Porto – The Unvanquished City of Port Lovers
The second city of Portugal, Porto or Opporto as it is often referred to, is a city simply radiating culture. One of my favorite destinations in the world, it has everything a backpacker like me could need; a friendly population, a unique geographical landscape, great works of civil engineering, an authentic historical feel and fantastic alcohol! What more can you ask for!
During my stay in the city I met a great group of Americans, one of which, my buddy Nick, would become a great travel companion!
Table of Contents
- Geography
- Transportation
- Domestic Connections
- Where to Stay
- A Brief History of the City
- Culinary Traditions
- Exploring Porto!
- Day trips
- Conclusion
Geography
Built on an escarpment at the mouth of the Douro River in northern Portugal, Porto is an important stop on the Portuguese Cominio de Santiago, what was supposed to be my next destination, but I had fallen ill. Although summers are dry and warm, you are likely to get rained on in the winter as the city experiences some of the highest precipitation in Europe.
If you follow the Douro river upstream, you will find an enchanting historic wine region where the grapes for Port and other fine wines are produced.
Fun Fact!
Porto, Portus Cale in Latin, is thought to be the origin of the name Portugal.
Transportation
Urban Transportation
There are several ways to travel throughout the city without a vehicle. The old town is very pedestrian friendly but walking up and down the massive hill it is built into can be exhausting. For those with weary feet you can take the urban tramway system with its fabulous retro train sets. Furthermore, a funicular rail system exists near the cable car
If you are seeking to travel to suburban areas or a trip to the other side of the Douro river, I recommend a ride down the Porto Metro system. This multi line system can get a little confusing since most of them share the same central platforms. Be careful what trains you are boarding. Furthermore, this system connects with the international airports for those taking a flight.
Domestic Connections
For those seeking an escape outside the city, a trip to the magnificent Sao Bento train station is an absolute must. Here you will find train lines to Aveiro, Braga, Guimares and Caide. Other domestic destinations can be accessed by bus.
Inside the station you will have a covered atrium and then an exterior yard containing the platforms. The station atrium contains stunning blue and white tiled murals (azulejos), installed by Portuguese artist Jorge Colaço from 1905 to 1916, this is considered to be a masterwork of art. On the mural you will find a semi-famous depiction of the marriage of King João I and Queen Philippa of Lancaster and the conquest of the city of Ceuta in Morocco by Henri The Navigator. After departing the station platforms the trains slip underground for a few miles, a remarkable feat of engineering.
Where to Stay
If I were to recommend a place to stay in Porto, it would undoubtedly be the Wine Hostel. This cozy accommodation located in the uphill section of is literally the perfect for hostel. I would not recommend anywhere else! in fact I met one of the coolest travel buddy’s ever here, so there is that!
A Brief History of the City
Antiquity and Moorish Period
Once the home of Celtic tribes, the region was occupied by Rome and Porto soon became a trading center due to its location between Olisipo (Lisbon) and Bracara Augusta (Braga). After the fall of Rome the city was occupied by the Visigoths and continued to be a place of importance.
In 711, the city fell to the Moors, Muslims from North Africa but was retaken in 868, by Vimara Peres, a vassal of the king of Castile. He would establish the county of Portugal, later becoming its own Kingdom under Alfonso Henriques.
Portuguese Kingdom and Empire
In 1387, Porto was the site of an event of significant international importance. John of Gaunt, a highly skilled English diplomat and noble, orchestrated the wedding of his daughter Phillipa of Lancaster, to the Portuguese monarch Joao I (John). This splendid union created the world’s oldest military alliance, the Treaty of Windsor, and would greatly influence the history of both maritime nations. Their children, the house of Aviz, would be known as the Illustrious Generation. Their marriage was one of the few real live stories of the medieval ages. Porto would grow to become an important shipping port during the 14th and 15th century, with wine transported down the Douro River and shipped from Porto.
Shortly after, in 1415, an expedition was launched from Porto to capture Ceuta in North Africa, led by Prince Henry the Navigator. After the conquest of the city he set his sights on the exploration of the African coast, setting in motion the age of Discovery.
The 18th century saw the city become a major industrial center. In 1703 trading relations were established with England and an English trading post was established in the city in 1717. The First Marquis of Pombal, one of the leading figures of the enlightenment, and the Prime Minister of Portugal at the time tried to counteract the monopolistic English trade of port wine by establishing a Portuguese monopoly on wine along with a series of reforms aimed at increasing the quality of the wine from the Douro valley (the first time quality controls of this type was established on wine in European history). In return the Portuguese wine producers rose up in what is called the “revolt of the drunks”.
The Napoleonic Wars and the Makings of Modern Portugal
In 1809, Napoleon invaded Portugal and the terrified civilian population of Porto tried to flee the invading army by crossing the river. This was a failure as the pontoon bridge collapsed drowning many. French power was soon to wane and a brilliant campaign by the British-Portuguese force under the command of Duke of Wellington, crossing the Douro river by wine barge to liberate Porto, this would drive the French out of the country.
Porto would pave the way for a liberal reform movement in 1820, only to see it crushed by a new absolutist monarch, Miguel I, in 1828. This led to a civil war and put Porto in its most precarious position yet. In 1832 it was besieged for 18 months and resisted, giving it the title “Cidade Invicta”. The rest of the 19th century was favorable to the city. Keeping with its liberal tradition, Porto started the movement to overthrow the monarchy in 1891 a process complete by 1910.
Breaking with tradition, radical Porto launched a monarchist restoration movement in 1919, creating the short lived Monarchy of the North.
Culinary Traditions
As a maritime city, Porto has a long culinary tradition. Since the best cuts of meat were bought up for the ship crews, the least appealing cuts of meat were left to be sold in city markets. Undeterred, the people of Porto embraced tripeiros (tripe), essentially a meat consisting of the cow’s stomach. This lead to the people from Porto being labeled the “tripe people” as they turned this into specialty dishes.
The primary culinary legacy of Porto is actually linked to the Douro wine region, something that will be further discussed later in this post. It is this wine that is transformed into port, a fortified dessert wine that captivated the hearts (and livers) of the British people. The wine is transported from the valley by way of flat bottom boats called Barcos Rabelos and stored in warehouses on the south side of the city.
Exploring Porto!
Porto can roughly be divided in two distinct segments. To the south of the river you have the traditional warehousing district of Porto, where barrels of wine and various merchandise have historically been stored. To the north you have the old town of Porto. This part of the city can be classified by two regions: the area closest to the waterfront, called the Ribeira, filled with patios and bars it is considered to be the touristic part of the city and a spectacular residential upper town where much of the day to day commercial activity takes place. Linking both sides of the river are a series of bridges, the most famous of which is the Dom Louis Bridge. This iconic steel truss structure spans both sides of the river gorge in one elegant arc. Inaugurated in 1886, the bridge was designed by Théophile Seyrig, a disciple of Gustaf Eiffel. Unfortunately for Theo, the bridge is often associated with the latter despite the fact that Eiffel lost the competition. Although the function of the decked structure has been modified several times since its inception, it is currently used for light rail trains.
JK Rowling, the author of Harry Potter book series, lived in the city from 1991-1993. For those that enjoy the children’s novels, it should be no surprise that Porto would have inspired the fantastic wizarding world that seems to have captivated so many.
North Porto
Ribeira (The Riverfront)
Your time in Porto will surely take you to the Ribeira, the traditional waterfront of Porto. It may seem relatively ship free today but Porto was one of the most important ports in Europe at one time. This is one of the few flat areas in the city and lies in the shadows of two steep hills above it.
The famed Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan, the leader of the expedition that would be the first to circumnavigate the globe, lived in Porto and may have be born here. It is no surprise that the rich maritime environment of the city would have prepared him for his journeys.
The port area is known for its colorful and narrow 18th century stacked townhomes. The composition of which has not changed in the last centuries. Authentic is a word etched in Porto’s DNA. An area close to the river, Bairro da Ribeira is the nucleus of Porto’s terrace and bar scene. It opens up to form a flat plaza at 1 Praca Ribeira where terraces are clumped together. The district includes two museums, a city museum and one dedicated to Port and built into an 18th century warehouse.
Ons of the major centers of the Ribeira is the Infante D. Henriques Square. The most important building in this square is the Bolsa Palace, a prominent building with a neoclassical facade and a clocktower. The building once served as the stock exchange of Porto before it was folded and included into the Lisbon exchange, an unfortunate series of events. The 19th century building is even more impressive in its ornate inside. Attached to the structure is a building of a rather older build, the Franciscan Monument Church Of St Francis. This 14th century building has an impressive crypt if you are to inclined to take a look!
On the northern end of the square is a red iron framed and glass windowed building. The stunning market building is a cathedral of light. Built during the 1880s the building now hosts restaurants and a semi-legendary nightclub where many fantastic live rock gigs took place.
Bairro da Sé (The Cathedral District)
Based on the hill directly north-east of the Ribeira, Bairro – more often just referred to as Se – is often referred to as the Cathedral district. At the top of the hill you will find the distinct rectangular shaped episcopal palace and the Romanesque cathedral. The palace was the former seat of the bishop of Coimbra and features a Rococo interior while the Cathedral is a symbol of old Porto, built during the 12th century it is one of the oldest structures in the city.
The monumental interior is something to be seen. The monumental naive is supported by thick pillars. Although simple stone in nature, the altar is of a more ornate nature. This is a must see!
The large plaza connecting the two offers great view of the Hillside neighborhood below.
The neighborhood of Se contains my favorite church in Porto, that of Saint Lawrence. The austere baroque facade looks like an ancient stone wall akin to Petra. It is located a stones throw from the Bishop’s Palace.
The complex is practically connected to the Ribeira by way of an elevator. The neighborhood around the church possesses the most character in the city and it was not so long ago that it was considered to be somewhat of a slum.
The narrow patchwork of streets was once considered to be a rough neighborhood and a no go area after dark. During the day, one would see pitiful veterans from Portugal’s foreign wars strung out on the streets as drugs were a plenty. Things are different today and unfortunately there are less and less of the traditional inhabitants left in the district. You will still find clothes hanging from the balconies and color fading from the facades
Just east of the Dom Luis Bridge, you will find the remains of the citadel of Porto’s Walls (called the Fernandina Walls) as well as the Santa Clara church. The famous bridge will give you the chance to walk over to the other side of the river by way of a sidewalk separated by bollards from the trains at the upper Baixa level and a second pedestrian deck at the Ribeira level. The wall was constructed by the bishops to protect Se and the narrow streets often incorporate some of the old towers and sections of wall.
Vittoria
Located on the Hill north west of the Ribeira Vittoria is an underrated part of the city. Primarily known for its sweeping views of the old town from the Miradouro da Vittoria. From here you will get a fantastic view of the cathedral, bridge and the episcopal palace.
The top of the district begins at the Jardim Cordoaria, a pleasant urban park facing the neoclassical facade of the University of Porto founded in 1911. The district is centered around this area and is considered to be a traditional commercial district of the city.
Not far from the lookout you will find the Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Vitória and the Monastery da Vittoria, stunning little churches but very typical of Porto. I just enjoy seeing the street open up as you turn corners to reveal the panoramic view displaying the other side of the river.
Finally the district contains two of the best nightlife streets in the city, Galleria de Paris and Rua do Almeida. Although details are fuzzy, I remember hitting an absinthe bar on the former.
Baixa (The Downtown/Upper Town)
The traditional downtown area of Porto is located behind Beirra. The district is known for the Sao Bento transportation hub mentioned above and for its fantastic 19th and 20th century architecture.
The most iconic building in this district is the Igreja dos Clérigos, with it’s elegant facade and tall belltower.
The 18th century building is considered to be somewhat of a landmark and can be used to way-find when you are stuck in the narrow disorienting streets of Se or Vittoria.
Not far from the belltower, just behind the university of Porto, those not yet sick of churches will find the Igreja de Carmo with its mosaics and palms.
More importantly you will find the Livraria Lello, one of the most impressive bookstores I have ever seen. The Art Nouveau business, dating from 1906, is home to a stunning wraparound staircase.
Just north of Sao Bento you will find the prettiest public space outside of the Ribeira, the Aliados square. This skinny public place runs from the block in front of Sao Bento to the town hall with its central stone tower at the other end. In the center is a metro station and at the far end a statue of Dom Pedro IV on horseback.
South Porto
Villa Nova de Gaia
Located opposite to the Ribeira, this district offers a stunning view of the city. It can be accessed via the lower deck of the Dom Louis Bridge.
The waterside district includes a series of long and narrow warehouses where port wine is stored. This includes famous brands such as Sandeman (where building dates from 1797) and many local brands. The facilities offer both tours of the “caves”, cave of course being French for cellar (not an actual cave!) and tastings. I did not know much about the history of this famous drink and so I enjoyed the strong fortified dessert drink with my ears and taste buds open. Tastings are cheap and due to the strong nature of the drink you will get drunk fast. I had company for my tasting as I had met a group of people on my walking tour and we decided to hang out together. A merry band of drunks. There are generally four types of port white, ruby, tawny and vintage aged in oak barrels.
If you are hungry, stop by the Mercado Beira-Rio for food. After you are done you will notice that everyone filters to a rooftop bar at 22 Largo Miguel Bombarda. The building is located by the Sandeman and is noted by its blue styled exterior. Overhead you will notice a cable car connection with Serra Do Pilar (see next section). The entrance to the patio is through the building, just go up to the top floor via the elevator. When I made it up I noticed that the group of friends that I made at the hostel the night before were there. We merged our respective groups into a single very merry bands of drunks. The view from the top is incredible so soak up the sun and enjoy the view.
Serra do Pilar/Alem
Located on the heights on the South side of the Dom Luis Bridge, Serra de Pillar cuts an impressive figure. The mountaintop monastery dates from the 16th century and is known for its circular shape. This is a great lookout for the rest of the city.
At the base of this hill you will find a series of old warehouses, many of them still in a state of abandonment. You will also find an abandoned ceramics factory and a chapel in rough shape (although it is being renovated). The Burmester port wine caves is located here!
Day trips
As the largest urban center in the north, Porto has a wealth of day trips to offer its visitors. Here are but a few of them.
Braga
The roman capital of Portugal, Braga has retained its importance as the third largest urban center in Portugal. This dynamic city is a powerhouse of northern Portugal and is noted for its particularly beautiful religious architecture and festivals.
Guimarães
The first capital of Portugal, this city seems almost like it was made out of stone. It was not my favorite destination in Portugal but could be of interest to history fanatics. Read my post on Guimares here.
Douro Valley
This famed UNESCO wine region located upstream of the city has captivated the attention of both wine enthusiasts and those looking for a stunning natural landscape. Many day tours leave Porto and head up the river by boat!
Conclusion
Porto is a unique destination, with a unique charm. I hope to return one day and consume even more copious amounts of alcohol. Although I caught a bad flu during my visit, I still had a grand old time and will certainly be returning.
PS: Porto > Lisbon 😉 Just my opinion sorry.
