Mont Rigaud – A Grotto, A Sugar Shack and Some Ruins, What More Could One Want!
This small Quebec town located part way between the cities of Ottawa and Montreal is not a place I had ever thought of stopping off at during my many road trips trips along the 417 highway. Riguaud, at one point, was primarily known for its small ski hill and producing many strippers for Quebec’s clubs. I had assume rather unfairly that there was little to see here when in reality this town is the perfect stop for a daytrip!
Table of Contents
A Brief Background
Originally Algonquin territory, its original inhabitants were driven away due to the Iroqois raids. With the arrival of the French in New France, The Seigneury of Rigaud, was granted to the brothers Pierre and François-Pierre de Rigaud de Vaudreuil, governors in New France, in 1732. The area would not see its first European settlers until the establishment of Rigaud village in 1783, at that time but a pitstop for loggers and transportation node for timber and cereals. The fortune of the town was greatly improved with the construction of the nearby Pointe-Fortune-Carillon canal as well as the construction of railways. The canal is built on the Ottawa river, upstream of the Rigaud river and helped to make the Ottawa more navigable. Finally the town became a hub for religious institutions. The mid and late twentyith century was difficult for the town. Its industries were decimated and an increasingly secular Quebec had little use for some of the institutions based in the town. In recent years however Rigaud has steadily recovered, becoming a hub of sorts for recreation activity. It is also a hub for Canada’s border services, providing many jobs for its residents.
The town itself is based around a hill of the same name. It is one of the few you will see south of the Ottawa river along this stretch of highway and as such always stands out as a marker when traveling to Montreal from Ottawa.
What to Do in Rigaud
Visit the Town
Although I have put the Village at the start of this post it really should be kept for last. After a full day of hiking, biking, or any other kind of exercising, it will be nice to come back into town for a quick pint and poutine. The town is built around the Rigaud river, located in a deep ditch, itself spilling into the Ottawa river a few kilometers down stream. The towns traditional main street follows this river and is headlined by the St. Magdalen Church. The church is located at the intersection of Roadway 342 and Rue St. Pierre.
I recommend down down the later. As previously mentioned the roadway follows the river and includes many of Rigaud premier businesses including Le Cafe de L’Horloge, a stunning masonry building with an iconic clocktower. This is a very nice cafe and the rear yard faces the river, making it an ideal location for a business. You will also find the public library as well as several French-Canadian styled wood cottages and a few Gothic masonry structures. The most noteworthy building is the private roman catholic school called le Collège Bourget. Established in 1850 it is one of those religious institutions mentioned earlier and has quite an impressive campus.
Along the perpendicular Roadway 342 you will find many of the towns bars, bakeries, grocery stores and pizzerias allowing you to stock up on food for the day or to fill up on beer and food after a long day out.
Explore the Mount Rigaud
The real charm of this area can be found spread out around the long ridge of the Rigaud mountain. Here skier own the mountain in winter while in the fall and summers the place is taken over by mountain bikers and hikers. In recent years the construction of the Arbraska, an outdoor aerial park complete with zip lines among the trees. For the moment this post will focus on Eastern sector of the hill.
There are a few good places to park if you want to explore the hill, either at the Sucrerie at the top of the hill, at the Grotto de Lourde or at the Collège Bourget arena, the last two of these located at the bottom of the hill. I recommend parking at the grotto and if it is full then parking at the college.
The Grotto De Lourde (Grotto De Rigaud!)
Taking after the more famous religious shrine in Lourde, France this outdoor shrine was a very popular place among believers in the past. Today it is clear that the shrine has seen better days. The outdoor audio equipment seem to the in terrible shape and the grounds could use a little work. In many ways the shrines layout reminds me of the Oratoire St. Joseph in Montreal. There is a central shrine raised up on a lawn and a cavaliere at the top.
In the summer the front lawn becomes an open air shrine where mass is performed outdoors. On the sides of the shines you will find “grottoes” where one can leave offerings.
These mock caves are kinda fun, and the one on the east side has a candle room for those seeking to light one.
You will aslo find the way of the cross on the parth leading up the hill to the cavaliere.
As well as a small shrine to St. Viateur.
The stone stairwell is light by streetlamps giving a beautiful look among the trees.
From the top you will get a gagnificnet view of the the church spires of the city and the ottawa river below.
The cavaliere itself is a beautiful domed structure and probably my favorite part of the shrine.
The Railway Ruins
At the base of the path up the mountain to the cross you will find a signpost with an explanation of the mining operations and a mining cart filled with Rigaud granite stones.
The exploitation of the mountain begins in 1783 with the exploitation of the mountains forest and waters. During the 20th century the exploitation of Rigaud’s stone began for the production of funerary monuments, especially for the granite. This industry took place from 1913 to 1931, after witch the great depression and a mining accident would shut down operations .
You will find a ruins of charging port and railway nearby. At one point a massive wood truss elevated railway bridge connected the mining site to the town and a charging port was constructed to load the stone. The stone ruins is a prominent part of this industrial heritage.
Le Champ Du Diable (The Devils Field)
Early in you hike you will come across a giant field of stones, stretching part way up the mountain. The stone themselves are part of a fun French Canadian story about how the devil turned farmers potato fields to stones after they worked on Sundays. Of course we know that its not the case but I do enjoy a good story!
When the mining of the stone that was described above began, a second great devil story was created where the devil himself would resplendent the massive pile of stone at night after sections had been cleared by the miners.
Up at the Mount Rigaud Cross and Summit
Mont rigaud only has an elevation of 221metera, as such it should be a pretty quick half hour hike up the mountain.
From the top of the hill you will have a fantastic view of the Quebec landscape as well as the Ontarian faemscape in the distance.
Here you will find a lookout platform and the Rigaud cross itself.
From the top of of the hill I unpacked my lunch and enjoyed the view! I recommend you do the same.
The Sucrerie de la Montagne (The Sugar Shack)
At the top of the mountain, the a local road has been constructed along the ridgeline, you will find Rigau’s most impressive attraction, the Sucrerie de la Montagne. From the parking lot you will find trails heading though the forest in every direction.
The Sucrerie itself is a collection of lumber buildings with stone chimneys and tin roofs as well as an outdoor fire pit and other amenities such as a photo booth and ax throwing.
There are other outlying such a makeshift general store and a recreated sawmill.
The sucrerie itself serves many french Canadian meals such a homemade pea soup and bacon & beans as well as classics such a crepes with maple syrup. The inside is even better looking then the outside with a massive dining room with wood tables and furniture.
The outside patio is also very quaint. I recommend having a meal here, especially breakfast or brunch.
Conclusion
In brief, there is actually a lot of activities available to tourists in this little town and certainly enough to fill a weekend. Rigaud may very boom in the future as the demand for outdoor amenity spaces and recreational spaces only continues to increase.
