New Orleans – The Cajun Queen

Baby, please don’t go
Baby, please don’t go
Baby, please don’t go down to New Orleans
You know I love you so, baby, please don’t go

Traditional blues song

The Crescent City:

When Van Morrison covered this Joe William classic, little did he know that it would become the definitive version of the song. The city suited the Irishman’s rugged interpretation, the raspy voice of sin and debauchery.

Between the Gulf and the Pontchartrain in the drivin’ rain, where the shrimp fishermen catch their hearts delight, lies a city old and venerable, that of New Orleans. It is there that my heart rests. Although New Orleans has a sordid reputation, the Crescent City, named after the bend in the Mississippi it follows is an urban center worth visiting. It truly lives up to its moniker the Big Easy.

Arrival:

Sitting at the airport bar in Philadelphia I had the worst Bloody Mary I have ever tried. It didn’t matter, it wouldn’t be long before my flight to New Orleans, a prospect I had hoped for ever since I had to postpone my first attempt at visiting the city the year before.

After landing in New Orleans we made our way to the taxi stand and hopped into a taxi in the direction of my hotel on Decatur street in the French Quarter. The airport is located far outside of town and there is little public transportation available other than an infrequent bus service. Taxis operating from the airport are fixed rate depending on what neighbourhood you are going to so there is no need to negotiate.

A Brief History:

Named after the regent of France the Duke of Orleans, New Orleans was settled in 1718 by a crazy Frenchman called Jean-Baptiste Le Moyne de Bienville. Hard to believe in this post-Katrina era, but the French chose this site to found the city due to it being on relatively high ground. Built on a curve of the Mississippi for flood protection the city was seen as an ideal stopping point between the Mississippi river trade, lake Pontchartrain and the Gulf of Mexico via Bayou St. John.

The city quickly grew to replace Biloxi as the capital of French Louisiana and the so-called “French Quarter” grid was established during this period. In 1763 the Seven Year’s War came to an end; the French were defeated by the British and the Treaty of Paris was signed. Before this happened the French gave possession of Louisiana to their allies, the Spanish, in secret. The French in the city rebelled hoping that the colony would be restored to French rule. Out of options the new governor had to put the ringleaders to the sword.

During the Spanish occupation the mostly wooden city built by the French burned down. The city was rebuilt in brick with a distinct architectural flair, that of the famous wrought Iron balconies, that can still be found in the French Quarter today. The famous St. Louis Cathedral in Jackson Square was built during this period. In 1800 the Spanish returned the city to the French only to have Napoleon hand it over in 1803 to the Americans as part of the Louisiana Purchase.

The War of 1812 would bring to the forefront two of the city’s most interesting characters: The first is Andrew Jackson, the general in charge of the city’s defence and a future president of the United States. The second is Jean Lafitte, a charismatic Frenchmen at times a pirate and a smuggler who would become the unlikely hero of the battle when the United States recruited him to defend the city.

The Battle of New Orleans took place in 1815. It was the last battle of the war and was fought in the Chalmette battlefield east of the city. The British heavily outnumbered the Americans but were miraculously repulsed by the combined Lafitte-Jackson forces. The British commander, a veteran of the Napoleonic wars, the brave and competent Edward Pakenham died in battle.

The Antebellum period, or the period preceding the Civil War, was kind to the city. It grew quickly becoming the third largest city in the United States, benefiting greatly from the slave trade (it had the largest slave market in the world) and the Mississippi river trade. Anglophones migrated in great numbers and the city outgrew the French Quarter, the new Americans settled in the Garden district. The city managed to retain its French culture (until the start of the Civil War that is), in part due to the arrival of many exiled Frenchmen escaping the bloody revolutions of the Enlightenment shaking the old world. One of these famous newcomers was Prince Achille Murat, a relative of Napoleon Bonaparte. In 1825 the aging Marquis de Lafayette, a friend of Thomas Jefferson’s and the French hero of the American revolution visited the city to much adulation from the local population. The event that cemented one thing, Louisiana could be one part French and the other fully American, an idealistic vision that would soon be shattered by one of the most devastating conflicts in American history.

The American Civil War was the single most devastating event to happen to the city. New Orleans was captured early on and was under strict martial law by the despised Union general, Benjamin Butler. The xenophobic Northerners had always mistrusted the French elite, they used the war as an an opportunity to shutter all French newspapers as well as the schools in order to eradicate French culture. This would spell the end of the Creole elite’s dominance in the city and the destruction of a culture, one instrumental in shaping the fate of America during the Revolutionary War, an absolute disgrace. Although I generally agree with Lincoln’s ideals, the way northern generals such as Butler carried themselves in the South betrayed their rabid anti-Southern sentiment. For those interested, it should be noted that Lincoln did not like Butler and that Ulysses S. Grant found him to be a poor quality military commander.

Reconstruction was a difficult period in the city’s history. Race relations were poor and white supremacist fought changes tooth and nail. Jim Crow laws were implemented and were fought against by the educated French free persons of color . With the collapse of Creole society they had lost their place of privilege and were treated like other blacks in the south. This was obviously not acceptable, when you have tasted freedom there is no going back. World War One precipitated the closure the greatest red-light districts of the world, Storyville. The federal government was worried about soldiers stationed in the city being distracted by both gambling and prostitution, closed down the district against the will of the residents. With the closure of the district, the vices of Storyville moved to other parts of the New Orleans that they had not previously been part of, including the French Quarter. This act was the final nail in the coffin for the French Creoles still living in the French Quarter, the remaining residents moved uptown and the area became a slum.

During the era between two wars, the city became the leading center for jazz in the nation but for many African Americans this was not a great time. The best and brightest left the south in direction of northern cities, first for St-Louis and then Chicago, in an event called the Great Migration. In these cities the Delta Blacks created electric blues from the old Mississippi variation. New Orleans was a fading star, never to regain its fabled place in American history.

In the modern era New Orleans is making a tepid recovery. The French Quarter, once a slum, is the beating heart of the city once again but poverty remains endemic here. In 2004, Katrina devastated the city, causing massive damage and loss of population. The city has since recovered although significantly progress is still needed. The people here are resilient and will continue to endure. After all, New Orleans has seen much worse times!

Culture:

New Orleans has an eclectic mix of cultures mainly due to its history of occupation by several nations, as well as its geography (it is the closest port to the Caribbean). The culture is distinctly American but much less uptight than other parts of the protestant south, as the Cajun New Orleaner’s slogan of “Laissez les bons temps rouler” or “Let the good times roll” would suggest. The people of New Orleans are extremely friendly and will feel comfortable striking up a conversation with you on the street with their trademark accent. The main cultures that shaped the city are Creole, Cajun, Latin, Caribbean as well as Irish and German but I’m sure that i am missing a few.

Creole or Cajun:

For those of you less familiar with Louisiana and its complex history Creole is the name given to the old stock, colonial era, Louisianan French. These people can either be white, black or mixed race, whereas Cajun is a designation meant for the descendants of the exiled Acadians, deported from Canada by the British for refusing their oath to the King. Both groups are French but the Cajuns & Creoles have a unique dialect. There exists differences in cooking styles and both groups have their own musical traditions. After the closing of the French schools by the Union army the use of the french language decreased severely and is hardly used in daily life today. Creole people can be found throughout the Caribbean but designation of what constitutes a “Creole” changes depending on the country. The Creoles are usually associated with the Urbain elite society whereas the Cajuns are associated with the rural bayous. 

Slavery:

Although the French were kinder slave masters than some of their protestant neighbors, they were in no way saintly. During the period of French and Spanish rule slave rebellions did occur due to the ill treatment of those subject to the practice. That being said, there are large differences in the slavery tradition in the 13 colonies than in Louisiana. The Code Noir, a code of laws governing the slave trade in French territories, ensured a more humanitarian approach to the practice. This was in part driven by religious morality, pushed by the Catholic Church. It is this code that allowed African slaves to gather on Sundays and Congo Square, the location where Jazz music was invented. The Catholics also ensured that the slaves attended mass and had a religious education. Slaves were allowed to marry with their owner’s consent and there were provisions for slaves to gain their freedom. This code did not prevent corporal punishment but did instill limits. Unfortunately this code was not followed in many parts of the french colonial empire but conditions were better in New Orleans than nearby Haiti.

Although the Code Noir strictly forbade sexual relations that were interracial in nature, New Orleans society saw things differently. A system was developed called “Placage” where Europeans would meet Non-Europeans at balls. There if they matched they could enter a union that was much like a contract. The woman would get a house paid for and the children would be taken care of. If the woman was a slave the “mulatto” (mixed race) children would be born free. The European man was still free to take a wife.

The Louisiana system gave mulattoes and freed blacks a certain position in society. They could own properties and businesses so it should come to no surprise that there was a dark side to this, some freed blacks owned slaves and participated in the trade.

To summarize the consequence of this system was that a new caste was created, these Free People of Colour were more numerous in Louisiana than any other state. They were well educated and had a certain amount of dignity and respect. This all changed after the American occupation of the city, the new owners saw things differently and many of these policies were reversed. Mulattoes and the Free People of colour lost their position in society and were treated poorly like any other Africans in the south.

Tarot, Voodoo & Caribbean Culture:

New Orleans is sometimes described as having either a Caribbean vibe or culture to it. This may be due to the proximity of the city to the Gulf of Mexico as well as its long ties to the islands. A traditional New Orleans spirit like the Sazerac owes its existence to bitters created by Antoine Amédée Peychaud on the island of San Domingue, later renamed to Haiti after gaining independence. Many classic New Orleans dishes, like Jambalaya also have Caribbean ties due to the widespread use of Caribbean spices in Louisiana cooking. The drum music that is essential to voodoo and Latin music originates from nearby Cuba, a Spanish colony at the time.

New Orleans Voodoo is a combination of Catholicism and African animism most often associated with Haiti. Although similar, it is important to remember that New Orleans voodoo is a distinct practice to its Caribbean counterpart. The Voodoo tradition originates from Benin in French Africa before coming to the “New World” on slave ships. In New Orleans the practice was established by the legendary Dr. John Montanee. In Haiti, the religion had a strong influence on the country’s revolution, this made colonial governors of New Orleans wary of the practice. As much as the administrators struggled to suppress the practice, it was a lost cause as the slave population outnumbered the Free Folk. The city was a breeding ground for the practice in large part due to the French aristocracy’s peculiar attitude towards slavery (rights of assembly, placage, freed blacks…). The language of instruction was Creole French, a language spoken by the educated class of freed blacks that lived in the city. The “Queen of Voodoo”, Marie Laveau is a product of this mixing of cultures, a Free Woman of Colour and a woman who was “placé” with a white man, she became a confidante to the wealthy and powerful of New Orleans through her salon. Voodoo queens, usually Free People of Colour due to their education, status and wealth were respected members of the community and served as spiritual community elders. As a Voodoo Queen, Marie’s influence was powerful beyond imagination. On St. John’s Eve in 1874 she held a Voodoo ritual on the shore of the Pontchartrain for 12 000 followers. By day Marie was a devout Catholic but rumors swirled that later in the evening she served both black and white community for more occult purposes. Her daughter continued the tradition.

Tarot cards are a European import that has origins in Eastern mysticism. They arrived in Europe either though the Ottoman controlled Balkans region or though trade with Mamluk Egypt. They are a large part of the New Orleans culture and have wound their way into occult and voodoo traditions through the mixing pot of cultures that is New Orleans. Today many readers will offer you their services, including vendors by the St-Louis cathedral. Try your hand at a reading if you dare…

Festivals:

Mardi Gras

New Orleans has so many festivals I won’t even try to list them all. The most important one is Carnival, Mardi Gras or “Fat Tuesday” is the last day of this celebration before Lent starts. During carnival many floats belonging to various groups can be observed parading through the streets. The atmosphere is one of party so be ready for a great time out.

Cajun Queen

For those wondering what a Cajun Queen is, it is a term of endearment for a man that dresses as a woman during Mardi Gras. Usually the manner of dress is exaggerated and accentuates the female form.

New Orleans Jazz Festival

The annual heritage and Jazz festival takes place the last weekend of April and the first weekend of May. Started in the 70’s this is one of the landmark music festivals in North America.

Jazz Funeral

A particular New Orleans tradition is the Jazz funeral. Portrayed in many films, such as the classic Bond film Live and Let Die, this celebration of life combines both European and African cultural elements with a strong military brass tradition from the city’s colonial past. In some cultures it is thought that the sound of music would soothe the spirits protecting the dead. Many prominent New Orleans musicians have received this treatment after their passing as well as a few non-musical personalities.

Duels:

A European import, duels were commonplace in the French community. These took place at the duelling oak trees, one of which can still be found. Duels were a matter of honour and were often fought over the love of a woman. Often after an evening ball, a man would be vexed at the loss of a dance partner and slap another with a glove to signal a challenge. Many important New Orleans citizens participated in the practice including Emile LaSere and Bernard de Marigny. The goal of the duel was to draw blood but not to kill, but often death was a result of this practice. Duels were shunned by the New Americans, who were not accepted into the old Creole society. The Americans isolated themselves in the newly built Garden District. Still, the occasional American would participate in the duels. Unsuited for this foreign style of combat many perished. The hated American Governor Claiborne’s secretary was killed in one of these duels. Duels were banned in 1890, a victim of the creeping Americanization of the city.

Culinary Tradition:

New Orleans has two staples when it comes to cooking, one is Cajun and the other Creole. Much of the food is similar but prepared differently, for example Cajun is viewed as country food and Creole as city food. A major difference is that Creole cooking includes tomatoes and Cajun does not.

Crawfish

If you love seafood these lobster-like creatures are a must! Boiled or deep-fried, Louisiana’s big seafood export will blow you away.

Po’ Boy

The classic sandwich of Louisiana consists of either roast bread and gravy or deep fried seafood on a french baguette. If that’s not your cup of tea there are plenty of places offering other varieties of Po’Boy.

Gator

C’mon you know you want to try it. Deep fried it tastes like chicken only chewier.

Jambalaya

With origins from West Africa, France and Spain this dish really is the best of many worlds. The dish usually includes smoked sausage, rice, shrimp, celery, onion, peppers and spices.

Gumbo

This is a dish that deserves its praise. It is a traditional Creole stew like mixture that contains shrimp or other shellfish, onions, bell peppers and celery. There is also a Cajun version of this dish but it is not common in New Orleans.

New Orleans Shrimp

This Cajun delight is cooked in butter, spices and garlic. 

Oysters Rockefeller & Bienville

In a town full of great seafood take the time to try these timeless classics – both created in New Orleans. Oyster Rockefeller, oysters topped with butter, parley, bread crumbs and herbs was created at Antoine’s. Created at another New Orleans restaurant with an “A”, Arnaud’s, Oysters Bienville are topped with shrimp, bread crumbs, mushrooms, peppers, butter, parmesan, roux and sherry. It is named after the founder of the city.

King Cake:

This festive New Orleans desert is only available during carnival. The round pastry is covered with icing topped with purple, yellow and green sprinkles. In the cake there is a plastic Baby Jesus figure. If you are the one to find him he will bring you luck!

Soul Food

Deep fried southern food is always appreciated. Indulge in this deep-fried goodness whether it be Chicken or Hush Puppies.

Muffuletta

This New Orleans deli sandwich was created by the large wave of Italian immigrants that took over the French Quarter after the Creoles had  departed. The bread is of Sicilian origin and the sandwich includes olives, salami, ham, Swiss cheese, provolone, and mortadella.

Red Beans and Rice

A staple of Creole cooking, this dish is exactly as it sounds. Red beans are cooked with onions, cayenne, leftover meats and an assortment of ingredients and served over a side of rice.

Junk Food:

Got the munchies? Go out and get some American junk food that has been adapted to Louisiana tastes. Whether it is the always fashionable daiquiris and pizza that dot the street corners to the eclectic flavor of potato chips.

Music (aka… Go to Frenchman not Bourbon):

Filled with colorful personalities, the city has always drawn a bohemian crowd to its action filled streets. As such it should be no surprise that the city has hosted so many important names in American popular culture.

In slave trading days, Congo Square, located in  Louis Armstrong Park in Tremé, was the only place in the southern states that allowed slaves to congregate and play music. This was due to the French catholic tradition of allowing a day of rest on Sunday. It is in this square that jazz, the indigenous music of New Orleans, was created, combining European, African and Latin influences.

Knowing this, it should be no surprise that some of the biggest names of music originate from the city. The most prominent is Louis Armstrong (What A Wonderful World) but others such as Dr. John (Right Place, Wrong Time, Such a Time), Fats Domino (Blueberry Hill, Ain’t That a Shame), Ernie K-Doe (Mother-In-Law), Lee Dorsey (Working in the Coal Mine) and James Booker have left their mark on the music scene. Booker in particular was a character. Black, gay and sporting an eye patch, his flamboyant jazz and blues playing earned him the moniker “The Black Liberace”. Another character was Ernie K-Doe, who after falling from fame hosted his own crazy radio show that developed a cult following. Furthermore, Allen Toussaint, the famous rhythm and blues producer originates from Gert Town, in New Orleans.

The New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival, founded in 1970, takes place every April. It is one of the biggest music festivals in the world and the second biggest event of the year, only rivaled by Mardi Gras.

If you are looking for good local Jazz music, I would recommend Frenchmen Street above Royal or Bourbon street. One place in particular called Snug Harbor is excellent but any bar on Frenchmen will provide you with high quality Jazz. When you enter bars here be sure to grab a seat and a drink. As the artist plays a hat will be passed around the room and it is customary to give the band a small tip for their efforts.

Bourbon is an excellent party street and if you are looking for Soul, Blues, Rap, Country or Rock you will surely find a bar for you. If you want an authentic Jazz experience, Preservation Hall is your place. Beware the hall is always busy and the space gets packed quickly. If its busy, no worries, there are plenty of other bars on the strip.

It should be noted that “When the Saints Go Marching In”, a traditional gospel song turned into a Jazz standard by none other than Louis Armstrong is the official anthem of the city. The New Orleans Saints football team is named after this song.

Literature:

Since the city is a mecca for music it should be no surprise that it also doubles for another literary art, that of the written word. The city has been a playground for the Novelist and the Playwright.

Tennessee Williams, author of A Streetcar Named Desire and Cat on a Hot Tin Roof moved here in 1939. It is in this city that Williams found his stride.

Anne Rice is a more modern addition to the city. Her novel “Interview with a Vampire” is a favorite with fans of Gothic fiction and has been turned into a movie starring Tom Cruise and Brad Pitt.

For book lovers, the historic Beaux-Art Hotel Monteleone in the French Quarter is a must see, at its rotating carousel bar sat William Faulkner, Ernest Hemingway Truman Capote and Tennessee Williams. Capote in particular claimed to have been born in the hotel, that is an exaggeration but his mother did live in the hotel while pregnant with him. The hotel was also a favorite of historian Stephen E. Ambrose.

Movies:

New Orleans is a playground for filmmakers and actors alike. While I was in the town, a small section of street near Jackson Square, was closed to the public and filled with sand for the shooting of a wild-west Budweiser commercial. That ad campaign would air during the super bowl. Many famous movie stars have chosen to make the city their home, including Sandra Bullock who settled in the Garden District and Nick Cage who owned property in the city, including a pyramid shaped cemetery plot in the St-Louis cemetery (more on that later).

For a quick reference I have compiled a list of classic films filmed in the city:

• A Streetcar Named Desire (1951): Elia Kazan directs Marlon Brando and Vivian Leigh in this smoldering classic by New Orleans playwright Tennessee Williams.
• King Creole (1958): This 50’s flick starring Elvis Presley was a very popular picture.
• The Cincinnati kid (1965): A New Orleans gambling film starring Steve McQueen, What more do you want!
• Easy Rider (1969): “Born to be Wild”, this 60’s classic is the granddaddy of road trip movies, exploring counterculture through the intermediary of a star studded cast and a controversial scene filmed in the St-Louis cemetery.
• Live and Let Die (1973): This classic Bond film embraced voodoo, blaxploitation, the bayou, the jazz funeral and a killer Paul McCartney title track for one of the most fun action films of all time.
• Hard Times (1975): This movie follows the story of a depression era drifter played by the great Charles Bronson who competes in illegal bare knuckle fistfights and enters a partnership with a hustler played by James Colburn.
• Tightrope (1984): Clint Eastwood stars as a New Orleans cop tracking a killer through the dimly lit French Quarter.
• Miller’s Crossing (1990): This Coen Brother crime film may not be the best know picture on this list but the tightly wound picture has gathered a cult following.
• Wild at Heart (1990): David Lynch, the Wizard of Oz and comedy, who would have thought! This is my kind of Valentine day flick.
• The Skeleton Key (2005): Although not technically filmed in the city, the film is shot at the Felicity plantation up the Mississippi river towards Oak Alley plantation but I pair it in the New Orleans films as it is a popular stopping point for tourists visiting the city.
• Interview with the Vampire (1994): This juicy vampire flick is an adaptation of New Orleans writer Anne Rice’s first book of her Vampire Chronicles series. It stars Tom Cruise and Brad Pitt.
• Bad Lieutenant: Port of Call New Orleans (2009): This Nick Cage remake of the original Bad Lieutenant is a surprisingly great movie about a corrupt police detective. The setting is no longer New York, as the title suggests the film is now located in New Orleans, and centered around the time of hurricane Katrina.
• 12 Years a Slave (2013): Like skeleton key, most of the movie was filmed outside of New Orleans, this award-winning film charts the story of a Free-Man that was kidnapped and sold into slavery.

There are many more films not included in this list but it should be a good overview. Many movie locations can be accessed, whether they be a historic plantation or a cemetery.

Sports:

I won’t go into too much detail, as there could be a whole blog post dedicated to New Orleans sports so I will keep it simple. The Saints rule the roost, they play at the Louisiana Superdome and are a big part of the community. The stadium hosted victims of Katrina in 2005 and did so for several other hurricanes in the past. People in Louisiana are very passionate about their football team and you will see paraphernalia everywhere.

Speaking of which, I was out on a Monday and could not believe the crowds watching college football. The team to cheer for if you are local is the Louisiana State University Tigers but let be real, there is one university team that dominates the conversation in New Orleans and that’s “Bama” (University of Alabama). I was out on a Monday night and the bar was packed!

The New Orleans basketball team is called the Pelicans, an odd name considering that there is a team called the Utah Jazz and Utah has nothing to do with Jazz. The reason for this is that the Jazz was the old team name before the team was sold.

Districts & Architecture:

New Orleans is a city of neighbourhoods just as much as New York, San Francisco and Montreal are. Most of them deserve your attention due to their unique cultures and architecture.

The French Quarter:

The historic French Quarter lies parallel to the northern bend of the Mississippi river. Once, the residents of this district would have been connected to the river, but today a flood protection berm cuts the district off from its historic waterfront. The district is delineated by Canal Street in the west, Esplanade in the east, Rampart in the north and by the river in the south. Once home to the French Creole population, today it is the touristic area of the city with a vast array of historic buildings, bars, museums.

At the center of the quarter is the Saint Louis cathedral, it is fronted by Jackson Square, a large public space with a dominating statue of Andrew Jackson on a horse. Flanking it are the Ursuline Convent and the The Presbytère two of the most prominent buildings from the colonial period. To the east side of the square is The Cabildo, the seat of government during the Spanish period. Beside the cathedral is a Pirate’s Alley where you can find the apartment William Falkner occupied in 1925 when he wrote his first novel. If you are so inclined, ask a local about the alley’s famous ghost story, that of the priest Père Dagobert who illegally buried the French dead of the Spanish administration’s executions.

As mentioned earlier the closing of the red-light district of Storyville displaced the rift-raft to the French Quarter turning it into a slum. The area experienced a revival of sorts during WW2 when servicemen turned Bourbon Street into a rowdy destination. In the 1960’s the residents of the city won a fight against a freeway expansion through the French Quarter and since then the area has been meticulously preserved. Being located on slightly higher land than the rest of the city, the French Quarter escaped Katrina largely unharmed. This emphasis on preservation has left many heritage structures for one to gaze at with their elegant iron railing and balconies. Take full advantage of this preservation by visiting several period houses such as the Gallier, Hermann-Grima House, 1850 House or the Beauregard-Keyes house. A visit to these houses will help you understand the complicated relationship between the French, Americans and slaves as well as the Placage system. In addition there are still a few old fashioned wooden porched Creole cottages like, Madame John’s Legacy, left in the Quarter. For those wanting to grab a drink in a really old building, Jean Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop is the oldest building in the quarter with a founding date of 1722, it now operates as a bar, one that continued to serve during Katrina. Lastly for those looking for a high-class experience hit the hotel Monteleone’s carousel bar.

Another must visit site in the quarter is to explore the French market, this wonderful attraction takes up several city blocks and is one of the most important market structures in the United States. Not far from here you can visit the old Ursuline convent or the New Orleans Jazz museum, that’s if you aren’t burned out on history.

For those travelers that are a little more on the morbid side of things, there are many voodoo and ghost tours available in the French Quarter (see free tours by foot). Many of these tours will bring you to the LaLaurie house, a supposedly haunted dwelling belonging to a rich woman who tortured her slaves, a practice that was frowned upon in New Orleans society. There is also a museum of death located in the north west corner of the Quarter on Dauphine Street, although tacky the wide array of items is astounding. It includes items from the Unabomber as well as the Albert Fish letters if I can recall correctly. Not for the faint of heart by any means.

If ever lost in the French Quarter, remember, there are two street names to remember that can locate you quickly. The first is Royal Street, this is the major shopping street. The other is Bourbon, this street is where the party atmosphere is at.

Faubourg Tremé

Located to the north of the French Quarter, this neighbourhood was the focus of the HBO Television Series of the same name. The district is bounded by Rampart street (where the French fortification once stood) in the south and was the historic home of the Free Black community. As such it had a strong Creole culture. Today the district contains the historic Congo Square, where jazz was invented. Unfortunately, a large part of the district was torn down in a failed urban renewal project. Today Louis Armstrong park stands in its place. As for food, if you are looking for soul food, Treme with its African American heritage, is the place for you.

The most visited site in the district is St. Louis No. 1 Cemetery. This is the oldest cemetery in New Orleans, built in 1789, to replace St Peter’s cemetery as the city was expanding and they no longer wanted a cemetery in the French Quarter. Since 2015, the cemetery has closed to individual visitors due to safety and vandalism concerns. It is still possible to visit with a tour group. I would recommend a walking tour like the one offered by free tours by foot. The cemetery, organized in stacked tombs, contains many famous corpses including the Voodoo Queen Marie Laveau and Bernard de Marigny. A stop can be made to see the location of the famous Easy Rider scene.

In 2010, Nicholas Cage bought a plot and built himself a pyramid shaped tomb. For those who want more of the cemetery experience, St. Louis no2 Cemetery is located just north of here.

Faubourg Marigny, Bywater and Ninth Ward

Located east of French quarter, Marigny starts at Esplanade eventually merging into Bywater. This later district ends at the Industrial Canal that separates it from the Ninth Ward. The architecture is distinct from the French Quarter. The brick buildings slowly give way to colorful wooden shotgun shacks and Creole cottages. This area of the city was created when Creole landowner Bernard de Marigny subdivided his land into plots. Bywater is where the black creole Homer Plessy was arrested for breaking the racial segregation laws, this led to the separate but equal doctrine and legalized segregation. The Ninth Ward is a little rougher around the edges but worth exploring if you are a music buff. You can go see the house of the legendary signer Fats Domino.

For those looking for a good time Marigny and Bywater are what one could consider the Bohemian districts of the city. Frenchman is the absolute best place to catch live jazz and has a lively night market. This area of the city is known for its big brass bands and street parties. This area is considered by some to be a more accurate New Orleans experience. Come see what the fuss is all about.

Algiers Point

Take a ferry to the other side of the Mississippi river to Algiers Point, a historic 20th century neighbourhood. From the water you will see the French Quarter and the modern skyline, a great view at any time of day. After getting off the ferry don’t miss the Louis Armstrong statue located outside the ferry terminal, to the west. This is a quiet residential district and will make quite the contrast with the lively city on the other side of the river, the area is very safe so feel free to walk around and enjoy.

I would recommend climbing the flood protection berm and taking the Mississippi trail to a Bar called Old Point Bar. The walk over will allow you to see some of the best preserved heritage buildings on this side of the river including the old courthouse. The Old Point Bar is a great local bar with some live music and an interesting interior.

CBD & Warehouse District

This district starts at the edge of the French Quarter, where palm lined Canal street extends from the waterfront. This site used to be the neutral ground between French and English populations in the city and where exchanges would take place between the two cultures. The central business district of New Orleans is an architectural gem, you can see the skyline consisting of 20th century skyscrapers dominating the French Quarter, reminders of a different time when the city was a powerful commercial center. Beside this district is the Warehouse District. This old industrial area filled with warehouses was revitalized during the 1984 Word’s Fair. Today it hosts some of the best museums the city has to offer such as the Confederacy museum and the National WW2 Museum. Unfortunately for those that enjoy Confederate history the statue of General Lee has been taken down by the city, this stirred quite a bit of controversy with supporters and detractors appearing in the media.

Garden District & Magazine Street

Take the historic tramway out of the French Quarter to explore the American side of the city. Here grand old homes dot the landscape around the historic Lafayette cemetery. The district is bounded by lively St Charles Street in the North and Magazine Street in the south. This area contains many great shops and restaurants along the main arteries particularly Magazine Street. Although it is quieter than some of the other districts there is still much to do. Many American celebrities own houses in this district including the Manning’s and Sandra Bullock.

Day Trips:

New Orleans has a plethora of day trips available for the travelers looking to leave the metropolitan area.

Bayou Tours:

Home of the Cajun people, the bayou makes for a scenic day-trip. First settled by displaced Acadians 300 years ago this swampy wonderland is commonly found along the Gulf of Mexico or in our case anywhere south of New Orleans. There is a reason the bayou is so often used as filming locations. These slow moving bodies of water are beautiful. The old growth Cypress trees covered in Spanish moss, sentinels of the swamp arch over the waterways while alligators lurk just below the surface preparing for their next meal. The bayou is also home to many species of birds including Herons and Pelicans, the bird of the state. The Mississippi bayous are also commercial waterways, hence there are many leftovers of industrial activity to be found, including abandoned canals and old oil derricks rusting away. These ruins, along with the old shoreline cemeteries, will surely give you the willies. 

There are several options when wanting to visit the bayou but I would recommend taking the tour with a Cajun operator. Our air-boat driver was an old stock Cajun and upon learning we were French Canadian used what he still had of his French, a really personal touch and he was happy to do it. A local operator will also explain how to navigate the Bayous, the old way, before they had GPS. It is a really interesting experience.

Plantations Tours:

There used to be over a hundred plantations on the stretch of the Mississippi river between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. Today there are only a few left. One of these, Oak Alley, is must see. It has twenty-five, 300 year old, oak trees that were mysteriously planted here before Europeans arrived. Many movies including The Long, Hot Summer and Interview with the Vampire have used the grounds for filming. Behind the plantation are rebuilt slave quarters to show what life was like for the people forced to work here.

Also worth seeing are St Joseph (The skeleton key was filmed here), Laura, San Francisco Plantation, Evergreen and Whitney plantation. Between all of these, there are many stories to be told.

Chalmette River Boat:

Chalmette is a parish south-east of the city, there are many boats that take your up and down the Mississippi but I recommend this one. This tour gives you an overview of the history of the city and from the boat you can still see the damage caused by Katrina. The boat docks at the national historic site of the Battle of New Orleans that took place at the Chalmette Plantation. You will learn about many colourful characters such as Jean Lafitte and Andrew Jackson. For those not partied out yet, you can also take a Jazz cruise with bottomless mimosas. History, music and booze all in one boat-ride; what’s not to like!

Katrina Tours:

Many tours are still available for people wishing to see the full extent of damages caused by hurricane Katrina. The French Quarter came out relatively unscathed in the aftermath of Katrina. In many neighboring parishes (as well as some parts of the city) there still exists many areas that have still not recovered. Many locals with first-hand knowledge of the events can guide and give you stories of the looting and other events associated with the disaster.

Places to Eat:

There are so many great places to eat in New Orleans but I will only recommend a few for the sake of keeping this section brief.

Napoleon:

This house, once owned by the French mayor of New Orleans, Nicholas Girod, was part of a plot intended to smuggle Napoleon to New Orleans while he was in exile. Girod, the proud Frenchman that he was, offered his home to the general. Napoleon died in 1821 and so the building, once a bar that became a haunt for many writers, now houses one of the very best restaurants in town. Don’t let the drab exterior fool you. The grey French stucco building, with iron railing and shutters still maintains much of its identity. On the inside much of the original decor remains, with many paintings and writing adorning the walls. The floors are uneven and the decaying courtyard only adds to the charm. You can get many classic New Orleans dishes here as well as the Pimm’s cup cocktail, Napoleon’s signature drink.

Le Café du Monde

If you want to indulge your sweet tooth, Cafe Du Monde is the place for you. Established in 1862 it brings Creole coffee tradition and Cajun beignets together for a delicious breakfast. The coffee served is “Cafe au Lait”, meaning that hot milk is added to your coffee. The beignets are deep fried dough pastries with loads of icing sugar. This New Orleans staple always has a lineup so be sure to come early if you mean to stop for breakfast.

Nightlife:

What to Drink:

Just a warning New Orleans beer is, like many Americana brews, pretty horrible. You will want to stick to the hard stuff, Luckily the city has you covered. Here are a few classic New Orleans drinks:

Herbsaint:

This New Orleans substitute for Absinthe is used in many cocktails.

Southern Comfort Bourbon Whiskey:

Although bourbon can be found throughout the American south, particularly Kentucky, this popular bourbon was created in New Orleans in the Lower Garden district. The antebellum Woodland Plantation south of New Orleans adorned the bottles until recently. This is America’s answer to cognac, so enjoy.

Sazerac:

This traditional New Orleans whiskey cocktail combines Herbsaint, Peychaud’s Bitters, and sugar.

Hurricane:

This is the best known of the city’s cocktails, having been created at Pat O’Brien’s in the French Quarter. It combines fruit punch, grenadine and rum and is usually poured pretty strong. Enjoy!

Pimm’s Cup:

A gin-based drink, Pimm’s combines lemonade and cucumber. This drink may be English but Napoleons in the French quarter has its own famous variation of the beverage.

Milk Punch

This popular southern drink combines sweet bourbon with milk, sugar, and vanilla with nutmeg sprinkled on top. Think eggnog meets bourbon.

Ramos Gin Fizz

A specialty of the Roosevelt Hotel, this is a local variation of a gin fizz is labour intensive. It combines gin, lemon juice, lime juice, egg white, sugar, orange flower water, and soda water and cream.

Daiquiri and Pizza

You will come across these retro bars all across the city. The Daiquiri is poured strong and the Daiquiri crash is a real thing. The pizza is forgettable, the Daiquiri is not.

Bars:

It is not difficult to find a bar in New Orleans, you can find one on every corner. I have mentioned several places throughout this guide and will give a quick summary of where to go:

• Patty O’Brien’s on Bourbon Street has a great outdoor terrace, interesting cocktails and a flaming fountain.
• Kermit’s Mother in Law Lounge is a great joint to understand the music of the eccentric Ernie K Doe and the history of New Orleans soul.
• Snug harbor on Frenchmen offers the best jazz in town. If full then explore historic Frenchmen and its local music scene.
• For those seeking a higher class or literary bar the Carousel Bar and the bar at the Roosevelt Hotel offer an unparalleled experience.
• For those looking for an old time place go to Napoleon’s
• For an authentic music experience on Bourbon Street go to Preservation Hall
• If you just want to have a good time and you don’t care what you do Bourbon offers many great dives like bars hidden in laundromats, bars where people pretend to be vampires, a bar that has a revolving barber chair and many other novelties. The best part of Bourbon street is as you pub crawl down the street late in the evening, the food options transition to greasy breakfast food.

Conclusion:

New Orleans is my favourite North American city and one of the most unique places in the world. If you haven’t been, this city should absolutely be on your bucket list. It is the only city where I have experienced such a stimulation of all five senses; sight, hearing, taste, smell and touch. The city has a colourful history and friendly people. What more can you ask for.

I will leave you with a historic New Orleans saying:

Beware Pickpockets and Loose Women

Yes it’s that kind of town and I love it!