Milan – Lombardy’s Economic Powerhouse
A city borne of style and beauty, Milan is nevertheless a bustling metropolis full of life and chaos, just as any city. One of the oldest urban centres in Northern Italy, Milan took full advantage of the industrial revolution to elevate itself to the post of the country’s second city, becoming synonymous with Italian culture including style and fashion.
Table of Contents
- Geography
- A Brief History
- Transportation
- What to do in Milan
- Duomo di Milano and the Piazza (Cathedral and Cathedral Square)
- Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
- Piazza della Scala, Teatro alla Scala and Leonardo3 Museum
- The Manzoni House
- Borsa Italiana
- Piazza dei Mercanti
- Colonne di San Lorenzo and the Basilica San Lorenzo Maggiore
- Basilica di Sant’Eustorgio
- View the Ruins of the City Walls
- Naviglio Canals
- Santa Maria delle Grazie and the Catholic University of the Sacred Heart
- Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Tecnologia Leonardo da Vinci
- Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio
- Sforzesco Castle and Sempione Park
- Basilica of San Simpliciano
- Monumental Cemetery
- Bagatti Valsecchi Museum
- Corso Como
- A Few Extra Pictures
- Conclusion
Geography
Located in the Poe river valley, Milan occupies an prime position in the heart of Lombardy. The city is organized in a concentric way around its medieval center, where its roads follow the Navigli canals system, now covered.
A Brief History
The beautiful structures built during the antebellum years do hide the ancient character of the city, however those with a keen eye will be able to spot the signs of both the medieval city and Roman city hidden amongst the newer structures.
Antiquity
The city has its roots in an ancient Celtic settlement dating from 600 BC. Livy accord the foundation of the city to the Gaulish king Ambicatus who sent his nephew Bellovesus to the region. In 222 AD the Romans led by Gnaeus Cornelius Scipio Calvus took the city. They gave it the name Mediolanum. It was important enough for Emperor Diocletian to name it the new capital of the Western Roman Empire in 286 AD. It was then the home of co-emperor
The city has its roots in an ancient Celtic settlement dating from 600 BC. Livy accord the foundation of the city to the Gaulish king Ambicatus who sent his nephew Bellovesus to the region. In 222 AD the Romans led by Gnaeus Cornelius Scipio Calvus took the city. They gave it the name Mediolanum. It was important enough for Emperor Diocletian to name it the new capital of the Western Roman Empire in 286 AD. It was then the home of his co-emperor Maximian who embarked on an impressive building spree. This city would continue to stay relevant with Emperor Constantine‘s Edict of Milan being signed in Mediolanum in 313 AD, guaranteeing religious tolerance in the Empire – an important turning point in the history of Christianity.
It lost its capital status in 402 when besieged by the Visigoths. Trouble soon followed and the city was once again under siege in 452, by the Huns, who would sack it.
Middle Ages and the Renaissance
In 539, during the Gothic War Milan would be razed by the Ostrogoths while under guard by a Byzantine garrison. It would then be taken by the Lombards and then the incorporated in Holy Roman Empire when it was taken by Charlemagne and the Franks in 774.
The city once again rose to prominence in this period becoming a powerful city state, with the ability to wage war against its neighbours. Emperor Frederick I Barbarossa was called in to help neighbouring cities against Milan, but the city resisted even capturing Empress Beatrice whom they made ride a donkey though the city. The city fell in 1162 but due to the rise of trade and its prime position, Milan was soon again, one of the largest urban centers in Europe. The dukedom of Milan was created in 1395, even becoming a short lived state called the Ambrosian Republic.
In the 16th century, the city became a leading part of the Italian renaissance but would soon become embroiled in the Italian Wars. This conflict would pit France against the Habsburg Empire, and result in the end of Milan’s self rule. After initial French success, northern Italy passed to Habsburg Spain. The 17th century saw the Great Plague of Milan in 1629–31, an event that saw 60 000 perish, almost half of the city’s population.
The Spanish rule was not a huge success and upon the end of the Spanish line in 1701, the war of the War of the Spanish Succession took place pitting France against the Austrians. The city then became part of the Austrian Habsburg possession with a short stint in Napoleonic France when Milan was made capital of the Kingdom of Italy. This was not to last however and the city returned to Austrian rule.
During the revolutions of 1848 the city rebelled against Austria and with French help became part of the Italian Kingdom Piedmont-Sardinia and then again in a Kingdom of Italy once the former was able to absorb other Italian states. The Austrian and Italian years were good to the city as it became a natural railway hub north, after a few tunnels were completed. It was also part of the fabled Orient Express, its tourism potential only increasing as the city inched towards the 20th century.
The advent of electricity saw the city harness its watercourses for hydrolic power and helping it become an industrial center for both the steel and textile sector. This period saw the rise of class conflicts that would result in the Bava Beccaris massacre.
Word Wars and the Modern Era
Although stable throughout the first World War, the city became a hub for fascist in the interbellum years. The city was an early base for Benito Mussolini who staged his March on Rome on 28 October 1922 from here. During the Second World War was heavily damaged by allied bombings. When Italy flipped side in 1943, the city along with Italy’s north were occupied by Germans. The Huns plundered and in turn the Italian guerrilla movement grew in popularity.
In 1945 the advancing allied armies found the city already liberated by the resistance. Mussolini was hanged and exposed in Piazzale Loreto square where previously resistance members themselves were executed.
The post war years were those of plenty in the city. Immigration from the countryside ballooned the city’s population and the economy expanded substancially. Unfortunately that period came to an end in the 1060’s with the Years of Lead when radical labour movements terrorized the streets and even set off a bomb. In the 80’s the city rebounded and its fashion houses found international success. Despite the decline of the city’s manufacturing industry, new projects have helped revitalized those same industrial lands.
Transportation
As one of the leading centers of Europe, the city sports a massive rail hub. This Art Deco building dates from 1931 and is built to impress.
Its inside consists of a massive concourse with a high glassed ceiling.
Its monumental facade looks out at the busy modern skyline. Unfortunately some halfwit landscape architect or artist decided to add some modern art to the plaza such as this retarded apple.
For those looking to get around the city itself, you will find both the metro and the tramways to be quite useful.
What to do in Milan
Bring your best walking shoes because this city’s medieval core is dense and full of interesting sights.
Duomo di Milano and the Piazza (Cathedral and Cathedral Square)
Known as the Metropolitan Cathedral-Basilica of the Nativity of Saint Mary… yet hardly referred to in this way, Milan’s cathedral is a lot to handle. One could easily spend the day trying to take in its endless detailing and its shows! It took nearly 600 years for this Gothic masterpiece to see fruition from 1386 to 1965 to be exact. The Dome is at the center of the old town with streets radiating out from it. This is purposeful as it was located at the original center of the medieval city.
For those brave enough you can actually make it up onto the roof of the building for incomparable views.
Opposite to the cathedral you will find a statue of Vittorio Emanuele II, the king of unified Italy, on horseback.
You can also visit the Palazzo Reale di Milano, a grand 18th century palace.
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
To the north of the square you will find the second most recognizable building in the city the gallaria. Named after the previously mentioned king, it is hard to believe that this building was almost destroyed during the Second World War.
Completed in 1877, the impressive shopping arcade houses a massive cast iron and glass roof.
At the center of the central dome you will find a mosaic with the crest of the Kingdom of Savoy
Piazza della Scala, Teatro alla Scala and Leonardo3 Museum
North of the Gallaria you will find the Piazza della Scala along with the theatre of the same name.
Here you will find the 16th century Palazzo Marino as well as a statue of Leonardo de Vinci. This is where you will find the Leonardo3 Museum, showcasing some of his works.
The Manzoni House
This home is now a museum dedicated to the writer Alessandro Manzoni. This author’s most famous work is a novel called The Betrothed. He played an important part in stabilizing and shaping the modern Italian language.
Borsa Italiana
Not a must see, but if interested you will find Italy’s stock exchange not far from the above mentioned square.
Piazza dei Mercanti
This medieval square just west of the cathedral is home to an impressive old market building made of masonry.
Colonne di San Lorenzo and the Basilica San Lorenzo Maggiore
If you wanted to see traces of the Roman city, look no further then the Colonne di San Lorenzo. This collection of 16 arches was once part of a Roman amphitheatre and bath that once stood on this site.
Behind the colonade is the the Basilica San Lorenzo Maggiore with a statue of Constantine parked out in front of it. The church dates from the fourth century but underwent a dramatic remodelling during the renaissance. The building’s ancient masonry area is considered to be symbol of the legacy of the Roman Empire in Milan and was protected, especially after previous Holy Roman Emperors demolished old Roman structures.
Basilica di Sant’Eustorgio
Just south of colonnade is an interesting Romanesque church named after an ancient bishop of Milan.
It was for many years an important stop for pilgrims on their journey to Rome or to the Holy Land, because it was said to contain the tomb of the Three Magi or Three Kings. These relics were brought over from Constantinople where they were previously held.
View the Ruins of the City Walls
Throughout the city you will find the remnant of the city’s roman walls, expanded during the medieval era.
A testament to their age can be seen in the multitude of different materials used in their construction.
Naviglio Canals
In the south of the city you will find the remnants of the Arco di Porta Ticinese. From here the ancient buried canals reappear and radiate southwards.
Their source is the Darsena basin and they are the Navigli Milano and the Naviglio Pavese. AS the canals narrow they fill with pleasant cafe’s and bars.
Santa Maria delle Grazie and the Catholic University of the Sacred Heart
My personal favourite church in Milan is the Romanesque church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. Originally founded in the fourth century, just outside the Roman walls of the city it was rebuilt in the 12th. It was commissioned by St. Ambrose and his remains can be found beneath.
Beside the church you will find a white pillar, known as the Devil’s Column due to a connection with an ancient myth. This legend states that the Devil made two holes in the rock with his horns in anger as he failed t seduce St. Ambrose into temptation.
Around the corner you will find a massive private university, Sacred Heart. It is a very pretty campus to walk though if you have the chance.
Also behind the church you will find the Tempio della Vittoria (Temple Of Victory). This distinct, mausoleum like structure dedicated to the Milanese war dead from the second world war.
Not far from it you will find a carved Armenian gravestone, a reminder of a Genocide a continent away.
Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Tecnologia Leonardo da Vinci
This science and tech museum houses replicas / scale models of Leonardo da Vinci’s submarine and planes.
Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio
A UNESCO site, the renaissance church may seem like many other but on the inside it houses a masterpiece by none-other then Leonardo da Vinci. This would be The Last Supper painting dating from 1498 depicting Jesus and his disciples. It was damaged during the second world war but fortunately its artwork survived.
Sforzesco Castle and Sempione Park
Possibly the larges attraction in Milan, this palace-fortress is a must see for any tourist. Built over what was once a Roman castle, the original structure dates from the 14th century however it was largely remodelled in the 15th century under the Sforza family after they defeated the Republicans.
Off of the west face of the castle there is a large park called Sempione, made of the former palace gardens after they were made public in the 19th century. Here you will find the Branca Tower, a modern steel structure with views of the city. You will also find a triumphal archway called Arco della Pace and the Triennale di Milano, a museum dedicated to special exhibit.
If you pay to enter the museum(s) you will have a lot to do. Not only is there an renaissance art collection with peaces from da Vinci and Michelangelo but also of archaeology, Egyptian artifact, ancient arts and a whole lot more.
Basilica of San Simpliciano
Basilica of San Simpliciano is an ancient structure that will not appear in many guidebooks due to the wealth of religious structures found in the city. It was commissioned in the 4th century by bishop St Ambrose and is the second oldest known church with a Latin cross layout. It was remodelled in the 12th and 13th century.
Monumental Cemetery
One of the most important cemeteries in Italy, this plot was built in the 19th century to consolidate many others. It is headlined by a massive central building that houses the tombs many of the city’s greats including the writer Alessandro Manzoni’s and that of Carlo Cattaneo, the architect of the Milan Revolt of 1848.
Bagatti Valsecchi Museum
This perfectly preserved renaissance home dating from the 16th century will take you back in time. If you are into historic homes this is the place to hit in Milan.
Corso Como
This picturesque pedestrian street located in the north end of town and is headlined by the Porta Garibaldi to the south.
In its center are two lovely fountains and a few different restaurants.
A Few Extra Pictures
Conclusion
Does anybody have anything untoward to say about Milan? I sure as hell don’t! The city was exactly as expected and if anything I was surprised at how much of its medieval and renaissance centre was still standing!