Penetang, Midland and Port McNicoll – A Visit to the Land of the Hurons
This trio of port cities at the tip of a large paw shaped peninsula jutting out into the Georgian Bay are filled with history. From the Huron occupation to its settler past, this region is rich in both history and natural beauty.
Table of Contents
Port McNicoll
Although there is little left of this once great shipping port, Port McNicoll (named for railway executive David McNicoll) still keeps a few mementos of its past close to heart. Once of those is the S.S. Keewatin, docked right in town! The community was established in 1908 when it became the home port of the Canadian Pacific Railway‘s Great Lakes Service, when it relocated from Owen Sound at the Base of the Bruce Peninsula. This was the eastern terminus of CP’s marine operations connecting to its Ontario and Quebec rail operations.
On the old waterfront one will find the Keewatin, the flagship passenger steamship connecting Toronto via either the Great Lakes (via Midland) or through Oro-Medonte (via Lake Simcoe-Orillia). Constructed in 1907, it began operation from Port McNicoll in 1912. The coal fired vessel operated until 1965 when unfortunately it ceased passenger service before being reduced to freight-only service and finally withdrawn from service in 1966. Luckily it still exist here at Port McNicoll.
The Keewatin is the last Edwardian steamship left in the world and is a joy to visit! Come on up onboard for a meal and some exploration.
Midland
Sainte Marie Among the Hurons, Martyrs Shrine and the Wye Marsh
On your way into Midland you will come across a narrow body of water connecting the Georgian Bay to Mud Lake. This small river is home to one of the regions most popular trio of attractions, the Martyrs Shrine, Saint Marie Among the Hurons (Sainte-Marie-au-pays-des-Hurons) and the Wye Marsh. At the parking lot you will find the entrance to the Wye Marsh, allowing access to Mud Lake via a boarwalk.
The main attraction of course is the French Jesuit settlement in Wendake, Sainte-Marie-au-pays-des-Hurons. This was the land of the Wendat (Huron), partners of the French in this region. Sainte-Marie-au-pays-des-Hurons was occupied from 1639 to 1649 and was the first European settlement in what is now the province of Ontario (Upper Canada). It was founded by fathers Jérôme Lalemant and Jean de Brébeuf. Inside the recreated village you will get to see what this settlement life was like, a living museum of sorts. The village itself is surrounded by a wooden palisade and was the Jesuit headquarters in Huronia before its downfall. Inside you will find the town chapel, homes and vegetable gardens. In the winter, around Christmas, an event called first light takes place where the structure is beautifully light by candle.
A pathway to the Martyrs Shrine leads from around the village too a pathway under the roadway and cross the mud river.
From this pathway you will have a fantastic view of the village from the river, including its district chapel!
Looking in the opposite direction you will see the church commemorating the Martyrs but more on that in just a moment.
The Martyrs’ Shrine is a church opened in 1926, commemorating the downfall of the village and French Huron. The village became pressed by the ironic during its last years. The Iroquois were pressing the Huron, who were in a weakened state. France responded by sending an additional six soldiers, a measly amount by any stretch but it was no match for the Iroquois, who gained firearms from their Dutch allies. During the Huron-Iroquois War, eight missionaries from Sainte-Marie were martyred; St. Jean de Brébeuf (1649), St. Noël Chabanel (1649), St. Antoine Daniel (1648), St. Charles Garnier (1649), St. René Goupil (1642), St. Isaac Jogues (1646), St. Jean de Lalande (1646), and St. Gabriel Lalemant (1649).
On June 16, 1649 with the Iroquois approaching, the missionaries chose to burn their own mission to stop its capture. It lay dormant until archaeological work was conducted in the mid 19th century up until the present. In . In 1954 the graves of Brébeuf and Lalemant were discovered. The stone church is were the Martyrs were canonized by the Catholic Pope Pius XI in 1930. The site was later visited by John Paul II and is well worth the visit if you have the time.
To learn more about Saint Marie Among the Hurons (Sainte-Marie-au-pays-des-Hurons) and its fantastic winter festival, First Light click here.
Port of Midland
The second of the three ports has the more impressive main street o f the three. Another railway port it was established in 1871 with the construction of the Midland Railway, transforming the town into a hub of light industrial activity.
However the real charm of the city lies at the waterfront. At the end of the marina you will find the old grain elevator, now painted with a mural to spice things up.
You will also find a marina with harbour tours and ferries to the nearby islands. You will also find statues and a decent bar with a patio looking out at the water.
Huronia Museum and Huron Ouendat Village
This perfect replica of a Huron village is located right outside the downtown. The museum includes a long hut and a wood walled palisade and is worth seeing if you have the time.
Penetanguishene
For the purposes of this article Penetanguishene will be shortened to Penetang. This is the third and final port in the series.
St. James on-the-Lines
Driving into town you will notice a large cemetery with a small, yet elegant Anglican church. St James on-the-Lines was the church of the British Garrison of Penetang, the church being built close to the military camp that lined the old military/comunication road to the south. The church is surrounded by a large green grassed cemetery that is worth walking through.
The white painted building dates from 1836 when it was commission by Colonel James Keating, commander of the Army and Captain John Moberly RN, the commander of the Penetanguishene Naval Yard. If you are interested you can find their graves in the cemetery along with the first rector, Rev, George Hallen. It was the only Anglican church in the area for its first 50 years and proudly served the English garrison!
Port of Penatang
The tiny town of Penatang is rather small, yet attractive. Attraction in town include the Penetanguishene Centennial Museum, Champlain Statue on the water front park and a rather attractive main street with classic establishments such as Captain Flyyns Irish Pub! It also has a few places of the faithful including the masonry church of the Anglican Parish of Penetanguishene and the stone built Saint Ann Roman Catholic Church overlooking the city. The church was built bt Theophile Francis Laboureau in 1886 to serve the extensive french (and other catholic communities) and was referred to as the “Cathedral of the North”. In many ways Penetang is the place to be!
The name Penetanguishene is believed to mean “land of the white rolling sands” in many of the First Nations languages. It was settled by the Hurons in 800 AD. The area was first visited by Europeans when the young French translator, Étienne Brûlé set foot in this part of Ontario some time between 1610 and 1614. But it was not until 1793, that English Canada would take interest in the land until John Graves Simcoe (the first Lieutenant Governor of Upper Canada), visited Penatang and taught it would be a good place to plunk a naval base to protect British Interests in the Upper Great Lakes. This followed with the construction of the Penetanguishene Road in 1814 connecting the city to Barrie and continuing towards Toronto. Previously Penetang was only accessible via water. Thus in 1817 unites moored near Wasaga Beach were consolidated at the Penetanguishene Naval Yard.
The towns itself was composed of French fur traders that moved here after the War of 1812, French Families from Quebec after cheap land and an English population was formed as some of the troops garrisoned here setted in town after the completion of their military service. The base operated until 1856 and English civilians would begin to settle here after the logging industry opened up, thus one could say that Penetang is a true bilingual town.
From the harbour, one will get great view of this city and the stunning Saint Ann Roman Catholic Church looming above it!
Also this boat called “Trophy Wife gave me a laugh!
Discovery Harbour
The pride and joy of Penatang is surely the recreation of its old military base called Discovery Harbour.
Historic placcards around the site tell the history of the Naval Base established by Simcoe, as explained earlier in the Port of Penetang section.
Today the base is home to two replica sailing ships from the War of 1812 period, the HMS Bee and HMS Tecumseth. The wharf is home to a popular amphitheatre hosting plays and musicals during the summer. I had no clue this place existed and I was rather impressed!
Intrestingly enough in one of the reconstructed building you will find the hill of the original HMS Tecumseth. The ship remnants were raised from the lake bed in 1953 and put on display!
Penetanguishene Asylum for the Insane and Cemetary (Waypoint Mental Health Center)
Up the hill from discovery harbour, lies a maximum security prisons and what little is left of the old insane asylum. Following church street you will find many abandoned wood built structures.
And this beauty of a place, probably belonging to a high ranking official.
The Asylum itself opened in 1904, on the grounds of the former Reformatory for Boys School (1850). The main building can be found near the old cemetery, known simply as the Administration Building of the Waypoint Mental Health Center. Speaking of which you can find more info about the institution here.
The cemetery for the inmates its a simple one. In this little patch of grass you will find simple tombstones indicating the location of the dead.
You will also find a small memorial to the dead.
Conclusion
After you have completed a tour of the towns make sure to stop off at some local bar along the water for a bucket of Coronas. Summers on the Georgian Bay tend to be spectacular, especially this far removed from the crowds.
