial of a great man!

You should check out Charles University, the oldest Slavic institution of higher learning and in Central Europe. Established in 1348 by Charles IV, it was been a superb institution for most of its history, with the exception of the Communist years where only those checking class and party boxes were allowed to attend. As such many Czech intellectuals had to attend technical school or were kicked out of the system, where they founded the informal underground university lectures.

Make sure you stop at the Legiobanka building, one of my favorites in the core. The buildings interesting facade represents the exploits of the Czechoslovak Legion in Russia during the First World War. The particularly striking style is known as rondocubism, essentially the Czech Art Deco.

If you enjoyed the city so far, you may want to pay it a visit by night! Have a few pints and see the city at its most serene, with tasteful uplighting to guide you to the next landmark. It is an absolutely enchanting experience.

Nové Město (Prague 2)

Nové Město, or the New Town, is a district that sprung up around the old city walls of Prague. Its construction was ordered by Emperor Charles IV, the mastermind behind many of the monuments for dear to the city. As you know this guy loved his capital, and laid out the design of the new town himself. Today the district plays host to a mix of bars, museums, shops and residential. There are some great art Nouveau Buildings to be found as well.

Your first impression of the New Town will likely be formed in Náměstí Republiky, the large square just outside of the Old Town. Its most noticeable landmark is the Powder Tower, a gothic masterpiece that was once part of the city wall.

In this square you will find many of Prague’s most prestigious institutions such as the Symphony Orchestra and the Hybernia Theater. Prague was a capital of culture and many of the worlds greatest composers spent at least a few years here including the famous Pole Frédéric Chopin.

Another landmark is the beautiful Hotel Paris Prague as well as its ajoining building.

This square is well connected by both metro and tram, with a major stop by the City Center mall!

You will also find the Museum of communism next door to the Billa grocery store. It is a little small and overpriced but interesting if you are a cold war history buff. One omission that I noticed that they made in the museum, it that the neglected to mention that the Velvet Revolution, that started in Bratislava.

In the south end of the district, towards Vyšehrad, you will find some of the most stunning architecture in the city (which is saying a lot, it is Prague after all). You will find grand structures such as National Theater and the Park of National Awakening.

You will also find the famed Žofín Palace, on a river island, where the Slavic Congress of Prague took place. Here you will find a plague

A popular attraction in this district is the Dancing House by Frank Gehry. Some think that it is a great work of architecture, but just like all of Ghery’s buildings, its a useless piece of crap. This is made even clearer when you consider how beautiful the existing streetscape already is!

Don’t miss Ss. Cyril and Methodius Cathedral where you will find the National Memorial to the Heroes of the Heydrich Terro. This is where the Czech assassin of the Nazi took their last stand. For more information see the link below:

A Prague church that defied Nazi rule – BBC Travel

In the east of the district apreaching the train station, you will find the Opera House as well as the famous Woodrow Wilson statue. The US may have soured on the man but the Czech apreciate that he helped facilitarte the creation of Czechoslovakia.

As you leave the station be sure to stop off and see the Jerusalem Synagogue. Likely the prettiest in the city, it incorporate a colorful neo-moorish design with art nouveau!

The district is also home to many intresting sculptures and public art.

Another cool attraction is a restaurant called Zvonice, located in an old city tower.

If you enjoy museums and history you have to py a visit the Wenceslas Square. This masiv bouvelard sandwiched between the Můstek and Museam metro station is where some o the Velvet Revolution’s greatest moments took place. It is also home to some of the city best kown institutions and buildings.

One of these is the National Museum. One of the first in the Salvic world, and helped the Czechsdevelop their national conciousness.

The structure dates from 1818 and features exhibits ranging from the natural sciences to historical artifacts.

An intresting artifact that I found was this Czech typewritter produced in the United States, showing the growing importance of the diaspora in the Americas.

Be sure to climb the roof for great views of the city via a secret chamber in the myseum roof.

Are are a few pictures of the institution.

If you are staying in the area, you could always visit the Havelske Trziste market for some fresh produce.

Vyšehrad (Prague 2)

Approaching Vyšehrad from Andel, via an old rusty street rail bridge – this 10th century fortress with the distinct blackened church spires of the Saints Peter and Paul Basilica rises from the water casting its morose shadow across the depressed February landscape. The twin 58 meter towers are are an iconic part of the Prague waterfront.

Below the fortress lies a small neighborhood tucked between the walls and the arterial roadway. Many of these belong to educational institution and have a stately look to them.

The street they are located on will bring you to the famed Brick Gate, one of the entrenches to the fortress.

Flanked by thick masonry walls, this bastion offers fantastic views of the neighborhood below. You will also get great views of the river as well as of the bridge I came across. In the distance Prague castle is visible.

Legend has it that Vyšehrad was the site of the first settlement in Prague after its founding by Duke Krok. It was considered equal to castle hill under the Přemyslid dynasty, even surpassing the prior when Vratislav II moved his seat of power here (it was moved back).

The centerpiece of the complex is the the Saints Peter and Paul Basilica and its distinctive twin towers. Founded in 1070–1080 by the Czech King Vratislav II, it was rebuilt in neo-gothic in 1249 and has seen many subsequent changes.

On the outside of the church you will find the cemetery and Slavín, a monumental tomb housing notable Czechs.

The inside of the church is one of my favorites in Europe, where magnificent paintings detail the history of art, Christianity and the Czech land. The chuch was made a basilica by Pope John Paul II.

For those into saintly relics, the shoulder blade of St. Valentine is stored in the church basement!

Sacked twice in the tumultuous 15th century ruined and then remodeled in 17th century, one can appreciate the layers of history contained behind the walls. The are a lot of neat things to see up here if you want to waste a few hours just walking around!

Vinohrady (Prague 2)

Radiating out from Náměstí Míru square and its beautiful 19th century basilica, this trendy neighborhood is a favorite of expats. It is also accessible by transit and close to the city center!

Near the basilica square you will find the Vinohrady Theater, a stunning art-nouveau theater dating from the early 20th century. The achitechture of the street here is splendid and I encourage you to walk around and take some of it in. Be sure to visit the Gröbe Villa and the Grotta.

There are also some nice parks, including Riegrovy sady where locals like to hang out and enjoy the nice weather. For those who like drinking its peak offers a nice beer garden for you to meet friends at.

Žižkov and Vítkov (Prague 3)

In 1420, the Battle of Vítkov Hill, was won against the crusading forces of Emperor Sigismund by citizens of the city both peasants and city militia. Leading them was the general Jan Žižka. In commemoration a statue of him sits on the scene of his great victory!

From the hill you will get great views of Žižkov, a well known district of Prague with some fun bars but also drug and crime issues. Its landmark is a massive concrete radio tower built in Soviet times that contrasts with the picturesque streets. Up close it does have some interesting sculptures.

The statue itself stands on a massive podium and features the famed general on a horse.

The podium offers great views of the city including Petrin in the distance.

Just west of the monument Žižkov, you will find the in Military History Institute in Prague: The Army Museum Žižkov and the now pedestrian Viadukt Velká Hrabovka. Some of these pathways such as this graffiti filled industrial alleyway are products of the neighborhoods more bohemian culture!

The buildings are also stunning, so enjoy the hood, just stay away from purchasing drugs in alleys that’s how you get robber here. The neighborhood is perfectly safe otherwise!

Karlín and Florenc (Prague 8)

I did some English as a second language teaching in this district of the city and so I am quite fond of it. Karlin is an old industrial neighborhood with some hipster bohemian chic, currently undergoing a transformation due to its proximity to downtown. The neighborhood is currently delineated and separated from Florenc by rail viaducts and features many dive bars. Here old buildings are often converted to lofts or integrated into new construction.

Chief among the neighborhood’s attractions are St. Cyril and Methodius and the decaying but beautiful Invalidovna palace.

The square around this church is filled with gorgeous buildings and it looks stately.

Florenc is no different with its large bus terminal and metro stations it is a bit of a transportation hub. Its chief attraction is the the City of Prague Museum, housed by a beautiful buildings. There are quite a few homeless here under the railways and near the McDonalds. They are mostly harmless.

A tunnel currently exists that takes you under Vítkov Hill, connecting with Žižkov! It can be very convenient, especially if visiting the monument at the top of Vítkov.

Hvězda, White Mountain and Šárka – Lysolaje Nature Park (Prague 6)

Prague 6 is a rather interesting district, despite its relative remoteness from the city. You just have to know where to look. For those interested in history, you can actually find the cairn memorializing the Battle of White Mountain, on the battlefield that you have likely heard so much about.

Hvězda is an old fortification, now a palace on a hill built in the shape of a six pointed star located in a sprawling public park.

While Lysolaje Nature Park offers incredible views of a natural ridge via a hike accessible my metro from the city center!

Bubeneč and Podbaba (Prague 6)

There are more treasures to be found in this district including the old wastewater treatment plant, now a museum detailing the history of the site. You will also find the art deco Hotel International Prague, one of the most interesting skyscrapers in the city.

Troja Palace, Botanical Gardens and the Prague Zoo

Located in a bend in the Vltava river, north of the capital, this stunning palace is worth visiting despite its far flung location. I decided to walk here on foot from Holešovice, and took a bridge over the river and one of its canals to the palace. It is a pleasant walk along and old towpath that was likely part of the original canal system.

The pink colored palace dates from the 19th century and features a romantic hedge garden around its perimeter. Inside you will find ornately painted frescos. On a hill behind the palace stands a small church and a winery that you can stop for a drink at!

The winery adjoins a large botanical garden that even includes a Japanese section as well as the Prague Zoo.

Hloubětín (Prague 9)

This suburban castle has quite the interesting history. For more information click here.

Where To Stay

Prague as a wealth of hostels or short term housing to choose from, I would recommend staying in an apartment near the metro station or tram stops in bohemian Holešovice or a hostel such as the Czech Inn in hip Vinohrady. Alternatively there are plenty of other great hostels in the core near Prague 1 and Prague 2.

Day Trips

Due to is central location, Prague is the perfect base for day trips radiating out towards the small Czech towns and cities. In reality much of the western part of the country fits within a 2.5 hour radius, making it that most cities can be visited for the day. Czech railways are very cozy so being a newspaper, snacks and a few beers and enjoy the ride.

Karlštejn

The big daddy of Bohemian Castles, this fortification was the home of Holy Roman Emperors including Charles IV and the Luxembourg Dynasty. For more information click here.

Visit Other Castles That are Equally Impressive

With thousands of castles and stately homes, the Czech Republic has one of the highest rates of castles per capita and the region surrounding Prague has a few great fortresses not named Karlštejn, for example Křivoklát Castle and Okoř Castles.

Visit Charming Bohemian Towns like Jenštejn and Český Krumlov

Although the charming towns of Moravia may be out of reach for a simple day trip, there are still cute little towns such as Jenštejn that may peak your interest. Yet by far the prettiest town in Bohemia is Český Krumlov, a charming castle town built around a river bend.

Better understand the Tragedy of the Holocaust at Terezín

A long daytrip from Prague, but one worth it, is the old fortress town Terezín. Home to a concentration camp it boasts a history both tragic and insightful. I strongly recommend it, especially if you are interested in the history of Czech Jews.

Get Spooked at the Kutná Hora Ossuary

Known for one of the most iconic ossuaries of all time Kutna Hora is a rapid train ride from the capital and features soaring gothic church spires and what were once some of the great silver mines in Europe.

Experience Beer Culture in Pilsen and České Budějovice

The original Budweiser or the original Pilsner, the choice is yours. Both of these fantastic medieval cities are worth a visit but neither Ceské Budějovice nor Pilsen are near each other.

Basque in the Steam of the Karlovy Vary Hot Springs

The ornate resort town of Karlovy Vary will blow you away with its elegant promenades and laid back attitude.

Better understand Hussite Culture in Tabor

Do you like Jan Hus? Then I have the place for you! The Hussite town of Tabor was at the center of their universe. It is here that their culture and traditions thrived and spread before being closed down.

Visit the Sublime Swiss Cheese Landscapes on the Czech German Border – Bohemian Switzerland, and Saxon Switzerland

This natural wonderland is home to stunning rock formations along the Elbe on both sides of the border chief among the attractions are the Czech towns of Děčín and Teplice as well as the German Koningstein, and the iconic Bastei bridge.

Experience a Taste of Germany in Baroque Dresden

So many tourists told me that Dresden is boring and not worth a visit and I am glad to tell you that those people are dead wrong about the city. Rebuilt after the war, Altstadt may sometimes lack the thriving urban life that one would expect from such a major city but it is far by made up for by Bohemian Neustadt on the other side of the river. Dreden demands creativity but is easy to enjoy if one employs it.

Visit the Sight of One of WW2’s Most Daring Assassination’s in Lidice

This small village north-west of Prague was the site of the assassination’s of Nazi officer Reinhard Heydrich. Lidice was destroyed during World War II in retribution for this act. While male population was put to death; the women were sent to concentration camps. Today their lives are commemorated in a rose garden.

Pay a Visit to the Gates of Hell in Houska Castle

Located north of the capital, according to legend this castle was built over one of the gateways to Hell, to prevent the demons below it from reaching the rest of the world.

Visit Other Major Tourism Sites

A visit to most major cities is possible from Prague. Among my recommendations would be the second city of the Czech Republic Brno, the gateway to Moravia and the northern city of Liberec.

What to Eat and Drink

Popular dishes in Prague include Czech style goulash, with thick potato break. The Czech dish is a little more like a stew then its Hungarian counterpart, with less spice and a dark brown colour replacing the reddish tint. If you want good food at a reasonable price I recommend bar Sedma in Holešovice, as it was my local bar during my stay in the city. Honestly, as long as you avoid the old town or the tourist traps in the new town, Prague is a reasonable place.

As for what to drink, you cannot go wrong with Czech beer but if you are looking for something a little stronger you could try a shot of Slivovice to warm you. It is a popular plum brandy. with a high alchool percentage. Alternatively there is a tastier, but milder liquor called Moravska that is always a good time. I recommend either pear or berries. If you want to drink on the cheap, you can buy a 2 liter bottle of beer at the store for very cheap.

For those of you who are really into beer consider hitting a “beer spa”.

Conclusion

I hope that you enjoy Prague as much as I did. The streets may filled with hordes of drunken and idiotic tourists during the summer months, ravenous pests who care little for the epics of the centuries and the culture of the Czech people, yet beyond the whims of mortals lies an eternal city, prettier then Paris and more glorious then the Holy See itself.

So indulge in a dark Czech lager or a delightful pilsner on a cold rainy or snowy night and experience Prague’s bohemian delights and let the city inspire something greater in oneself then mere delights.

And yes I know that I am a pompous ass but I’m a few beers in and I refuse to change my paragraph!