Meknes, Volubilis and Moulay Idriss- A Visit to Holy and Imperial Africa
Borne of sheer cruelty and spite, the opulence of Meknes, a new Royal city for the Kingdom of Morocco, was legendary. Today, the city is a shell of its former self. As one would have it brutality engenders resentment and much as the city had risen quickly, it would fall. Yet despite its fall from grace, the region surrounding Meknes is well worth exploring. To the north you have the splendid ruins of Volubilis, one of the best preserved ruins in North Africa as well as Moulay Idriss, an important religious center for North African Muslims.
Table of Contents
Geography
Easily accessible by its position between the ancient city of Fez and the Almohad capital of Rabat, Meknes sits in a rich agricultural plain protected by the Mountains and Forests. The climate is temperate and at times the vegetation can be lush, especially in the springs and summers. It shares this characteristic with most of Northern Morocco. This will come as a shock to those coming from the south of the country. Volubilis, the ancient roman city as well as Moulay Idriss located beside it are in an even better position. This impressive grain producing region is known for its emerald colour partially created by its microclimate, surrounded by a tight ring of forested mountains. Today fields dot the landscape reminding us that it was once the breadbasket of Roman Mauritania.
Apart from the above mentioned grain, this was/is also home to an ancient wine culture, one of the best in Morocco as well as the Volubilis olives, some of the Mediterranean’s best.
A Brief History
The area that these cities occupy today have been important since antiquity and have remained so though the ages.
Antiquity
The principal settlement in the region during the period of Antiquity was Volubilis. This ancient Punic land was populated by Carthaginians and became part of the Roman Empire after the fall of Carthage in 146 BC. The Romans installed Juba II of Numidia on the Mauretanian throne in 25 BC and his Royal capital at Volubilis began construction. The region was annexed in 44 BC and fell under direct rule, its population becoming Romanized Berbers.
Its position in the south of Rome’s Mauritanian holdings made it vulnerable to Berber kingdoms and new fortifications were constructed during the second century. Rome lost the province during the Crisis of the Third Century and never regained it, yet the city continued on. The coup de gras was an earthquake late in the fourth century, destroying it.
The city was briefly revived under the rule of the Byzantine Empire.
Early Islamic Era (Idriss I, the Almoravids and the Almohads and the Marinids)
At the time of the arrival of the Arabs 708 A.D the area was occupied by the a new group of Berbers migrating from Libya the town went by the name of Oualila but was mostly abandoned, much of the city center serving as a cemetery while a smaller section of the city still remained as the active capital for the region. The Arab settlement was located outside the city walls of the Berber one.
In 787 Idris I, a direct descendent of Mohamed took over Mauritania and much of Northern Morocco. He made is capital of Volubilis before his assassination by the Abbasids califs of Bagdad in 791. His tomb exists today at the town of Moulay Idriss, an important place of pilgrimage. The city continued to decline before its second abandonment sometime in the 14th century. The city of Meknes would takes its place, first being founded by the Almoravids and then taken over by the Almohads who would build the first mosque. The Marinids established their capital at Fez and Meknes remained a modest settlement.
Moulay Isma’il and the Alawite Period
Meknes’ rise stands in direct correlation to the fate of the Alawites, and one man in particular… Moulay Isma’il! Known for his cruelty and splendor he was directly responsible for transforming Meknes from a regional power to a rival of the great city of Fez. Once governor of the city, he made Meknes his capital upon his ascension to the throne in 1672. Needing a new capital after fighting to retake both Fes and Marrakesh from his rival nephew, Ahmad al-Mahriz, Ism’il punisher those cities harshly, especially Marrakesh whom had revolted three times against his rule. After destroying some of that cities palaces, he moved their wealth and marble north to Merknes to adorn his new Palaces. This new capital was built by Black, Christian and Muslim slaves, victims of his (and later) Alawite piracy and conquest, the former of these was also used as a personal army for the sultan. The splendorous palace-city continued construction for 55 years of his reign, reaching a level of excess, even for the luxurious lives of middle eastern sultans. He also expanded and improved the existing mosque at Moulay Idriss.
Like Volubilis, Meknes was heavily damaged during the Lisbon Earthquake of 1755. This combined with the ensuing anarchy and dynastic clashes brought on by the sultans death ruined the city. Many of the palaces were abandoned and/or turned into residential neighborhoods.
Colonial and Modern Periods
Like elsewhere in Morocco, the French Protectorate, redrew the map of the city setting apart the old town from the new town (Ville Nouvelle), the later built on a plateau outside the former. Meknes found new life under the French growing rapidly, with widened roads and new infrastructure, the becoming a military and logistics hub within the protectorate and later a hub for agriculture and viniculture. In 1937 riots took place that were put down violently and in 196 Morocco regained independence.
Unfortunately, in the case of Meknes, this was not a good thing. This period saw the elite of the city move to the coast and much of the historic town preserved by the French to fall into disrepair. Hopefully Morocco can mitigate or reverse this trend in future years.
Exploring Meknes
Meknes can be divided in roughly three parts; the Medina (Old Town), the Imperial City and the Nouvelle Ville. The first two are located on the west end of the Oued Boufakrane stream, located in a deep gulley and the later in located on the east side. Most travelers will arrive via the train station in the Ville Nouvelle.
The Ville Nouvelle
From the east of the city, you will enter the old town via a bridge crossing the Oued Boufakrane valley. It is in the Ville Nouvelle that most visitors will be introduced to Meknes, as the train station is located here. This part of the city was conceived by the French colonial administration to separate westerners from the diseases and uncleanliness of the old town. The streets are laid out in rational lines, and are wide enough to provide fire separation and cleanliness. They are also lined with many colonial era buildings.
NOTE: The train station is a great place to hire a cab for a day to visit both Volubilis and Moulay Idriss. They are generally reliable and can be bartered with for affordable rates.
From the You can either walk into town or taxi into town. From the distance you will see the old town rise on a high plateau above the region.
The Medina, Mellah, El Hedim Square and the Famed Gates of Bab El Mansour
The Old Town, also known as the Medina is built north of the imperial city, outside of the Imperial city walls. Just west of it is the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter of the city.
The focal point of this area is El Hedim Square, opposite to the imposing Bab El Mansour – the ornate gate to the imperial city. Considered to be one of North Africa’s most impressive surviving gateways. It was completed in 1732, after the passing of Sultan Moulay Ismail. The columns you see in the forefront were actually stolen from Volubilis by Sultan Moulay Ismail.
In the square you will find many food vendors. For those looking to explore the Medina, I recommend stopping at the Bou Inania Madrasa, a religious school opposite to the Great Mosque dating from 1350 A.D. Since it is not longer in use tourists can actually visit the Madrasa. The Madressa is considered a masterpiece of Marinid Architecture. Alternatively you could visit the Dar Jamai Museum, dedicated to local arts and craftmanship.
The Imperial City
The heart of old Meknes, the Imperial city is where the most beautiful palaces were constructed under the Alaouites led by Moulay Ismail. The complex is filled with many gates and has a labyrinth like feel. In fact it is likely due to Meknes’ meagre importance before his choosing of it as his capital that made it attractive to Moulay Ismail. From here he had a blank slate away from the intrigue of the old royal capitals.
If you were wondering there all the Italian marble from Marrakesh’s El Badhi went, it would be here. Although it may not seem like much today this was once the center of a powerful cabal.
After Moulay Ismail’s death, the Alaouites would relocate to Rabat leaving the palaces of the imperial city to decay.
Bassin Souani and the Heri es-Souan (The Granary and the Royal Stables Ruins)
Located on the southern side of Meknes’s imperial district this old royal complex is built away from the other urban areas. Built around a large rectangular pool, this area hold a large complex of ruins, where one may walk through the open air complex, where partially destroyed arches extent along into the distance and one may admire what once was. The pool was one to the sultans extensive aqueduct system used for his gardens and looks sublime with the backdrop of the Heri es-Souan in the distance.
This was once the Imperial City’s storage granaries and horse stables area and over 12 000 horses were held here. What you see today is only a fraction of that the complex would have been in its heyday.
Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail
The Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail is an important cultural artefact in the city… but it is not completely open to non-Muslims. Outsiders can walk around the other chambers but not approach the tomb. This really makes my blood boil and as such I will say nothing more.
Visit the Underground Habs Qara Prison and the Consulate
The most interesting attraction in Meknes, the Habs Quara Prison was once known as the Prison of the Christian Slaves. Built by Sultan Moulay Ismail and designed by one of his prisoner, a Portuguese man, in exchange for his freedom, the building has a sordid reputation.
Outside the complex you will find an old Consulate, probably used to ransom some higher ranked Christian slaves.
Known for its underground vaults, it was known as “the cellar” among the Arabic population. The only light that would filter into its underground arches was provided though small holes in the plaza above.
When you are ready to descend buy a ticket from the guard outside and make your way down. In my case the guard actually gave us a mini tour for fun!
When you make it down you will see why it is referred to as the cellar! Christian slaves may have built the complex but to what extent is debated. Under the French Protectorate, it was used to detain members of the Moroccan resistance. While doing so they actually sealed off much of the massive complex out of fear that guards would get lost. In fact it was likely connected to a massive underground network that was built under the imperial city.
Exploring Volubilis
Once of the most popular sights in Morocco, you will see many access this high profile location one a donkey’s back from the neighbouring hotels.
I took a cab into the city, so I had me drop me off at the parking lot and pick me up 2.5 hours later. Give yourself plenty of time to explore as there is a lot to see here. You will enter the park near the south end, though a ruined gate near the modern museum.
The modern concrete building houses many items but is limited in scope as many of Volubilis’ greatest treasures and artifacts have been pilfered to adorn the palaces of Meknes or have been transported to the museum of Archeology in Rabat. It is worth a quick look however if you have the time.
As you walk thought the ruins, you will notice that little remains of Punic city. What you see here today are most likely of Roman or Byzantine ancestry and much of the site still excavated. In fact only half of the site has been excavated.
The 42 hectares (100 acres) town can be divided in roughly two haves, the new town laid out laid out around the Decumanus Maximus, an arcaded primary street where the romans built their villas and grand homes and the old town that predated the romans. This primary street terminated at the Arch of Caracalla where the old town would present itself. Other arteries such as the parralelle Decumanus Secundus were also constructed in this case even housing the aqueduct into the city. A large wall once surounded the settlement. Its traces are still visible.
The first major attraction in town is the House of Orpheus, a massive complex known for its beautiful mosaics.
The main mosaic of course is one depicting Orpheus taming the animals with his music, hence the name of the complex.
This area would have once housed a connection to the aqueduct. This is due to the fact that this was part of a bath complex and the level of engineering and design needed to make this work can still be observed in the excavated areas below the original floor level, where you can still see many chanels and piping systems. One of these buildings was the Baths of Gallienus, a 3rd century structure and once of three bathhouses in the city. They were once the most lavish buildings in the city.
In fact under a doorway you will even see a floor drain!
There are many mosaics to see as part of the complex so take your time. Among the most beautiful is one of fish.
You can also find a recreated olive oil press! Volubolis was once (and still is) a major olive and olive oil producing area and one of the best in the world.
Next up are two of the most distictu stuctures on site the Capitoline Temple and the Basilica. The basilica for its part was designed during the reign of Macrinus in the 3rd century and is one of the finest Roman basilicas in Africa. Little of it ws left standing until the french began their reconstructions in the 20th century.
The capitoline, originally designed as an arcaded couryard, wsa an important public place. An altar once stood atop the 13 steps at the center of the place and it is speculated that civic assemblies were once held here.
Like much of the archiology on site, the Arch of Caracalla was rebuilt by the french during the 20th century, much like the rest of the complex. Built during the roman ocupation sometime in the 5th or 6th century it celebrates the Augustus Caracalla and his “greatest victor in Parthia, greatest victor in Britain, greatest victor in Germany, …” statuses.
Keep an eye out for more mosaics along the way. This is a dense part of the city and there are a lot of things to see. Among my favirites is the aptly named house of the bathing nymphs and the house of venus.
Also be sure to check out the North baths, once the largest in the city and possibly built in the time of Hadrian.
A walk along the Decumanus Maximus will reveal the old arcades and vila’s that once were. Once again you will find mosaics and ruins but they taper off as you approach the city gtes.
From the elevated vantage points at the center of the city you will be privy to a majestic view of the city. The tumulus stands between the new and old city and its use is unknown.
From the top of the clump you will get a good view of the Decumanus Maximus roadway, heading north-east towards the outer edges of the city. Much of the roads colonnade can still be seen.
Another is the previously mentioned Triumphal Arch of Caracalla. This view is specifically stunning due to its backdrop of the rich morocco plain’s farmland.
Lastly you will be offered a sublime view of the basilica and Capitoline Temple, with the backdrop of the mountains.
Exploring Moulay Idriss
This mountaintop city appears to the traveler as a green gem along the rugged Moroccan landscape. This highly holy city is open to non-Muslims since 1912 and as 2005 foreigners can stay overnight – still they are not allowed to visit the tomb of Idris I. An improvement surely but there is plenty to do outside of visiting the tomb. This busy mountain market town is pulsing with life.
In fact, for those that have visited nearby Volubilis the people here are in many ways the decedents of those that migrated away from Volubilis. Idris I had at first made Volubilis his home. A decendent of the prophet Mohamed he had to flee Abbasid lands for his defeat of pro Shia rebels. From Volubilis he allied with the local Berber tribes in 789 and extended control over the region. But Volubilis’ location in an open plain made it vulnerable to attack. The decision was made to move a few kilometers away up the mountain.
Although it may seem like an obvious pilgrimage site, it was not always so. The Almoravids were hostile to the cult of saint, and their strict practice of Islam dimmed the city while Fez gained in ascendency. It would regain its pilgrimage power during the Marinid period, from the 14th century onward, when Idris I’s remains were rediscovered in 1318, at Moulay Idris Zerhoun attracting attention from the Marinid authorities. It is during this time that the annual moussem religious festival began. Starting in August, it celebrates Moulay Idris I as a saint.
The city’s pilgrimage only gained in stature under the Saadians and and the Alaouites as they also claimed descent from the Prophet Muhammad.
NOTE: It is said that five visits to the shrine of Idris I is equal to a visit to Mecca, this is the status of this city as a place of pilgrimage.
Apart from exploring the atmosphere of the town, day tripping to Volubilis and visiting the tomb of Idriss, one should just enjoy the atmosphere of the town.
From the city’s heights you will get a fantastic view of the city. I recommend checking out the Grande Terrace or a similar location for a birds eyed view of the city. Similarly, the deep green gorge where the Oued Lkhammane stream runs contains pretty views of the city as well as the Haroune Aqueduct, a beautiful stone structure that still provides water to the city.
ADD CITY VIEW
Although I don’t recommend it. Some even walk all the way to Volubilis. In fact it is so close you can see it from some city vantage points.
Conclusion
This region of Morocco may have lost some of its gleam, but it a worthwhile destination with much to offer the eager traveler. From imperial palaces and dank dungeons to the glory of the ruins of Volubilis or the holy serenity of Moulay Idriss, the Meknes region has a lot to offer. As tacky as it sounds, Meknes and its famed olives are the perfect eat, pray, love destination… ok maybe not the latter one!
