Mont-Tremblant – An Introduction to the Laurentides
One of the most recognizable regions of Eastern Canada, is perhaps its most overrated. In winters people flock to the Mt. Tremblant ski resort when much superior slopes exist in similar proximity, yet I find that the region still holds its charms.
Table of Contents
Geography
The mountainous Laurentide region of Canada are located just north of the Quebec metropolis of Montreal. This heavily forested region is known for its stunning fall colors, ski hills and crystalline summer lakes. The fall colours are largely due to the high concentration of maple trees, a Canadian staple!
This is but a small part of the Laurentian mountain chain stretching along the north shore of the St. Laurence River.
A Brief History
Traditionally Algonquin tribal territory, this region was settled from the mid 19th century-on by French Canadians. Although predominantly agricultural the region became a ski and recreation hub over the course of the 20th century. The early development of the land was fulled by New England money but the construction of Highway 15 in the 1970’s created an unprecedented construction boom and today the region is one of the most popular resort destinations in Eastern Canada.
What to do in Mont-Tremblant?
Mont Tremblant is the name of both an old Quebec Village, a National (Provincial Park) and a ski resort on the lake of the same name. In this post I will give you an overview of all of these.
Visit the Ski Hill and the Resort Village
I must admit that I am not the biggest fan of Mt. Tremblant’s Disney like ski village aesthetic, but many people do and that’s ok (In many ways it reminds me of Blue Mountain Ski Resort in Ontario)! That being said, the village accomplishes its purpose, it is pretty (ish), is pedestrian friendly, has condo units, hotels, shops and restaurants. In the winter the big draw is the ski hill of the same name. In my own honest opinion its is by far the most overrated ski hill in North America but has clearly been made popular by virtue of its many amenities. The main ski runs, stay close the the gondola and are usually clogged by inexperienced snowboarders/skiers. For my money, I would spend my time at another side of the hill such as “The Edge” where you will find many glades and less crowds. I will say that the view from the top of the mountain is quite pretty but I would prefer the authentic old school ski experience of a Vermont hideaway like Smugglers notch, the Olympic calibre slopes of Whiteface or the fantastically beautiful experience of skiing into the St Laurence that you get from a Mont St. Anne or Le Massif near Quebec city.
At the base of the village, you will find a vestige of the Authentic Laurentides of old, the Chapelle Saint-Bernard. Constructed in 1941, at the start of the economic boom in the region, it is a replica of a similar 17th church located on the île d’Orleans near Quebec city. The story of the church is intertwined with that of the famous resort and its legendary founder. It begins with a young millionaire for Philadelphia by the name of Joseph Bondurant Ryan. He wishes to turn Mt. Tremblant into an international destination after an adventurous hike up the mountain to ski down. To do so he begins the process of building a village at the base of the mountain, along with the first ski lifts. One of the first buildings constructed as part of his vision, the chapel is dedicated to St. Bernard – the patron saint of skiers. On every Sunday a special benediction was performed by the town priest for the sportsmen assembled at the building.
In the summer, hike up the ski hill or take the gondola up for a great view of the lake and the resort. If walking up the hill you will find giant Muskoka chairs part way up so you can admire a view of the village.
In the village itself you will find many things to do such as rock climbing, an indoor pool and downhill carting on an asphalt course. Outside the village you will find a casino an many golf courses. I recommend the Grey Rocks, the site of the original Laurentide Ski Resort and Hotel. Unfortunately the centennial resort on Lac Ouimet was closed during the great recession and burned down in what is suspected to be an arson fire but the golf courses remain.
For those interested in grabbing a drink there is no shortage of pubs/nightclubs, either at the base of the hill itself or around the resort. A particular favorite is the Microbrewerie Le Diable. The brewery is named after the Diable River in nearby Mont Tremblanc National Park.
Although I find it easy to criticize the village, you can have loads of fun here! If you wish to explore more of the region for an authentic Laurentides experience, I recommend visiting the Old Village of Mt. Tremblant, St. Agate-des-Monts or the city of St. Jerome at the base of the Laurentides.
Lac Superior and the Liberator Crash Memorial
At the base of the Mt. Tremblant Park, you will find a pretty lake filled region. One of the largest of these is the Lac Superieur, located just east of the ski resort. Many chalets and condos have been built here and the view of the lake is magnificent.
The real charm of this location is that it is ideally located for one to visit either the ski hill or to visit the national park just to the north. Before you do either I recommend visiting the trail in St. Donat to the the North-East of the site. Accessible by trailhead is the site of the 1943 wreckage of the liberator, a 1943 military plane crash that claimed the life of 24 Canadian servicemen. The remains of the crash were only dicovered two years later, in the Quebec wilderness, by accident. The remains were repatriated to the St. Donat cemetery and today a makeshift shrine consisting of commemorative crosses, the wreckage of the plane and an observation tower mark the site of the fatal accident. This is a great hike if you have time.
Back at Lac Superieur you will find a statue of Mary looking at the lake, a reminder of a previous religious institution once based here but now long gone.
Mont-Tremblant National Park (Provincial)
Quebec has a propensity for calling things national instead of provincial, something I found out when I entered the park and realized the gates were maned by the Quebec Government and not Parks Canada. From the park gates, you will make your way up the sandy shores of the Diable river towards lake Monroe. The Diable river is an interesting natural feature, the narrow stream meanders its way downstream with a slow and circuitous route that loops around itself. One of the first stop offs in the park is for the Pic (summit) Johannsen via Sentier (pathway) Toit des Laurentides. I don’t recommend doing this hike as the view is pretty but not what I consider to be spectacular.
Before you hit Lake Monroe make sure to stop off and visit a waterfall or two. I personally recommend la Chute du Diable!
The visitors center is located on Lake Monroe and you will see a lot of watersports and various activities take place here.
Although it was summer (and this hike is best in fall), you can follow a trailhead called La Roche up to a balcony overlooking the lake. From here you will get a fantastic view! It is a relatively short trail but keep 1-1.5 hours to complete it as it is a moderate climb up!
Old Mont-Tremblant (Saint-Jovite)
The village of Mont Tremblant is authentic a place as you will find in the Laurentides. Centered around the Saint-Jovite church, it was formerly its own municipality – called Sainte-Jovite. Although eclipsed by the “new” Tremblant, this is by far my preferred place to stay.
In town you will find many homes that proudly display typical French-Canadian architecture. The town was founded in the late 19th century and was eventually merged with its neighbours to create the municipality if Mont-Tremblant.
In town you will find many patio’s as well as a wide assortment of shops.
Conclusion
Whether you are visiting in summer or winter, the Laurentide region will offer something to you. Spend a while, explore its nooks and crannies and you will enjoy your stay
