Plitvice Lakes – From Zadar with Love
The most popular nature reserve in the expansive Croatian system, Plitvice offers something of a paradise to whomever visits. Within the narrow confine of its limestone cliffs you will find one of the most beautiful succession of waterfalls that I ever have laid my weary eyes on. One could call them a gem of natural ingenuity, the earth’s treasure, or even Mother Nature’s bounty.
Table of Contents
- How To Get Here and Where to Stay?
- Geography
- History of the Park
- Environmental Issues
- The Falls
- Conclusion
How To Get Here and Where to Stay?
Buses run to Plitvice from both the cities of Zadar and Zagreb, albeit it is simpler to access the site from Zadar. This journey takes anywhere from 2-3 hours by public bus. From those with limited time it may be worth going through a tour company and there are plenty to choose from in Zadar. Alternatively I have found public transit to be reliable in Croatia but I do know that the times for this bus are not always ideal. If you prefer simplicity, or wish to go as part of a group, most hostels, hotels and tourism agencies run full day trips to the park from Zadar. Keep in mind that the price of admission to the park is steep so you will want to take your time to explore it thoroughly.
Geography
The Park is located inland from coastal Dalmatia, in a rocky mountain region of central Croatia. The geology consists of limestone karsts, a system where water dissolves the softer rock (limestone, gypsum or dolomite) creating caves and subterranean streams. Think swiss cheese in rock! As such, the type of falls you see here is reminiscent of many other parks you will stumble upon throughout the Northern Balkans including Krka Park near Sibenik, Croatia and Kravica Waterfall, Bosnia.
The defining feature of this park, and what sets it apart from the above mentioned, is that it is a part of a non-stationary system of lakes. The flow of water is regulated by the sedimentation of chalk, called Tufa. This Tufa forms natural dams that regulate the flow of water but are often washed away. Hence this creates a unique and ever-changing ecosystem in the lakes. The water is non-stagnant and very clear for this reason.
History of the Park
While Plitvice was designated to the Croatian National Park System in 1949 and listed to UNESCO in 1979, the park’s long relationship with man goes back much further than that. The land surrounding the Plitvice has been pastoral since time immemorial and competing empires have laid their stakes to it.
Before the arrival of the Croats, the area has been inhabited by a rash of peoples including the Illyrians, Celts, Romans and the Avars. Subsequently these lands were incorporated within the Kingdom of Croatia and later a combined kingdom with Hungary. It is near the park that the Battle of Krbava Field took place. The Croats lost the battle to the Ottomans but both sides suffered heavy casualties, the Ottoman advance was temporarily stemmed. The Ottomans continued their expansion and the kings of Austria were offered the Croatian crown in an attempt to stem the tide. This failed and Plitvice was ruled by the Ottomans and later the Austrians when the Ottomans were fought back. For a time, this area became the frontier between Ottoman Bosnia and the Austrian Empire. Still threatened, Croats joined the Austrian military as professional soldiers and after much success in the armed forces a feeling of national awakening crept in. During the 20th century the area was developed as a tourism destination due to its natural beauty.
After the First World War, the State of Yugoslavia was created and the falls designated a National Park. During the Second World War, the lakes were a hotbed of anti-fascist activity hosting a meeting of the Croatian League of Communists in 1940 and in 1943 it held one of the four meetings of the National Anti-Fascist Council of the People’s Liberation of Croatia (ZAVNOH). The land returned to Socialist Yugoslavia after the war and Croatia was formed in 1991 after a short war with Serbian controlled Yugoslav Forces. Most of the buildings inside the park were destroyed during this period.
Environmental Issues
The park was included on the endangered list by UNESCO during the 1990’s. The primary reason was due to the heavy mining (land mines) of the park during the Croatian War of Independence. This was remediated shortly after the war but environmental issues continue to plague the park.
Factors such as over-tourism, wastewater disposal from nearby hotels, agricultural runoff and swimming during the course of the 20th century had a detrimental effect on the clear water that the lakes are known for. A particularly nasty problem was the eutrophication of the lakes. Too much organic matter began to grow, thus preventing Tufa formation. Since then a consistent effort has been made at environmental remediation including the removal of organic matter and advanced water treatment. Unfortunately, due to the sheer number of visitors you can no longer swim in the lakes. The money collected from your visit goes into maintaining the park for future generations (Although I would argue that it is a little overpriced, it was 34 euros last I checked!).
The Falls
When you arrive at the site, there are two main parking lots. One is at the back of the park, where the highest waterfall is located and the second midway through. The first of these is the main entrance to the park. From there, the waterfalls and lakes are linked by a winding series of nature pathways. These will take you around the full perimeter of the lakes, including an additional option to visit the upper lake system. The park area includes a total of sixteen (16) lakes and totals approximately 300 km2. The trail length ranges from 3.5km to 18km (from 3-8 hours), so bring a good pair of shoes and a water-bottle. For most people I recommend Trail C, it includes both the upper and lower lakes but it is much shorter than the 18km Trail K.
At first, your visit starts above the water system, in the hills. You will look down on a large waterfall and most of the lower lake system. You will then proceed towards the second entrance, where oddly enough, you will see what appears to be a bear petting zoo. There is a small shuttle bus that you can take here but I decided to walk instead.
Your visit to the Upper Lakes will include views of the uppermost lake Prošćansko Jezero, a crystalline reservoir populated by clear water and a pathway that seems almost to glides above it. You will then cross over to Lake Gradovak, a calm body of water with beautifully coloured waters.
The next area is called Milino Jezero. This time the pathways twists and winds its way its way through a lagoon-like area that includes several small bodies of water. It offers a wonderful glimpse of the Plitvice vegetation as well as some impressive falls (of course!). These offer a refreshing, mist like, spay and the crisp beautiful sound of falling water is enough to make one feel very relaxed. This early section of boardwalk is much less crowded than the later sections.
The next lake is Gradinsko Jezero. The waters are calm and the area before Lake Kojak will offer a similar experience to Miliano. This area leads to Lake Kozjak, located opposite to the second park entrance. Although a long lake, you don’t have to walk it. This is where a cross lake ferry begins (don’t worry admission is included with your ticket). From the pier a boat will pick you up and take you to the other side of the lake. Click though the following slideshow to see just how clear the lake water is.
The area after Lake Kozjak is referred to as the Lower Lakes. Although narrower and smaller in size, they offer some of the most interesting waterfalls. Instead of the typical high-drop waterfalls seen previously, many of the lower lakes are fed by large volumes of water rushing over moss covered rocks and spreading in every direction for a gradual decline into the next lake. The pathways will take you over these mossy rock areas and offers amazing photo opportunities. The water is clean and is a great place to fill up your water bottle.
The Lower Lakes are smaller and skinnier than their Upper counterparts and when there are falls they tend to be shorter yet spaced closely together
You can also gain access to a small cave shortly after the Lake Milanovac part of the trail. This area gives a great view of the small moss covered falls below.
The visit to the park concludes with a truly magnificent sight… a seventy-eight (78) meter cliff face with a waterfall that crashes down into the rocks below. A narrow path will bring you to the base of the falls where you can feel the refreshing mist hit you. Unfortunately this path is very crowded and you may have to push your way to the front.
Conclusion
Although there are several other national parks in the Balkans region that can provide you with magnificent views of Karst waterfalls, only one can provide you with the awe inducing spectacle that Plitvice puts on display. It may be overcrowded but after visiting I can appreciate why!
