Newport, Jamestown and Narragansett – Rhode Island’s Coastal Wonderland
The following map will give you an overview of the places covered in this entry and their locations. I started from Providence, RI and worked my way south to the port cities of Narragansett, Jamestown and Newport. This area, home to the Narragansett Bay and the Mouth of the Providence river is a coastal delight filled with islands and historic places.
Table of Contents
From Providence to Newport:
We left for the craggy Rhode Island coastline via interstate I95 after our stay in the state capital of Providence. Don’t stay on this track of Highway for too long though or you will be heading for Connecticut, the exit is easy to miss, I know this from experience. The first leg of the drive, from Providence to Narraganset is not the most interesting. This part of Rhode Island is sparsely populated but the trees are colourful in the fall and if you come at the right time of year, you may be pleasantly surprised.
Narragansett:
Often referred to as “Gansett” by locals, this stunning beach town has a popular Rhode Island beer named after it. It was my first stop of the day and my first look at the Atlantic coastline. Narragansett is a small town of 15 000 people but that number swells to double that number in the summer. The town is known for its distinctive beaches as well as the remnants of the casino pier. Although the pier, once a favorite of the Rhode Island elite, burned down in September 1900, its distinctive castle like archway named the towers still stands.
Newport:
From Gansett we headed over both the Jamestown and Newport bridges. From these massive steel cabled behemoths you can see for miles and miles. The view, once of the Atlantic and the surrounding islands will stun you. You will also be able to trace the outline of the Narragansett bay. This large naval passage serves as the mouth of the Providence river. From the bridges you will also see historic lighthouses, tankers, and an army of pleasure craft enjoying the stretch of coastline. When we arrived in Newport, we pulled into the parking lot at the tourist center, an essential stopping point in the town. It is here that you can purchase tickets for tours of the famous Newport Gilded Age mansions. Parking is free for an hour so feel free to grab some pamphlets and chat with the workers at the information desk. They will be glad to help.
A Brief History:
Newport is a city with a present-day population of 25 000. Although small by today’s standards, it was once one of the most successful colony town. At different times the city served as a center for the slave trade, a haven for pirates, a sailing paradise and a playground for the richest in America. Viewed from this perspective and considering its small stature, one could say that the city has had an oversized influence on American History.
The Colonial Era:
The town was founded in 1639 and quickly became the largest city in the Providence Plantation Colony. In 1663 the city gained its royal charter and Benedict Arnold became the first governor of the colony. The old colony house became the seat of the Rhode Island government until the state house in Providence was completed in 1904. In 1723 Edward Low, a pirate known for his brutality was hung here. His hanging is the origin for many Newport ghost stories if you choose to take a haunted walk.
In the 18th century the city became a refuge for Portuguese Jews (Jews from the Iberian peninsula are referred to as Sephardi Jews). Due to the influence of Roger Williams, the founder of Rhode Island and Providence Plantations, the state of had a policy of freedom of religious association. As such Newport became an attractive destination for Sephardi Jews who had to practice their religion in secret back home in Portugal and Spain. For more information on Roger Williams see my post on Providence here. Adept at trading they brought their business acumen with them and began the sperm oil trade (the oil from sperm whales, get your head out of the gutter!). It led to the first bursts of wealth in the city, as Newport enjoyed a practical monopoly on the trade.
Like Providence, Newport was a major player in the Triangle Trade. In this system slaves were bought from West Africa with Rum, they were then shipped to the Caribbean and traded for sugar and molasses. The sugar and molasses where then shipped to places like Rhode Island, where more rum was produced in distilleries and shipped out to buy more slaves. Hence the term “triangle trade” because if you were trace the ship movements on a map they would make a triangle shape. Twenty-two (22) of the thirty (30) Rhode Island distilleries were located in Newport. Ironically Newport was also one of the centers most active in the fight against slavery, Samuel Hopkins is often credited as the first abolitionist in America and the presence of Quakers, with their moral stand against the practice helped fight the evils of this practice.
The American Revolution:
The American Revolution put an end to Newport’s preeminence among American cities, the settlement was devastated and the population of the city fell to 4000 by the end of the war. At first Loyalist citizens were expelled by the Patriot army, then the British took back the city, holding it for three years. During this time Patriots were Banished. The Americans fought back but could not retake the city. The British eventually abandoned Newport to concentrate their troops in New York city. The French saw he opportunity and landed here. The Americans aided by the famous Compte de Rochambeau, began their famous drive towards Yorktown. With the armies gone Newport was left to pick up the pieces. Many of the houses lying in ruin and most of the old merchant class moved to either Providence or Boston.
The Gilded Age:
Newport returned to fame in the mid 19th century when the southern plantation owners and some wealthy Yankees descended upon it, attempting to escape the summer heat. In the 20th century uber-wealthy families such as the Vanderbilt’s and Astor’s would change the character of the city by building magnificent mansions. The Vanderbilts, were famous for their dealings in the railway and shipping industries while the Astors delt in fur trading. If you are English reading this blog, the Astor’s eventually moved to England and achieved some degree of fame there (see Nancy Astor). These mansions served an important social function, they held lavish parties where the rich could compete with each other.
For more information the famous novel “The Age of Innocence” describes the social scene in the city at that time.
The 20th century:
The 20th century was unkind to the city. In 1893, a deep depression unsettled the nation leading into the new century. In 1897 the Bradley-Martin Ball held at the Waldorf Hotel in New York was so extravagant that it led to the creation of an unfair consumption tax on rich Americans like the Astor’s. People hurting from the recession became outraged at the careless spending, ironic as it was billed by the holders as a way to stimulate the New York economy. It took time, but after the creation of these taxes many mansions lost their purpose as extravagant events were no longer held as often, owners could ill afford the tax bill. Changes in architectural styles led to the loss of many of these beauties, as architects (never trust the taste of architect) decried their faux chateau imitation style. The city also lost its place as a historic home for the Atlantic fleet. Many jobs were axed and things were looking down. In the 1960’s the Newport preservation society restored the grand homes and the downtown began a rapid period of revitalization. Today the area is quite wealthy.
What To Do In Newport?
Town of Newport
If you are a tennis fanatic, you need to stop off at the Tennis Hall of Fame, located in the old Newport Casino. The old resort, with a long history of holding tennis matches on its property, was struggling financially in the 50’s and in danger of being torn down. The transformation of the property into a museum and the hosting of tennis matches allowed the building to be saved. I’m not very knowledgeable about the game of tennis so I made my way to Cardines field the home of the Newport Gulls baseball team instead. This collegiate team is very popular and has led to the restoration of the old wooden bandstands. If you are looking for a drink before the game, or just in general, the oldest bar in town is right down the street. Called the White Horse, it was built in 1678 and is still serving customers to this day.
For those more interested in the history of the city, take the time to walk along the historic piers, visit the colony house and stop off at the old Trinity Church. For those curious about Jewish history, Newport has the oldest surviving synagogue in North America. If you can make it outside of the city, Fort Adams is worth the visit. Founded in 1799 it was constructed as part of the United States coastal defence system. Today it also hosts guided tours and haunted walks. While you are already outside of the city you may as well rent a car and drive the Ocean Drive. This scenic 10-mile drive along the shoreline features beaches, historic homes, Fort Adams (mentioned above) & a yacht museum. One of the properties to check out is Jay Leno’s house, with its manicured lawn and its position overlooking the sea. As for the yacht museum Newport also has the distinction of having hosted every challenge to the America’s cup from 1934-1983 and as such has a rich history.
Historic Mansions of Newport:
Newport is known for the large number of these gilded age beauties. I would recommend that you take the famous cliff walk. This 3.5 mile trail runs behind many of them and gives you a view of the jagged coastline. If you feel like dipping your toes in the cold ocean water make your way to the forty step staircase that leads down to the water. Beware, touring the mansions will take more than a day’s worth of your time. Come prepared knowing what you want to see and rise early to beat the crowds. The mansions are visited with the help of a audio guide. Remember if you buy a package from the tourist center you can use your tickets on multiple days allowing you to spread your time out accordingly. Most of the mansions are clustered along Bellevue Avenue, but seeing the one you want may require you to do quite a bit of walking or taking a shuttle bus or car.
Chateau-sur-Mer
One of the oldest mansions on Bellevue, it was constructed in 1852. It was one of the premiere hosting place of many parties until the Vanderbilt’s completed the Breakers. It is distinctly different than many of the other homes as it is one of the few houses planned as a year-long residence.
The Elms
Completed in 1901, it was a latecomer to the Newport scene. It was built by Mr. Berwind a coal baron from New York city. It is perhaps the most underrated of all the buildings and I wish I would have taken more pictures to show how interesting this property truly is. One of my favorite rooms in the house is the conservatory, built in French style and filled with detailed marble artifacts, it is absolutely stunning. Although the house was coal powered the chutes are hidden by a passage underground so that the transfer could not be seen by the house-guests. It was the owner’s policy that servants should not be seen or heard as such the kitchen was multi storied and passages allowed the servants to travel though the house, live and not be seen. The house was occupied by descendants of the family until 1961, when it was transferred to the Newport Preservation Trust. It is said that the old lady of the house rode around town in fancy cars unaccompanied, something that was uncommon for her social class at the time.
Ocre Court
I don’t know much about this house, I came across it while on the cliff walk. At one point it was the second largest house in Newport after the Breakers. It is now part of the Salve Regina University along with many other old houses nearby.
Rosecliffe
Built in 1902 by Theresa Fair Oelrichs, a silver heiress. This mansion was one of the big Newport party houses. It sports an elegant exterior with well maintained gardens and an ornate interior. In 1941 the property was bought by a family from New Orleans. They threw much less formal (aka Uptight), parties than the previous owners. These Mardi Gras themed parties where well received. In 1971 they donated the estate to the Newport Trust with an endowment of 2 million dollars for upkeep.
Marble House
Completed in 1892, this Bellevue property was designed as a summer cottage for William Vanderbilt and Alva Smith a prominent millionaire and socialite. The name Marble House is an obvious one as the structure, with its striking column facade, is made of marble. The marriage did not last, but Alva continued to live here until 1919.
The Breakers
Finally, we come to the most famous of all the mansions, the residence of Cornelius Vanderbilt II. The seventy (70) room building was completed in 1895. It is the largest of the mansion properties in Newport as well as the most luxurious. Unlike the property in Ashville, this house is completed and entirely furnished. The property offers sweeping views of the Atlantic Ocean from its top floor. It may very well be the most impressive property I’ve ever seen in America.
You enter the property via an ornate cast iron gate, via a pathway with large shrubs lining all sides. When you enter you are in the Great Hall. This chandelier-lit room has a staircase that the Vanderbilt’s slid down as kids. Check behind the staircase for a cool sitting area and fountain hidden away in a corner.
One thing that struck me about the property was that there were platinum panels in the house and much gold used in decoration. Money was no object to these people. Rooms that were particularly interesting to me were the library, the music room and the billiards room.
Jamestown
Before heading back to Providence, we crossed back over the Newport bridge and stopped in at the lighthouse in Jamestown (this historic town of 5000 people is not to be confused with the infamous Jamestown of Virginia). Built in 1856, this impressive structure is named the Beavertail Lighthouse and is built on the site of earlier lighthouses, the foundation of which you can still see when you walk around the property. The building contains a small museum detailing this history of Rhodes Island’s lighthouses, many of which can be seen in the distance.
Conclusion:
Come to Rhode Island and enjoy the coastline while the sun is shinning. This historic piece of New England is worth the trouble. From historic towns, to great beaches and grand mansions this tiny state has it all.
